Yes, would work very same way. So, presumably if your bike is in gear, clutch in, push start button and the bike is rolling forward lurching with the spin of starter motor, yes? Give it two days clutch tied in, then start in neutral, idling in neutral pull clutch in (if it isn't already) and put it into first gear. Prepare for it to lurch~or rather jump forward on you. Try this a few times~ if it doesn't break free, let sit one more night clutch pulled in and try again. Cheers

Also, in gear or not the moment you electric start spin the engine, the clutch gets an oil bath all the way around.

@@shopyoga Thank you so much. I have the clutch lever held down with a zip tie. I also ran the engine in neutral to warm up the oil and then left it leaned over to the right a bit to bring up the oil level on that side and drown the clutch plates in the hot oil… Is this a good idea? I’ll let it sit like this for a day or two, and then try starting it in neutral and then putting it into first gear as you advised.

@nataliamiliano150 yes that's smart! All of what you did puts you at the best advantage.

Hi, yessir same process would apply. Every multi plate oil bathed clutch on the planet I believe would. Best luck with it🙏🧘!

Thanks for your feedback 🧘‍♂️🧘‍♂️🧘‍♂️🙂!

Best kind of luck to you 🧘‍♂️🧘‍♂️🧘‍♂️!

Hi sorry for delayed reply.. that tool is actually homemade. Something similar could be made from a deep socket and a hacksaw pretty quick methinks 🧘‍♂️

No difference which gear, neutral is fine too. Important to roll engine over at least once (don't even have to start it) just to get oil on every portion of clutch. Then, with the lever pulled in plates are relaxed and oil can work its way back into the fiber of the fiber plates. I usually go out and spin the engine couple times a day if that's an option just to keep the oil available to top of clutch pack.

Hi @subramanip8434, I agree that is a weird problem! Actually never experienced that or knew anyone who had. I love a challenge though. Sadly I don't have a solid answer but my thoughts are that the basket may not be seated fully in place. Although, usually if not the casing will give trouble going on flush. I have seen clutches put together 'not quite right' cause wonky issues such as too much cable slack can't even disengage transmission, lever won't operate the clutch at all, or that the clutch was engaged full time - meaning switching into any gear the bike would not move at all. That said, I'd give it a thorough inspection looking for any oddity. Scuffing on the inner casing? With the case off, operate clutch, look at the movement going on. Looking for anything loose, bent, shiny, shavings, etc. Find nothing, proceed to take apart. A thorough inspection I'm sure will sort it. If you can, determine as you ride is this in fact being caused by centrifugal forces. Also is it original parts by the manufacturer or aftermarket? Normally no issues with OEM parts but occasionally aftermarket may have a blemish in fit or thickness. Also, if you still have your old plates, count them...and check on Ronnie's parts fisch online to compare numbers. One extra old steel plate left in there can cause very odd clutch action. If you go through it again and have no joy, get back to me with more info, year make, model and anything else you can add and I'll continue to help troubleshoot. Cheers, happy new year and best wishes with it.

@@shopyoga Thanks a lot for your swift reply. The carbon plates are from OEM, but the metal plates , basket, and pressure plate are from an aftermarket manufacturer. I also suspect this might be the issue but not 100% sure as the clutch is working completely normal till around 60 to 65 kmph. May be in the coming weekend i shall disassemble and will inspect. Btw , is there any specific order(1 to 4) in fitting the clutch plates and metal plates or any condition on which side should be facing inside and which should be facing outside?

@@subramanip8434 some have a different inner and outer friction plate and all the center frictions are same. Usually noticable with a paint mark on them, possibly even scribed. The position flipped either side in or out should never matter with all friction plates. Steels shouldn't matter which side face in or out... but if there's a smooth almost rounded off edge to those steel plates, try putting all steels round edge face in. According to any MX threads I've read, that is the recommended application.

​@@shopyogaI found the root cause. It's actually due to the loose pressure plate bolt. After i tighten the bolt, the clutch is working flawlessly.

Yes.

@@shopyoga is the clutch lever supposed to feel soft when the clutch plates are stuck together or is that just air in the line

@@GRPPLRJORDAN sounds like you need to bleed the slave cylinder. My 1400 Suzuki intruder does similar thing if it sits a while (6-8 months) clutch lever gets soft I have to bleed it to get proper clutch action back. Check fluid level might be low and it let air in. Squeeze the lever multiple times. If it gradually builds pressure, needs bled. If bleeding does not solve, a close inspection of the line. Lines age and break down internal, swell and clutch won't disengage.

@@shopyoga I appreciate the answer. I already rebuilt the slave and master cylinder and have been bleeding the line to no avail. I have inspected the line but I don’t see any problems with it but im Jo master mechanic so I don’t know exactly what im looking for. Maybe I just need a new line.

My apologies, somehow I missed this comment altogether 😞. Hope you are doing well since the accident. Probably you have sorted the problem? Is your clutch hydraulic?

Hi! Yes, clamp in your clutch lever for at least 24 hours, sometimes it may take a few days to a week to break it free. First, neutral, second, gear selection won't matter during this time. I like to turn the engine over a few times every day to get the oil all around the clutch plates. The stuck clutch is normally just the natural state of the clutch (plates squeezed tight) has squeezed oil out of the fiber plates so they lose all viscosity. Squeezed and held clutch removes tension from plates allowing oil to seep into the fibers again. Then, a little jolt from kick starter or running bike switching from neutral to first should break them free. Hope this helps 🙏

😆 indeed I have! It's just spare parts, handy as props.

It worked! Well… I also put it in 5th gear and rolled it backwards a little to force them loose a little.. so one of the two things worked.

Superb!

Hi harrygrimley, I've roughed up dirt bike brake shoes to increase performance. Usually do it on my vintage bikes just before race day, use an 80 or 100 grit sandpaper. Clutch is bathed in oil though so any that I get in my shop with slipping trouble, first thing I suspect is springs. A service manual should give you specs on spring length. Tensile strength of each spring is hard to measure. Manual also for friction and steel plate thickness. If plates are worn bad usually that shows up in the cable - cable will seem stretched... and even if you put new one it would be adjusted oddly out more than it should as the clutch pack is not filling intended space. I'm certainly no clutch expert, never tried roughing friction plates either. My thoughts on that... probably would help for a short period. High gloss on friction plates I would think means they slipped a good bit and the intense friction caused overheating, baked them to a gloss. If anything, I'd lay a sheet of 1000... maybe 800 grit on a pane of glass and give plates a quick scuff. My focus is still on the springs though. Also, some makes, models specify only conventional oil, mineral oil, transmission fluid, etc. More to the point, if the transmission fluid spec doesn't call for synthetic oil, putting that in definitely can give you slip. Best regards 🧘‍♂️

Yes, should have the same effect.

@@shopyoga it worked like a charm and I am a happy camper! thanks a million 🥳 🎊

Wonderful!!!!! Glad to hear this!

Thank you so much for watching and your comment. I would actually recommend if you can to wait a day or two before you plan to use your scorpa and do the lever then. I've discovered that long term takes the tensile strength from the springs and clutch starts slipping 😑. Cheers

Those are some wicked strong springs!

Hi Daniel, wish you the best with it! I love hearing about those classic Honda being rescued. Curious about how much clutch action you feel on the lever. Sometimes the cable after sitting a while will stretch like mad in the first couple hours put back to use. You probably know already that engine off and not touching the clutch at all, rocking the bike forward and backward should allow to shift through all gears relatively smoothly. If there's considerable resistance doing that, I would continue to do in hope gears start shifting smoother. It may be a case of some buildup of crud around the shift drum and manual shifting a bunch frees up the works. Also, how does the shift lever look too? If it's slipping on the spline, that will make catching gears near impossible 🧘‍♂️. Just a couple little things to hopefully help 🙏 Cheers

Hi Jeffrey, wonderful fun bike the 250 Rebel! Yes, plates stuck as often as your experiencing, for the minimal extra cost I'd just switch out to Honda brand oil -H4 I think they call it- as a process of elimination. If you can, run the engine up to operating temperature before drain and have a close look at that oil. Hoping it's not milky but if so you got water/condensation and possibly the exposed steel plates developed some rust. Fresh Honda oil and a ride probably will sort it 🙏

Yes, I believe so. Only way it wouldn't is if the hydraulic is leaking, bleeding off anywhere.

What kind of bike? Hydraulic or cable clutch?