@@theodoremclean300 go to work.

@@stevedugle5238 both cables run back to the battery. The ground (negative) directly to battery. The positive goes through my breaker switch and has a battery switch at back of boat.

@@jenniferfleming9610 go to marine engine .com. Type in your model info. It’ll give you a part number then you can find on eBay or Amazon. After market is always cheaper.

@ thank you. I have ordered 2 from Amazon that aren’t a direct fit. The gear is too small.

@@jenniferfleming9610 yep. Need to find the part number based on your year and model engine. Then search by exact part number.

2015*

Pain in the ass honestly

@@Dontmindme41 thanks! Shoot me a follow.

@@michaelgrifoni2160 not sure but if you measure what you drain out it doesn’t matter. You’ll know what you’ll need to refill amount wise.

@@wheredidileaveit shifter cable or link needs adjusted so there is still a neutral.

@@762jay-yote yeah wanted to be able to cut power while seated at helm. I have a battery switch in bsck

@@wellsbruce4370 you mean the fuses??

@@lwilde0422 so I can cut power to the breaker box easily. Also if a short in main gauges it prevents blowing the entire box. The ones on battery are tinned. Itll take decades for those copper lugs to go bad and the wire is tinned. Not worried about it.

Always a double lol

@@kevincampbell5357 spitting is perfectly normal. It made me uncomfortable. I actually hated this so I created a diversion from one of the flow hoses and downsized it to a 1/32nd inch pee hole so I could be confident my pump was cooling. I’ll post a picture when I get home.

@@kevincampbell5357 look at video. The right sided coolant tube, I put a right angle T then continued to downsize the tubing by fittings until it made a pee hole. I didn’t trust just spitting out exhaust hole I figured I’d not know when pump failed or failing until too late.

Ok I see it now lol nicely done​@@TheDIYDoc

Hmmm no not that I know of?

@@bigk9601 doesn’t matter.

@@bigk9601 it’s just a flow through switch. Long as little wires are correct. The positive big wires don’t matter.

@@bigk9601 it’s its arc-ing you need to tighten the nuts and leads and make sure they’re not arcing to the actual motor

@@captainmo3064 I could have but chose not to. I just use the breaker switch as a cut off to anything on dash if needed because it’s right by controls. I have two posterior elements wired and separately fused at back of boat too.

@@jjdaniels07 check main fuse. There’s a main fuse. If hear nothing, not even a click, it could be blown. Or your solenoid is bad. Or ignition is bad. Can check solenoid by using a push button starter across the solenoid.

@ thanks, I checked the 20 amp fuse and it’s good. Did the manufacturers recommended solenoid test and it tested good. Older motor so I’m gonna change out the solenoid and the starter.

@ I have videos for both. Give them a like if they help. But it’s prob just the solenoid. My starter lasted from 1976 till last year.

@ good deal thanks.

@@ronniekepler6731 it should have a main fuse??

@@TheDIYDoc it’s a 1988 Johnson 25hp electric start I hooked up new solenoid and new start button still won’t fire or even click I checked the neutral safety switch and everything looked fine idk what else it could be

@@ronniekepler6731 use a starter button. Aka connects your solenoid low voltage wires. It’s way to check starter. If it turns. Then there’s an issue electrically.

@@ronniekepler6731 most motors have a main fuse and if it’s blown you’ll get nothing.

@ unsure look it up on a parts page by year and hp. You’ll find if

@@Prakash-tt5qe unlikely linked to gear system. I’d be checking throttle cable system.

@@jbreshLSU no socket. Vise grips on the splines. Box wrench on the pinion gear nut. Or could use a socket on pinion gear nut.

@ Crap, you weren’t concerned about messing up the teeth on the spline?

@ my vise grips teeth fit perfectly into the splines.

@@martins1901 there’s some companies that will make the windshield custom as needed. I’m using a company in California.

@@AlexanderSolis-h7d this is on a 2012 2.0 but realistically probably not much different.

@@Jason.F. no. Why would I do that? There’s no load between battery and breaker.

@TheDIYDoc there is a load as soon as you turn anything on that is connected to the fuse block. Power coming from the battery to the fuse block and out to the equipment. You can put that breaker anywhere in the circuit before the fuse block that's for sure. But anything before that breaker isn't being protected. So if that section of wire before the breaker shorts out you have no way of stopping it unless you unhook from the battery. Your home is a example of my point. You power comes in and goes straight to a breaker panel. Then every wire is assigned to a breaker and that breaker is sized by the gauge of the wire. But those breakes are always first, that way every inch of wire is protected by the breaker. I'm not trying to be a hater, my first question was genuine.

@ yes but again that wire goes straight from battery to breaker. It’s highly unlikely that section of wire shorts out. I see what you’re saying. But it doesn’t seem high yield to fuse that section of wire. The only thing unprotected is the wire itself.

@@TheDIYDoc got another question. Did you use a 100 amp breaker because the fuse block is 100 amp?

The breaker is in the right position, however that should lead back to a battery switch. Also I do see what appear to be copper on the black wires. That will not last in saltwater and will begin to black shortly. Also you can use liquid electric tape to seal those as well.

@@lando8981 it’s just a way for them to trap you. Make your own lol

@@cheesypizzasauce kind of the point lol.

@@creamcheeseboys2 the best.

@@pinkleWeenkies always

@@GTboosted they are tinned cables. One is a tinned terminal but honestly this area isn’t exposed to water or elements the boat is dry storage. And any connections for bilge and motor are heat shrink splicing but for ring connectors it makes no difference. But hey thanks for stoping by and offering your 1.5 sense.

@@TheDIYDoc ok maybe I exaggerated by saying fail. It should still last a long time if strictly fresh water. If it were me all terminations would be tinned and shrinked since I fish in the ocean too. Unless its in a sealed compartment I would expect it to get wet occasionally.

@ I fish in salt and fresh. But it’s tucked up under dash and windshield. Even hosing boat I don’t really get it wet. You can see the main wires have shrink on em. The terminals coming into board for negative and positive don’t really need shrinks.

@@fllights76 shifter Rod tends to differ between brands but they all use the same idea of a dog gear.

@@volunteermaupi4809 shoot me a like and a follow.

@@samanthadeer9622 hmmm then go old school switch your coils and see if code changes. Not all are made same

@@MHZaidi85 it is?

Liked and subbed btw.

@@risingforce9291 inboard boats have reverse? Same mechanism

@@auntcera the start? What is that? And no. I’m right.

@@josechicas5930 no? For what?

@@ramone.1021 200.

As you are looking at 6k+ Ohms then you have to select the the nearest available range, so you might have 200, 2k, 20k, 200k etc, therefore you would need the 20k as 2k won't read when testing. If you only have 200k as your next option that is what you select, but knowing what ohms your looking for will then determine where your Decimel place will be.

@@brandoncoleman5572 dunno that years mechanism sorry man.

@@sibelius1980 huh?

@@ruthespinal9983 yep same I was frustrated. Glad I could help. Give it a like and me a follow