@@coreyfranco7060 that’s the service from the transformer which was buried in the ground from the 70s

​@@everythingresidentiali thought the video it was 1/0 being replaced with 4/0?

@@coreyfranco7060 there was an existing 1/0 from the panel that is spliced into the 4/0 that is coming from the transformer. They upgraded the 1/0 to a 4/0 at the mobar connection.

@@ArisandyJohnson not sure, it’s been years.

@@TheGoodLydia email me if you have any more questions! check out our website for premade casita plans that we can build for you. Also we are building a 1700 sqft addition on McClintock and Guadalupe so make sure you check out that KZbin video on our channel!

@@timbraden8594 I like this

@@elnicadrums exactly!

@@bluecruiser3790 we haven’t completed the project so we don’t know the final cost as we are building in stages but for a project like this you can expect to pay between 190-300 per foot. On top of that the home owner had to purchase civil engineering and build out a water retention basin.

@@everythingresidential ah ok,I see. Looking forward to following this build. What would make the difference in $190 to $300 price per sqft? Number of bathrooms vs bedrooms? 2nd story?

@ 2nd story for sure but construction is construction, meaning most of the cost goes into large mechanical upgrades or finishes.

@@Steve-sz7yz let me tell you my dilema, it’s a post tension slab so we don’t want to break open the slab for the home owners budget, but the home owner wants to add a sink past the laundry drain. Is the answer no to the home owner based on code?

@@everythingresidential there's always some way. Budget is usually the hold up. I would have to see the whole layout to give u a better idea.

Bro

@@gainesandrews1030 so what if you branch off the vent from 4’ above the dirty arm and keep venting it? How far can you go? How many 90s can you have?

​honestly I've never seen anybody just 90 straight into another 90 in a wall like that, usually it's 45°s so you can run an auger if it ever gets stopped up.. and I'm assuming that's 2" so.. as long as you're within 8' of the last vent, it shouldn't need another vent

@@frostyfroze7352 of course! Already went through 3 licensed plumbers that have said 3 different rules. Might as well throw it out to the public

@ yea I hear ya, unfortunately only thing left to do is try to decipher the code book and hopefully the inspector can agree with your findings

@@patrice8925 how many fixtures can you have on a dirty arm?

@@Amer1can1nfidel slump? I thought that it only pertained to concrete

Inspector said the 1 1/2” pipe that is the dirty arm can go up-to 6’ from the vent and can go a little further with an air admittance valve. The problem is the amount of 90s and no clean outs.

​@@everythingresidentiali was just about to say that. The 90s are the issue.

@@JewKnowMe shingles require a 2:12 pitch to use. If there was a chimney there, we would build a cricket and flash it accordingly no matter what roofing we use.

Thanks for the response! Would the framing be the same except there would be a small cricket behind the chimney or would you do different framing for the side section (the one with the 2x4s)? I have the exact same roof and matched the same slope for my patio cover as you. Been following it to a T. But didn’t account for the chimney.

@ cricket behind it, which it probably already has, and yes a small cricket to the side if you think it’s necessary. Probably depends if the chimney is inside the house or on the outside of the house.

@@everythingresidential my chimney is on the inside right at the edge. It is right where the two different slopes connect which I believe is a valley? No cricket behind. Which is surprising. It’s a tricky spot. That’s the last obstacle. Other than your video REALLY helped. I couldn’t find any other video this clear, straight to the point, and matched my roof style.

I don’t think it will need a cricket on the sides because the roof rafters will already be sloped. But make sure a roof rafter or blocking is against both sides. If it’s a brick or block chimney, Definitely grinds a line into the block so the Z bar flashing can be installed correctly, and really goop it up with roof sealant.