@@matthewHizzle Well, it’s not mine, belongs to a friend. It’s not the best performer, but it has yet to blow up.

@@johnwhitacre7063 Fantastic!!!

@@ColleenM-f9b So glad the video helped! As to the Cross erasers, I always found them to not work very well so I don’t ever use them. Likely any new old stock erasers would be pretty hardened with the passage of time, to the point of not being useful, as you mention. I have no idea where to source erasers. If you find out, please share that info here so it can help other folks. Thanks!!

CGS Mod9-SK. Also using with a (not pictured) Obsidian 45. Works great! Big fan of the EZ-Lok.

Not sure- but would speculate they are good to go since they make cans and have a vested interest in ensuring proper alignment.

And the cans they make are well made and competitive performers in the marketplace. So they know how to make good stuff.

I got nothing for that one. Perhaps stick needle in there and dig and see if any debris falls out? Might have to send it to Cross. If they can’t fix it then I would look at buying a used good condition one on eBay.

@@PhotoTrainer That’s exactly the reason I posted this. So all of us can put these heirlooms to use and honor the memory of those who came before us. THANKS for letting me know your story. Additionally, I have found that there are 0.7 and also 0.9 models of Cross pencils out there, so it helps to ensure which model it is. Pro tip - I think the reason the lead gets jammed into the pencils so often and so badly is that people will store them vertically (in a coffee cup or similar with other writing instruments) but neglect to retract the lead. If the lead is protruding from the tip, and you set the pencil tip down, you can jam the lead in there. So always retract the lead when you are done using the pencil. Glad to help!

Thanks! I’m glad the info helped you. People either like or hate this holster, but they need to at least use it before rendering an opinion about it. Please see my update on it regarding the Axon sensors (not a vid but merely a reply). As to leg straps, I like to run the leg strap between the UBL and the holster body, as opposed to using the drop leg shroud (forget the term for it). I just use the Safariland wide and stretchy straps, but I know people who use the T-Rex or similar straps since they are less bulky. I’m pretty busy and don’t put out many videos, just occasionally regarding stuff I think people could benefit from and not to become an influencer. Stay safe!

@@forcesolutions4154 brother I’m like you , I do it because I love the 2A community and try to touch on the duty side to help guys out ! I really appreciate it your reviews ! And I agree 💯 you have to try it before knocking it , I got turn to it because one of my guys at my department was using it and I really liked it !

@@Lisa-w8d That’s awesome! Glad to hear it!!!

@@luisandrewmiranda4207 Gonna check one out, just haven’t as of yet. I have heard good things about it.

@@oneijack98 The .005 makes a difference. Esp on a longer can. Go ahead and do what you want. Plenty of folks on FB NFA groups have posted and shown pictures of how they get baffle strikes after they thought they were good because their McMaster rod was “good enough”. Use the correct tool for the job. The Griffin rods are pretty inexpensive and you can even wait for one of their sales to make them even cheaper.

It’s different. People either like it or really hate it. Hopefully, you have the ability choose.

No. Would think that it should be suitable for the task, though.

Follow Monkey Edge. He gets them in from time to time.

Of course, by holding the lower section of the pencil stationary, with the point facing away from you, and then twisting the upper half of the pencil counterclockwise l, that rod should retract, and clockwise, extend. Maybe remove the upper part of the pencil to expose the inner section and then turn that inner section. See if it turns freely. gently turn it in each direct until it stops. If the rod is still not retreating, that's probably a mechanism failure and you would need to contact Cross.

You want to use a set of calipers to measure the diameter of that to 0.001” and let us know what that is? At different places along the length of it. And how straight is it? Plenty of people using McMaster rods have had strikes because they are not the correct diameter and not straight enough. But you do you, maybe you’ll never have a problem.

7/32nds is theoretically 0.21875”. Doesn’t mean your drill is made to that spec. And use a good set of calibers to measure it. I’m using a Starrett, not something from Harbor Freight.

@@forcesolutions4154 damn you got butt hurt and went on a rant 😂

@@fbswampfox use the right tools for the job, or don’t

@@forcesolutions4154 drill rod is cylindrical ground my man.

For a Glock or similar no, the barrel cannot be removed from the slide with this installed. It’s easy to remove it, though, should you need to. For a 1911/2011, yes, since the barrel comes out the front of the slide.

Awesome! Glad I could help. It’s a great feeling to be able to use these heirlooms again!!

Don't know of any.

I can relate to how you were feeling. It does justice to your mom, dad, grandma, grandpa, whoever was important to you, to give new life to this piece of art disguised as a writing instrument so it can be used again, when it seemed like that wasn’t a possibility. I’m glad I could help!

You have to do a little trial and error. That tip is smooth so it’s slippery, You have to find what works to get enough grip on it. Take a set of pliers, apply a couple layers of duct tape to the jaws. Then get a thick rubber band and wrap that around the tip. Use the pliers carefully to try to loosen the tip. If it won’t come loose easily enough, heat the tip up again, and let it set for a bit.

I found a source for replacement tips and added to the video description. Please take a look

Awesome! Glad this helped you!!

YMMV. Initially I thought the same. Used it for a week and changed my mind on that.

None at all. Give it a fair shake (not just 1 shift) and see how it works for you. 6360 is still a good holster., though. What was frustrating me was the reholstering with the WML catching on the holster but once I figured that out (insert at an angle then rock it in), no problem.

No, just disassembled it to the extent shown in the video. Good luck!

Exactly. Let it ride in the last valley *that you don't have to force it into*, not the last possible valley that you got it there because you forced it there. There should be a little bit of rotational play. To quote John Hollister "it's a retention system not a tensioning system".

Object like fingers, keys, etc. getting into the large gaps in WML capable duty holsters and causing discharges with holstered striker fired guns has been a problem since these types of holsters came out many years ago. Totally predates the introduction of the P320.

@@forcesolutions4154 what other gun has gone off in a safariland I'm positive that the sig wasn't even in the holster when whent of maybe sig should put a safty on the trigger. But that was quik of safariland to come out with a options for less iq people that use holsters lol 😆 😂 🤣

@@charles17508 This holster was first publicized at Shot Shot 2023. That’s Jan, 2023. It obviously had been in development for a least a year prior to that, probably more. This predates the Sig issues of which you refer to. One of the problems they are addressing is the ability for a suspect to get their finger into the gap between their legacy WML compatible duty holsters and fire the holstered gun during a struggle over a holstered gun. Which has happened and does happen and can happen. If this is not important to you, then no problem, you are not the target market for this holster. Some other things I think they were trying to address include to make a holster with injection molding and not heating/bending/shaping kydex (like the 6xxx series holsters, which came out in 1996). IM can be much more efficient to manufacture, if you have an economy of scale that pays for the molds. They tried this with the 7 series holsters, but they lack rigidity, which has been a problem esp with the smaller WMLs, and resulted in retention failures in the real world, which caused them to engineer a retrofit to add some rigidity and for which they issued a service bulletin. This new holster is very rigid.

@@charles17508sigs go off when jarred too hard. Being in a holster doesn’t help. An officer had his sig kicked while it was in the holster and it went off.

Sig needs to take more accountability and stop blaming holsters.

Don't think that there enough room for a gas pedal to fit.

for a sig p320 with a gas pedal. its a tight fit, nothing shaving plastic down cant fix.

Good point. I suppose that they have done the math and figured that if they encourage people to disassemble these things they might have more problems that they have to take care of? Regardless, for people who are willing to fix things themselves, it would be great if we could just buy the parts to fix them ourselves. All the best to you.

It’s worth it to use proper tools and gauges. Do you use a torque wrench when installing things? Or do you just guess? Do you use red loctite, or Rocksett? Silencer Forums have lots of people have used the McMaster rods and regretted it when they had a baffle or endcap strike. It would have been worth it for them to spend the extra money instead of having to deal the effects of that. It sure sucks to blow up your can. Some cans, if you damage them, depending on where the SN is, and depending on what kind of damage, can’t be repaired, they have to be replaced, which is another $200, the price of the can, and a yearlong wait. But let’s say it’s something that can be repaired. Great. But you are still inconvenienced for awhile by not having it. Maybe you were planning on using it for that hunting trip and now you can’t. Furthermore, when get a strike, where did the projectile(s) go? That can be a huge safety problem. Regardless, user error is not the manufacturer’s problem. If you put diesel in your Corvette, not Chevy’s problem. If you fire a 300 blk in your 5.55 rifle, not the manufacturer’s problem. You are an adult, you do you. If you do choose to buy a proper bore alignment gauge, Geissele has sales quite often. And while I’ve not personally used them, the Griffen Armament ones are quite affordable and I’ve never heard a negative word about them. Good luck to you, amigo!

Nice! By all accounts, this is an excellent option and ECCO does outstanding work. I may do so myself.

@@forcesolutions4154 AAC now will upgrade your older cans to their newer Ranger can for a fee.

Thanks for the kind words! Good luck to you.