Where are the other videos and the restored car?????

Angle grider and a dozen flap disks 😂.

Top job. Very well done.

I like the way you don't assume a bunch of previous knowledge, so a total amateur can understand from the beginning. But I see it's been 7 months since you uploaded any videos. Don't leave us hanging! (And my MGB makes your MGB-GT look pristine. Thirty five years sitting out in the Arkansas woods did NOT do it any good.)

Don’t forget to lubricate the moving part of the contacts. (Cam/heel and pivots) Great to see the next generation doing this work. I can remember doing this same thing back in the 1950s and have enjoyed it ever since. You have started something you will get great enjoyment from. Keep it up.

I just picked up 3 of these today .. they’ve been lying for years but I’m hoping to make one good one out of the three, or maybe even 2! Good luck with your projects .. I will keep watching your video’s for tips!

I’m jealous! Haven’t started my MGB GT project yet. It’s in my garage. I’ll learn from your mistakes. Totally forgot about the brake line. Keep the videos coming!

Blair's Workshop: Don't know if you're saving up cash for replacement sheet metal; if so for replacement of sills ( if floor still has static structure left in it) it's much easier to replace the sill structures with A post ( door support structure) removed. You will likely find more rot once door A- post removed but replacing sill pieces and other rot around A- post will be a breeze.Remember,make sure bottom of new replacement sills have more than adequate drainage holes so moisture/water can drop and evaporate out. Do use acetone/ good cleaner for bare sheet metal prior to primer,paint,anti corrosion: wax,film,etc. or whatever you choose for the hollow members in the shell. I have a nearly 40 year old Peugeot 505 Wagon,when it was built and shipped here to the USA, workers in Sochaux, France injected a top battery post anti-corrosion like goo in hollow sections including rear rockers and boxed member below floor where tailgate closes. I've planning on a MGB project myself with toasted sills, bracing door openings and removing doors first before A- post structure and lowersill members including castle rails. Tip,make locating marks ( with sheet metal screws) prior to removing door A - post structure; that way if you're able to reuse them after replacing sill members, door support structure will go right back where it needs to be,no head scratching! .

I've just found your channel young man and looking forward to the resto, good luck 🍻cheers..

Hi Blair for your age your very informative I’ve been working on cars for a long long time keep up the good work 👍

Amazing set of videos. I have just bought a Lister at action for £30 and have started to strip it down. Your videos will help trenendously. Great work and you should be very proud. Well done

We miss you Blair plz upload again

Very nice job you have done on the lister d it looks really nice and runs well to

I spent 4 days trying to replace the rear springs. I needed to replace the shock absobers too as they were past it. All went well apart from the front spring mount. The metal bushing had seized onto the bolt. No amount of bashing with a hammer would move it. I ended up melting out the perished rubber bushing and using an angle grinder to cut it. Then moved to the shock mounts and they had to be drilled out which was a nightmare too!

I am building a replica of a 1928 Morgan Aero RIP GN(MGB) Special with four wheels. I found an opposed twin experimental aircraft engine that I am going to mate to the mGB transmission with a hand cast two part adapter from aluminum. From the transmission it will be going to an MGB rear with those beautiful wire rims. That way I will have a reverse gear and brakes which the original did not I believe. The frame is wood over steel and then aircraft cloth over the wood. this is my inspiration. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWq0fpRtdrp3Y5Y

Blair, a new subscriber here. I have an MGB transmission that will not shift. It was removed from a chrome bumper and I bought it from the guy's son. I am planning on using it in a Morgan that I am building on my new channel but I have not. started it yet. Hopefully I can get some brilliant ideas from you.

Hope you have as much fun with your MG as I have had with the 4 I have owned. (3 midgets and a B)

Excellent film. Well edited. Clear and precise info. Well done.

Well done, that is a big project to do! Please keep safe when working under the car, and ensure the axle stands cannot slip.

Personally, I highly recommend chemical dipping this will remove everything from the body shell then you can see fully what needs to be done. Also the box sections will be clear of any rust.

Great video from California USA!

Very informative. I hope I never have to do this job, but I did enjoy learning from you doing it. Looking forward to more videos. Maybe count how many sentences you start with "so."

The orange looks like iron deposits that you often get from underground water supply’s these little pumps were used for getting water from shallow wells and streams thanks for the video

Thanks for the detailed view and explanation. I have a dumb question: I want to extend the wheelbase by moving the front crossmember forward about 12cm. I realize that the front frame becomes wider in the front and the upper control arm tower might not clear the frame. How much forward do you think I can move the crossmember, please?

I think that 'rust' is probably just lime accretion from the water. It appears to be a layer on top of the casting rather than rust eating into the metal.

All looks good. Just be very aware that if your jacks fail that car chassis will crush you if your under it. (Including your arm). I think id find some logs or heavy bits of wood and just place them under the car as an insurance against collapse. Its possible it can all collapse sideways so be aware of that as well. Only takes one jack to loose its footing and it could affect all of them !! Your doing well. Im sure you know all this but it doesnt hurt being reminded from time to time.

Yours looks like 50/51.

I just bought a 1968 MGB GT

I'm going to follow your progress. Good luck from the Netherlands

❤ Thank You, collab with Sophie is needed

Can you reverse that magneto?

Keep up the great work

Very impressed by your video - great to see a young lad like yourself doing a bit of restoration ---- keep it up! - wonderful.

Good to see you get better working on engines along the way 👍 i think those two greasy cylinders do have an oil problem somewhere , the other two look alot better

welcome to BGT land Blair! I've had my 72 for 11 yrs and 120.000 km, most fun car ever. I hope yours can be a keeper mate, cheers from Miami Florida!

Will watch your progress with interest, have you had it running or driven it yet, you don’t want to find in the middle of the rebuild that there is a serious fault with the engine or gear box, thats where I started with my 1969 roadster, a bottle of petrol strapped under the bonnet and a 12v battery, there are lots of helpful videos out there, an MG is born videos are a good start, and all of mine, of course! That sorted, I started mine from the rear and worked my way forward, good luck and ask away, oh and practise mig welding with thin sheet, Steve.

Big up sleepy B

Thankyou now i know how to get rid of the white on the top cap.Keep up the good work.

In case you're still crowdsourcing advice, do remember to brace the door gaps before cutting the sills off. This will preserve the door gaps which is absolutely critical. As someone else has mentioned, the more you can remove from the car the easier it will be to get at all of the areas of rust and attachment points. Drop the fuel tank, remove the rear suspension and diff, remove the engine and gear box, remove the front cross member. I watched your first video and am full of admiration for your optimism on the state of the inner wings, especially after seeing the state of the inner wing strengheners. Mine had had mice living in them. Sills and inner wings almost always need attention. Inner wings can be patched but sills should be replaced and there is a seven piece kit for either side from Moss or Rimmer Brothers. Keep up the enthusiasm ...and the vids.

It looks very rotten, hope you didn't pay much for it? Problem is until you start removing the paint you really won't know how rotten it is, especially as it has been resprayed.... might be full of filler and poor patching? Just about to start a 72, starting with the mechanicals first, nothing worse than hundreds of hours on the bodywork to find the engine/gearbox are beyond economic repair? Get it running and you will forgive it being a rot box!

Well done. All a learning curve. Does the engine run? Is it siezed? Id get the engine out on a jig and get the engine sorted first. Keep at it. Well done.

Very nice, did you finished up the Lister, I missed that

I have never restored a car but i think its just fine to do the body restoration when the engine and gearbox are out . Without that weight you might even get the car in a better ( higher up ) position for working and welding on it .

Thanks great information 👍

Very well made gib key puller. ShopDogSam would be proud.

Great barn find!

junk that thing unless you have $40k standing by for rust repair.

I would seal the engine up maybe put the manifold back, disi and fill it full of oil, including the cylinders, wire brush the body and anti rust paint, By then you can really judge the welding needs always be wary of cutting to much away at once, weld the box section under the wings first then the worst sill first, mgb mechanicals are all pretty straight forward, working under the dash is the main bugbear. I have owned a 1969 roadster since 1984

Looking forward to seeing your progress!

Well Done on the video! I'm about to finish my first one, a 1967 GT (Im 20 and got it when I was 14) Something I quickly learned with this car is that when assembling some parts do need to be installed before others,it's truly like a jigsaw puzzle in my opinion, eg you can only install the front wings once the dashboard is installed and the starter motor before engine mounts can be finally installed. It's a tough project but looks good! 👌 Goodluck with your build :) A nice thing about an MG is there is an abundance of parts avaliable (Moss Europe, MG Hive etc) where almost everything is avaliable and I'm sure you can reach out to the MG owners club for any help, parts or advice 😀