Lister D Restoration - Update - Ep.5

Thank you so much for watching this video, I hope you enjoyed it. It would mean a lot to me if you could like and subscribe as it would help me grow my channel. 😁

[@martijnbaarn]

Hey , really proud you got this far with your lister ,well done so far . Looking forward to see the result . Also subbed .

[@nutgone100]

My advice would be cheap coils are cheap for a reason. I rebuild magnetos for a living & a good 40% of my work is putting stuff right that supposedly been rebuilt already by someone else (not always someone cheap either). I certainly wouldn’t be sending coils all the way to Ireland, people from Ireland send stuff to me. I’m on Facebook, look for Old Iron Engineers. Buy cheap, buy twice. BTW, try an engine cleaner, something like Jizer or the Car Plan one in a metal can (always the metal can, oil/solvent based, never the plastic can water based stuff), some cheap, throw away wire brushes & you’ll soon have that thing clean.

[@blairsworkshop]

Thanks for the advice, I think I’ll give the coil a shot and if it doesn’t work then I will definitely be going for a more expensive option. I had a problem finding places to re-wind coils as many of them had too many orders so that’s what made me go for this option. I will definitely invest in some engine cleaner now. I was going to probably get a grinder and a wire wheel to get the rust and old paint off, do you think this is the best option for me? Thanks.

[@nutgone100]

@@blairsworkshop just remember to change the condenser as well (I rebuild the old ones but you can just put a car one in there) & make sure the points are clean. If you change any magneto bearings you’ll have to re-set the end float (that’s what those brass shims are for). Those engine cleaners are water soluble oil, so you can rinse it off or wipe it. Be careful with powered wire brushes, they’re really great for cleaning stuff like this but they’re also dangerous. Thick leather gloves, eye protection & a visor. Protect your arms from flying debris (& flying wire brush bits as they do lose a few wires). Common sense really, but don’t wanna see anyone get hurt.

[@blairsworkshop]

@@nutgone100 Ah I keep on forgetting about the condenser, good to know that just replacing it will be easiest. I see lots of them for sell on eBay, will these be fine for it for would I be safer going for one from a specialist website. All the bearings on the engine seem good so thankfully won’t need to replace any of them 🤞. Thanks for the advice about power tools, I think it will make the job much easier but as you said I will need to get all the equipment to stay safe.

[@nutgone100]

@@blairsworkshop I would buy a condenser from a car parts store (online or in person) I’d be very wary of buying new old stock condensers as they deteriorate with age. Or drop me a message on my Facebook page, send a pic of your original condenser & I’ll give you a discount price on a rebuild for just the condenser. If it’s the type I think it is then I can take the internals out & put a modern capacitor inside, that will last longer than any condenser you can get from anywhere else & it will fit straight back on. I’m always happy to help people out, give my business a mention (if you’re happy obviously) & I’ll do it for a good price (probably cheaper than some specialist sites charge for a modified car one).

[@lessrr2037]

Love you Blair