Hi, the website is knurledgrips.com. Just grips at the moment. I have been working on some other kits, but nothing specific to the urethane series. You'll hear more about at least one of those in the months ahead. Any other questions, feel free to hit me up at the email on the website. Cheers, Joe

Ha! Awesome, man. Wrath avoided. Thank you for taking the time to let me know that it was helpful. By the way, there's an even cleaner and better looking version of that repair now: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hoCyaIuvjNFsptU Cheers, Joe

Hiya, Caleb. Chances are excellent that the issue is one of the following: 1. Possible broken dial. Can you turn the dial when the handle is out of the base? Are any of the lugs on the dial cracked/missing? If so, the dial needs to be repaired or replaced. 2. Possible broken Disc #2. If disc 2 is cracked it will flex more easily. If it flexes then either plate 1 or 2 may fall out. Look for cracks on disc 2. 3. Possible broken or damaged tab on the weight plate itself. Check the plate's tab: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZicaoJ3ac2XfKs and repair if needed like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hoCyaIuvjNFsptU 4. Possibly assembly issue. Though this is the least likely cause, there is always a possibility that the end nut of the handle has loosened. I would expect to see more than just the one issue that you described. You can check by trying to wiggle the dials and discs like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6fTo4igfrB2qcUsi=BoX8Ebl61UZHmbsX&t=38 If the issue occurs on both handles, no matter which way the handles face, then it's likely #3. If the issue occurs on only one end of one handle, it's likely #1 or #2. Cheers, Joe

@@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC I got it fixed nothing seemed broken after checking so I just kind of slammed the set into the standing plate and locked back in . I found your site btw and I'm amazed. With your upgrades, these weights will become legacy equipment and be around forever .

Hi hi, thank you for reaching out to me. Generally, depending on the order volume any given week, you can expect to see an invoice within 1-2 business days of placing your order, or an email from me if I have questions about your order. If you've placed an order more than 2 days ago, the invoice was likely sent but either ended up in your spam folder or undelivered. Please shoot me an email at [email protected] with your name so that I may look up your order for you and resend it if necessary. Cheers, Joe

The 552 Series 1, 552 Series 2 and 1090 discs are all different, so they're not interchangeable. Cheers

Or should I loosen the bolt in the middle?

@@Angelozeee I never recommend loosening the bolt any more than a quarter or half turn....and only if absolutely necessary. It's better to try to figure out the underlying reason behind why the dials take so much effort to turn. Loosening the bolt even a hair too much may introduce a little play into the components, and that play may be just enough to allow a dial or disc to move such that it releases a weight plate during a workout. The ball bearings are not likely to be the problem. At least, I would be surprised if those were the problem. If you do want to lube them, I would not recommend a penetrant like WD-40. It's not really a lube. Use a silicone dry lube, or even a dab of grease if that's what you have on hand. Have you already inspected all of your weight plates and base to see if any of those are causing the dial to be more difficult to turn? When the handles are empty, and out of their bases, and you press the locking pin buttons in, do the dials turn easily? If they turn easily, the issue has to be with those plates and bases.

I got in contact with core home fitness and they sell replacements

Three solutions come to mind. First is to just buy a couple bases. Those will run you somewhere around $75-100 each. Even at $200 + the original $60 for the dumbbells, that's not too bad. Second would be to try to roughly recreate some sort of cradle to hold the dumbbells and trigger the locking mechanisms. Not impossible but it may take a fair amount of effort to get things to work correctly. For example, I could imagine creating some crude bases out of simple 2x4s and some hardware if you have access to the tools to do it. Third would be to use the dumbbells with no base at all. Doable, but very inconvenient. You'd have to manually press in the locking button with one hand, turn the dial to the desired weight setting (as I do here kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6fTo4igfrB2qcUsi=bXRHASiQectNjrZa&t=232), add and remove weight plates with the other hand, then repeat the process 3 more times just to set the weight one time on two dumbbells. I suppose it's no less inconvenient than changing the weight on loadable dumbbells. I hope this was helpful. Cheers, Joe

@@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC thank you bro I was able to make it work by turning it upside down and press it down the lock with a screwdriver while putting upwards pressure on the handle so I can just rotate to desired weight. I am going to try to make it work with some wood and thick nails to see if it works thank you for taking your time to respond bro really.

I'm glad you found it useful. Thank you for watching my video! Cheers, Joe

The large knurl wheels/drums that my manufacturer uses are not ordinary knurling wheels like you might use with a lathe. You may be thinking of the small straddle knurlers similar to this one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJXWhYKEh7trnLssi=8niSKDtJrSu47WMf&t=27 My manufacturer uses massive knurl wheels mounted on a specialized piece of equipment used for thread rolling and knurling. If I recall correctly, they cost a few grand per pair and we replace them after a certain number of parts. I have no idea where they buy them. Possibly from that machine's manufacturer. Cheers, Joe

I received a similar question by email recently, so I apologize if that was you and this reply is a duplicate. Do you mean that when you turn one of the dials, the shaft turns with it?

Absolutely...here are two of my Snode tear downs: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hnOukJlvh7mMo9k and kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnaUo5yad652j68 Cheers, Joe

I'm glad you found it helpful. That's a great question. This answer applies to *all* adjustable dumbbells that use telescoping rods to select weights, including Nuobell, Core, Snode, MX, Trulap, etc. They all use some variation of a dovetail or tab to interlock their plates. Each of the plates "locks" into the one before it on the handle. You can see the upper and lower tabs on the Trulap plates at 4:00. So the rod keeps the plates aligned, and the dovetails/tabs keep them from sliding off the rods. This is both a strength and a weakness of the telescoping rod design. A video about telescoping rods adjustables has been on my to-do list for quite some time. I'll see about finally filming that video in the months ahead. Cheers, Joe

Good Monday morning to you. I saw that you had posted this question on another video as well, so please excuse the duplicate reply when you see it appear twice. I like to make sure anyone reading comments can see my answer below each appearance of the question. There could be a few different reasons for your pin no longer working smoothly. Here are couple of them: *Spring pin corrosion -* see my video about that here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3zGZ3asad6oi5Y *Catching inside pin cavity -* sometimes wear and tear can lead to the pin and/or the button getting hung up such that it will no longer smoothly press inward, or return back to its original position. I discuss some of that in the following video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6q7haaemJmWrrssi=r6itPmQ2xAZqmkpr Note that the spring only helps to return the button to its original position. In your case, the problem is the opposite and the button will not fully depress. I would disassemble the dumbbell, and remove the locking pin from its cavity. Then inspect the pin, the top of the button and the cavity itself to see if anything has worn in a way that may cause these components to get hung up on each other. If one of the parts is worn/damaged it'll need to be replaced. I make replacement locking pins. I have not yet begun making replacement buttons, but the design and prototype have been ready to go for a couple years now in anticipation of eventually replacing buttons as well. Your only current option for a replacement button would be to find a used part on eBay from someone parting out SelectTechs. Careful...not all buttons are identical. As far as I can tell, there are at least 2-3 versions of it. If you cannot find any obvious wear/damage on the pin or button or inside the cavity, try spraying some lubricant into the cavity and on the button and pin, and test it again. You do not need to fully reassemble the dumbbell each time just to test the button. You can see how I test it in the second video link above. Once you have the button working smoothly by hand, then reassemble the dumbbell. As far as lubricant, I recommend a plastic-friendly, non-greasy lube such as silicone dry lube available from several brands. I'm not on KZbin frequently enough to answer questions in a timely manner. If you have additional questions or run into any issues, feel free to send an email to me at: [email protected] Cheers, Joe

Good Monday morning to you. I saw that you had posted this question on another video as well, so please excuse the duplicate reply when you see it appear twice. I like to make sure anyone reading comments can see my answer below each appearance of the question. There could be a few different reasons for your pin no longer working smoothly. That could definitely cause issues with turning the dial. Here are couple of possible causes: *Spring pin corrosion -* see my video about that here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3zGZ3asad6oi5Y *Catching inside pin cavity -* sometimes wear and tear can lead to the pin and/or the button getting hung up such that it will no longer smoothly press inward, or return back to its original position. I discuss some of that in the following video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6q7haaemJmWrrssi=r6itPmQ2xAZqmkpr Note that the spring only helps to return the button to its original position. In your case, the problem is the opposite and the button will not fully depress. I would disassemble the dumbbell, and remove the locking pin from its cavity. Then inspect the pin, the top of the button and the cavity itself to see if anything has worn in a way that may cause these components to get hung up on each other. If one of the parts is worn/damaged it'll need to be replaced. I make replacement locking pins. I have not yet begun making replacement buttons, but the design and prototype have been ready to go for a couple years now in anticipation of eventually replacing buttons as well. Your only current option for a replacement button would be to find a used part on eBay from someone parting out SelectTechs. Careful...not all buttons are identical. As far as I can tell, there are at least 2-3 versions of it. If you cannot find any obvious wear/damage on the pin or button or inside the cavity, try spraying some lubricant into the cavity and on the button and pin, and test it again. You do not need to fully reassemble the dumbbell each time just to test the button. You can see how I test it in the second video link above. Once you have the button working smoothly by hand, then reassemble the dumbbell. As far as lubricant, I recommend a plastic-friendly, non-greasy lube such as silicone dry lube available from several brands. I'm not on KZbin frequently enough to answer questions in a timely manner. If you have additional questions or run into any issues, feel free to send an email to me at: [email protected] Cheers, Joe

Hiya, LR. Great question. Yes, you can use other bolt sizes so long as the end result meets 3 dimensional criteria: *1. Distance* - the bottom flat face of the bolt head should be positioned in the 17-18mm range that I mention in the video. Too little and your weight plates will feel very loose in the handle. Too much and you will not be able to turn your dials. *2. Width* - the bolt head should be no more than 12mm wide (slightly under 1/2"). It needs to slip down between the tabs on the discs as you place your handle into the base and pull it out. *3. Thickness* - the total height of the bolt from the surface of the weight plate should be no more than 4-4.5mm (slightly under 3/16". So 11/64" is plenty). Too much and you will not be able to turn your dials. Too little (say, 2-3mm) and you risk the plates not being held securely in the handle. I can't recall if I tested 1/4" bolts back a couple years ago when I made the original tab fix video. Dimensionally, they should work for #2 and 3 above. I'm not sure if they'd work for #1 if centered on the original rivet hole. That's something you'd have to try. I vaguely recall selecting the larger bolt size for 2 reasons. First, and most importantly, was that its head dimensions satisfied #1. Second, was that I could always grind/trim the head back if needed to satisfy #2 and 3. In this more recent version of the fix, above, I'd definitely recommend the larger bolt since I remove material from all of its faces to clean it up. Strength-wise, 1/4" bolts would be plenty. In fact, they're all overkill compared to the forces these dumbbells experience. We'd likely destroy other parts of the dumbbell before our DIY bolt tabs would fail. Would love to hear how your project turns out, especially if you go with 1/4" so that folks know they have other options. Cheers, Joe

Hey V, absolutely. You can read more about fit, compatibility, use, etc in my website FAQ: www.averagejoeinnovations.com/#faq and hit me up with an email if you have more questions. Cheers, Joe

@manderschannel2275 I do, I do. Here's my site: www.averagejoeinnovations.com If you have any other questions, just shoot me an email. Cheers, Joe

A couple people who viewed my other 560 video (kzbin.info/www/bejne/amq2moR3osqaY6s) claimed that they fixed a stuck handle by spraying lubricant up into the recess where the locking button is located. That *may* help for minor sticking. Otherwise, I recommend disassembling the handle as I do in the video above to inspect the internal parts. A component may have failed or become dislodged in a way that has jammed the grip.

Hiya, Ed. Sorry to hear about the discs. As far as I am aware, there are no replacement parts available from any aftermarket supplier. Whole handles were available from Bowflex at one time, but I don't even know if they still offer those now. That pretty much leaves 560 owners with one option--used whole dumbbells or handles. Handles rarely pop up for sale without the weights, but even if you find one you'd be buying into something that may itself fail after a short while. You could have a shop fabricate discs, just as I originally did several years ago. But, even if you were to design them yourself, as I did, the fab work for one-offs is typically costly. Sorry, man. I wish I could be of more help. I expected this to eventually happen with the 560s. I hate to see them end up in landfills, but I chose to stay away from making replacement parts for them. Mostly because I have limited capital that's already spread thin across a bunch of products, and I lack the bandwidth to provide adequate customer support for a relatively complex installation. Cheers, Joe

Hi, Mr. G. Just so I am clear about what you're currently dealing with, do you mean the little hex cap screws on the ends of the 560 handle in the video above ? Or are you removing the hex bolt/nut from the end of a Bowflex SelectTech 552? I only ask because a couple people in the past have asked me questions, but on videos for a different model of SelectTech than what they own. I've not yet seen an end screw on a 560 jammed on so tight that even an impact won't remove it. That's crazy, but not surprising because I have seen it on 552s. It's as if they're assembling these things with impact tools at the factories and frequently over-tightening. With a 552, removing the end nut/bolt requires sockets on both ends of the dumbbell to keep the shaft from spinning. On a 560, that *shouldn't* be necessary. The dumbbell shaft *should* be locked in position unless something else is wrong with the handle. If I were to encounter a ridiculously tight end screw on a 560, I'd probably not use my T-handle hex wrench shown in the video. Instead, I'd mount a hex bit in a fairly long breaker bar. Have one person hold the dumbbell and another put some weight into the breaker. There may be just enough play in the 560 handle that it defeats the effectiveness of the impact wrench by absorbing the strikes. With a breaker bar you'll apply constant force with none of the bounce. My biggest concern would be whether that force would be enough to cause a failure of the locking button at 18:26 or the plate at 20:28 in the video. I can't imagine that it would, but anything is possible. Cheers, Joe

Awesome! I'm glad you found my video too. In the immortal words of the A-Team's Hannibal: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKS4d3WjZtp4hNU I love it when a plan comes together.

@danieloconnor9266 Did it end up working or how’d it go?

@WaiIpChungFMOclinic Excellent! So glad the video helped. Thanks for letting me know! Cheers, Joe

Excellent, that's what I was told too. They replied to me shortly after making the video, but I never updated the video description. Also confirmed is that the "unusual" increments aren't really unusual. You'll see that comment elsewhere in this comment section. Thanks for taking the time to let everyone know. Cheers, Joe

Heya, Linda. I'd be happy to hop on a video call to see what's going on. We can go through step by step and figure it out. Sometimes the solution is staring us right in the face and we just need fresh eyes on it. Feel free to email me at: [email protected] and we can set up a time to do that. I can make time one of the evenings later this week. I'm on eastern time. Cheers, Joe

Hiya Craig, I don't believe Bowflex ever sold those end caps separately. Sport Smith claims to have them in stock, so you can verify with them here: sportsmith.com/decal-set-for-bowflex-db1090/product/111087/ If yours are in ok shape and just not sticking properly any more, you can use double sided tape to reattach them. I also make machined aluminum end caps. You can see those here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/op_bmICMi52Ymqcsi=IS0dtY__UdQdpn0B&t=373 Cheers, Joe

@@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC Hey Joe, thanks for the quick reply! Unfortunately I smashed the cap so there's no repairing it. I did find the link to sportsmith but it looks like they don't carry it anymore. I like your machined solution...but I may just find 4 generic black stickers and see if I can make that work. Thanks again...good channel!

@@craignelson2643 Any time, man. Search "vinyl dome sticker 45mm" on eBay. You'll find all sorts of options. Car brands, sports, etc. Here are some grim reapers and punishers for $14 shipped (I cannot vouch for the sellers): www.ebay.com/itm/156218828671 www.ebay.com/itm/166768428387

@@AverageJoeInnovationsLLC great find! I got the punishers…thanks Joe!!

Hiya, Bear. I'm glad you found the video helpful. Thank you for your kind words. So far they're holding up nicely here. 100% agree that being easily repairable is a huge plus. Cheers, Joe

My pleasure, Travis. Thanks for watching my vids! Cheers, Joe

Hi there. Information about discs for your 552 Series 2 can be found up on my website: www.averagejoeinnovations.com. Cheers, Joe

I'm just seeing your comment now. Yes, in terms of density, lead is one of the few affordable and readily available heavy metals. For practical and potential liability reasons, I'd avoid it completely. It's just not worth the effort/risk for the ~33% higher density. Lead has a Mohs of 1.5 so it is incredibly soft. To put that into context, our fingernails have a Mohs of approximately 2.5--hard enough to scratch lead. It would definitely have to be poured/cast into a hard shell to protect it from damage. More importantly, lead is generally not something you want around the house--even it is seems safely contained. I know it's fairly common in other industries (e.g. fishing) and you'll hear some people say it is perfectly fine in its solid form. Decades ago I helped a company make a PSA about the lead contamination on various products found in homes, and the impact on health, especially for kids. That was an eye-opener. The risk isn't worth it...at least not for a business producing equipment for use by the general public. Still, I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Thanks!

I'm glad it helped. Thank you so much for taking the time to let everyone know how your dumbbells differed. At times I feel as if Bowflex just used whatever parts it had on hand at the factories to assemble these things, and that resulted in so many variations. Note that many of these SelectTechs do require the hex nuts as you discovered, but that there is also a version of SelectTechs that shipped with embedded bosses. So far, I've only seen bosses on 552 Series 2. Cheers, Joe

Oh man, thank you for the reminder, Oldog. Sometimes I mention topics that later fall off of my radar. My 552 Series 1 and 1090 35mm grips are the same tightness shown with the 552 S2. I can tell you that a few minutes with a utility knife to create a mild and virtually unnoticeable chamfer on the plastic openings of the JayFlex (right where it comes into contact with the flared ends of my grips) would virtually eliminate that tightness. I may just do that as an upcoming short vid when I have the time. Thanks for reaching out about this. Cheers, Joe