I had to choose Kobra 2 but aimed for the very low-cost Kobra Neo. Bought it used but had to deal with the problems. I disassembled and replaced the extruder but the filament is not melted correctly and does not go through the 0.4 mm nozzle. I often do the "step" test so as to define the exact distance . Then align the 'nozzle in manual with the A4 sheet. Z offset ----> 1.30 . Now I reassemble everything again and hope that this time is the right time . In my opinion the filament once dry behaves badly and is not "accepted" by the caulker. I was better off with the Mega S (as far as the 'extruder was concerned) several years ago. Let me know. Thank you very much.

This RT seems like a good deal. I've had a Vertex 8" for quite a few years & from looking at your Vevor it seems very similar. Actually, close to an exact copy. I have a nice 8" 3 jaw, face mount cuck that I can use with it. But rarely use the chuck with the RT. It would be nice to have a larger clamping surface, but a 10" RT is really too heavy for an old man. Instead I cast an aluminum plate and machined it flat, round (11" meant to be 12" but I screwed up) and made 8 T slots. The additional clamping area and T slots helps a lot. I copied Blondihack's center pin scheme to radius the ends of parts. I made a wooden cradle to store the RT on because I leave the locating blocks on the bottom of the RT all the time. I bought the footstock and indexing plates with my RT but now that I have a BS1 indexing head I rarely use them. I tried leaving the RT mounted along with the vice, but it got in the way too often. Other methods of indexing: fast for 2,3,4 &6 facets. Can be mounted at an angle in the vice if needed. I've got the 5C & ER40 blocks and collets because I have other tools that use the same collets. : 360 increments of one ° each. Relatively cheap but requires a collet set. Mine takes 5C collets and I have machined the base parallel to the spindle axis so it can be quickly clamped in the main vice. I reversed the work holding ends for better access to the work. I have a 3" chuck that can be used with the indexer. Comes with indexing plates allowing a very large # of spacings. Can rotate the axis from -10° to straight up. Can use a chuck or work between centers using a foot stock. If you need some odd spacings it is possible to make special plates. Used for making spur gears, spines and can approximate bevel gears. (See Keith Ruck's video on bevel gears.) You can approximate spur gear teeth by hand grinding a single tip tool. Or buy gear cutters. To manage all the tooth counts in a particular gear tooth pattern you need a set of 8 gear cutters. In the straight up position, it takes a lot of Z axis! : Complex setup using a gear set between the mill table x axis feed and the indexing head. Can make spiral gears in addition to spur gears.

How do you get ahold of Brad? I’ve tried a couple times to have a cab made for our kioti tractor.

Great job and repurpose the drill excellent .

For me i would like to see the demo not wide open but variable speed .we have to assume the more pressure the more things will wear .after all it was designed to be hand crank.

Where this touch off tool work is on CNC mill

I have been trying to use this on coffee cups and am having less than ideal success. What kind of laser are you using?

That's not really remarkable, if you took the material out loosing 1 jaw Then put it back in and it's true, you will get myattention

Thank you thank you. I didnt have filament stuck in the gears but I did have filament buildup in the nozzle and the blue tube was melted. This video helped me to do what I needed to get my 3d printer up and running. Thanks again.

That is awesome. Gave me a lot of good ideas. 👍 Also, do your welding before your precision machining or setting your rails. The welds will distort the object.

Hello, what is in the middle of the grinding hub when on the machine that uses a Allen key >? is that the hub puller ? Thx Alec

Hello, great video! were can i cat Mr Sopko's grinding wheel balancers i cant find it ? Thank You Alec

Also, if you take balanced cuts you will always hit your target size.

Your poor finish finish is not turning fast enough and your DOC is too small for carbide insert tooling. But I like the video. Cheers

I’m made in Canada too! 🇨🇦

Thank you very much, sir, for sharing this video, and this is exactly what I'm looking for.

Great video! Got the link Anycubic themself. I just got one (big) question: How did you unplug the ribbon cable? It's hard to follow your instructions when I can't get the extruder off :/

thanks for helping me fix my 3d printer

Wow good job Brad! Well deserved Gilles, you'll have fun all year long with your Kubota

WOW, excellent video Gilles thanks so much for the exposure much appreciated buddy 👍👍

Nice craftsmanship, Canadian built as well! I bet you can hardly wait for the snow. Cheers!

He did awesome job on the cap.

great build.

Wish flanges like that were available for purchase. Good work!

That was one hell of an impressive fix 👍

Very nice work

Что за жидкость вы использовали?

took it all apart. no stuck filament. cleaned the gears. There were little bits of plastic on the gears but probably not something that would stop the gears from turning. I assume my nozzle was just clogged and the extruder was just 'backfiring' because it couldn't push anything through the nozzle. My extruder would suddenly make a ticking(?) sound when extruding. I couldn't extrude normally (only partially), but I could retract from the printer itself (I guess this could have been a clue). I did try cleaning it but it was still clogged. I have only printed various types of PLA and PETG. Nothing else. So Im not sure how it could get clogged and not melt from the high temps (or maybe there was some small bits of metal in the nozzle?!? Anyhoooo I just replaced the nozzle with the spare that came with the printer. I also tightened the x and y belt tensioners, greased up the two vertical axles, greased the horizontal and two parallel slide rails (for head and under the bed, respectively) (all for normal maintenance routine), tightened extruder tension, and recalibrated everything after swapping out the nozzle and after doing the earlier maintenance stuff (auto bed level, vibration, nozzle calibration, etc.) and now it prints like new!! Side notes: Before taking things apart. Check the warranty / refund policy: store.anycubic.com/pages/refund-policy Maybe you will be able to create a support ticket and get things replaced! In my case I was outside the window, but you could still try to create a support ticket and get a part replaced for almost to completely free (based on reddit posts). If you dont want the extruder spring to fly off, you can loosen it completely, cover your hand over the spring contraption, turn it on its side at a angle towards the floor or upside down then slowly pry/pull the gear part of the extruder tension lever away from the rest of the part to get the whole spring contraption loose. No broken eyes for me!! Go easy on the plugs! They are tiny and can easily break. Go slow and do little bits of tugging to get it loose. You should not apply any serious amounts of force on small parts. That is a fast way of breaking something! Thanks for the video though! It gave me some peace of mind that there was guide to disassemble my 3d printer for the first time!

I truly like your threaded exterior washer, it is easy to do fine tuninh that way.

How do we get the wherl arbor off just that split nut isnt it could u show how it comes off

Did you use the same tool settings for the 90 degree as well? Except it being 90 degrees rather than 120.

You think you've got it bad, come down to Australia. The oils I need only seem to be available in 20 litre drums 😢

Lovely video and great explanation. Helped me a lot. Thanks you!

Thank you so much! Very kind of you to show us. ❤

Thank you. You helped me a lot.

"What you are going to need to do first is go to the foundry" 😂😂 I don't have a surface grinder, metal working lathe. I just a man in a shed.

I see a lot of negative comments here, I think they come from lazy people without imagination who only look for what's easy. I bought a Dewalt DW758 8” bench grinder (USD$275 in my country) and it was a big disappointment for me to put it to work, it vibrated terribly. Worried, I began to investigate the reasons and solutions. I did it!! with just an angle grinder, a drill and a homemade belt grinder. I can't guarantee that the pieces I made were perfect with those tools but they do work perfectly, now I have zero vibrations and I am very satisfied! Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, it was very useful to me. Greetings from Ecuador 🇪🇨

Thank you.

So how do you setit up?

I was hoping you could provide some info on the snowplow attachment? I am going to be buying a friend’s b1750 and would love to fit it for plowing in the winter but I am not finding a lot of resources online to get started..

thanks for the review, just what I wanted to know.

Thank you for the file as well as this video Nice job

G’day and greetings from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺 that is a great idea to use a drill hadn’t thought of that, I have a HM 46 geared head which is very heavy to move mainly up with a crank handle. I am going to have a go at making what you did, thank you for sharing that it’s much appreciated, kind regards John

Thank you for taking the time, effort and expense to do this review - I had my doubts given the price point, my expectations aren't excessive, however it looks to be very accurate for the things that matter

Nice work

I think, I would have pinned that shaft, but that's just me.

Good one. I'm sure he will be very happy with it.

Why you keep resting and dragging that 70 lb unit on on that rotary dial is blowing my mind !

Good one, Gilles. That's useful information. But I use the shaper to make slots :)