Clogged Extruder - Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro

Here's a step by step video showing how I disassemble/reassemble the entire extruder.

[@gokat52]

Good video dude, it showed me exactly what I wanted to see. The video probably didn't need to be so long though. Speeding up the unscrewing of the bolts would help and there were a couple of occasions where you explained yourself twice. besides that, cheers for the video.

[@laniblackburn6041]

Thank you thank you. I didnt have filament stuck in the gears but I did have filament buildup in the nozzle and the blue tube was melted. This video helped me to do what I needed to get my 3d printer up and running. Thanks again.

[@LetsRogerThat]

You’re welcome Lani. Gilles 😊

[@DizioTech]

Thank you ! I just serviced my K2max with your video in the background !

[@LetsRogerThat]

You’re welcome

[@mennokleene3321]

Thank you for your video, it was very helpfull. thanks to you I felt sure enough to take apart the extruder of my Anycubic Kobra 2 Max to get rid of a clog.

[@LetsRogerThat]

Glad to help.

[@dietergugel7355]

Lovely video and great explanation. Helped me a lot. Thanks you!

[@LetsRogerThat]

My pleasure Dieter. Gilles

[@jabronelames619]

Thank you! I just got my Kobra working again following this

[@LetsRogerThat]

Awesome

[@jeffcopus]

2 comments. Better lighting. Show items closer to the camera, and in focus. Thank you sir.

[@IkeMann100]

Thank you so much! Very kind of you to show us. ❤

[@LetsRogerThat]

You’re welcome

[@TacocatArmySam]

thanks for helping me fix my 3d printer

[@LetsRogerThat]

Happy I could help Cobb

[@Syntezzz]

Thank you. This video helped alot with my Kobra 2 pro.

[@LetsRogerThat]

Glad I could help

[@jonathonwood4088]

Your video helped me too! I had some spare parts and I didn't know where they went. I'm not even using tpu yet, I'm using glitter clear pla and I'm just going to keep it on my anet et4 because (i guess) is retracting back into the extruder hot, then solidifying inside it and it requires some... persuation... to get back out. It's happened twice now

[@LetsRogerThat]

You’re welcome Jonathon. Retraction is definitely an issue with this printer. I’ve dedicated mine for TPU now and reduced retraction to 1-2mm. Works great now.

[@user-lc3br8tg6f]

Thank you for your help sir!

[@LetsRogerThat]

You’re very welcome

[@pierpa_76pierpaolo]

I had to choose Kobra 2 but aimed for the very low-cost Kobra Neo. Bought it used but had to deal with the problems. I disassembled and replaced the extruder but the filament is not melted correctly and does not go through the 0.4 mm nozzle. I often do the "step" test so as to define the exact distance . Then align the 'nozzle in manual with the A4 sheet. Z offset ----> 1.30 . Now I reassemble everything again and hope that this time is the right time . In my opinion the filament once dry behaves badly and is not "accepted" by the caulker. I was better off with the Mega S (as far as the 'extruder was concerned) several years ago. Let me know. Thank you very much.

[@LetsRogerThat]

@@pierpa_76pierpaolo I’m no expert but making sure the filament is in good condition is important. Since I fixed my Kobra, I dedicate it only for TPU. I make sure to print slowly and I haven’t had any clogs since. I also use glue stick on the bed to make it easier to remove printed parts. There’s not much else I can add. I wish I could be more helpful. Gilles

[@pierpa_76pierpaolo]

@@LetsRogerThat Okay. But in my case the biggest problem is that it doesn't go through the extruder. Pure is mounted everything perfectly. I assemble and reassemble the extruder every day looking for the problem and various replacements (I had to change three times the NTC temperature sensor lasts really short) without even printing. I will try again hoping to get it working again.

[@Stefan-nrw]

Thank you. You helped me a lot.

[@LetsRogerThat]

Glad to be of service Stephan. Gilles

[@omgnogod666]

took it all apart. no stuck filament. cleaned the gears. There were little bits of plastic on the gears but probably not something that would stop the gears from turning. I assume my nozzle was just clogged and the extruder was just 'backfiring' because it couldn't push anything through the nozzle. My extruder would suddenly make a ticking(?) sound when extruding. I couldn't extrude normally (only partially), but I could retract from the printer itself (I guess this could have been a clue). I did try cleaning it but it was still clogged. I have only printed various types of PLA and PETG. Nothing else. So Im not sure how it could get clogged and not melt from the high temps (or maybe there was some small bits of metal in the nozzle?!? Anyhoooo I just replaced the nozzle with the spare that came with the printer. I also tightened the x and y belt tensioners, greased up the two vertical axles, greased the horizontal and two parallel slide rails (for head and under the bed, respectively) (all for normal maintenance routine), tightened extruder tension, and recalibrated everything after swapping out the nozzle and after doing the earlier maintenance stuff (auto bed level, vibration, nozzle calibration, etc.) and now it prints like new!! Side notes: Before taking things apart. Check the warranty / refund policy: store.anycubic.com/pages/refund-policy Maybe you will be able to create a support ticket and get things replaced! In my case I was outside the window, but you could still try to create a support ticket and get a part replaced for almost to completely free (based on reddit posts). If you dont want the extruder spring to fly off, you can loosen it completely, cover your hand over the spring contraption, turn it on its side at a angle towards the floor or upside down then slowly pry/pull the gear part of the extruder tension lever away from the rest of the part to get the whole spring contraption loose. No broken eyes for me!! Go easy on the plugs! They are tiny and can easily break. Go slow and do little bits of tugging to get it loose. You should not apply any serious amounts of force on small parts. That is a fast way of breaking something! Thanks for the video though! It gave me some peace of mind that there was guide to disassemble my 3d printer for the first time!

[@LetsRogerThat]

Glad it worked out. That’s awesome

[@omgnogod666]

@@LetsRogerThat thanks for an awesome video!

[@oliverweber7992]

Great video! Got the link Anycubic themself. I just got one (big) question: How did you unplug the ribbon cable? It's hard to follow your instructions when I can't get the extruder off :/

[@LetsRogerThat]

Hi Oliver and thanks for the question. I just made a shirt video for you explaning how to remove the ribbon cable. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rGTYZ2pmq9iUsM0

[@1FishinAddict]

Replaced my hotend with the ceramic of Creality K1 and it’s printing way better. Precise heat and a bit less mass to swing.

[@LetsRogerThat]

I also have a K1. Amazing machine. Great tip. Thanks

[@Enjoymentboy]

A few things I've learned with my kobra 2. First, minimize retractions on non-flexible filament to 1.5mm and flexibles to 5mm. You don't want the molten end pulling too far back as that can start the clogging process and being a direct drive you don't need anywhere near as much retraction as with a bowden tube. Second, when done a print retract 15-20mm to make sure no filament is left in the nozzle. This will make it MUCH easier to feed new filament for the next print. I added a 20mm retract to my end gcode. Third, replace the heatbreak with a bi-metal heatbreak from a CR6. This has eliminated clogs and allows me to use standard volcano nozzles. Be aware though that this will require the indictive probe height to be reset but this is simple enough to do.

[@cristianjosadec]

Hello , Kobra 2 or Kobra 2 Pro ?

[@Enjoymentboy]

@@cristianjosadec First series Kobra 2 (marlin based). I've also heard the bi-metal ones for a vyper are a better option but I've had zero issues with the CR6 one and I have over 10kg through it now.

[@cristianjosadec]

@@Enjoymentboy Ok but I think the extruder is different to the Kobra 2 PRO.

[@Enjoymentboy]

@@cristianjosadec They're actually almost exactly the same. Either way retraction has the same effect with both being direct drive. With a bowden you need more retraction but with these printheads less is fine. For PLA and PETG I use 1.0mm and with TPU I use 2.0mm retraction. Anything above that and I start getting clogs. I have very little stringing except with PETG and on small print areas.

[@adbellable]

my nozzle screws came loose. can you use loctite, blue or red?

[@LetsRogerThat]

I would not. To release the nozzle in the future you would likely damage the heating housing. Release temperature for red and blue is 550F 287C. At that temperature the housing may get compromised if force is required. Check the threads on nozzle and housing. If ok, tighten nozzle until snug again and check tightness by hand. If it won’t stay tight you may need to replace the one that is stripped

[@adbellable]

ok maybe i will shim it with the sock material. thnx

[@Bill-Hicks]

I made a huge mistake when pulling the black clip that connects the two cables of the Heater with the board... I pulled and the two cables went out the socket... And now I can't see how to put them back inside the two holes, they just don't fit well and don't stay there. What a fucking mess I did

[@davidwilson4190]

how did you fix it? I looked on ali express, entirely new print head is $30 USD, 10 min swap, I've made more expensive mistakes...

[@Bill-Hicks]

@@davidwilson4190 I bought a new one like you said, like 20 dollars, it was too hard to put the wires back in, it had to be done only by welding the tip, and even then it was tossing a coin