Only if the water heater is part of a closed system, which is created when there is a check valve in the incoming water supply that prevents the expansion of heated water from flowing back into the water main. That is not the case with the water heater we installed here.

Great video my friend. Wasn’t sure if I needed one but I was told since I was on a well there was no need for an expansion tank. Installed the same model today with the help of your video!! Thank you so much

It is less necessary - however cold lines can be condensation points. The way that water beads up on a cold glass on a warm day, your cold pipes can do the same thing which is not ideal.

Only if the water heater is part of a closed system, which is created when there is a check valve in the incoming water supply that prevents the expansion of heated water from flowing back into the water main. That is not the case with the water heater we installed here.

The answer to this one was a bit complicated and may vary where you are. Our expert said that it is a code requirement for a closed water system by the code book. You can ask the inspector for the code at the time of inspection and talk with them about how it is enforced. Some plumbing companies require it for all of their installations which will increase the installation cost and so that they can avoid failing any potential inspections. I hope this answers your question!

Yes definitely!

Hello Cameron, Per code, it must go to an approved location. For our installation it is in the garage. This drain is allowed to go to the floor, no closer than 6". We run our relief valve drains in CPVC, PVC is not allowed. Where your water heater is located will dictate where it should go. Is yours in a garage?

@@CommunityEnergyProject yes it is in the garage. No closer than 6 inches but what is the maximum height from the ground? Thanks for responding

@@cameron7889 Here's when we go straight to the Uniform Plumbing Code: UPC 608.5 Relief valves located inside a building shall be provided with a drain, not smaller than the relief valve outlet, of galvanized steel, hard drawn copper piping and fittings, CPVC, or listed relief valve drain tube with fittings which will not reduce the internal bore of the pipe or tubing (straight lengths as opposed to coils) and shall extend from the valve to the outside of the building with the end of the pipe not more than two (2) feet (610 mm) nor less than six (6) inches (152 mm) above the ground or the flood level of the area receiving the discharge and pointing downward. Such drains may terminate at other approved locations. No part of such drain pipe shall be trapped or subject to freezing. The terminal end of the drain pipe shall not be threaded.

Great question, Jason! Only if the water heater is part of a closed system, which is created when there is a check valve in the incoming water supply that prevents the expansion of heated water from flowing back into the water main. That is not the case with the water heater we installed here.

It may take a couple of hours to heat up your water for the first time. The time will be impacted based on the size of your water heater, and the temperature.

Hello! Typically as you join additional drains together you are supposed to increase the size. With that said if someone was to tie 2 drains together it will not do harm. Just for additional context you can install a condensation pump and use it for up to 4 drains.

Great thanks! And thanks for the video! I was able to swap out my 20 year old gas water heater with a heat pump water heater with (almost) no problem. One thing I don't recall seeing addressed in the video or in the PDF manual was when to include a thermal expansion tank. Definitely something you don't want to forget when working with a closed water system.

@@cspyker That's amazing! And thanks for the feedback. This was our first time shooting a field video and have learned a lot. :)

oh no! I reached out to GNW Installations, and he said you may be able to solve this issue by trouble-shooting your alarm code. Go to page 26 of your user manual for full instructions. Go to "troubleshooting alarm codes" and follow the steps.

We thought so too! :)

Hi Adam - Most all water heaters come with pre-installed heat trap nipples for both the hot and cold connection points. This can look different pending the installation in most cases - you'll have to look at the specific manufacturer's instructions.

You can’t read until you get the manual from the box containing the unit. Some folks like to plan ahead, even ahead of a purchase.

What a great question! Here is what our technician tells us in response: "I wish we could use the HPWH (heat pump water heater) for more than just heating water but we are not there yet 100%. Hydronic heating can overtax a HPWH and more importantly, the biggest hurdle is how the HPWH functions. The return loop back to the HPWH can create an issue in which the HPWH will not kick on to heat. It confuses the thermistors that help control heating. It will think that it does not need to heat given the temp of the returning water. This is the same issue we have with just setting up re-circulation pumps on HPWHs. There are some workarounds but you do not know until you turn them on if they will do the trick and a bit more costly. " I hope this helps. :)

Thank you for the feedback, this is an excellent suggestion.

one, no, make it two very noticeable omissions; (1) you talked about the need for a foam base under the 200+ lb. water heater and then it just magically appeared underneath... exactly how did you get it there...by yourself? And, (2) where is the drain pan?! My 65 gal. Proterra had to be manhandled by 2 burly guys onto a board tall enough to tilt and wheel it over the top of a flimsy 3 in tall aluminum drain pan (with a plastic sheet underneath it all, to slide it into final position} ... we were GASSED by the time we were done! I'm in Florida, with a concrete-floor basement garage... do I REALLY need a foam base under it?

THANK YOU!

From our friend at Great Northwest: "So, a 90 instead of a tee will work (AO Smith actually sends a 90 for their HPWH). A tee is recommended so that it can be cleaned out if needed."

@@CommunityEnergyProject Thank you for the quick response.

Great question! We asked the expert and this was his response: "We only need to use an anti-siphen/ vacuum relief valve if the water heater is above all the plumbing in the home. Such as an attic. It is used to prevent siphoning of the water heater if the water heater was no longer being fed water, water pressure dropped and or a hydrant outside was opened for fire purposes."

@@CommunityEnergyProject thank you for the response!

Hi Jovanny - we asked our expert and this was his response: "California Energy standards should be referenced locally as every jurisdiction has its own guidelines. Typically a water heater should be protected, if installed outside it can be in an enclosure. I know they make water heater sheds for California but with a heat pump, it would still require the same air space for the heat pump water heater. If the enclosure is smaller than the manufacturer required (by Sq Ft) you should install louvers and or ducting." - I hope this helps!

Great question! Because this installation was done in a garage, the customer was fine with the cold air simply cooling down the garage air. However, if this were installed in a conditioned space, say a closet in a bedroom, then the venting of exhaust air would be a best practice, and can be trickier. In the case of a closet with a closed door, ventilation (such as louvers) will need to be added to the door to allow intake as well, even if it were vented externally. From what we've heard from installers - the temperature dip is relatively modest as long as the cold air is not blowing on you directly. But some people are more sensitive to that than others.

My cold air vents into a corner of a detached garage--5 ft.-- and I've noticed that the truism about cold air following the hot air applies some per the inlet temperatures to about 2 degrees. Opening up a nearby door and using a portable fan whenever the sun rises helps some too. Another company sells those vent attachments for much less than Rheem does--the 40 gallon attachments are even less expensive. May put a temporary winter vent on the same mentioned door. The cold air is nice in the summer and some plants thrive at cooler temps. About 60 degrees is the sweet spot in my experience.

Great question, Aaron. I posed this question to our plumber. He replied: "We test for open and closed systems. If the incoming water line test open we do not install an expansion tank. If the incoming water line tests closed we will install an expansion tank." In this instance it was an open water system.

How has it worked out for you?

What part of the country are you in? I'm considering purchasing this unit but I'm concerned about freezing my basement 🤣😂🤣😉 in the winter.

@@martintorres7480 I'm in Oregon. If the heat pump feature can't pull enough heat out of the air, then it will switch to being a normal water heater. But man can that thing pull all the heat out. It's right next to the door of my garage and you can feeeeel it! I just weatherstripped the garage well tho so it doesn't matter. It also dehumidifies a little which has been nice.

49 dBa rated Sound Level per Rheem stat sheet

Hi buixote - to be on the investor side of a community solar project is much less straightforward. For this you'd need to contact Project Managers and see if any of them have investment opportunities. There are only a handful of Project Managers - check out www.oregoncsp.org - then go to the "project finder" to the right and you can see which projects are in the process of being built. Click on any project and a profile will come up with contact information for that Project Manager. I imagine many of them are looking for investors!

Ducting would probably be a wise decision - the air output will be quite cold. Additionally it will be pulling from heat that you are paying to create because it's in an indoor space - so you don't want to "pollute" your warm air with a blast of cold air in the winter. In the summer it may feel quite nice, however. :) THis video may be more elaborate than what you're looking for, but does talk about how to run ductwork for a water heater: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b6O5gJ6Ghslredk

It is very quiet

We have had noise complaints from some folks we've installed water heaters for, but not a majority. In general it's recommended that a heat pump water heater be installed in an unconditioned space such as a garage, rather than a living space.