Hybrid Water Heater Professional Installation Guide

Heat pump, or hybrid, water heaters use electricity to move heat from one place to another instead of generating heat directly. They can be 2-3x more energy efficient than conventional water heaters! This video covers the basics steps of DIY Hybrid Water Heater Installation, including the tools and supplies you'll need.
Access our online resource manual here - drive.google.c...
This Community Energy Project workshop was made possible with funding from Energy Trust of Oregon, created in partnership with Great Northwest Installations (www.greatnorth...)

[@mikefarmer4079]

Excellent although I'd like to see a brief section for the actual plumbing and electrical connections. I appreciate the fact that this guy is not long-winded, is very informative and speaks very well.

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

Thank you for the feedback, this is an excellent suggestion.

[@kirkcavender4816]

one, no, make it two very noticeable omissions; (1) you talked about the need for a foam base under the 200+ lb. water heater and then it just magically appeared underneath... exactly how did you get it there...by yourself? And, (2) where is the drain pan?! My 65 gal. Proterra had to be manhandled by 2 burly guys onto a board tall enough to tilt and wheel it over the top of a flimsy 3 in tall aluminum drain pan (with a plastic sheet underneath it all, to slide it into final position} ... we were GASSED by the time we were done! I'm in Florida, with a concrete-floor basement garage... do I REALLY need a foam base under it?

[@selrahc2061]

​​@@kirkcavender4816 I have foam under my water heater. It is for electric isolation in case it leaks or if you have flooding. Electric grounding chooses the shortest path you do not want to be the path. It is an insulator also. But not really all newer heater are foamed internally.

[@BrianDavis252]

This guy is a great teacher

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

We thought so too! :)

[@alipsettphoto]

Putting one in this week. Excited to see the results.

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

How has it worked out for you?

[@KLADDKAKA1985]

This is exactly the video I was looking for. Thanks a lot!

[@jeffzimnisky7073]

Please ( coming from a Rheem warranty tech) remove the rear screws holding the top cover and second cover so anyone working on it doesn't have to remove the tank to get the screws out. Rheem doesn't cover the cost of a Technician to remove the tank. 😊

[@Hibsch]

THANK YOU!

[@mzambrano0309]

This was what I was looking for. Thank you!

[@patrickradford4240]

Excellent presentation. Thank you

[@krehbein]

Why is the flex metal ss pipe needed? Seems like you could have just run pex to the hot and cold on the heater. ?

[@wt9653]

Looks great!

[@markday5797]

Looking forward to getting my hybrid water heater and leaving natural gas behind.

[@cameron7889]

What do I need to do with the pressure relief valve? It looks like you installed a PVC pipe to the floor but it is hard to tell in the video.

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

Hello Cameron, Per code, it must go to an approved location. For our installation it is in the garage. This drain is allowed to go to the floor, no closer than 6". We run our relief valve drains in CPVC, PVC is not allowed. Where your water heater is located will dictate where it should go. Is yours in a garage?

[@cameron7889]

@@CommunityEnergyProject yes it is in the garage. No closer than 6 inches but what is the maximum height from the ground? Thanks for responding

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

@@cameron7889 Here's when we go straight to the Uniform Plumbing Code: UPC 608.5 Relief valves located inside a building shall be provided with a drain, not smaller than the relief valve outlet, of galvanized steel, hard drawn copper piping and fittings, CPVC, or listed relief valve drain tube with fittings which will not reduce the internal bore of the pipe or tubing (straight lengths as opposed to coils) and shall extend from the valve to the outside of the building with the end of the pipe not more than two (2) feet (610 mm) nor less than six (6) inches (152 mm) above the ground or the flood level of the area receiving the discharge and pointing downward. Such drains may terminate at other approved locations. No part of such drain pipe shall be trapped or subject to freezing. The terminal end of the drain pipe shall not be threaded.

[@webstartup]

Thank you for the video. Will this work with a hydronic heating system. Right now I have a hyrdonic water heater but would love to use this if possible.

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

What a great question! Here is what our technician tells us in response: "I wish we could use the HPWH (heat pump water heater) for more than just heating water but we are not there yet 100%. Hydronic heating can overtax a HPWH and more importantly, the biggest hurdle is how the HPWH functions. The return loop back to the HPWH can create an issue in which the HPWH will not kick on to heat. It confuses the thermistors that help control heating. It will think that it does not need to heat given the temp of the returning water. This is the same issue we have with just setting up re-circulation pumps on HPWHs. There are some workarounds but you do not know until you turn them on if they will do the trick and a bit more costly. " I hope this helps. :)

[@LT-R828]

I was told that a Thermal Expansion Tank needs to be installed with a hybrid water tank. Is this correct? A tech told me that it is required according to code.

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

The answer to this one was a bit complicated and may vary where you are. Our expert said that it is a code requirement for a closed water system by the code book. You can ask the inspector for the code at the time of inspection and talk with them about how it is enforced. Some plumbing companies require it for all of their installations which will increase the installation cost and so that they can avoid failing any potential inspections. I hope this answers your question!

[@robertyoungberg5098]

Should add comment that when draining the tank, open faucets above to drain all the water out and most important, when filling the tank, open faucets above to let air out of the system! Too much air trapped in the tank will burn it out!

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

Yes definitely!

[@wheeleking9049]

Why doesn't anyone talk about the problems with these? Might be a good idea to know what yr getting into before you waste yr money. Does look nice & pretty. I love them, keeps me busy. LOL

[@AnotherPersonOn]

Is there no expansion tank needed in these types of water heaters?

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

Great question, Jason! Only if the water heater is part of a closed system, which is created when there is a check valve in the incoming water supply that prevents the expansion of heated water from flowing back into the water main. That is not the case with the water heater we installed here.

[@cspyker]

Is it okay in Oregon to tie the heat pump water heater's condensate drain line into an existing condensate drain line for an air conditioner or heat pump? I'd like to avoid punching a new hole in an exterior wall if possible.

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

Hello! Typically as you join additional drains together you are supposed to increase the size. With that said if someone was to tie 2 drains together it will not do harm. Just for additional context you can install a condensation pump and use it for up to 4 drains.

[@cspyker]

Great thanks! And thanks for the video! I was able to swap out my 20 year old gas water heater with a heat pump water heater with (almost) no problem. One thing I don't recall seeing addressed in the video or in the PDF manual was when to include a thermal expansion tank. Definitely something you don't want to forget when working with a closed water system.

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

@@cspyker That's amazing! And thanks for the feedback. This was our first time shooting a field video and have learned a lot. :)

[@johnwhite2576]

Have you installed Steibel eltron

[@model3geek163]

My installer used a 90 instead of a T for condensate drain? Any possible issues with that instead of the T? I just switched it to a T after reviewing the manual and seeing your video.

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

From our friend at Great Northwest: "So, a 90 instead of a tee will work (AO Smith actually sends a 90 for their HPWH). A tee is recommended so that it can be cleaned out if needed."

[@model3geek163]

@@CommunityEnergyProject Thank you for the quick response.

[@jolyonwelsh9834]

Where is your electrical disconnect, if not in line of sight from your panel?

[@DogDreamify]

There are tons of noise complaints about this generation of Rheem heat pump water heaters, care to shed any insight on that? Has that not been your experience with the current Rheem line?

[@assmunch1]

It is very quiet

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

We have had noise complaints from some folks we've installed water heaters for, but not a majority. In general it's recommended that a heat pump water heater be installed in an unconditioned space such as a garage, rather than a living space.

[@martintorres7480]

Wondering if anyone in the northeast has purchased this unit and how well it works in our area.

[@tomnguyen7920]

Hi after installed how long water will be hot ? Thanks

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

It may take a couple of hours to heat up your water for the first time. The time will be impacted based on the size of your water heater, and the temperature.

[@MB-bd4hs]

No need for an expansion tank?

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

Only if the water heater is part of a closed system, which is created when there is a check valve in the incoming water supply that prevents the expansion of heated water from flowing back into the water main. That is not the case with the water heater we installed here.

[@MB-bd4hs]

Great video my friend. Wasn’t sure if I needed one but I was told since I was on a well there was no need for an expansion tank. Installed the same model today with the help of your video!! Thank you so much

[@tanadarko6991]

Mine's in the garage so the noise doesn't bother me - but wow it sure makes my garage a lot cooler in the summer and like an ice box in the winter.

[@martintorres7480]

What part of the country are you in? I'm considering purchasing this unit but I'm concerned about freezing my basement 🤣😂🤣😉 in the winter.

[@tanadarko6991]

@@martintorres7480 I'm in Oregon. If the heat pump feature can't pull enough heat out of the air, then it will switch to being a normal water heater. But man can that thing pull all the heat out. It's right next to the door of my garage and you can feeeeel it! I just weatherstripped the garage well tho so it doesn't matter. It also dehumidifies a little which has been nice.

[@robardave]

do you not vent the cold air out from the heat exchanger?

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

Great question! Because this installation was done in a garage, the customer was fine with the cold air simply cooling down the garage air. However, if this were installed in a conditioned space, say a closet in a bedroom, then the venting of exhaust air would be a best practice, and can be trickier. In the case of a closet with a closed door, ventilation (such as louvers) will need to be added to the door to allow intake as well, even if it were vented externally. From what we've heard from installers - the temperature dip is relatively modest as long as the cold air is not blowing on you directly. But some people are more sensitive to that than others.

[@mcswato1]

My cold air vents into a corner of a detached garage--5 ft.-- and I've noticed that the truism about cold air following the hot air applies some per the inlet temperatures to about 2 degrees. Opening up a nearby door and using a portable fan whenever the sun rises helps some too. Another company sells those vent attachments for much less than Rheem does--the 40 gallon attachments are even less expensive. May put a temporary winter vent on the same mentioned door. The cold air is nice in the summer and some plants thrive at cooler temps. About 60 degrees is the sweet spot in my experience.

[@Zomby_Woof]

​@@CommunityEnergyProjectMy concern is more with the intake. Our mobile home is well sealed, but if I were to vent the cold discharge out of the adjacent wall, and did not duct the intake as well, it will be using ambient air, which take a suction on the house, pulling replacement air through the cracks and seams. In the summer, this can really raise the electric consumption. I have a single hose portable a/c that I am getting rid of in favor of either a mini split or dual hose unit for that reason. Will ducting the inlet of this type of water heater to an immediately adjacent wall require a booster fan or any other modification? Looks like I can go straight out, but I'd need a 90 down to avoid rainwater. Is their a recomended length for the duct going down to avoid sucking in rainwater? It looks like a low static large dianeter fan is used - would i need to build ductwork with the same total cross section? I'd really hate to go through all that time and expense and then burn out a fan.

[@gg-gn3re]

@@Zomby_Woof in nearly all scenarios in every climate venting outside is less efficient due to the air you're sucking in from the outside too. You can run the unit in your camper it is barely going to run. It is just going to be doing what a dehumidifier does.

[@Zomby_Woof]

@@gg-gn3re Yes, I mentioned all that in my original question. In the end, I'm sticking with the standard element water heater. I don't see where the heat pump types does anything to justify its cost.

[@jovannyjimenez7266]

Do you recommend outside installation with an enclosure California Energy Standards Climate zone 14?

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

Hi Jovanny - we asked our expert and this was his response: "California Energy standards should be referenced locally as every jurisdiction has its own guidelines. Typically a water heater should be protected, if installed outside it can be in an enclosure. I know they make water heater sheds for California but with a heat pump, it would still require the same air space for the heat pump water heater. If the enclosure is smaller than the manufacturer required (by Sq Ft) you should install louvers and or ducting." - I hope this helps!

[@dannyz8723]

No check calve, no thermal expansion tank?

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

Only if the water heater is part of a closed system, which is created when there is a check valve in the incoming water supply that prevents the expansion of heated water from flowing back into the water main. That is not the case with the water heater we installed here.

[@kimourchi7382]

Why the cold line needs insulation?

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

It is less necessary - however cold lines can be condensation points. The way that water beads up on a cold glass on a warm day, your cold pipes can do the same thing which is not ideal.

[@HeisenStark13]

No vacuum relief valve?

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

Great question! We asked the expert and this was his response: "We only need to use an anti-siphen/ vacuum relief valve if the water heater is above all the plumbing in the home. Such as an attic. It is used to prevent siphoning of the water heater if the water heater was no longer being fed water, water pressure dropped and or a hydrant outside was opened for fire purposes."

[@HeisenStark13]

@@CommunityEnergyProject thank you for the response!

[@slotkingdream]

I just installed mine this thing is pissing me off. It's telling me there's no gen five heat pump shut off and there is a shut off on the water heater.... It's the same ball stop you have installed in this video

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

oh no! I reached out to GNW Installations, and he said you may be able to solve this issue by trouble-shooting your alarm code. Go to page 26 of your user manual for full instructions. Go to "troubleshooting alarm codes" and follow the steps.

[@roshi98]

Noticed no expansion tank was added to this installation. Is this dwelling part of an open water system?

[@geofffey5908]

Great question, Aaron. I posed this question to our plumber. He replied: "We test for open and closed systems. If the incoming water line test open we do not install an expansion tank. If the incoming water line tests closed we will install an expansion tank." In this instance it was an open water system.

[@TheNWSCOTT]

That thing is loud forget that in the attic in the south no way !!!!!

[@Hibsch]

49 dBa rated Sound Level per Rheem stat sheet

[@adamp6504]

Where's the heat trap? Instructions specifically asks for one on the cold water supply

[@CommunityEnergyProject]

Hi Adam - Most all water heaters come with pre-installed heat trap nipples for both the hot and cold connection points. This can look different pending the installation in most cases - you'll have to look at the specific manufacturer's instructions.

[@denniss1211]

I can read so don't repeat the tools needed.

[@Hibsch]

You can’t read until you get the manual from the box containing the unit. Some folks like to plan ahead, even ahead of a purchase.

[@Mike-qk9ys]

Way too many words. Just change the thing out.