You're welcome. Good luck with your repair. Thanks for watching!

There are several reasons. For one, if I only use my compact tractor's loader bucket to clear snow, I have to be the one to always do it. I'm trying to get my son to help out by doing the snow blowing. He's not ready to operate the tractor yet. That right there is reason enough! But, if you ever get the opportunity to clear snow with a tractor loader bucket, you'll understand why it's not the best way to do it. A snow blower throws the snow out of the way. A snow plow pushes the snow aside. A loader bucket just pushes it into a pile in front of the tractor and it spills over both sides as you go, making a big mess behind you. I've tried it, and it's very inefficient check this out! kzbin.info/www/bejne/gX7Lqmp8bLOmmpo Thank you watching and commenting!

@@manabouthome Thanks for your explanation. Fully understand your points. I have a 4.5-acre piece of property that I've owned for the last 22 years. The previous property owner sold me his Sears Lawn Tractor and all attachments (snow blower, 44-inch mower deck, garden trailer and fertilizer drop box) for the grand sum of $400. My kids are grown and out on their own now, but I do remember enticing both of them into mowing during those adolescent, early teen years before they could legally drive. The newness of driving the tractor quickly eroded over time and all interest in mowing evaporated once they had their driver's license. Thanks again for your explanation.

My kid enjoys mowing the lawn on the Craftsman tractor. He puts his ear buds in and listens to whatever he's into that day, and enjoys the ride. Take care.

I always check rockauto first - rockauto.com But here are the bolts for my car. They probably ave them for whatever car you have. www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2009,outback,2.5l+h4,1443529,exhaust+&+emission,bolt+/+spring,10741 Or you might find them on Amazon amzn.to/4eFxv4T Thanks for watching!

If the sealing surface is damaged, it might leak.

@@manabouthomeprolly would have to be some deep scratches.

Yep. Maybe try softening the gasket material with brake clean or similar. Let it soak in.

You're welcome! Thank you for watching!

Failure is not an option! I know what I'm doing. Thank you for watching!

I'm happy to hear it helps! Thank you for watching and your great comments!

Yep. The diesel engine in this Ford 1710 was manufactured by Shibaura. It's also 4 wheel drive. I've found it to be a great little tractor. But It's marginally powerful enough to drive the 72" finish mower. It works ok. But a little more power would be better. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thank you! And you're welcome. I was hoping that would be helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thank you for your thoughtful comments. Parents need to remember they're role models and teachers, first. If this repair had cost any money, he would have had the consequence of paying for that as well. Thank you for watching!

I wanted to do the same thing. But there are NO identifying markings on that coil at all. I found similar looking, but different dimension coils, for gas dryers. I looked around the internet to try to find the coil. No such luck. Please let me know if you find it! Thank you for watching!

@@manabouthome will let you know what I find!

That's cool. I wish this one had the 5.8L. I've been thinking about possibly spicing the 5.0L up a bit. Or maybe finding a 5.8 for it. Thanks for watching!

I added some sand at first. But compost mainly. Thank you for watching and commenting.

I'm happy this helped! My tank hasn't failed yet. At some point they all do. Here's to your long lived water heater tank! Thank you for watching and commenting!

You're welcome. I'm happy to hear it helps. Thank you for watching and commenting!

Happy to hear it! Thanks for watching!

@@treepop1550 Thank you for watching and commenting!

I'm glad to hear it! Thank you for watching!

@@GerryVillalobos I've tried adjusting the handles and any position they're in has drawbacks. If they're up high it makes it more difficult to turn around at the end of each row. And in this hard soil having them lower makes it easier to apply down pressure. Which is very necessary to make the tines dig deeper. No matter what, there's no saving my back with this machine. ThanK you for watching and commenting.

Thank you. And thanks for watching and commenting!

Thank you! Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thank you for the suggestion. If I get another opportunity to do this repair, I'll give it a try, just to see. But, I think that might make it too slippery to get a firm grip. And every time I decreased pressure to readjust my hand position, it would have slipped back off. Thank you for watching and commenting!

It looks funny at first. But these Siemens main lug panels are described as convertible (to Main Breaker), and INVERTIBLE (they can be used "upside down", according to the manufacturer). They're a great copper bus panel. Thank you for watching and commenting! As seen in the video: PN Series 125 Amp 20-Space 20-Circuit Main Lug Plug-On Neutral Load Center Indoor with Copper Bus amzn.to/3zvtiBs

Thanks... and thanks for watching!

Thank you. I'm glad it helped. Thank you for watching and commenting!

Thank you for watching!

You're welcome. Thank you for watching and commenting!

@@guven1001 Thank you very much. There are some good conversations in the comments regarding possible improvements. Thanks for watching and commenting!

@marcodevries4481 The front of the trailer isn't exposed. It's in the slip stream close to the back of the tow vehicle. It's similar to how NASCAR drivers draft behind each other. When one car is close to the back of the other they both go faster because there's less wind resistance. When the ramp gate is straight up, it literally puts an up force on the front of the trailer causing it to rattle and clunk as it tries to pull up off the ball hitch. (Empty trailer.) There's a lot of drag created by that ramp gate. You don't imagine that tight open mesh is aerodynamic do you? It isn't! Thank you for watching and commenting. You might be surprised. When I remove the roof rack cross bars on the Subaru, my MPG increases by more than 1 MPG. Every little bit of drag causes efficiency loses. I can feel a significant difference if I'm pulling the trailer with the ramp gate up vs. down as I said in the video. It's probably not as noticeable with a 8 cylinder truck vs. a 4 banger car.

Sounds like a cool car! I always check rockauto.com first, to look up part numbers. Maybe this will help (?) - www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1976,torino,5.8l+351cid+v8,1141535,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836 Good luck with it. Thank you for watching and commenting!

Oof. As if Chevys don't have the same problems! And rust out twice as fast. Thank you for watching.

Thank you and you're welcome! One warning - It appears I got off easy with removing my bearing hubs, partially due to the fact that my backing plates were rotted out and needed to be replaced. Being able to easily remove the rusted out backer plate, made it easy for me to get a pry bar in behind the bearing hubs and pry them out. There's a lot of videos on here that show how much trouble many people have removing those rusted in bearing hubs. One of the best ones I've seen shows how to use an old (to be replaced) brake rotor to help with that. Flip it over and bolt it to the hub. That gives you something to beat on or pry on if needed. One man even put a 24" pipe wrench on the top of the rotor and hit it with a sledge hammer! I recently had to replace another front bearing hub. We flipped the rotor and screwed 3 lug nuts onto it, leaving lots of uncovered threads. Then we (my son & I) used the rotor almost like a slide hammer, pulling it to slam against the lug nuts. Since the hub had previously been coated with never seize, it came right out. Thank you watching and commenting, and good luck with your repair!

By the way. I'll be publishing a video about that front hub replacement soon...

Thank you. In a situation like this, I always try heat first, without penetrating oil. Oil turns to smoke, and sometimes flame when it's torched. I prefer to avoid that, if possible. Propane works fine in many cases. When I need more heat, I use my oxy-acetylene torch. Since I have that, I don't need mapp. Thank you for watching and commenting.

Maybe they do. I set mine up to turn on/off when the furnace blower turns on/off. Check out my duct booster play list to see how I did it. It's been working good for 3 years now. Thank you for watching!

What? Thanks for watching!

Yep. That's one way to do it. I have it so it turns on when the furnace blower runs. Check out my videos about that. Thank you for watching and commenting!

You're welcome! Yeah, the cost of these things is sky high now. Thanks for the helpful part number info. And thank you for watching!

I'm happy to hear it. Thank you for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Good luck with it. There's a guy in Buffalo selling new scratch and dent units on Marketplace, if that happens to help. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching and commenting!

Thank you for watching!

I'm happy to hear! Thank you for watching!

What do you mean by crap? It's pressure treated, so it's very decay resistant. And I'm loading it with manure and compost. So, literally crap. I don't care how it looks. I guess it depends what you're using it for. If you're not using it for loose materials, you probably don't need it. If you need it to be pretty... well, what do people do with nice wood? Seal it/finish it/protect it. I leave it outside all Summer. It spends Winter inside my barn. It's two years old now and looks ok. It'll last a good long time. Thanks for watching.

@@ricklusby2548 You're welcome! I'm happy to hear it. Thank you for watching and commenting!

I haven't done any of the installation on my 18kPV yet, though I do have it and I'm putting my plans together. I'm planning to eliminate the Generac Automatic Transfer Switch. The 18kPV will start the Generator via its internal relay, when it senses the grid is down and the batteries are below 20% state of charge. The relay will switch OFF the 240Vac grid sensing signal, which will be derived from the critical loads panel. (Those two smaller wires on 5 amp fuses in the ATS.) In other words, the 18kPV will control the generator, instead of the ATS. At least, this is what I'm thinking at this point. The Generator WILL be connected to the 18kPV generator input terminals. The generator outputs on a 60Amp circuit. That's how the batteries will get recharged when the grid is down. It's possible the batteries could be maintained by PV. In that case they won't drop below 20% during the grid down period. When the grid comes back on, the 18kPV senses it and turns the generator off. (Probably at a preset SOC.) I'm planning on using a 100Amp critical loads sub-panel, which will get its power from the Load terminals on the inverter. 99% of my house power will be taken from that sub-panel. Currently, all those loads are served by the Generac Transfer Panel, which is supplied by a 70Amp breaker in the Main panel. That's what runs the house. Thanks for watching and commenting!

@@manabouthome​​⁠gotcha so you are basically just using the control wires from the ATS but basically just getting rid of the ATS and moving all those circuits to a new critical loads panel. I’m not sure which generac you have but for some models, generac sells a two wire start kit. You still need to provide power for maintaining a battery which I believe you’re just planning to use what you have now and also double duty it as the starter feature. I didn’t see 18kpv have an exercise option like the sol ark has so you may need to manually exercise it or come up with some timer for it. Eventually I would think EG4 would add that feature through a firmware update. Where did you purchase your 18kpv from?

@@godelrt I got it from Signature Solar. The 240Vac ATS signal for the generator start function, also provides power to maintain the 12V battery. I'll have to look into that two wire start kit you mentioned, to see if it has functions I can use. The exercise mode is controlled in my Generac Generator. It starts and runs independently of the transfer switch. I'm not sure if I need the 18kPV to operate exercise mode. But I don't think so. A timer is another interesting idea, but I'm hoping I don't need to do anything extra.

I've never looked at it from that perspective. Sorry, I don't have an answer for that. Thank you for watching.

Those are dust shields / brake backer plates. They protect the brake rotor (somewhat) from road dust, water, etc. Thanks for watching!

No. I don't have time. Maybe someday. Thanks for watching!

You're welcome! I'm happy it helped.