Similar dash structure so I would say the likely hood is high.

I have a bunch of videos that go into the details of every element of this project in my uploaded content. Be sure to go check them out for the ingredients!

I’m glad it was able to help you out and good luck on your project!

They turned out good enough that I didn’t need to cut and buff them. That said, other things I have had to do it, it all depends on paint climate and temperature.

@@Foxcraze yeah that makes sense. I haven’t buffed any yet either but I have seen other KZbinrs sand and buff after clear. Mine has help up good in this summer and mine are mirror cap covers.

@moparrdudee87 I cleared the mirror caps for the Q50 as well and didn’t need to cut and buff those either. Been solid since 2019. Some people just don’t prep stuff well.

Thank you!

Thank you bro I appreciate that! I publish new videos every couple weeks.

@@Foxcraze tuned in man

See Description..

Hey man, is that a question or a fact? If a fact How did you come to that conclusion bro?

@@Foxcraze it was just a joke. No offense meant. Nice job on your sub box, came out great

@machielvandertoorn8758 lol nah man no offense taken, I didn’t tune it. I set the amp settings to manufacture recommendations and left it at that. It sounded good to the ear so I didn’t do anything further.

Well damn that’s a good bit of assistance when laid out that way haha

Thank you I really appreciate that! In regard to the staples, I wouldn’t have stapled the fleece into the sub ring. It put way too much much material into the area where the sub would go and I had to grind and cut all that shit out to get it to fit again. haha

@@Foxcraze Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated!

I’m glad it was all able to work out!

No, my A-Spec definitely didn’t have power folding mirrors. Aside from there being a motor and gearing in the lower arm, the plastics being removed should be fairly similar. If there are any major differences, be sure to message back and let us know so anybody in the future can search through the comments and find your information.

@@Foxcraze thanks for the response. I’ve got the new pieces. I’ll make the attempt to swap out in next week or so. I’ll update once I get it done. Mine isn’t broken, just a large scratch on the red plastic cover.

Update on those with power folding mirrors. Few differences. There is a small plastic cover that comes off the underside of the mirror to reveal 3 screws on the folding gear. The one closest to the door is tough to get off with very little room to get a ratcheting Phillips head in there. (You may want to put tape on the body to prevent scratching your paint.) Once these 3 are off you can lift the mirror up to get the other screw shown in your video that is underneath and continue as you did. 👍

@kevinmacdougall9682 that’s what’s up, thank you for the update!

Oh yeah man for sure. Blacking out the chrome completely changes the look of a car to me.

It was an idea I had until I realized the cost to ship something like this and the likelihood of so one paying it being slim haha

Thank you, I have longer in depth videos covering each step of the project in my video library.

@@Foxcraze good to know, I recently bought a custom enclosure for my is300 (2002) but I am struggling to find a good place to mount my amp. That led me to your video, even though it’s about building a subwoofer enclosure I thought maybe I could take the info and customize it to build a custom amp rack. I want to mount my amp to the side like you did your sub. I just have to figure out a way to add a fan in as well so my amp doesn’t overheat being stuffed in a somewhat sealed space.

I appreciate it!

Like an absolute champ, zero movement whatsoever!

Hell yeah, good to know about the Kevlar appreciate it!

If I were to try engine bay parts again, I would probably use MAX HTE. It has good reviews in regard to high heat applications.

Thank you, I have a four-part video series on the actual build of the box that details all of the items needed to make your own. You will need to look back in my videos to find them however because they are from about four years ago.

Yeah once you remove the trim pieces the chrome inserts will pop out but it would have to be done with the panels removed.

@@Foxcraze Thanks!

I appreciate it!

I’m working on a better version right now so stay tuned!

This is a good next step for sure, it did for me.

Right so my car is not lowered at all. It is the all-wheel-drive model and I think a little bit higher than a rear wheel drive is. The side skirts and front lip do not physically lower the body in any way shape or form. However, the reason it looks lower is because it eliminates that under curve that the front and sides naturally have on the car and makes flare out more from the door itself. I have videos on the diy prep and painting of those skirts if you go back in the video section far enough.

Oh yeah, if you’re gonna do it, might as well do it right the first time! Good luck, add me on insta and show me how it turns out.

No problem at all. I’m just glad I was able to help.

The very corners of the shroud were overlapping the grille. I removed them as a precaution so the shroud lifted enough to clear the top corners of the black shell and not cause it to misalign while installing.

I sure did, and they have held all these years perfectly.

@@Foxcraze did you use any hardware underneath?

@douglasa2642 yeah boss, I bought longer push pins and replaced the pins that held the stock skirt up so it fits through both layers of plastic.

It should be fairly close seeing as how Infiniti/Nissan don’t like to change stuff up.

@@Foxcraze ok thanks

Not perfectly but it’s estimated to be somewhere between .90 and 1 Cuft.

So with ABS you won’t have to worry about it rusting specifically. To prevent the hardware you use to install it from rusting, buy stainless steel hardware. ABS won’t crack on its own so make sure you don’t over tighten the bolts when installing and try to not hit it with anything heavy and you should be fine. If it’s a trunk spoiler you might be able to install it with 3m tape and be good to go depending on what type of spoiler it is.

@@Foxcrazeokay, that makes sense.. thank you so much for your help!

@@Foxcrazeback again🤪🤦🏼‍♀️ for the sun exposure.. could i get krylon UV resistant spray paint to put on before the primer+black spray paint? and i would sand it first, correct?

@fitness.hanna.579 ahh so if your painting them you would first scuff it till its dull in appearance and clean it well. Primer, color coat, then for UV protection finish it off with 3-4 coats of Spraymax 2k clear coat. They sell it on Amazon and it comes in a can. It’s exactly what I used. The UV protection will always go on last to protect the paint.

If I were to try engine bay parts again, I would probably use MAX HTE. It has good reviews in regard to high heat applications.

@@Foxcraze noted. Thank you boss

No problem!

Thank you! So these cans are extremely effective but I would not try running passes across the entire vehicle like you would a spray gun. These cans don’t have enough pressure to maintain that length of pass for that long and not cause the paint to randomly spit. These cans are best used panel by panel and is achievable just takes a bit longer.

You are correct, it will not come off at all if the reflector isn’t broken. the entire front of the mirror housing top (blue) and bottom(black) have to come off as one piece before being able to remove the top (blue) piece from the reflector housing.

I really appreciate the positivity!