jason puttock

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@AndyVincent-x8l 10 күн бұрын

Could you show me exactly where the three yellow wires go the red and white wire the black wire and the white wire on that regulator please

@jasonputtock4428 10 күн бұрын

Sorry I no longer have the bike.

@t8283287 17 күн бұрын

Your crank seal is on wrong way round..spring should face towards oil....not crankcase

@jasonputtock4428 17 күн бұрын

Yes I know and for a good reason which you did not understand. "EDIT": The purpose for those that did not listen and understand. Is thus. When your oil seal becomes corrupted and you end up losing oil ALOT!. To stop this, you can Force and oversixe ORING into this groove in order to PUSH out the remaining seal further where the spring CANNOT get to. Thus meaning you can close the gap more for a short While till you can get a replacement. This will allow you to drive upto a max of 50 miles to get home and retire the bike in a SAFE MANOR! Till you can fix it correctly. This is a safety feature. These plastic rubbish seals are NOT ETERNAL.!

@JoseRamon-ey2tw Ай бұрын

Que hable en español porque no lo entiendo

@jasonputtock4428 Ай бұрын

Qué es lo que querías saber?

@bryanhamby6287 2 ай бұрын

So your saying that you were neglecting to change your oil properly?

@jasonputtock4428 2 ай бұрын

nope. not me... I am saying this will be part of the service which noone does.

@ethans6560 3 ай бұрын

is that screw for air or fuel?

@markjohnson8162 4 ай бұрын

Is this a good reading ?

@jasonputtock4428 4 ай бұрын

Just showing you what you can expect for readings. Must be tested both ways. This unit was repaired as the wires were cut/damaged. I repaired it and this was the reading i aquired. Yes the unit worked just fine.

@cbrider726 6 ай бұрын

I got my bik cheap.I only paid 1800 euro about £1300. The bike does a rattle so i am going to have ago at this job next week . It looked a little scary but you have helped so much. I might just change the chain at the same time a restart if you know what i mead. Happy new year bang on bro 👍👍👍👍My bike has 54000 ks on it so i bet its never been looked at .

@jasonputtock4428 6 ай бұрын

I would Advice strongly not to do the chain unless it is required. There is a small Oring that is no discontinued. It part of the oil system and if the oring is damaged you might not be able to replace the oring if damaged. I think its part of the oil PICKUP tube area. IRC.

@cbrider726 6 ай бұрын

Where did you get your tappet adjuster . Thanks. 👍👍👍

@jasonputtock4428 6 ай бұрын

Honda directly.

@cbrider726 6 ай бұрын

Could you use an unltra sonic cleaner on this . Would it cause any damage. I have this problem with my 1000F ??????

@jasonputtock4428 6 ай бұрын

Yes but removing all solvent from inside the piston chamber of the tensioner may prove to be a problem. Always best to use WD40 for sticking plungers and then use oil to load up the chamber then on after.

@cbrider726 6 ай бұрын

Theres a reason that Honda put auto adjusters on these things . Honda Knows best when it comes to there engines .

@user-xq6se9uc1g 9 ай бұрын

I did this and it was super clean, I also fitted a new cam chain and it still sounds like marbles in a tin can

@jasonputtock4428 9 ай бұрын

I assume you PREprimed the tensioner. Did you even change the tension guide bars.?

@blissmusicproductions4200 9 ай бұрын

The feeler gage is that metric?

@jasonputtock4428 9 ай бұрын

Yes metric. 0.05 0.10 0.15 and so on

@Cchavez037 11 ай бұрын

Whats the long black thing in the middle of the carbs idler screw?

@jasonputtock4428 11 ай бұрын

Idle adjuster.

@jasonputtock4428 11 ай бұрын

what brings you to this video.?

@jimtoone1777 Жыл бұрын

And that's why the manual camchain tensioner conversion is utter rubbish and a shirt term fix for long term expensive layout when it fails. The cbx style conversion with a spring is always the way to go and my preferred mod that never fails. Manual tensioner does not allow for back-lash but the spring conversion does.

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

indeed you are correct. It is why i repaired the bike without the manual tensioner. Just cleaned out the original tensioner and reinstalled it. That bike is still going strong today.

@alfredrose8065 Жыл бұрын

Love this video :-D. Need views? Check P R O M O S M!!!

@brexithope9084 Жыл бұрын

It would seem that the cylinders could have had some additional work done on it. I gather you are strapped for cash, hence no added work. Shame. I can see the machine profiling and that looks to be the original machine work from Mercedes itself. Not often is this straight but I can see the borehole markers are in good nick. So you should be good to go. Keep up the work, though I think certain methods you have taken is not strictly acceptable but if needs must, then you have no other option.

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

You are very right about your comments. Not much i can defend against. I trust this will all work out just fine. Yes cash is a major problem. Now Im broke. Ughh. Should have scraped it and bought a cheap W210 or a corsa, even maybe an Omega. Who knows, I just might. Just not yet.

@brexithope9084 Жыл бұрын

Thank you for video. Now I have an idea how to get to certain parts and where to repair. I have black death and working out if I can or CANNOT do this solo.

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

Yes you can do this. Courage needed mostly.

@brexithope9084 Жыл бұрын

What on earth happened.?

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

You will have to go back in my videos from about a month ago or more. The injector 2 seal failed. Removed the bolt and that snapped. The injector came out just fine. You seriously have to go backward in videos to find out more. From a simply broken bolt converted very quickly into 9, I think broke items on the head. Here is the first of the troubling issues. kzbin.info/www/bejne/in_OamqLbZ6Wors Started in Early November.

@brexithope9084 Жыл бұрын

@@jasonputtock4428 That sucks. I can't comment on that video. So, let me guess. You removed the engine and realized that too much dirt was in the way. Figured that you had major leaks down the side of the engine. Cleaned it up and then thought. What the hell, replaced all seals because it's an old van. If this is correct, then I support what you are doing. So annoying that the videos are constructed this way. Well, chin up and soldier on. You are almost complete.

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

@@brexithope9084 Yes, yes, and yes. The videos are somewhat incomplete. I am sorry. I much rather show what steps I take, when I do it, and why. Nothing worse than magic video editing over a course of 1 week or 2 melded into 1. Yes, it's definitely nicer to watch but I am trying to give the real human factor of delays - mistakes and true waiting times. Besides I like bite-size pieces for a more angle approach and planning. Thank you ever so kindly.

@brexithope9084 Жыл бұрын

Yes, you are correct. Do not send the engine until you grab that chain link joiner. I feel your pain when you have to wait. good luck.

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

Thanks bud. I will need it. My main concern is the head gasket - well the non-plain head and the fuel pump. Other than that, should be ok.

@thegoldmine7520 Жыл бұрын

Hi mate watched your zzr vid could do with some advice with zzr carb if you can help

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

such as.?

@thegoldmine7520 Жыл бұрын

@@jasonputtock4428 has a fuel leak and I've never took one apart before is it something to attempt myself

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

@@thegoldmine7520 This will be the only way. Look for the pipe that runs to the carbs. Think of possible ways that this will cause a fuel spillage. If such a task happens, then siphon out the fuel into another catch can of sorts. Do not be tempted to place an inline fuel filter. Especially plastic. The ethanol will corrupt the fuel filter if made from plastic and will cause major issues after about 500 miles. I made this mistake and cost me dearly in costs. I found the issue after the recovery and local garage could not fix it. This is how I ended up doing some videos on this bike.

@thegoldmine7520 Жыл бұрын

Were are you based are you local to Birmingham if can help me sort would be very grateful chuck you some money for time

@thegoldmine7520 Жыл бұрын

Pretty sure my fuel leak is from float bowls but havent took carb off bike yet

@powerofone1645 Жыл бұрын

Fuel bowl float valve's rubber seals are perished. Replace them. watch video by chanel called: TBKHomeworld Helped me recently with similar prob. Have fun. ps Best not to put water in them. But watch the fumes.

@christiananderson131 Жыл бұрын

Many thanks for the info, got a 91 zzr and rebuilt the carbs and bike wont start. but book said to turn mixture screws out 1.5 turns so gonna try 3 turns and try again.

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

oh hell yes do it 3 turns. I did exactly what you did at 1.5 turns and it was so annoying. This should get your bike running once again. Be very sure your sparks are good and reliable. This is another hidden factor this bike. DO NOT use an INLINE filter made out of plastic.

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

alternatively, you could turn it out 1/8th turn to 3 turn out. This way you can see if the bike starts gradually. If it does you are on the right path. Never WOT the bike when doing this. The bike will run LEAN at first till it blips fine.

@christiananderson131 Жыл бұрын

No plastic inline filter what is an alternative then

@christiananderson131 Жыл бұрын

@@jasonputtock4428 Hi again got it running like you said 1 issue i do have is that number 2 carb slider not moving ,diaphram looks good any other ideas. i have replaced the standard screws with Allen bolts as the originals were shot. many thanks Christian

@wesleyzonneveld8696 Жыл бұрын

Slecht, je ziet niet waar die zit, je ziet niet wa die doet, alles is vanaf 3 cm afstand gefilmd

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

Mijn excuses. Mijn bedoeling was om te laten zien waar en hoe ik toegang had tot de starter. Om een idee te krijgen van toegang tot de bouten en welk type. Het werk eromheen is aan jou. Dit was mijn enige optie om gin toegang te krijgen tot het onderdeel. Ik zag dat ik de motor opnieuw moest installeren.

@Gennadui777 2 жыл бұрын

Приветствую! Скажите, так в чём проблема данной неисправности? Не держит запорная игла поплавковой камеры, или большой уровень топлива в ней.

@jasonputtock4428 2 жыл бұрын

в этом конкретном видео. Это был резиновый клапан, который был проблемой. Он соединяется с поплавковым клапаном в камере.

@Gennadui777 2 жыл бұрын

@@jasonputtock4428 Спасибо! Я предполагал такую версию.

@voicelatz7738 2 жыл бұрын

ill try it on my vt250 spada

@DaMuShErZ 2 жыл бұрын

In the manual it actually tells you to take the tensioner off and fill the bucket of fresh oil as a test to see if the plunger is healthy. If it is then it will essentially hydrolock when atempting to move fast which by the sounds of it is how yours was when you took it out. People fail to read on after this where it says to drain the oil out before reinstall. Filling with oil is purely a test for the health of the tensioner itself by the sounds of it bur should be fitted and left dry

@jasonputtock4428 2 жыл бұрын

My tensioner was stuck not hydro locked, it required Petrol to disolve the old gum of oil and WD40 to remove unwanted moisture. Yes I am aware of that statement like many other claimed motor mechanic books. First you have to empty the chamber to clean it out, it not part of a test. It is to clean it of old oil which is NOT part of the annual service, furthermore the chamber cannot self replenish the old oil by draining itself. This is what you have failed to mention like many garages also fail to do. Hence why their are many failures of these parts. Regular maintenance will cure the rattle. On major exceptions will the chain need to be replaced along with the guides. Since I have had the engine apart, I only replaced the Chain. The rattle disappeared. Cleaned both units, tested for full extension. Inserted all back together dry and pre-charged the piston chamber right before i started the engine. The end result was fantastic, a very responsive engine with new piston rings - rehoned bores - new chain - recycled tensioner (Cleaned). You do NOT leave it dry and start the bike, this is NOT recommended. Why, because it will cause unnecessary wear to the piston chamber. When the tensioner is in place and secured with THREAD lock medium strength. You flex the piston chamber by hand where access allows, whilst filling the piston chamber with the same grade oil. It will stiffen up as normal and tension perfectly. Then you can start the bike. Other wise you will get chain slap inside the engine because it is NOT tensioned correctly. I like metal where it is supposed to be and not in the bottom of the engine. I thank you very kindly for pointing out some good facts thank you. Just know that the garage DO NOT practice this method, I was merely explaining what to look for during the video.

@DaMuShErZ 2 жыл бұрын

@@jasonputtock4428 I appreciate the detailed explanation, best I've heard so far haha i am no trained mechanic myself but have done plenty diy work on my bikes. I have a 91 fm too which has just recently started rattling when cold but then does dissappear after a few minutes of riding. Hence what brings me to your video as I've been doing as much research as possible before i start the dismantling. Its done 36k miles so you reckon just a good thorough clean of the tensioner and recharge as you say whilst ignoring the manual to some degree will sort this? Reading it from haynes manual it did seem slightly odd to me to not fill the bucket with oil because you essentially have what is a spring and damper to maintain tension and reduce bounce back or slap. May have to give that a go then thank you very much 👍. May of just saved me £80 on a new chain 🤣.

@jasonputtock4428 2 жыл бұрын

@@DaMuShErZ Ah now I understand where you are coming from. 36k miles/KMs would suggest that the tensioner needs a service. Should you even put this lovely bike into HONDA, they would never take it out. Main reason - Should they drop the bolt into the engine, it is almost impossible to extract it out should this happen. It would require paitents and a strong magne to pick it up should it wedge itself if dropped. It is easily done. No you dont need to change the chain. Most cars like BMW MERCEDES AND i do believe AUDI use chain drive systems. Reading their information about services on a chain is normally around the 120k mark upto 200k mark and in some case never. Yes the guides can become damaged but mostly is the arm sticking in one place. The chamber itself does not self clean, self lubricate if its full of old OIL. Removing the tensioner is the best option. Through cleaning of it and inserting it dry is the way to go. Only, you MSUT pre prime the chamber AFTER installation. Keepflexing it until it becomes stiff or heavy resistance. Once that is achieved seal it up. I CANNOT stress enough the IMPORTANCE to use LockThread medium strength. NOT PERMENANT. If 1 of those 4 bolts unwind you are FUBAR. This WILL SNAP your chain, lock up the rear wheel if you are luck enough. If you are unlucky the pistons will hit your valves. This bike was very lucky to lock up on the rear wheel. Only damage was that bolt and the chain replacement. It was shear luck that the valves had opened to a certain amount to miss collision with the pistons. In overal context. remove tensioner and clean it then use WD40 to ensure mositure removal, empty it out and reinsert to the bike, bolt down, then drop some oil into the chamber hole and prime it. Good luck and becareful...

@jasonputtock4428 2 жыл бұрын

@@DaMuShErZ I want to advise you now before its too late. Please overhaul your carbs system and fuel lines. Anything rubber delivering your fuel system. Why you may ask. Well, the governments GLOBALLY are now changing the fuels itself with regards to Unleaded. They are increasing the ethanol amount. instead of it being E5 based. They are set to increase it to E10. You fuel float needle rubber may suffer for this. Also, you have added a INLINE fuel filter. Make sure it is metal and not PLASTIC. E5- E10 will corrupt the plastic and with will LOSE its shape. Experiment yourself with ethanol on plastic. The plastic gets hot and SOFT. Therefore, the fuel passing through plastic will become restricted due to ethoanol and plastic incompatability issues and MELT. Please consider overhauling your fuel system now before its too late. This new grade of fuel will affect all motorised transports prior to the age of 2002. In some rare case may go back as far as 1992. Rubber and plastic are not a good mix for E5-10 grade unleaded fuels. If you do decide to do this overhaul - ask the seller if they are rated for E10 grade fuel.

@DaMuShErZ 2 жыл бұрын

@@jasonputtock4428 Thank you very much mate will be sure to give that a go and see the outcome 🤞. Its overdue a valve clearance check anyway so i'll do it all in its next service. I approached Honda a couple years back for some work and they actually refused the work 🤣, said they don't feel comfortable working on such an old bike aha i said thats fine with me if you don't feel confident then i don't feel comfortable leaving it in your hands aha its good of them in a way to be honest and turn down the work though but yeah i do all work on the bikes now besides when fresh tyres are needed. With regards the recent fuel changes its only ever been ran on super unleaded all its life which is E5 usually 99 octane and thats still available at most garages by the side of the e10 shite so I'm safe for now but i do appreciate the heads up though and if for some reason they scrap the e5 all together which i doubt they'll do i'll definitely be making the changes you suggest before its ridden again. Going back to the timing chain rattle, would it not be an instant rattle when the bike is fired up and continuous for the whole time its running? See mine when i start it is smooth, quiet and responsive etc and i'll then ride for a couple minutes then the rattle begins then only last for about 2 minutes before it fades away back to quiet normal running. Just thinking maybe there's a possibility its something else 🤔. Hard to tell while riding especially with all the fairing on

@Clearanceman2 2 жыл бұрын

I've been trying to avoid doing all this. I got a stage one jet kit and I think I'll wait until mid winter.

@jamesmarze9850 3 жыл бұрын

Great information thank you

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

Very welcome

@geraldguiver9732 3 жыл бұрын

@trianedtog0417 3 жыл бұрын

Good day Jason have you still got this rs125 it's nearly brand new

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

its in the UK. The project was off loaded to someone else. to this day the bike remain as it is. They never bothered to finish what I had already started. So now, probably rusted bearings...

@shanekavanagh4592 3 жыл бұрын

Hi, great videos, learnt a lot as i have watched all your Aprilia RS125 rebuild videos. I am rebuilding one of these myself, i couldn't get hold of a rotax 122 motor so ive bought it piece by piece, crank casings, crank, gearbox etc. Problem im having is each piece i buy is from ebay and used and so doesnt come with any of the little nuts, bolts, washers or anything and am struggling to get hold of any of this, i was wondering if you have any ideas? Thanks in advance and keep up the good work!

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

i would have advised you to look around for complete refurb engines. You can try wemoto rs125, phone them. or try this company mmgracingstore.com/en/44-aprilia-rs125-99-05. or Fakebook ughh. facebook.com/Aprilia-RS125-Parts-942024049187251/?__xts__[0]=68.ARBTRVPCzygy4Jp

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

rgvspares.com.au/shop/aprilia/rs125

@shanekavanagh4592 3 жыл бұрын

@@jasonputtock4428 thanks mate, legend!

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

@@shanekavanagh4592 btw. I strongly urge you to buy an impact driver. Hand held item that requires a hammer to impact the driver to release seized screws or nuts. This is a must. Stripping the heads of scrwes is your worst nightmare, trust me. something like this. www.heamar.co.uk/spanners-wrenches/65859-bahco-7823-impact-driver-with-23-bit-assortment-7314150218141.html

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

@@shanekavanagh4592 the end is detachable and can be used with a 1/2 socket i believe. Helps wonders in many other projects. It is a gods end. my first go too tool when i think a nut or screw is seized and need to get it off or out.

@TG562 3 жыл бұрын

when did tommy shelby start making bike repair vids? you sound exactly like him

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

no idea what you are talking about lol. Maybe link a video of his.

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

besides i do cars vans tractor diggers and bike.

@TG562 3 жыл бұрын

@@jasonputtock4428 hes from the TV series peaky blinders. Anyway many thanks for the videos, very helpful

@jasonputtock4428 2 жыл бұрын

@@TG562 love it thank you. Yes I can hear it. weird that. thanks for the comment.

@raymondcollinson8833 3 жыл бұрын

@bennyn88 3 жыл бұрын

Hey Jason, sounds good. Would you be kind enough to tell me what kit or parts you used for the aftermarket air intake? If you can send a photo to [email protected]

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

uploading a very short video. 60-> 75 MM adapter based cone is used. Airbox has been removed. Only for 1 reason, Getting to certain parts of the engine requires the airbox to be removed. So removed it for good.

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWKTc6dqqMSJhqs

@katywalker8322 3 жыл бұрын

You should slacken off the cable at the lever first. This way it shouldn’t affect the adjustment at the clutch. Loosen off at the clutch centre. Then tighten until it bottoms out, then back out 1/2~3/4 of a turn. Tighten the lock nut. Then just adjust the cable free play at the lever. The adjuster at the casing adjusts the free play of the clutch itself. The adjuster at the lever adjusts the free play at the cable.

@trianedtog0417 3 жыл бұрын

Miss your videos still got this Jason

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

Sadly I moved the bike remained behind in the UK. I am due at some point to go and collect it.

@leon-fz4cd 3 жыл бұрын

float valve need adjustments !

@jasonputtock4428 2 жыл бұрын

sorry no. It would the float valves needle corrupted with the rubbers separating from the needle itself. Thus not shutting off the fuel supply internally.

@davidhood2046 3 жыл бұрын

thanks for this video VERY informative and helpfull

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

You are very welcome

@DynamicMusicTV 3 жыл бұрын

How did you make it sound like that

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

well i have a defective transducer/EGR/booster. It directly controls the Turbo actutator. It is over boosting and causing limp mode. Replaced it witha 2nd hand one now, again that is defective, I have less power than the model you're currently hearing. But to hear the turbo, Remove the air box and use a pod filter instead.

@DynamicMusicTV 3 жыл бұрын

@@jasonputtock4428 okay thanks, have you any ideas on how to do the fuel pump on these? Is it on the engine, or is it in the tank? Mine still runs but the pump needs replacing

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

@@DynamicMusicTV why do you need to replace the pump for. They are probably the best to survive on the van. Yes it is on the engine. One of my videos shows where it is. In the video I pull a blue cover off the engine and start talking about it. I cannot remember where it is or what video.

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

@@DynamicMusicTV sorry i cant be much more useful to you. However I can try and help diagnostics.

@DynamicMusicTV 3 жыл бұрын

@@jasonputtock4428 okay no worries thank you, and the garage said it needs a new pump. Because I had the problem where it would start and run fine the next minute it wouldn’t and so on and so forth, apparently the pump isn’t pumping fuel through fast enough, for it to start hence it takes a few goes to get it going, I think it’s all a load of shit but I’ve got a scrap Vito at the yard so I can take parts off, but don’t wanna waste my time takin it off if that isn’t the cause of the issue, I took it to the garage btw so they could diagnose it, but I don’t believe them, I can repair it myself but want some light shinin to what the issue is

@pabitrikalita3940 3 жыл бұрын

what is the weight of the crankshaft of Aprilia rs 125, please I need to know, please help me

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

i would not know. The bike is not in my possession anymore.

@fabienlorey317 3 жыл бұрын

en attendant, deux fois nous vous avons mis dehors ...........

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

Enjoy your NO fishing in the English Channel.. The Europeans are waiting for the time Johnson kicks you out... Love from Poland.

@fabienlorey317 3 жыл бұрын

Il faut arrêter de se lancer dans les vidéos, pour de la GROSSE MERDE

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

Enjoying your Macron leader.??

@krisbriks 3 жыл бұрын

Hey Jason, I know this is an old video and you might have allready have discovered that the Oil journal for the right exuast is infact the correct one. All though it dossent seems like it. The service manual says that the right left exaust is mark "R" and not "EX R" like the left one ("EX L"). On my owne bike the "IN" is simply just crossed out. Hope it make sense. Thx for some graet vids. :-)

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

yea I already knew this 1 weeks after the video.. thanks though.

@StickyManMaxxx 4 жыл бұрын

thx bro!

@jasonputtock4428 3 жыл бұрын

If you need the adjustment system video this i can do.

@ljgarrison6910 4 жыл бұрын

Nice vid dude! I have an issue; I have a ZZR600 E3 (UK version) @ 28,000mi Bike cut out during a sunny test ride having changed the plugs, bike occasionally ran on 3 cyl anyway upon start up sometimes, which was the initial reason for the plug change (one was blackened). One thing of note, the bike has cut out before while on tickover, and the reserve wouldn't work, despite enough fuel in the tank for normal lines. Jerry of fuel and she was right as rain, didn't misbehave until the old 3cyl shit again. It is worth mentioning the bike has only ever cut out twice, the two occasions I mentioned and frankly runs perfectly any other time. Bike cut out under hard acceleration with a full tank of fuel, it was a long push home and the bike cut out at speed. As soon as I pulled the clutch in, no engine cut out as it was being ran by the wheels at the time I think. Bike would not restart for love nor money. Tested pump - pulses with starter, clicks on and off as is normal (fill/empty bowls) with relay connected, appears to be in constant drive when relay disconnected. (It doesn't click) Both times it just pisses fuel everywhere but pulses with starter. Ignotion appears to be good. After disconnecting tank, checking lines, filling with petrol - the bike started up just fine, ticks over with no issues but i'm afraid to take it out for test ride, the thought of pushing it 2mi home over hills again in bike leathers during our "lockdown summer" makes me want to commit hari-kari. Recently I have checked/fitted: Small filters IN tank appear ok. Ignition coils seem okay. Petcock rebuild kit. New fuel lines. Carb jets checked. Fuel system cleaner ran through it. 'Bench' balanced carbs. Set screws at 2.5 turns. New fuel filter. New plugs. I'd be glad to get in touch if possible, this is doing my nut in as she is my only transport.

@jasonputtock4428 4 жыл бұрын

There is way too much to digest here. we need to break this down. First of and fore most. I read you placed an inline filter to the fuel system. Did i read this correctly. If it is PLASTIC in Nature. THROW it away NOW!. The Ethonol will corrupt the fuel filter HOSUING. What you cannot see is the Plastic will melt very very very very very slowly over time. The plastic will form its own new shape internally. Thus it will restrict and cut of fuel at the worst possible time. IE 2 miles from home. I should know, this happened to me. Bike ran perfetly doing over 100 at the time. Bike cuts out. Ignition good, plenty of fuel. Left the bike for 30 mins. ran fine for another 2 miles then again breakdown. Took it to a mechanic. He said it was carbs. Swapped out after a full rebuild. Took the bike home after £350 worth of work. Bike fails again 1 week later. I did my own checks. The inline fuel filter PLASTIC was blocking the fuel flow. Check all supply fuel lines. Either for small leaks when bike is running also check for breather pipes to the fuel tank. The tank must have a breather pipe somewhere. Blow into the pipe and listen to the fuel tank with fuel cap open. If easy blowing works, then breather pipe is okay. Report back please.

@jmajorel 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Jason, very good video, thnaks ! Then I don't need special tool for valve adjustment?

@jasonputtock4428 4 жыл бұрын

not really but helps more when holding the valve in the correct area when tightening. without tool. you need to remeasure gap and rotate engine to ensure the gap is consistant after adjustment

@jmajorel 4 жыл бұрын

@@jasonputtock4428 ah, perfect, thank you very much !

@joshwright3713 4 жыл бұрын

Where does that tiny outlet plug itno please ?

@trianedtog0417 3 жыл бұрын

On the carb nozzle

@SamsungGalaxy-rb5qw 4 жыл бұрын

Hallo, good video :) I have axial tolerance crankshaft 0,60mm.This is very big problem or not? Rotax mod.122. Thanks for your answer.Best regards from Serbia.

@antonioilijevic9031 3 жыл бұрын

Neznam jer ti je bitno to jos ali vjerovatno nije ali to je tolerancija dovoljna

@SamsungGalaxy-rb5qw 3 жыл бұрын

@@antonioilijevic9031 Hvala Antonio na odgovoru,smanjena je sada tolerancija na radilici,jer je fabrika navela siri dijapazon zazora do 0,60mm ucinilo mi se da je to i previse.

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

i apologise, I did not answer this. I no longer have the bike or the manual to even look.

@makethman007 4 жыл бұрын

actually you are way off the mark the issue with the cct of this type is that the piston and the cylinder wear out and there is no more hydraulic pressure / damping so the whole thing loosens up and rattles as the lobes go over the tappets the only way to fix this is to re chrome the barrel and piston so they are able to seal this is what i am doing now, then you have to re rivet the whole thing together

@jasonputtock4428 4 жыл бұрын

your wrong on this particular problem with regards to this CCT. 23 units later and they are still running strong. good luck in fixing your own item. Hopefully you have a good enough unit to use. The extention on this arm demonstrated is WITHOUT oil present. your assesment on this unit is in fact wrong. Their was no problem with the CCT, just full of shitty oil thick enough to look like marmite spread. Furthermore, the chain is the culprit not the lobes or tappets. It is called CHAIN SLAP. The chain slaps against the body work of the inside of the engine case. If you are going to trash what I have shown where the chain slap comes from and why. Atleast get some of the facts right. This was an oil issue not a piston. so good luck with your repairs. this problem is different from yours.

@ariffinrazi1038 4 жыл бұрын

Can the pump be service ?

@jasonputtock4428 Жыл бұрын

most just swap it out. I do not see this being serviceable.

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