Appreciate it! Thanks!

Thank you, kind sir!

There _is_ an engine cover for the bottom of the engine. I’ll try to get a video put together for it by, let’s say, next month or two.

Thank you!

I am here, of course.

You use a torque wrench to tighten things to a certain amount.

Cross thread is when the threads on one part end up misaligning with the threads on the mating part. The part goes in crooked.

That’s interesting! It must be in their system wrong. Which store is this at? Or is it from a delaer?

@@theoccasionalmechanic4569 AutoZone and my local ford dealership here in Florida, they both gave me the FL400s oil filter so I don’t understand.

@@theoccasionalmechanic4569 both AutoZone and the Ford dealer gave me the Fl400s motor craftsman oil filter but it doesn’t fit at all, but the FL500s does. And both of their systems show that it uses FL400s oil filter

Thanks! May it go without a hitch!

The method description is the same - not sure if the battery hold-down bracket and bolt look the same though. Probably.

Glad it helped!

My pleasure!

I took a brief look at Chilton’s manual and the process looks similar, but they do have some difference between 2018 up to 3/2018, and those made after 3/2018. I’ll take a closer look tonight and get back to you. But I’m curious, what is the $2,200 offer for?

After taking a closer look, there are some differences. The engine under cover is a bit different - you need to “remove front wheel opening extension pad LH” by removing two screws (I didn’t see a picture for that part, so not sure what it looks like). More importantly, they redesigned the coolant system and removed the Air Drain Cock Plug, so there’s no need for that entire procedure. Also, the amount of coolant required depends on whether you have an Engine Oil Cooler, and also whether you have a Rear No. 2 Seat. I suggest you go to your local library and see if they have Chilton’s manual online, like my library does, then you can see the procedure for yourself.

@@theoccasionalmechanic4569 Thank you!!

Chilton’s still recommends 0W-20 for USA. In Canada, 0W-20 for best fuel economy and cold weather starting, or 5W-20.

Thanks for the comment! I think it will help those who visit the video.

I think i would use the old gasket, or get a new one. I think it might leak without a gasket.

Plus, I would double check that the gasket isn’t just stuck in place, and seems like it isn’t there.

Glad to help!

If there was only a way to warn people! PB Blaster is your best bet. I’m really curious why they rust so much! Is it galvanic corrosion - a steel screw and an aluminum connector? There is a connector in the housing

You’re welcome!

Thanks!

I completely agree with you - follow the instructions for tightening the filter that come with the filter. It looks like I tightened the filter 1/3 revolution beyond hand tight. This is less than the 3/4 of a turn you state, so I’m not sure why you think there is an issue.

Oh, is it because I tighten it by hand more than “finger tight”?

@@jonathaniwamasa6343 This should help clarify. It's from the OEM service manual: "Remove oil filter. To install, lubricate the oil filter O-ring with clean engine oil and then tighten the oil filter three-fourths turn after the oil filter gasket makes contact with the oil filter adapter." So you spin the filter until the oil filter gasket just touches the engine. Then you only turn it 3/4 more turn, even if it doesn't really feel tight. This will also help make sure that it's easier to remove in the future, and the filter cap wrench might work then.

I do see the chilton’s manual states: “Tighten the filter one half to three quarters turn after it comes in contact with the mounting flange (or follow any instructions which are provided on the filter or parts box).” But I do think my filter instructions said “hand tight” and a “little more” with a wrench. I try to provide the exact instructions as I find them, during any procedure.

iI looks like I tightened by hand about 1/3 more than first contact and then by wrench about another 1/3. So, 2/3 (0.667) beyond finger tight, which is still below the 3/4 (0.750) turn you state. Seems about equivalent to me.

My car is a 2010 rx450h. I thought 2010-2015 were all the same, with AWD having some additional parts that make the area around the engine block drain plug look a bit different, but the location was the same. I’m in the process of moving and my computer is packed up, but maybe I can get to my library on my tablet and see what the Chilton’s manual says.

Oh, yes, the petcock color could differ - it’s the location that is important.

I looked at Chilton’s manual for a 2013 rx450h, and the engine block drain plugs are in the same location as the 2010 rx450h (the car in my video). There may be more parts in the way for the AWD, but the drain plugs are in the same location.

Sorry, I couldn’t be more helpful.

Viktor G Automotive has a video of the same procedure, if you want to get a different perspective. I have a link at the end of my video.

@@aviekalker9713Well, problem solved!

You’re welcome!

The tool I used is shown at 1:00. It’s just like a screwdriver, but at the end you can attach a socket, in this case, an 8mm socket. I’ve also got an extension attached, since the screwdriver-type tool wasn’t long enough on its own. You just put the socket on the bolt and turn counter clockwise. This is shown starting at 0:35. That wedge is the only thing holding the battery in place. After you remove it, you can just lift the battery out.

The scanner in the video is actron model cp9550. It’s really old now, but i think i probably paid $45 for it. Not sure why someone is selling it for $450 used. Definitely a scam. I also bought an innova model 5110 at some point, because i had misplaced the actron. I see it at advance auto for $67.99, which is about what i remember paying for it. Additionally, if you’re cash strapped, i see the innova 5010 code reader for $41.99 at advance auto. Hope that helps!

It just takes a little tap on the washer - no need to gouge the surface.

Maybe you need a cheater bar, to get more leverage.

Congratulations on your success! I was kind of amazed at how many youtube videos on starter replacement there was that didn’t actually show what to do.

It looks like you can buy the sockets for $8.81 from a ford dealer, but the diagram doesn’t indicate any wiring. Probably comes with wire that you’d have to splice on.

I never did find a solution, but decided to leave them installed. Kind of torn on the issue, since I still have those warning messages. Maybe I should have installed halogen instead. I even tried Cougar brand led headlight bulbs, but had the same problem.

Not sure why it stuck on there, but I get another shot at it tomorrow when i do my next oil change - this time with the drain hose!

Sorry about your troubles! Hope you find a solution.