If the engine is not running, engine oil pressure goes to zero psi. So, you don't need to release the pressure. Additionally, there are two chambers for engine oil & coolant in the engine oil cooler. Coolant flows through the engine oil cooler but it shouldn't contact with engine oil. If it dose, the cooler should be exchanged.

​@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 thank you for your fast reply. Yes that's makes sense, only when oil pressure is active oil should get it from the oil filter. Also it makes sense that only cooling liquid is in the oil cooler and not oil filter chamber. I want to exchange whole cooling liquid, as the cooling water pump is leaking a bit. I want to exchange therefore the thermostat also. In that case it could make sense to change the bearing from oil filter chamber as well right? I'm gonna also replace the ribbed belt and all pullies and the tensioner.

@BlaBla-jq5do Does the "bearing" mean the oil pump? If you want to exchange the coolant due to leaking, you don't need to do. However, if you want to flush the system due to contamination or out of the date of coolant, please follow these steps; 1. Drain coolant from the system 2. Fill up with water 3. Run the engine until the thermostat is open(If you removed thermostat, it will be OK running the engine for 15 minutes) 4. Drain the water and flush the system with water again(Wait untill the engine becomes cool) 5. Replace parts(waterpump or thermostat) 6. Fill up with coolant(concentrate one due to water in the system remaining) 7. Run the engine untill thermostat opens 8. Check the coolant level

​​@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 I'm sorry, i meant sealing (O-ring) not bearing, my fault. I have to replace the cooling pump and thought it is good idea to exchange/flush the whole cooling fluid as the car is 12 years old and has 200tkm now. Therefore i want to exchange all parts which could make problems and where i have to drain the cooling liquid again. Thanks for your manual. Is it really necessary if i just want to exchange the cooling fluid. I think i don't have a polluted/contaminated system.

It's 10~12Nm.

10Nm, mate.

Yes, they are right. After exchanging the part, the calibration using VDC is essential.

@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 thank you so much for such a quick reply! the issue i have is they said they needed a tool to hold the wastegate arm in place in order to use the vcds to calibrate (everyone ive spoken to has never come across this tool, even audi). The part they mentioned is T40290, have you ever had to use this to calibrate the turbo, or is it a simple operationwith vcds? Many thanks!

​@@robparry9412No need for holding the wastegate arm. Only VDC is needed.

@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 thank you for confirming this, exactly what I needed to hear!

Does anyone know of a good step by step guidance video or documentation on using VDC to calibrate the actuators voltage correctly.

As you can see in the video, you need to remove the circlip holding the sensor and push it into oil pan.

​@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 ok so that sensor is held in by a circlip got ya and the adaptor is just sitting in the engine bay

@StaceyEveritt Yes, it is.

At the end of this video, you can see the bleeding process.

3~4 hours.

Thank you for your great comment as well.

Procedure below I carried out. 1. Drained oil completely 2. Replaced DSG oil cooler and carried out cooling system pressure test 3. If cooling system held the pressure, remove the DSG oil filter and clean the area 4. Replaced the filter with new one 5. Filled the DSG oil and drive for 10 minutes 6. Drain and fill the oil in, plus road test (you need to fo this procedure until all the system is flushed. 7. Once you can see the clean oil, replace the filter with new one. 8. Make sure correct oil level

@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 what if the old filter is completely wet and filled with that milky substance? Do I still return that filter to the car or just leave it out?

@mrlakay3074 I recommend to replace the filter as the filter is already contaminated. Additionally DSG fluid should be exchanged every 60,000km with a filter.

@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 any recommendations to clean out the entire coolant system?

@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 can I run it for the 10 minutes without an oil filter?

I recommend not to touch the oil sludge. Just let it be.

I live in Australia. If you have an invoice for that repair, I recommend to visit them for this matter.

@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 I took it in earlier this week. They cleaned the entire engine down. I drove it 11 miles home and the leak is back. I’ll contact them Monday morning

There is one bolt in the aft of the cover, in the middle. Its very difficult to get to. Maybe they saved it for later, since its so difficult, and then forgot it...

You can exchange the gasket only. However, you must check the oil pan is warfed or not.. If it is, you need to exchange the oil pan.

Yep.. that's true..

Thank you for your lovely comment.

If there's no coolant leak, you don't need to replace it.

It seems like balance shaft problem. However, get a check from mechanic.

Thank you for your valuable comment.

It's material problem. Alloy can be corroded itself, sometimes.

It took around 4hours.

That's related to the fuel consumption. I can't believe it..

@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 weight reduction 😂 are you guys based in the uk or overseas?

I am in Sydney, Australia.

@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 that explains the birds, they are only found in warmer climates

It wasn't. Because the flap was fixed to lower RPM air inlet. Maybe it will happened at higher speed or RPM.

It seems like a reasonable price.

@@b.k.automotiveservices9489I mean how much is the labor you charged for this job.

I used a silicone spray.

Hi there, it's called as RTV, a silicone silant for an automotive application.

Thank you so much! Do you know the torque specs for tightening the 15 bolts back down?

It's about 9~10Nm.

​@@b.k.automotiveservices9489thank you, I appreciate it

I am not sure before to be heard about the sound. It can be balance shaft sound.

Sounds like ah bad lifter/s problem if it goes away when it’s warm. Get you ah can Seafoam and pour it in the crankcase and follow the directions, if that doesn’t work then you gotta replace the oil pump and the lifters

@@5hunnidCG thank you. I’ll look into that!

I hit the top section and bottom section with chiesle and hammer to make a little bit of gap between the water pump and the housing. After that I wiggled the water pump until it came off.

No, it didn't have that fault code.

Ive got that too. I hope it will disappear when I change it

The fault code needs to carry out regeneration procedure unless it will cost too much.

The system didnt want to run a new test on the filter, we got it deleted by getting the system knowing that the filter has been changed

10~12 Nm

Faulty DSG fluid cooler was the reason.

Did the trans got hurt?

Works well after several flushing the system.

@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 do the DSG coolers get faulty often or is this rare?

It was rare case. I've never seen this problem except for this car.

Sorry I cannot remember. But it should be manufactured around early 2000. Because, thesedays, Honda uses the electronic throttle body.

Unfortunately, you need to remove the shaft. Physically, you cannot make space for taking the sump out without removing the shaft.

I recommend to replace the timing belt every 100,000km. However, the other might have different opinion.

@@b.k.automotiveservices9489 thanks for your advise.