We use many different pumps. I prefer the Goulds brand but there are some other great brands out there.

Any shade over the tank will help. But you can also cool the water as it goes to the house. Dig a deeper trench and lay larger pipe so the water has time to sit underground and cool off. I have 200' of 2" pipe and the water is always nice and cool.

@@jimblair1 pipe was recently replaced and it's 18" down now. Cant remember what size pipe. But it's only about 75 ft or so to the house. Getting quote for a custom jacket but ill try a tarp first. canopy would be tricky due to clearance from a power line.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIWto4Wmi9Cciqssi=AMftjFvr4oQwCW3l

This newer video shows the pressure tank

Yes that is correct.

I would reach out to the manufacturer of the generator to see. But, I would expect that it would run the controller just fine. Just make sure you start the generator first and let it warm up for 30 seconds before you plug the pump controller into the generator. And then make sure you unplug the pump controller before you shut off the generator. You never want to send power to the pump controller while the generator is starting up or shutting down.

​@@NightOwl_MonitoringAppreciate the response. I think I have a Honda generator that has Digital Automatic Voltage Regulation that might be closer to what Franklin Electric wants. I called Franklin and left them a message.

They are in TX it looks like. That much water would never freeze in most (all?) parts of TX. I was kind of wondering about the pipes that come down the side though

If you get a thick dark tank, then there won't be enough sunlight for algae growth. Any metal tank is fine. Plastic tanks that are black are always best but a dark green works too. If you get a tan or lighter color, then make sure it is really thick. If its fiberglass, you can paint it to stop the sunlight if they don't have a light blocker built into the tank. You can also control algae with chlorine. But, don't bother putting in a tank and just cleaning it occasionally. That will be a complete disaster. Been there. Done that.

Any tank can be come full of sediment.

This pump house was made by a local welder. He is no longer making them for us.

To quote Robert Burns: “The best laid schemes o' mice an' men / Gang aft a-gley.” Translation: "Sometimes when you build a shed, you don't realize its real purpose is a pump house."

Most people dont do that but there is nothing wrong with that idea. If leaks happen, it will not rot the wood as fast. Good idea.

The most common way we deal with sulfur gas is to add a storage tank system. You can see that here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIWto4Wmi9Cciqs Start at 2:38 to see the discussion on sulfur gas.

If the pump can't build enough pressure to turn off the pressure switch then you either have a leak downstream or the pump is not capable of building enough pressure. Close all discharge valves to isolate the system and see if the pump is capable of building shut off pressure.

@jimblair1 thank you I'll try that

Unfortunately, no. The pumpsaver detects when the pump runs out of water by how much electricity the pump is using. It has no way of detecting the quality of the water coming out of the pump.

I don't give out my email address on this platform. But you can go to my website www.beecavedrilling.com and fill out a service request form and it will get to me.

Why? I am about to maybe do the same "mistake"

Yes. If your goal is just constant pressure, then that would achieve the results.

I don't sell floats that I don't install. You should contact your local water well driller for a good float switch.

We use Goulds pumps.

@@jimblair1 he is asking about the pump house. thanks

Bees are people too Kevin. Thanks for the nice comment.

It depends on how you wire it. There are a thousand different ways to set up the electrical system depending on what you want to do.

Most pvc casing that we use is joined by a plastic tab and O-ring. Look up Certalok Casing

The way we like to set it up has the top float switch only turning the well pump on/off. the lower floats control the booster pump. check out my other video on this. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIWto4Wmi9Cciqs

Yes. To get that high of pressure, you will need a multi-stage pump. The most common are submersibles but there are booster pumps that can do that high as well.

@@jimblair1 Do you know of any booster pumps that can boost that much pressure?

Yes, the water cannon style of booster pump can easily do that. They are used mainly for car wash applications. I use the Goulds brand and the model they use is the GBC and GBS. You likely won't find them on the internet as they are usually sold only through professional dealers.@@bluestingerborg

@@jimblair1 Can those be used for residential use?

Yes they can. @@bluestingerborg

If you get a dark enough tank that stops sunlight from getting into the tank, you don't have to worry about algae. If too much sunlight gets into the tank, you need chlorine to stop it. A UV light will not work. Cleaning depends on how dirty your water is. Most of my customers need to clean their tanks on average about every 10 years due to sediment build up on the bottom. But some need it every year and others never need it.

Yes we do occasionally. Watch this. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJ-0pJlor9N_hdk

Wow Jessica, you are taking on a big project. I hope you know how to wire up all this equipment. If you bury a tank, it can be a huge challenge. First you have to find a tank that can withstand the ground pressure. Unlike a septic tank, this tank will empty at times and the ground will crush a regular tank. Second, you have to figure out how to keep it from popping out of the ground. Cementing it in place tends to work if you are in rock. The J15s is a great booster. It needs an 85 gallon pressure tank. Like the Goulds V250 or similar. The pumpmaster plus is the correct float switch for this. You will need one "pump up" and two "pump down" models. This is a big job. You might consider working with one of your local water well professionals. They can make the job go a lot smoother.

@@jimblair1 Thanks so much for responding. Your concerns make sense, so we will go with above ground to be safe and just hide it behind some trees. Unfortunately the area well guys are terrible at communication. Took a long time just to get the well dug (many months after booking) and emails since then tend to go un-responded to. There just isn't anyone around here passionate about what they do and it shows. My husband is plumbing and wiring the whole house, so I think he will be ok doing this project if I have all the parts figured out for him. In fact I'd pay you to just make a drawing of our system and supplies so he has a blueprint to follow. I think I have most of it figured out, but even just buying him all the right size pipes etc would save him time back and forth to the hardware store. I have on order the pump and 3 floats, a 86 gal pressure tank, springwell filters, pressure gages and valves. Got a sediment filter to run through before the water fills into the tank to help keep the tank from being filled with sediment so fast. Any problem you see with doing that?

Anything that creates heat will help. Just make sure it isn't a fire hazard. Many people burn down their well equipment by not watching out for fires.

I am sorry but i saw this posting too late. Iam hoping by now that you have everything thawed out and working.

This will work if you can actually drain the water. But in most cases, you will need an air compressor to blow the water out if the pipes. Trapped water will still freeze.

As long as you completely drain all tanks, pipes, etc. the equipment will not be damaged due to a freeze. But it may be hard to get all the water out depending upon how your system is set up. You may need compressed air to get the job done fully. Good luck!

Thanks!@@jimblair1 I'll sure be willing to put in a little extra work when closing up camp. Which is much easier than having to worry all year.