Amazing set up 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼

My man is working hard 😂

Thank you for such a clear demonstration. I have inherited a pack of needles in their original sleeve that i had no idea what they did. All is now clear, shame there wasn't a stove to go with it😂 you certainly learn something new everyday if you ask questions and actually go through that old box you've been meaning to sort for years! I'm now trying to stop myself from looking for an old stove, love the old technologies...

The Wellman is in great condition - Cheers Jim

SHOULD NEVER USE ALCOHOL IN THIS STOVE.

Wow, cool. A nice collectable. I saw ads for seventies versions of this exact set in magazines as a kid but never knew anyone who had one.

I might be cheating, I would hold a match under the domed bottom of my 123 to create a little pressure, crack the valve and proceed from there. Just pulled my 123 out after decades of non use and it still has soot on the bottom. last time i used it was in the 80's going up Mt. Whitney.

Champlin Garden

I will generally hold my Zippo under the bottom of the fuel tank for a few seconds to warm. A match will do the same thing

Are you saying that Exa/Exacta lenses will work on M body Leicas, just screw on?

With shapeways no longer in business, where can I purchase your models?

This was my first "real" camera. My dad had an Exacta so i used one of his old lenses.

Been trying to fix two of these and given up. Their design is rubbish and any attempt to clean contracts beaks them !

Hello, which one is suitable for this type of gasoline stove No. 92 or 95?

Before Lonestar OOO, there wasn't any N guage model railways.

I agree… it is a simple & great little camera… also fun to use! Thanks!

Wow I like it😀

If Exa have 1000/s box body it could be the best camera ever made :3

Hello! I know you're a bit of a true crime documentary enthusiast. I invite you to watch the latest true crime documentary video I shared. Would you like to share your thoughts?

Hey friend! I know you're a real-life crime documentary lover. The offer to watch the latest documentary is still valid. Maybe this documentary will catch your interest.

I've had mine for 12 years, and I go on at least 10 trips a year. I have never used the brass windscreen because mine came with a Sigg tourist. It also came with an eye dropper and the jet pokey tool. I've never seen this entire method, and it's interesting. The point is to build pressure in the tank, so why is step 1 be to relieve any pressure in the tank? When I go on a trip, I anticipate the built pressure from elevation gain and use it to my advantage. I fill the stove 2/3 full at home elevation. My logic being if I fill it at elevation, I lose that pressure and have to start from scratch. I put 2 or 3 eye droppers full into the priming divot. Light that, and then open the valve, which starts bubbling fuel, immediately lighting. In 30-ish seconds, the yellow flame burns out, and the blue jet is roaring its familiar tune. I've easily cooked 200 meals on this original 123, and the only time it scared me was from a stainless pot reflecting too much heat and making a flame thrower out of the pressure relief valve. I removed the pot, and it calmed down. Sorry about the novel. Thanks for the video. It's interesting to see how the factory intended the lighting process. Happy trails 🚶‍♂️ 🚶‍♂️ 🚶‍♂️

Hi! An exakta vx iib noob here! does anyone know how I can remove and attach new lenses to it?

Hi! An exakta varex iib noob here! while not the exact model above, does anyone know how I can remove and attach new lenses to it?

Thank you. I remember those instructions from the old Colin Fletcher book, too. It probably works best in colder weather with a large temperature differential from body heat.

💖 "promo sm"

Is it compatible with KATO couplers?

Love these old toys. I have a couple of Fleischmanns and Wilescos.

Thanks for the video, I did not know this was the original instruction method for lighting....I have always used a plastic squeeze dropper and squirted it in the divit ........for me it works much faster and less hassle than the hand warmer way.....I never ever had a problem after years of use......warming the tank in cold weather is important....using the pump in extreme temps is good.......still I appreciate the video....if I ever lost the dropper this is good to know....I didnt think it would generate enough pressure to cause the fuel to perculate up.....thank you....!!!

Спасибо!

I wouldn’t say it’s horrible….the locomotive is over 50 years old…one of the first N scale offerings. Back then they were revolutionary for the times. Give it a cleaning and oiling and keep it as a reminder as to how well the hobby has progressed to allow today’s state of the art models.

Some people complain about lighting in cold weather or altitude...designed in SWEDEN....but if it is that cold I'm usually going to switch to my MSR Dragonfly and kerosene.

What a great stove design! So simple, compact, reliable, and powerful for it's size. It punches far above its weight class with very few failure points. Possibly the best of all time. Yup, this method works every time. In severe cold when you don't want to expose your hands to that cold brass, resetting the fuel cap and slipping it under your coat for a few seconds also works very well. A mini/midi pump and cap work really well and get you to full power as soon as the preheat is done. The hand warming works much quicker than you demostrate. It's almost instantaneous. Instead of picking it up, usually all that's required is to open the valve and grasp the base without needing to remove the wind screen. In just a couple of seconds, the fuel will start flowing. When you say, "No..mess..", that's a bit misleading. Using the stove fuel WILL create some soot on the burner, which isn't a big deal to me. But if you like to keep them pristine, alcohol is still the way to go.

Thanks for not adding anything like noise, some think is music! Or real music!

Thank you for posting this!! I see so many videos of idiots that think they need to start the stove with a raging fireball............ My stove was purchased in 1972. Same model as yours. Been using it for more than 50 years. I cannot warm mine with my hands in anything but true summer conditions. In cooler temperatures, my hands are always freezing. It was terrible during my dating years...... any way. I use an eyedropper. I open the tank cap, check the level, use the eyedropper to squirt fuel into the burner cup, and watch it run down the vaporizing tube , until it JUST fills the well at the bottom of the tube. Just like your demonstration - replace the cap, make sure the valve is off, then ignite the fuel. I follow the same process to prime and ignite the stove. No muss, no fireball, Just a dependable start for 50 years. The only difference is in sub freezing temperatures. The stove will start, but can be kinda balky until its warm enough. I have tossed it in my sleeping bag at night to keep it war,m(er) but in truly cold conditions it's still a bear to get running some times. So I purchased from a plumbing supply a high temp plumbers felt pad. It's a felt pad that is hung between whatever pipe you are soldering and anything flammable like wood. You can hit it with a plumbers torch, and it will glow, but it will not burn. I cut a small 1/2" wide strip and wrapped it around the bottom of the vaporizing tube, and tied it off with a piece of fine wire. When I dribble fuel down the vaporizing tube, the pad will soak up quite a bit of it. When I ignite the fuel to prime the stove, the priming flame lasts much longer, and gives a winter cold stove a real boost. When I crack the valve open, I get blue flame right away. Couple more tips t1) This one from Colin Fletcher's first book - After shutting down the stove, and the flame goes out. Open the valve and let the fuel vapor gas out for about 10 seconds. Cleans the jet. I cannot remember the last time I really needed my jet cleaner. 2) The reason why some use alcohol to start the stove, is it does not leave soot. I keep my stove really clean, and in warmer temperatures have primed it this way. 3) An MSR Universal Canister stand fits the Svea 123 PERFECTLY. Makes the whole system a lot more stable. An extra ounce to carry but well worth it! Thanks again for posting! A Svea 123 roaring away in the woods or online always brings a smile to my face.

I've lit mine using this, but I find it easier to use a pipette with 90-proof rubbing alcohol into the bowl on the tank. This eliminates the nasty soot buildup on both the burner bell and the fuel jet assembly, and thus, no dirty hands! :)

I bought my first Svea around 1965, to go backpacking when I was in college. I still have it, and it still works fine. They got less popular in the later 1960s as butane gas stoves were introduced. Butane was more convenient to fire up (Just open a valve and light up), but they didn't put out nearly as much heat, cooked more slowly, and you had to ranch all of those little gas canisters. I never heard before of the trick of first warming the fuel tank with your hands to initially build some internal pressure. I just spilled a bit of gas from the separate gas can into the warming bowel below the burner and lit it off, opening the burner valve when it warmed enough to build tank pressure. That could get a bit tricky at times. I like another comment about keeping a little squeeze bottle of jellied alcohol stored in the stove as an alternative source of warming fuel. I'll look into that if I ever use the Svea again.

Amazing how quiet and smooth these can be with enough servicing. I've got one of their 4-2-2s - Did you have to re-magnetize the motor?

Excellent videography! I'm subscribing.

What is the best Shapeways material to order? If I file more axle clearance would you consider the fine detail plastic to be the better choice?

Very nice, like .

Western Railroad of Massachusetts? Then Florida?

Where did this prototype operate in it's service life? Very nicely designed, built and painted model.

Repowered?

I was given this model for Christmas when I was 10. I'm 76 now and still have it in perfect working condition. I am using a Bix gas burner instead of Esbit fuel. What a wonderful toy.

Cheers for the great video on a neat tiny little train! I got one of these second hand that just turned up yesterday that's in rather sad condition, sadly she and her little 0-4-0 Bachmann dockside will probably just become neat little decorations next to my running lines, but it was really nice to see what she would have looked like when up and running well!

is it mechanical?

Un hermoso video como siempre❤

Bravoi!! I agree I too have my Contax II, and III, Praktina, and Pentacon, and the Kodak Retina Reflex with all German Lenses. So why paid through the Nose with a Leica as these models, and your EXA gives a thrill in Sharp, Contrasty, and a thrill to use them... Thank You Love the Video, especially the one shot of the SAAB car in Texas as I thought that shot was in Europe.

This is in the old TT N and Z internationaller modeleisenbahn katalog 1980

When looking for lenses, what mount are you looking for? Just found this camera at a garage sale for 5 bucks.