Bose uses typical speakers and uses software magic to get "great" sound. I'm curious if you feel that you've lost some quality due to that? *It's totally okay if you don't notice. IE The Bose speakers themselves were never the cool part.

❤

Please explain why you have connected 4033 pins directly to the seven-segment display without any resistors, so no brightness control and safety.

Can I use MCP3208 to make a 12 bit analog to digital converter with 12 LED that corresponds each bit? I also need to connect a turbidity sensor that will go through the supposed MCP3208 ADC before going to arduino

Very Helpful thankyou ( now i know what floating pin means ) and a lot lot more

filtering before mosfet, does it not defeat the purpose of operating fet a fast switch? this makes a variable resistor from the mosfet, not really a PWM

I'm getting static with my audio. What could that be?

If I have a 12v relay using drawing 80ma and still works down to 6.5v (drawing 46ma) , what values of resistors & cap would you suggest in your circuit ?, Also how would you handle the transistor base voltage at 12v ?

😉

Gracias por la clase !

Ive got the same one I can’t seem to start it up do I need to start it up with the remote

I know this is an old video but it really helped me out. I'm now shopping for a Bluetooth stereo amp board (looking at the AP50L) to fix my old dock. Thanks so much for sharing this.

nice build, could you please explain why you use these specific capacitors?

Simon, this is absolutely brilliant and explains the CD4033 (and CD4026) completely. Thanks for making it.

the serial monitor display stops refreshing once I do anything with the rotary encoder. Im in india so my intial frequency is 98.3 I'm not getting any audio other than the buzzing even when at initial frequency

GOOD explanation! Short but not TOO short. Clears it all out for me! #ThumbsUp

Hi I have sounddock series 2 and recently noticed that it remains stuck in green light upon powered on but won't play any music ( via the aux in Bluetooth receiver) & no bleep/bloop sound too. I leave the speaker on for few minutes and then power if off & on. After that I hear the bleep/bloop sound and speaker plays music ok. What could be the issue? I like your mod but will the remote and dock board volume buttons work after the replacement?

Good information = thank you. The application that I am researching is to control exhaust fans to remove compressor heat from the cabinet that will house a 12VDC refrigerator in a camper. The ACS724 will monitor the current driving the refrigerator compressor. The Arduino will turn on a buffer transistor that will drive the coil on a 12VDC relay to turn on the fans. We will be using 12VDC computer fans. An Arduino R3/328P has 20mA available, per pin, so the transistor may not be necessary. However, it would serve as a good buffer, regardless. Maybe a MOSFET would be better. Or, maybe a triac and skip the relay. Lots to consider. Your thoughts? The new R4 has more bits of resolution (I forget the exact number,) but it can only source 8mA from a single pin.

nice

Thanks for your interesting video! Will try to rebuild it. Greetings from 🇨🇭, Bo

How to make it start from 1 instead of 0? 1-999

Amigo , mine is just like yours , the green light comes on but no sound , I use a wire to attach to my iPhone 8 Plus, Could I send you my unit and make it work like yours? I’m in Cozumel Mexico !!! Please I need help here those speakers are so expensive

Couldn't one just use a zener diode to open a normally closed relay, and in that way cut the power to a circuit when the input reaches the limit of the zener?

hi simon, Im just trying to make a high current 3 phase esc. Im here to learn something from you. first I need to know how to drive mosfets with limited current output. Im using an arduino and its pwm current output is limited 40 ma. So I cant work directly with high current mosfets. so I tried to drive them with the help of small transistors. But my pwm is fading. Im stuck. would you please help me about it ?

Hi excellent video . I am using a logitech bluetooth adapter with series 2 and 3 also sounds excellent . But I want to connect a active subwoofer to series 3 I want a sub out from this small speaker . If you can made a video on this that would be great . Thanks

Hi. Why we don't use resistors between the 4543 outputs and the display segments in this circuit. I also studied this system myself and noticed that it seemed to introduce this resistance itself, because adding resistors by me did not limit the current.

Is the IC MCP3208 really good when we use it to measure AC? Or we should use another IC.

Thank you do you for am I am breakfast mu Cat is bread

Exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks Senior.

Firstly, congratulations on producing a very clearly photographed and explained video with absolutely no verbal bloat. I instantly understood the circuit diagram without listening to your explanation and the design is very elegant. I was searching for an over voltage protection circuit for an Arduino based instrument that I am developing and I need to protect one of the analog pins from exceeding 5 volts. This circuit does not quite fit the bill as I need something that automatically resets itself when the voltage drops back under 5 volts. I intend to adapt your circuit to use a LM431 Adjustable Precision Zener Shunt Regulator in place of the MAC97A4 triac. So many thanks for publishing this circuit. I have subscribed.

Sir. Could you please explain 3 digit circuit of common anod 7 segment display like this one?

Nice and clear explanation!

Would it suffice to just use analogWrite to change the pwm duty cycle?

Great video! I saw you recommended Drok 200336. Did you install it & if you did where did you get the power? Thank You

I have scoured the KZbin for a clear explanation on this chip for 6 years and there you are at long last!!! Thank you so much for sharing this.

What Push button is that.. I tried with 4pin push button but it didn't work Can u send me the link or smthgelse regarding this push button Am too much confused here

Great video!, What if i used mac97a6 ? It still work isn't it?

Thank you so much for sharing this! I ordered the little amp from DROC and the rest was easy thanks to your video. The little Sound Dock is sounding better than ever in the background as I'm typing. Big thumbs up from Australia :)

how would you connect a second display for a 2 digit scoreboard?

Cool. Under the tray those are T8 torx btw. Mine was only playing at full blast. Had to take the - and + buttons out and clean them. crud just got in there over time and they wouldn't bounce back. The little switches under them are old too, but it's usable again for now. I still have 2 working iPods with that interface but are not blue tooth, so this thing needs to last. 😃

Thank you for this vidéo

Nice Video, I am using ESP32 which works at 3.3v, I need to control Co2 Laser power which can be controlled using potentiometer powerd by 5v. Will this work for me where in I send PWM signal from ESP32 to the Gate and create variable resistance between Drain and Source (As this is control signal power draw would be small).

Where did you buy this board? share the link 🙋🏻‍♂️

This circuit is susceptible to the non-linear transfer characteristic of the MOSFET. Since the gate threshold (the voltage required before the MOSFET starts to turn on) varies from sample to sample, the circuit is not reproducible without finding the initial offset by trial and error. Secondly, the relationship between the gate voltage and the drain current is essentially quadratic, not linear, when the MOSFET has a drain voltage significantly greater than the gate threshold voltage, as is the case here. That means that the output current rises more quickly at higher currents for the same amount of button press. However, if you require a steady dc current output, this is the simplest way to do it. The alternative is to pass the pwm signal to the MOSFET without filtering, i.e. remove the 100μF capacitor, but leave the other resistors in place. Now the MOSFET will be either on or off at the same frequency as the signal from the Arduino and with the duty cycle of the pwm. That means the power dissipated in the MOSFET is near to zero and it can handle greater loads. The average drain current will now be directly proportional to the duty cycle of the pwm and will provide a linear relationship between button press and output current with no offset, regardless of the individual logic level MOSFET used. However, the current through the load will be in pulses at 1.95KHz and not every application will cope with that. Nevertheless for controlling lights or motors, etc. it will be satisfactory. Remember, though, to use a reverse-biased diode between drain and positive supply when driving inductive loads to suppress the back emf each time the MOSFET switches off.

Sounds more like a fart than a Moog synth.

One note of caution: there are two distinct types of green led available. The older type was not very bright even at 20mA, but only had a forward voltage of about 2V at that current. The newer type is much brighter, but has a forward voltage drop around 3.5V at 20mA. If you're using a 2V green led, then you have 3V/370R = 8mA through the 150R and the led/220R. The gate of the MOSFET will be at around 3.8V, which should be fine for the IRL540 (Vt=2V max), but not all "logic-level" MOSFETS will turn on as hard with that gate voltage. If you're using a 3.5V green led, then you have about 1.5V/370R = 4mA through the 150R and the led/220R. The gate of the MOSFET will be at around 4.3V. Personally, I'd be tempted to use 330R for R1 (which then doesn't need a higher power rating) and 470R for R4/R3. A high brightness green led is plenty bright enough even with 2mA. The current through the triac when triggered would be more than 15mA, which is still above the maximum holding current of 10mA.

Wow cool project. I never would’ve thought to do that. Mine speaker stopped working recently though my iPod is still getting power from the dock so I think the sound board has gone bad. Replacement board is roughly $50. So I might give this a shot.

what segment display is that? i need 10 that size

hi! mine was working normally until today. just makes the initial sound but the 24 pin is not functioning anymore (doesn't even charge the ipod). i suspect its the sound board since it does turn on but nothing else... any thoughts?

hi i have same model but not working i found i c ior p833 not working but i cant found in the market do you know where i can found thank you