Thanks for this. I have a different brand with female jacks on either side but the I've side has a poor connection so im gonna hardwire.

Awesome.

Restaurants are a good source for used cooking fryer oil.

Very cool. I have considered distilling oil oil for many years… curious to see your setup. Great video.

12:10 “every so often it pops” that is water / moisture in the oil and can be very dangerous if you have anything over the heater. One rain drop will make the flame rise several feet… a few drops and it gets intense. Oh, I see you figured that out, haha.

I bought one hum noise eliminated but found that audio output of initial speech was muted.

Hello, I just found one of these which runs and is in great shape but I noticed it wasn't spitting much water back out so I found an impeller and ordered it. Do you think that will do it and is it hard to replace?

These were great engines for sure

excellent detonation on the use of charcoal& water to produce hydrogen-rich gas we often call hydrocarbon or hydrocarbon gas or water gas.

where are you adding fuel? Ive built a couple burners recently just not happy with any of them yet.. This looks like it may make the BTU's I want..

hello nice video.are your holes drilled straight or down

I wonder how it would work out with one tank lying on its side and the stove pipe leaving out the back .is it still heating your house ?

Hello, do you have the connection diagram and the file for Arduino?

Hello. Toward the end of the video you have 2 pipes coming off the oil line. Curious as to what the top pipe is for?

Fantastic burner. :) I am so looking forward to your burner burning plastic, I have about 30 five gallon /25 litre containers to get rid of from using waste oil :)

Love the content! Are you planning on making more videos on refinements to the charcoal gasifier?

Waiting all your life for a burner like this!! one that takes electricity!?🤨😂 they have been available in hardware stores FOREVER! People used to heat there home with oil since before you existed I think you are a few shingles short of a shake block

You are using a fan in this case a hair dryer not very efficient If you make some modifications you can have a venturie style set up and loose the hair dryer (electricity)

great work! following you since "MOT arc welder" project (not sure if the name is accurate, that was a while ago...). greetings from russia !

No

“Oh, my leg! Hank, I’m scared!”

2:46 that looks horrid and is bulky and sheds awful light. Just keep using flourescent tubes, or if you really don’t want to use flourescent use led retrofit tubes, not this junky old mess. Also that costs you more in the future because you have to replace bulbs lots when they blow, bad idea.

Stupidest thing I’ve ever seen

you could feed some or all off the exhaust gases back into the reactor (CO2 + C → 2CO ) you will get more flammable gases + it would run a bit colder. Also you could add the two heat exchangers together and run water though it (water heater) that water you could put in the reactor to lose less heat when dripping down cold water in the reactor.

Super nice build. I like the small footprint. Keeping everything in a smaller space is the best thing. Do you have any plans for gasified installation on a motor vehicle?

Best motor ever made. Made mine have a 36 hp long shaft for sailboat

It is great to see a generator working with your gasifier. When I added a water feed to mine, I was really impressed at the improvement I gained over raw charcoal. Your system is more complex than mine, but we are both getting good results from them :) .

Nice work. Your charcoal gasifier is appreciably more elaborate than mine, and it produces a lot more gas as a result. Even after all these years of running engines on wood and charcoal, it still amazes me just how well it works :) .

Next time can you show where your water drip is located in the hopper...wouldnt water steam inject be better in the burn chamber wher temperature are 700-1200.

I have a few thoughts... why wouldn't you make a dual function gasifier... 1. Gasifier which run on charcoal gas... 2. A gasifier that utilize the extreme hot temp ie paralysis process to create charcoal for you at the same time ie To used in the next burn. Example 1. if your hopper was larger you could have wood chunks in a fully enclosed sealable vessel with a manway lid. You would take the wood gass from the charoal vessel and inject back in to Pyrolysis chamber to be burned. You would need a vibrator mounted to the hopper to ensure charcoal feul from bridging in the main hopper to feed your reactor. Example 2. The reduction zone is extemely hot.. you could sheild the reduction zone with some diy castable refractory wall cone that can be replaced as need . To prevent the reduction from burning threw after months or years of usage cus the chamber would burn hotter. Part two... the above refractory liner would be a thin enought from prevent the chamber from melting or prevent thermal craking...the use back side of reduction zone as a secondary sealed hopper to manufacture more charcoal and again inject the wood gas back into Pyrolysis burner chamber above. You would have 2 chambers wher you could make charcoal

Add a comment... I have a few thoughts... why wouldn't you make a dual function gasifier... 1. Gasifier which run on charcoal gas... 2. A gasifier that utilize the extreme hot temp ie paralysis process to create charcoal for you st the same time ie To used in the next burn. Example 1. if your hopper was larger you could have wood chunks in a fully enclosed sealable vessel with a manway lid. You would take the wood gass from the charoal vessel and inject back in to Pyrolysis chamber to be burned. Example 2. The reduction zone is extemely hot.. you could sheild the reduction zone with some diy castable refractory wall cone that can be replaced as need . To prevent the reduction from burning threw after months or years of usage cus the chamberwould burn hotter. Part two... the above refractory liner would be a thin enought from prevent the chamber from melting or prevent thermal craking...the use back side of reduction zone as a secondary sealed hopper to manufacture more charcoal and again inject the wood gas back into Pyrolysis burner chamber above. You would have 2 chambers wher you could make charcoal

I had the same idea, water/coolant around the firecone but circulated otherwise it would boil fast. I'm going to just weld stainless together and use plaster-sand mix around it for a further heat sink. I'll see how that goes.

Good video. Need to trim the end blackness though.

READ THE ICONS! It not suitable for flammable fires (class B). Grease are K class and these work differently

water cooling the throat is bass ackwards...you want to get it white hot if you can. you are just trying to use cheap found materials and i will not work for very long...i still applaud your effort and time and experience will rule the outcome.

The air bubbles in the oil are from air being sucked into the pump from the drive shaft because there is no seal on that shaft which is above the oil level

I like the other way of cooling better ; drip in water to the air inlet , gives extra hydrogen gas too.

Gas tank still connected to the carb im not convinced

@4:22 Your gas still has water vapour in it. It might not be much, but it's still taking up space that could be filled with something that burns.

I really like it but surely it would be better to collect the gas rather than pass it straight into the engine? Then you could control the pressure and volume of the gas fed to the engine and it would be a bit more independent of the current output of the fire. e.g. (collect it in a bladder of some kind or submerged upturned bucket)

Good video. Is it an updraft? What are the tubes for going down to the flame for? When trying to start the generator after getting gas to the generator intake, turn the bower off and the generator should start much easier. Either your charcoal is too moist or you're dripping the water too fast. I don't think you want that much moisture after shutting down.

Very interesting to see. I have been interested in gasification for several years .. but haven't built a system yet. However, I do make charcoal .. mostly for garden use. I have a local friend who built a gasifier for his truck .. but he was using wood not charcoal .. so bc of the wood he was concerned about the buildup of tars on valves etc. So am I to understand that a charcoal burn is going to be a lot cleaner? (I assume so.) .. The other thing that's interesting to see is how you have introduced water drip into the charcoal. What do you understand this to be doing? I know that Water is Hydrogen and Oxygen .. so it would seem that by introducing it to the charcoal .. you can get more btu energy .. but I don't know. It's great to see the development of gasification .. there is better communication and problem solving! Thanks for your posts.

Dan, i don't understand the design, are you cooling the air / woodgas before it enters the carberetter ? is there a need for a carberetter ?

Run your flare heat through an old gas shop heater/ exchanger to collect that surplus heat. Most are 3" outlet.

Waiting for next one 👍 Greetings from Poland 🇵🇱 🖐

Thanks for your video, Sir.

Hey, I'm not a wood gas expect here but I can tell you about clinkers from my experience with a pellet stove in Ontario Canada. Your fuel might be a bit dirtier than advertised? I've found no difference in softwood or hardwood but actually that the more expensive premium pellets are better for making fewer clinkers that glue themselves into the air grates.

I recommend the Fram Ultra Synthetic. It is of the highest quality for a bang for your buck. You may be able to put a longer one than what it calls for the same price, like what I do for my 2001 Chevrolet Impala with 271,000 miles of hard driven miles on the engine. It is not driven hard during warming up process though.

Very interesting!