I made a video about my experiment with 2 AGM batterys and a 600 watt heater.The heater ran for 90 minutes until the voltage got too low to run the inverter. In this trailer the heater only runs about 6 minutes an hour once the trailer is warmed up.So it would be possible to heat off the batterys for about 15 hours. I will try to post a link here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaDFZoKcn8eXp5o

Thanks Roger

Thank you.

I looked at these cheap fridges about a year ago but I stayed away from them because of all the bad reviews. The reviews have been much better lately so when this one was on sale for 210.00 on Amazon I grabbed one. So far so good but the real test will be in the heat of summer.

It is a 30 AH battery. To charge it from dead to full with a 3 Amp charger takes 10 hours. So if it takes 3 hours to charge it back to full after running the fridge for 12 hours, then that took 30% of the power out of the batterry. Running the fridge for 24 hours then took 5 hours to recharge to full so that used 50% of the power in the battery. So with no other source of charging running, this battery should run the fridge for 48 hours. The Fridge is rated at 60 watts, the duty cycle is probably closer to 20%. Thanks for the reply and thanks for watching.

Kincardine is about 4 hours northwest of Buffalo on Lake Huron.On the Canadian side.

Kincardine Ontario Canada

No it comes the way it is. Sorry

This one is for sale $6000.00

This one is 84" long inside with the slide pulled out

I am thinking of selling this one.Need to start my next project soon so something has to go.

Thank you. And thanks for commenting.

When you are in the camper, the tailgate is down and covered by the slide out. So the tailgate cannot be closed.Slideout cannot be pushed closed with the bed in place inside the camper and that would be the only way to close the tailgate with someone inside.The only time the tailgate can be closed is when the slide is closed.When it is closed in the travel position it is full of camping equipment and the disassembled bed so no room or reason for a person to be in there. Long winded I know but trying to cover all the scenarios.

I am just a hobby builder. I build them, go camping and have fun with them and then I sell them as a used RV. So I never take orders I do not want to run a business this is just something I do to have fun and keep myself busy. That being said if I was to sell this one I would want at least 10K. It took me twice as long to make this one as it did to make a composite teardrop. Truck campers are way more complicated than a normal RV to make. I no longer wonder why a truck camper is more expensive than other RV's. It is the extra work involved.

Thank you

I gave up on the board idea for under the bed. I realized there would be too many parts to stow in the main body and it would take a big bite out of the headroom in the camper. I got 3 custom cut foam rubber cushions that are 7" thick for the main camper and 6" thick for the slide out. They get stowed in the slide when travelling and they leave a 47" by 24" by 34" high space to stow your gear. And only takes under 5 minutes to drop in place. But I would have used 3/8" baltic birch plywood because of the nice finish and strength. My newest video shows the bed setup. Click on my avatar to get a list of all my videos. Thanks for the reply.

Thank you.

Hey Steve, really interesting videos. I am looking to do the same. Im down in Kitchener. Where are you getting your composite panels from?

@@bradleylacey836 I make them myself using Fylon fibreglas and styrofoam. I usually buy the Fylon from RV surplus places like Bontrager's in White Pigeon MI. There are some videos where I show how to make the material.Thanks for the comment.

The reason I didnt use the circular saw on the sides of the windows was that I wasn't that comfortable holding it up in the air. So it was just easier to do it all with the jig saw. Doing the second window I drilled the same amount of holes but since I used a solid template I just put 2 bits through along the top edge and then held the template against the bits and just drew around it lined up with the holes. The problem with the jig saw trying to cut both sides at once with this material is the bit starts to bend as you go around the corner and then it just ruins the cut on the other side. The whole process would be a lot easier if the windows came with a paper template. Especially these acrylic windows that have little room for error. All good sugestions thanks for commenting.

I should have been a little clearer about that. The method of making the material will be the same but I am going to eliminate the build table by building a 17' by 78" wide steel platform trailer. This will be moved in and out of the shed as needed and eventually become part of an RV. Thanks for the reply and question.

Thannks for the reply.

This is a specialized camper really just big enough for 2 average adults to sleep in.The rest of the camping gear like coolers and bbq etc would go in to the slide out area and get removed once you are at the campsite. And then set up the bed. So more work than normal but I wanted to make this work first before I try a bigger more traditional truck camper for a Maverick.Using this type of construction a Mavericks 1400 lb payload should be enough for a fairly large truck camper with over hangs for more room.. Thanks for the reply

That is a good way to do it. It is amazing how much Filon this little camper is gobbling up. I will try to get a rough total of how much Filon I have used so far.

Thank you

Thank you

The Givi frame to fit a 2019 t0 2023 Honda CB500X is a PLX1171 according to Givi USA website.

Thanks very nice comment.

Thank you

Thanks for the comment and for subscribing. I am using 3/4" EPS foam to maximize the space inside because the box is so small. By using Filon glued on both sides of the foam it makes a very strong material that does not need any support inside. You could also glue together a foam camper and if all the sides are flat just glue Filon on to the outside with Quad Max. Filon is not that expensive if you can get to an RV surplus store. I get mine from Bontragers in White Pigeon MI. There are 2 other surplus stores in White Pigeon that also sell Filon.Usually between 11.50 to 16.50 a running foot depending on width, colour and thickness.

I hope to get to the slide out in a couple of weeks. It is just going to be a manual slide that will be the same width as the boxes covering the wheel wells and go floor to ceiling inside. The entry door will be mounted to the face of the slide and the slide will have weather stripping where it contacts the main body.The other details I am still working on.

Thank you

I do not discuss price on this forum. Sorry.

I build these as a hobby. I just got back from a trip all the way to Hope BC and back and soon this one will be for sale.

@@steveogilvie5203 Thank you for the reply! I saw one of these builds sell recently on Facebook Marketplace near me, And it led me to your channel! I would love to be on a contact list, and Considered when this model does go for sale! Do you have an email I could reach out through by chance?

@@MasKScarin I usually just sell these on Kijijii, but if you are interested this one has not been put up for sale yet. After 6926 brutally punishing miles I have a lot of crud to clean off and a ding in the tongue box to fix. At the campground in Hope BC my truck and the trailer got a pile of pine tar on them. You can reach me at [email protected] . Thanks for the comments Steve

The first two trailer I sold I considered prototypes. I used them a while and then sold them as used trailers. This one had an asking price of 10k. It sold for less than that. The thing is no matter how well built the trailer is it is still a home made unit and it is hard to get top dollar because of that. Having said that, no one has ever looked at one of my trailers and guessed it was home made.

I have been on a trip tried replying with my phone, did not stick. Anyway, I asked 10 K for this one, it sold for less than that.

Yes this trailer has roof tracks already installed that are made by Thule. They are also compatible with Yakima racks

Yes it already has Thule roof tracks installed and you can install Thule or Yakima racks. I am not that familier with the Thule products but for Yakima I think you need to buy landing pad #1 and then the appropriate towers and crossbars. I have this same setup on my 1991 Civic wagon. They work great.

Why would i want heat in the summer? 1 and 1/2 hour of running a 600 watt heater in the winter in this all season camper equals about 15 hours of heating time controlled by a thermostat because the heater will only run about 6 minutes an hour even at below freezing temps.

@@steveogilvie5203 just to take the chill of in the morning.

@@bossman6174 sorry for misinterperting your comment. i understand what you meant now. Have a good night.

Thanks. Love the wagon, youngest son and I rebuilt it.

Yes, press the three vertical dots to the right that appear when you hover over the video in the video list in the studio. Diesel heaters are really cheap these days, a 2 kw one with integrated fuel tank is less than 100 $ at vevors website. They feature thermostat, remote, timer etc.

@@Fonsan Thanks for the help. I have considered a diesel heater but my trailers are so well insulated that it would be overkill. And the little electric heater takes up very little space plus no ducting required. We heat our full size Ogilite Model 1 (5'11' inside trailer, queen size bed,bath,kitchen dinette etc) with the same heater only running it at 1200 watts using a wall thermostat.Works well even when the temperature outside is below freezing. The model 3's all have a wall thermostat to use when plugged in to shore power as well.

​@@steveogilvie5203 Indeed for summer months I agree but this would open it up to all season camping and much greater autonomy and boon docking. One additional benefit would be that if you only duct the outlet to the camper it would provide forced ventilation when active as well.

@@Fonsan I already camp in the winter, at temperatures below -10C. I agree that below that temp a diesel heater would make sense.Because I am plugged in to shore power at the only campground in my area that has winter camping. But the heater only comes on once an hour even at -10. And for extended boondocking in the winter a diesel heater is best because the weak sunlight(around here anyway) would not keep the battery charged.

Mine are 8" apart centre to centre.