I have an Ar2 where the -5 volts is -6.3 volts. Would this same solution fix the problem?
@jacklick10 сағат бұрын
Have you tested the the -5v under load? If it doesn't regulate under load, I used 1k ohm resister in video, then you should replace the regulator.
@murdoch33962 күн бұрын
You’re a king for figuring this out.. It looks like a pain in the butt job but I really love the old GXa I have with the same issue and am going to give this a try. Thanks so much!
@jacklickКүн бұрын
Good luck. Glad the video helped.
@AnthonyPresley-l8f4 күн бұрын
Never understood why it didn’t come apart into two pieces. Would be much easier to move. I have a spy hunter cockpit that I need to fix that comes apart into two from the factory. Much easier to move
@jacklick2 күн бұрын
💯 it would have been much easier
@waynegram890718 күн бұрын
The BK 866b reads, writes, Tests and verifies JEDEC Files? You mentioned that is does CheckSUMs the JEDEC Files. JEDEC files are only used for GAL chips, not for PAL chips?
@jacklick18 күн бұрын
@@waynegram8907 that isn't quite what I said but my point was the contents of a jedec file is variable so you can't just rely on a simple hash of the data for comparison reasons like rom ident does
@waynegram890718 күн бұрын
@@jacklick When the BK866B READS the Jedec File, what do you compare the Jedec file against to verify if the data comparison matches? In the video you Read the Jedec file but after reading the data how do you test it, you just only did a CheckSum the Jedec File?
@waynegram890717 күн бұрын
@@jacklick Arcade games use ROM chips to store the game code data files but are these considered jedec files or what type of data files are they called on the ROM chips?
@jacklick16 күн бұрын
@@waynegram8907 you can use google or chatgpt. ROM file format is binary
@waynegram890716 күн бұрын
@jacklick the jedec files are binary?
@games2replay18 күн бұрын
Nice work, I wonder if you saw my post on my blogspot about upgrading the psu on my Beeprog+. I ended up using a 15v 4A laptop power supply, anyway I own the Beeprog2 and Beeprog+ but much prefer the + even though it's an older unit. I like that it uses an external psu and doesn't require over priced adapaters for non dip stuff.
@jacklick18 күн бұрын
@@games2replay I hadn't seen your post but will go looking for it or feel free to share link.
@jacklick18 күн бұрын
@@games2replay good to know about adapters as well. Thanks for commenting.
@games2replay17 күн бұрын
@@jacklick notinmame.blogspot.com/2023/06/eprom-programmer-power-supply-upgrade.html It's the Beeprog not + these things have too many names, mine is actually Dataman branded.
@jacklick16 күн бұрын
I think I found your blog believe it is for the 866 aka beeprog not 866b aka beeprog+ I show here. Either way, it is useful !
@Omega_Mark18 күн бұрын
Wow, it looks like new. Nice score. How do you find them? By now even Arcade Jason doesn't have as many programmers as you do ;).
@jacklick18 күн бұрын
I typically find them on ebay but have scored some off of facebook too. If they aren't keepers, I offer them up on KLOV. No need for more than a couple :)
@Omega_Mark18 күн бұрын
@@jacklick This one looks to be a keeper ;). How much do these go for?
@jacklick18 күн бұрын
@@Omega_Mark they don't come up often enough for me to say but I paid 250 for this one.
@Omega_Mark18 күн бұрын
@@jacklick Ok, thanks. Yeah, they were crazy expensive with more than $1000.
@waynegram8907Ай бұрын
Which arcade monitors trim pot adjustments do you have to turn to make the Raster Scan lines become invisible? You don't want to see the Raster Scan lines
@memo61842 ай бұрын
Thanks to you I finally know how the pedal works!
@jacklick2 ай бұрын
Happy to help!
@ryandevan27932 ай бұрын
Can I ask a question? Does anyone know what MCR stands for? I assume the M stands for Midway, but I don’t know what the CR does. I’ve read online that it may stand for Midway Card Rack, but the only mention of this is in a manual for Gorf which isn’t an MCR game, I’ve also heard it stands for MiCRoprocessor, but I don’t know if that’s right either.
@jacklick2 ай бұрын
Midway card rack. Is what I have always assumed.
@waynegram89073 ай бұрын
When you press the RED Button Restore Rejuv Functionity it measures 350vdc for the Remove G1 Short and also for the Rejuv is also measures 350vdc to 380vdc, What is the difference between the Remove G1 Short and the Rejuv because if the outputs measure 350vdc I'm not sure what is the difference. Maybe if you use an oscilloscope it might have a different " test waveform" for the Remove G1 short compared to the Rejuv?
@jacklick3 ай бұрын
Good question. I have a general theory on difference but might investigate that a bit with measurement in my next video.
@waynegram89073 ай бұрын
@@jacklick Sounds Good I can't wait to see it in the next video
@philexile29543 ай бұрын
Go Sencore!
@lasvegasira3 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video. I know this was made a while back, but do you happen to know the value of the potentiometer?
@jacklick3 ай бұрын
I think it is 1k but the manual should confirm. If you need me to check mine, let me know.
@NightyWolf0073 ай бұрын
Emp-20 i have one like that im not able to find in my country an old pc with that kind of port .
@jacklick3 ай бұрын
Any old computer dos, win95, winXP computer should have a parallel port. Check ebay or similar for cheap old laptop w/ parallel port. Good Luck!
@chriz743 ай бұрын
It’s not clear to me what you are doing with those cutoff pots after you get the first blue from rising the G2.
@jacklick3 ай бұрын
Turn them clockwise until a bit of their color shows and you achieve grey image. IIRC you are decreasing the negative bias. Ultimately you want the level of beam cutoff across all 3 guns to be equal.
@chriz743 ай бұрын
@@jacklick the manual though tells to go back to “edge of visibility” once you get a color
@jacklick3 ай бұрын
Yes, it is basically saying set your screen (G2) to minimum to see a color for the cutoff setting/grey scale adjustment process. After you adjust everything and apply a video signal, you will still likely need to turn g2 down a bit more to get the perfect blacks. In this earlier video, I walk through the same process. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXaVhnSsmZimrZI
@chriz743 ай бұрын
@@jacklick Checked the video. I don’t see you going back to edge of visibility. To me that means you go back to black right before a color was shown.
@jacklick3 ай бұрын
@@chriz74 It is in the first step when adjusting the screen control and there is a slightly green screen (the strongest gun and therefore first to present color). Edge of visibility means you see just start to see an image/color on screen. If it was completely dark you could not achieve "Grey" image.
@C64Lover3 ай бұрын
Hello, cheers from Rafał Szyja, author of that PCB, 6502 code and so on, I did actually assemble that PCB by hand too ;)
@jacklick3 ай бұрын
Awesome. Thanks for the comment and for deco multi
@jumpingeneral4 ай бұрын
I turn on my centipede and I can hear a buzzing sound coming from the AR board I think. Or it may be coming from the power brick
@jacklick4 ай бұрын
Probably transformer
@jumpingeneral4 ай бұрын
@@jacklick what can cause that to happen?
@phillipcarter66954 ай бұрын
Awsome
@jacklick4 ай бұрын
Thanks
@phillipcarter66954 ай бұрын
Awsome that help me out Tring to fix mine
@jacklick4 ай бұрын
Glad it helped.
@jumpingeneral4 ай бұрын
U make it sound so easy 😂😂. How ya doing man ?its Jonathan
@jacklick4 ай бұрын
doing great. Thanks
@jumpingeneral5 ай бұрын
Hey buddy it’s Jonathan. Hope all is well👍aka jumpingeneral. What’s new ?
@jacklick5 ай бұрын
Not much new. How about you.
@jumpingeneral5 ай бұрын
@@jacklick hey just picked up a couple cocktails
@dereklytle67195 ай бұрын
Mine was doing the thing at the end and it looked like it was raining sideways, how did you fix that?
@dereklytle67195 ай бұрын
Also I connected the video output on my board directly to the points on a video composite cable but it didn’t show anything, is it because I am using a normal CRT tv with a standard composite cable? Should I do something else to get video?
@jacklick4 ай бұрын
I just adjusted the Horizontal or Vertical Hold.
@jacklick4 ай бұрын
that should work. just hook up gnd and the video out to composite connection.
@filter4now5 ай бұрын
Wow - that's amazing! What's the "rejuv" setting on this device, is that the maximum (hit it with a sledgehammer) to get the CRT watchable until a new one comes in? I want one of these now - don't really have $3k though. Thanks for explaining the more technical aspect - the ratios of cutoff seem as if they would be quite important on newer CRTs and how their circuitry works with the tube. My 34" HD Toshiba the horizontal output is a single chip (SMD) which I DONT like - I prefer discrete components so I can actually fix rather than replace the unit (that seems like what they build new things for - throw them away and buy a new one). I remember my Goldstar monitor in 1998 - got it for $130 it failed paid $40 shipping for warranty repair it then failed completely. (The Horizontal Output pulse was just "1" (High) and it fried the flyback some time later)
@jacklick5 ай бұрын
I am probably slightly wrong but the rejuv function basically releases the full stored energy of the large capacitors all at once vs the low and slower process of the restore functions. It is kind of like a sledge hammer and should only be used if you are not seeing any life on the guns (ie the guns are so contaminated they don't emit enough to electrons to register). I haven't messed with too many newer tubes but agree they are easier to replace than fix.
@chrisdorr57865 ай бұрын
Dude, I can't thank you enough for this vid! Excellent step by step breakdown, fantastic. I was having the same issue, voltages good going into the transformer, squat on the output. Desoldered, cleaned all lugs, trimmed and tinned all connections and bam! Solid. Much appreciated.
@jacklick5 ай бұрын
Glad the video helped!
@operationrestore33085 ай бұрын
Nice!
@jacklick5 ай бұрын
Thank you! Cheers!
@yazansirafi5 ай бұрын
Hello bro i would like to contact you do u have any social accounts
@troytaylor82205 ай бұрын
thanks for the video. I just picked up a cr70 for a good price but it was missing all the manuals, so this helped me field test it while I find the manuals online. Thanks again!
@jacklick5 ай бұрын
Glad it helped
@popculturecreations98526 ай бұрын
Do you work on these?
@jacklick6 ай бұрын
Not by choice. What is the problem you are having?
@popculturecreations98525 ай бұрын
@@jacklick I want to make sure it is working properly! I am trying to see if my picture tube is good.
@jacklick5 ай бұрын
@@popculturecreations9852 in both my videos I do the field test and you should be able to google cr7000 field test and find it. That will tell you if the restorer is working correctly.
@Tig3rj6 ай бұрын
Oh man this thing uses a 3dFX board? Good luck finding any of those around..these cards were the go to card when they first came out in the PC World. We are talking 25 years ago! You could prob hook that video into any old computer to see if it works provided you have the proper slot for it..I believe it was an AGP Slot. ohhh as I write this I see you hooked it up to an LCD screen.. Thing is, you could put any cheap AMD or Nvidia card that would be better..but the problem is that you will get no display cause the system wouldn't have any drivers to run that card since the images to rebuild the drive are old and the OS is locked down I am sure. Most are just Linux builds from what I have seen. This is pretty much a PC that is hooked up to an Arcade Monitor. So fixing these things you have to think like you are fixing a PC than fixing a Coin Op Arcade.
@jacklick6 ай бұрын
Yea, these cards are getting pretty hard to find and as you stated, the boards won't work with anything else. Thanks for the comment.
@encoresarcade6 ай бұрын
This is really helping me. I just picked up both BH2 & CK with issues last week. Hope we get em fixed!! Congrats 🎉on your progress. Will check on klov too!
@jacklick6 ай бұрын
Glad it has helped. Good luck on your repairs.
@delsarcade6 ай бұрын
Are you into vintage PCs? If so, I have a bunch of parts where you can piece together a few PCs. I can bring the bin to Troy's and you are welcome to take it all.
@jacklick6 ай бұрын
Hey Del! I wouldn't say I am into it and appreciate the offer but no need :)I just had this so I could test old ISA device programmers and stuff like that. Since I had an old atx power supply laying around, figured I might as well get it back up and running.
@Omega_Mark6 ай бұрын
Wow, this brings me back:). Dell used this chassis for many years, including the original Pentium. This Optiplex was a staple in my college. All the labs had these. That was the time I first used Windows NT. Some years later I was fixing and selling these on the side:). Remember playing Command & Conquer against my friend on school's LAN. Good times. I still have the CDs :).
@jacklick6 ай бұрын
Yea I have some nostalgia of building my first pc and stuff like that.
@estebanmartinez44106 ай бұрын
Do you have that book on pdf? im searching for it cuz i need it, i do have that cr7000 but not that book
@jacklick6 ай бұрын
which book is that?
@MrEkg986 ай бұрын
I have the v1 software. Waiting on the chip for the latest version.
@jacklick6 ай бұрын
I will need to check mine. What are the changes or improvements?
@buffett19786 ай бұрын
Awesome video as always. i am glad to know the PCB's are working good and i can put other rom sets on them to make new games available to play. it was uneventful but that is not a bad thing, i learned things i did not know and may not have ever known if it was not for your experimentation and teaching of how things work. thank you so much for what you do for this hobby!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@jacklick6 ай бұрын
Thanks for kind words. Btw, I found two more boards I need to test.
@coinacceptorchannel64816 ай бұрын
I have both the labprog+ and the jetprog. Only the labprog+ works on Windows10. Is there a reason for that? And is there a way to get Jetprog to work on Windows 10?
@jacklick6 ай бұрын
This doesn't make sense to me. The same software connect to both jetprog and labprog and i can't imagine the parallel port driver being different. Are you using a USB to parallel port adapter?
@coinacceptorchannel64815 ай бұрын
.@@jacklickI am using a PCI-e to pararallel port adapter that I bought from ebay. It workes perfectly with my parallel port programmers elnec labprog+ and eetools topmax on my Windows 10 computer. It does not however work with the jetprog. I really can't understand why since the labprog+ and jetprog uses the same software. I know the jetprog is working, since when I try it on a XP machine it workes perfectly.
@waynegram89076 ай бұрын
I'm confused when you Strap for the Master Side VS the Slave Side, what is the dipswitches strapping doing? its changing the addressing to the ROM chips or what?
@jacklick6 ай бұрын
It is just jumpers on the adapter. I didn't check but likely video and controls.
@waynegram89076 ай бұрын
@@jacklick So the jumpers on the adapter do some type of scraping/routing for the Nintendo PPU graphics video chip?
@jumpingeneral6 ай бұрын
How’s the game doing today ? I just picked up a cockpit but needs work. Blue screen. No sound. Any suggestions on what could be wrong ?
@jacklick6 ай бұрын
Congrats on your pick up. Start with power and make sure pcb card edge is in good shape or gnd and +5v have been jumpered. Look for battery corrosion and I guess watch some of my videos :) Good luck!
@MagnetBlock7 ай бұрын
My drive just broke today, thanks for the video mate! My day was about to get ruined!
@jacklick7 ай бұрын
Glad it helped.
@MagnetBlock7 ай бұрын
@@jacklick thanks :) I might get to work in the weekend lol
@PHILDOHM7 ай бұрын
Hi I have a GALAXIAN board with no daughter board for the roms where can I get the adapter you are mentioning? By the way thanks to you I can bring life back to a board and a game machine that has sat dormant for years
@jacklick7 ай бұрын
I don't know what section I referred to that in. macros-arcade.com has a galaxian section that covers a multi-game pcb kit, single rom hacks etc. fellow klov member also has a solution www.arcade-cabinets.com/board_hacks/GALAXIAN-DB-R/
@Brandon-gn7zn7 ай бұрын
I'm having the same issue 131 and it's new chip tried you same thing the magic didn't work
@jacklick7 ай бұрын
Did you verify power at the ram chips ( I think I show this in the video)? If they are the original 4116 you need -5v, +5 and +12v at the ram chips. If you have good power to the ram chips, check my joust 131/134 ram error video.
@Brandon-gn7zn7 ай бұрын
Okay im going try that this weekend with volt Meter
@PHILDOHM7 ай бұрын
Hi love your videos best education for me since I am just starting to learn how to repair boards. I am working on a centipede board and I have repaired it and it is up and going on the bench but the trackball just goes to the left and doesn’t move. I tested the movements and they are changing states at the chips and I see .7v to 4.9v from the trackball but still no change and it doesn’t work. Any advice I tested the 74ls191 74ls74 74ls157 40106 and they all perform fine
@jacklick7 ай бұрын
You are in the correct location. I can offer anything additional off the top of my head. Your best bet is to start a repair thread on KLOV. Good luck and report back if you figure it out.
@luckylukev7 ай бұрын
Excellent work. That's one finished and done!
@jacklick7 ай бұрын
Thank you! Technically, I still need to replace the ceramic caps with mica in clock ckt, but I like calling it done too! :)
@luckylukev7 ай бұрын
@@jacklick None of my 15 cabs are "Done", there is always a little thing I could change or clean better, and that the fun part of it.
@waynegram89077 ай бұрын
Most arcade games use Chicklet Style Size Capacitors. Why do they use Chicklet capacitors because the Chicklet must have to do with either the temperature or ESR.
@jacklick7 ай бұрын
It must
@waynegram89077 ай бұрын
@@jacklick I think the chicklet capacitor housing is made out of the same material used for power resistors for stability and heat
@demofilm7 ай бұрын
Down the rabbit hole with nv ram... This kind of research can be troublesome
@jacklick7 ай бұрын
Let me know if find anything additional out.
@classicarcaderepairs48187 ай бұрын
Great job on the PCB build! and programming that NVRAM is weird. I had no idea you could do that.
@jacklick7 ай бұрын
Thanks. Yea, I wouldn't have thought of programming the nvram without clue. I was puzzled why mame had a dump of the nvram...probably so it doesn't error out either.
@classicarcaderepairs48187 ай бұрын
The reason Mica caps are used in the oscillator circuit is because they are extremely stable. Even under heated conditions, they just do not drift, and they are usually more accurate on their value. This affords a very stable, and consistent frequency. Ceramic caps are generally not used in those types of circuits, because they tend to drift, and are very touchy when it come to heat. They are mostly just used in bypass circuits where accuracy is not critical.
@jacklick7 ай бұрын
Thanks for the comment and info. I mistakenly said mylar vs mica in vid. Went down 🐇 hole ... always learning new stuff in this hobby.
@waynegram89077 ай бұрын
Why would a switching power supply causing timing issues of the read/write times for the NVRAM? you mentioned it in the video at time 9:40
@jacklick7 ай бұрын
I linked to the thread that discusses it. It reportedly has to do with how long it takes for 10v unregulated to drop below 8v of zener to trigger write vs how long 5v stays available so nvram is still operational to support the write. In an originall cabinet, there is like a 10k cap on those lines vs on bench it is not. I didn't see the behavior on my bench but also didn't change settings or hs.
@waynegram89077 ай бұрын
@@jacklick yes all arcade games used the big blue 10,000uf to 20,000uf cap, is this what you're talking about that is keeping the 5vdc stay longer on the NVRAM? When you turn ON a switching power supply it should output +5vdc, -12vdc and +12vdc, why would they drop in voltage or have different timing of voltages?
@FrancisJFox7 ай бұрын
Such a fuuuuuuuun game :)
@jacklick7 ай бұрын
Yea hopefully I won't procrastinate too long getting full cab together.
@Rhine_Labs7 ай бұрын
On the Lower Board Location U42 A W27C512 I believe is the ID Chip tell the software that it is a Chipmaster 6000, LAB Tool 48, or Dataman 48 / Dataman 48LV I will have a backup on my site of the Chipmaster 6000 in the next day or two. If you care to share copy of yours?
@jacklick7 ай бұрын
You want me to dump the w27c512 and upload it? Unfortunately, I no longer have this unit but know who does and can reach out.
@Rhine_Labs7 ай бұрын
@@jacklick yes that would be great.
@buffett19787 ай бұрын
Awesome video!!!! glad it was an easy fix!!!!
@jacklick7 ай бұрын
Yep easy peasy. I honestly spent more time troubleshooting my jamma adapter and pvm video cable than the board.
@buffett19787 ай бұрын
@@jacklick that's actually in a good way ironic, i have doe the same thing with building JAMMA adaptors for games as well. PCB test or repair went fast but the adaptor took an hour or more.