Probably it is, but it might be easier and simpler to just replace it with any other cable of same size. You can also shorten original cable just enough to past troubled section

@@mrfxr1695 thank you sir, I appreciate it 🙏

Hmm, that is a tough one now, I can't remember it for sure, it might be Mendip woodland, sorry if not correct

If glass it's blown it will need new one

@@mrfxr1695 its like the one in this video so guess will need new glass.

Hi, I'm not sure if we are about same camera. The one in the video writes on memory card, once card is full camera automatically rewrites over previous recordings. Also it is mains powered, not battery powered

Thanks 👍🙂

Yep, 4x2 sawn and pressure treated

It looked more like a tiralyn coating to me

@mrfxr1695 I have used rendegrip a good few times and it defo looks like rendergrip. Obviously I only going bybwhat I can see

I don't think so, CV joint is bigger than bearing hole

If you've got P0014 code than yes it is possible, but usually bluish smoke would indicate burning oil

@mrfxr1695 yeah think my stem seals have gone all good tho easy and cheap fix to do

I believe so

It's actuator

@@mrfxr1695 is it a geared drive or linear actuator can youvsayv??

@@baburamabadhran1437 not sure

Thanks, you should have five maybe six turns, and you should see either coolant or air coming out. Yes it is quite tight space all the best

@@mrfxr1695 thanks again.

It shouldn't be a massive job

Process of elimination. You can test the plugs for continuity with ohm meter or multimeter, if plugs are good and fuse is good but not getting power during start up then it probably is a relay module. Also can be identified by scanning tool

Sorry, I've never tried it on PC, always used android

It might have solved it that way, but this way is guaranteed. If it fails etting scaffolding and redoing it six months later would be a real pain

Cheers 👍

I can't remember exactly, but I know it was a real blindfold struggle. I think there is a tab on flat side that has to be squeezed in

Good point. You could, but you would have to have expensive equipment for it. It is because there are two sheets of glass stuck together with hot butylene mastic (that's expensive part). You can't use silicone. Also, there is aluminium spacer bar all the way around perimeter and it's filled with silica to absorb moisture. That would have to be replaced as well. In short lines, it is cheaper to get few new units

@@mrfxr1695 Excellent, thanks that helps. I appreciate your response, very helpful.

Simple,cheap enough and works for sure 👍

Great! Problem found is problem solved. All the best 👍

Thanks 👍

I'm not sure, what does it operate? Under dash F3 one should be 5 amp for air bag and pre tensioner. Fuse box within engine bay F3 should be 10 amp for windscreen washer pump. That should be on most of 207 models between 2006 and 2014, but I don't know if there are some exceptions there

Thank you 👍🙂

Muchas gracias por vuestro apoyo. Me alegro de que cada vez a más gente le gusten los vídeos. Saludos 👍

Hi, the engine is mercedes 3.0 V6 om642. I always used 5w-30 and believe it is correct grade of oil for it I hope it helps 👍

Not quite, I just like my fingers 😉

Merci 😁👍

Thanks 👍

Thanks, Combination of few reasons. They are old, it's north side of the house and lack of regular decorating.

Thanks 👍 I'll try in one of next videos

Many thanks for positive comment . I'm glad the video helped. The old drive belt trick is a good one 👍

Thank you for mentioning that, it's nice to know that is not just me. I am genuinely positivity surprised with this kit. It definitely exceeded my expectations

Yes correct, constant velocity(CV) joint spleen of the drive shaft within wheel hub assembly , and they can be stubborn sometimes. So, 45 joules of impact power from demolition hammer makes life much easier 😉

​@mrfxr1695 so why call it a drive shaft

Why not?! Try to type in Google "driveshaft" and see what will come up

Unfortunately customer didn't want booster pump 😐

Plasticiser aerates the pug, so it is making it more porous. By building regs plasticiser shouldn't be used below damp proof course. It's because it absorbs more water thus it's more prone to frost damage and erosion . It is similar story with roofline pug work. Most of cement on the market is enhanced to improve workability anyway. Of mixed right pig will be smooth and creamy. Tbh I've stopped using plasticiser completely on any external work All the best 👍

Yep, pressure was fine, 2.2 bars. Water capacity(flow) was just over 13 liters per minute. This toilet requires a minimum of 20 litres per minute unfortunately. Not many properties in the UK will have that

Thanks

I'm glad it helped 👍

Thanks buddy 👍

Well, it depends on the ground. In some areas of the world earthquakes or perhaps subsidence is taken in count for foundations, but in South East of England they're isn't any danger of it so engineers calculate for concrete accordingly

It does, but very little and uniformly

It is simple, just take your time, don't rush and you'll succeed All the best 👍

Thanks 👍

You can select rapid fire (bump action), then gets surprisingly quick. I've got it now for two years, with no regrets

Your welcome 👍😉