If you bought the same then there should be adaptors. Otherwise, return it for missing parts.

The battery should not be left on the charger once full. I have my bike outside and on a timer to charge from 2-6 a.m. This way, it's off the peak energy hours. It doesn't sit fully charged and on the charger, and when I commute at 6:30, the battery has had time to cool from charging.

Depending on how hard you are on your brakes, but I'm at 1500 miles and expect another 1000. But, I'm easy on my brakes, and when I know I'm coming to a stop, I will coast down in speed.

Thank you for reinforcing what I was saying. Ride safe.

I think it is a good purchase. Baby it and take care of it.

I have never been bothered. Not acting stupid, i don't expect them to bother me. However, I NEVER zoom pass anyone and slow down and greet people.

@@Ridstar_Q20 I see, thanks for the info!

If you know of a compatible upgraded controller then please share the link.

@@Ridstar_Q20 oh yes I learned a lot from my first e-bike I pretty much rebuilt it from the ground up it's not that hard once you do it you just got to know what wire goes where have a wiring diagram of both parts or just the controller at least and make sure controller voltage matches battery you can go a little bit higher but check your controller

@@Ridstar_Q20 but with q20 I have now sometime next year or this year I am going to upgrade it I'm just saving parts in my shopping list I was thinking that 8000 Watt Hub motor with controller the bike wheel is 19 inches or I can get a 3000w same size tire for the bike

Please ensure that your controller is compatible with the new battery when selecting an e-bike kit. For instance, a 48-volt battery would work well with a 48-volt controller, and a 52-volt battery is also an option. However, it's crucial to verify that your controller can support the chosen battery voltage. While the hub motor should generally be fine, I'm not aware of any specific limitations. Some individuals have even successfully used a 72-volt battery and controller without issues. However it's always good to know what is your motor limitations you just got to experiment

​@@Ridstar_Q20I'm building my own battery and have ordered a new gearless motor but I went with a spintend vesc also going 72v

Depending on the steepness of the hill, going over a highway overpass on just electric it will drop it from 25 mph to 15-18 mph. These are the few times that I will pedal and it's no problem with the assistance of the bike to maintain 23 mph. The biggest takeaway is to be gentle with your bike. Ride safe.

I will try to do more to help you understand me. More pictures? Ride safe.

@@Ridstar_Q20 yes pictures it was the first i was thinking of ✌️

😆 The bike is doing great. Ride safe.

They come with tabbed washers, not an arm. A torque arm is a metal bar that extends out from the axle to the frame of the bike and secures to the frame. Ride safe.

​@@Ridstar_Q20mine doesn't have the typical washer one that I find on other bikes or my electric scooters

Thanks

Thank you for the compliment.

Yes, but I would cushion it.

It will be tough.

@@Ridstar_Q20 would my feet be able to reach the ground

1 foot on a lean. Never two feet.

I lived in Germany and Italy for 10 years, they could find a way to tax and regulate everything.

Actually, it is illegal in Canada too. Where I live you are limited to a 500W motor and 32 km/hr (20 miles/hr). They really don't bother you unless you're being an idiot. Then it's an excuse to ticket you/take it away.

In the forum I belong to for this bike, no. I'm my research, they go up in flames when left constantly on chargers (unplug when charged), using other than the manufacturers charger, and when the battery has been tampered with. For safety, other than winter, I charge mine outside for the extra safety. I'm the winter, close to my door to throw it outside and only charging when I'm there. I also have a smoke detector in the room. They tend to smoke before they ignite.

www.amazon.com/Electric-Display-Waterproof-22-2mm-Handlebars/dp/B09WWQD6S1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2DS1PW09ZXAP2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.H2IiswB-njNkjlaKG_5HP-1Lj1dPnqmfGFfuPa3MojQG65kxjetItHPggyS-CT12unX15uS40mYXrIPAICripwGhJbyVNHRlKqaxtfxX9VWO1j_p56KRYFJnganxxwdq9C29GSkGsAEjRNqbRVoYquOBfBkXV3Jvi40wICZFrUUlPyX-ehCS9WSih3Imo1chCT4Y-GVhbA40EJOvPBSNtg.23zO77780gbt4DaxEBT1hnumPma0YkfwVIJhJGLkOD8&dib_tag=se&keywords=s866+ebike+display&qid=1718690521&sprefix=s866%2Caps%2C195&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

@@Ridstar_Q20 thanks dude

Would love to do an update, but the bike we were running them on, the $3000+ Pedal (that's the brand) broke and the company is now ghosting us. So... I will be starting a new set of them this week. Sorry I don't have more on this.

I am going to change them along with some other maintenance and we will see. Without taking them off, it looks like they are still good, but I'm also easy on my brakes with seldom a hard stop and I will coast before applying brakes.

@@Ridstar_Q20 wow ,1400 miles. That's pretty good. I do 12 miles a day when I ride mine to work. 6 miles one way. I'm at 600 miles right now. I've had mine f0r bout two months. keeping an eye on the pads and so far they're good but notice the front pads are getting more worn then the back ones. just wanted to get an idea of how many miles i can get out of a pair. thanks for the feedback. and i think the vast majority would agree with me when I say we appreciate the "how to" videos. so if you wanted to mak more of those, say how to cange your tires, brake pads ect ect. we would appreciate it. thank you for the videos!

​@guitarlessonsbyjoe2336 hey man I'm currently at 1,700 miles on my ridstar and I'm still on the stock brakes. From a visual inspection the brake pads are still ok I'm not sure how much longer I will get out of them but I try to be easy on the brakes as much as possible. I changed my rear tire at about 1,500 miles currently commuting 8 miles to and from work 16miles a day, bike has been great!

Your suggestions are videos I'm doing. The brakes and their life are really dependent on your breaking style. Going easy and coasting to slow down a bit really makes a difference.

It sounds like you are easy on your brakes as well. Braking style has a lot to do with it. I know some people that race race race and then hard brake and the brake pads were done by 500-600 miles.

I agree, uneventful is good.

What tubes did you purchase?

@ChrisBurns24 using the stock tubes, but I put Flatout in them on day one. They are poor quality tubes, and you don't want to overinflate them.

@@Ridstar_Q20do you just buy any type of flat out and apply it when you get the bike to prevent punctures ?

I still haven't seen another with the same power/speed/range for the money. I would still recommend. The Ridstar doesn't seem to have any more or less problems than any other. In my opinion, none of them are built well and you need to be kind to them.

You can still ride it, just know it's a little harder.

Maybe it's because I live in the Rocky Mountains, but riding a smooth dirt path slowly is NOT my definition of off-roading. That's like a Jeep driving on the dirt shoulder of a road - not off-roading just because it's dirt.

I weigh 200lbs and run 20 psi - I'm at 1400 miles but should have changed them at 1100. Ride safe.

😆, watching you pedal would be funny at your height. Enjoy.

@@Ridstar_Q20 thx and I’m not much of a peddler

@@Ridstar_Q20 thats why im buying your guys product

Depends on how fast you want to go. I have to slow down at ramped sidewalks, or the little lip where the ramp meets the road will cause it to bottom out.

Or should I get one with SM plug?

I wouldn't expect the brand to matter. I would return it and try getting another. See if you have a bad unit.

Ok thanks. When I emailed the company about it to refund my money they literally said keep it and they would refund me 20% of the cost. Guess it cheaper than returning it. I’ll try another one later. Thanks again for responding

Glad you like them.