@@chewy6942 No. I'm in the process of building my shop right now and my air setup is as basic as can be.

@@lindsaybrown7357 One thing I keep running across is that I need to order some sprays by the case and I just can't justify that.

@@StuartdeHaro Yes, that’s the problem.

@@guloguloguy Overall, I'd say the dividing head is more versatile, but it depends on what you need to do. It's definitely easier to set up than a rotary table (and lighter too in most cases).

@@thomass7877 Hi Thomass. You should be good in the 25 to 30 M/M range for HSS tools and 2x to 3x that with carbide. Cast iron can be quite abrasive, especially if it is an actual sand casting, but overall it machines quite nicely. It is pretty messy though so be sure to clean your machine afterwards. Thanks for watching!

@@StuartdeHaro Thank you very much for the quick reply.. Does the 2X and 3X speed for carbide also apply to other materials, or is it specific to cast iron? I promise I won't bother you anymore...🙂

@thomass7877 You're not bothering me at all. It applies to all materials. You can actually go a good bit faster with flood coolant.

@ Thank you..

@thomass7877 you're very welcome!

I'm glad. Let me know if you have any questions.

@@WilliamVG I have a video about that too. The formula is RPM x flutes x chipload. The flutes is the number of teeth on the cutter, so you'd have 700 x 8 x .008 = 44.8 inches per minute. Edit: here's the video kzbin.info/www/bejne/npDOiZqtgspgf7csi=pFU23Tpfhg9GV-Mg

@@WilliamVG It depends on the tolerance and the material of the cutter. Carbide cutters get better results with a slightly deeper cut so a finish cut might be .015 to .020" (0.4 to 0.5mm) while HSS cutters do fine with .005 to .010" (0.13 to 0.25mm). Keep in mind that the dials on most boring heads read on the diameter so .010" on the dial is means a .005" depth of cut. For loose tolerances (greater than +/- .002" or 0.05mm) I'll rough in and leave room for at least 2 finish passes, preferably 3 so I can measure between cuts and see how much the bar is flexing. For tighter tolerances I usually save room for at least 5 finish cuts so I can get a good idea of how the bar is behaving. That's really important if you're going for a bearing fit where you have a +.0005/-.000" tolerance (+0.01/-0.00mm). That is exceptionally easy to miss because of flex in the boring bar. There are a lot of other considerations that you might also want to think about. Why don't you send me an email to my channel name with no spaces @gmail.com. I can answer more thoroughly there or we can set up a video call if that works.

@@LaurentiusRuhumba What thread are you trying to cut?

@@FIREGHOST195 An end mill is specifically the kind of tool shown in this video. They are more rigid than a drill and the two tools are not interchangeable. Depending on where you work the type of end mill you need may be specified by the boss or programmer, or the choice may be left up to you. When choosing which end mill to use, I look at the geometry of the part. If there's a lot of material to remove I'll start with a roughing end mill and leave .020" or 0.5mm on all sides, then switch to a regular end mill to finish it. If there is contouring to be done then I know I need a ball end mill. There are too many scenarios to list, but for most work a regular end mill does the job and the only real choice is the number of flutes (cutting edges) use 2 flute cutters where you need chip clearance and 4 flute cutters when you want a better surface finish.

@@brilloestelar1 How are you determining that it is high in the vertical axis? I only ask because if you use an indicator then gravity is acting on every part of that setup, the arm of the holder, the indicator body, the stylus, and the tailstock quill. It will end up looking high because gravity pulls the indicator down towards the top of the quill and down away from the underside. This means it looks like the top is touching more and the bottom is touching less. The quill is more restrained by the body of the tailstock and is much stiffer in comparison so while it is also being acted upon by gravity, the indicator and holder, with all their moving parts, flex a lot more. Anyway, if the error is small it shouldn't be anything to worry about. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!

@@BombsAwayMusic I had to explain what was going on. I had already featured it in all the other videos before figuring out it was different.

@StuartdeHaro I saw the start of the video and ordered 5000 litres of Wd40

@@Storm_Chasers Awesome. Good luck with all your rust prevention endeavors!