Hey was wondering if you have an update on the g-comp kit?

Thanks for the video. There's not much information out there about these front ends. Is there any way you could tell me from ride height center line how far? The spindle moves up before hitting the bump stop. Like how many inches because i'm thinking of converting one of these runnings to air ride.

Do you know where it gets it's signal from is it the switch or the module?

Thank you for sharing this, I've sent it to numerous people chasing 4x4 issues with their truck. On a separate note, any chance you can share the part number for your top post batteries? I also have a 6.5 and want to switch to this style but the guy at my local NAPA claims I can't get them for my truck. Any info/ specs would be greatly appreciated!

Turn the piller blocks around and the retainer will hold the bushing in and shorten the links and that will solve the hitting the arm issue

Simple and Perfect...THANK YOU !

Thanks for the video. Looking at the instructions on their site for the unser version, the sway bar is mounted to that lower cross member in front of the rack. Looking at the universal kit though, it matches how it is there, attached to the top of the frame rails. Seems like mounting it on the cross member would be much easier to fit. Pretty easy fix on the bushings, flip the mounts around so the flange rides against the lock collars. The instructions though make it look like it's not welded up to the rails? Did it come how you have there or did you weld up everything to the rails?

Can you flip the sway bar mounts around so the bushing is held in place with the inner collars instead of the sway bar arms? Also can you shorten the sway bar links to get that rod end slightly below the upper arm?

Uhhh, that's why it's called an "Actuator"

I'm very invested in this setup for my project, and you actually answered one question the speedway's tech guy couldn't, so I'm gonna ask you anther wheaton I've got. How much compression travel do you have left at ride height? Also, what track width kit do you have?

I just received an email that mine will arrive next Wednesday for my 1950 Willy's Crew Cab Project.

shorten sway tube, & tap threads a little deeper. Problem solved

Turn pillow blocks around and mill the arm flat.

Have you done anything else with the kit so far ?

Someone just recommended i go with this setup for my 69 mustang wouldnt even know where to begin installing it

Nice 6.5

dude you are my hero!!!! Thank you for sharing :)

Instead of water use ammonia gas dissolved in water instead for a diesel.

Can't hear much. Volume needs to be boosted!

Your information is so valuable. Thanks man, You're the greatest.

My auger stopped spinning any ideas why ?

I bench tested mine and it works but are you saying because there is no load that it may not work?

This is why marine engines have a prelube pump: fill gallies etc before firing engine. You can do this for an intermittant driver... oil pan needs a threaded bung welded in [pickup point should be about 1" off pan bottom to avoid scavenging any dreck that might collect in pan], and mount your pump as low as you can get it - if that means sneaking it in on a frame rail under drivers side, then do that [your engine bay space will dictate]. Mounting a pump too high may mean cavitation, or... it just won't work. Plumb the output from pump to the 1/4" npt port just above oil filter location on block - INSTALL A CHECK VALVE AT THE BLOCK [a nominal 2 to 5 psi internal preload spring design will ensure the pump does not become an accidental bypass in event of flutter]. You will not see normal system pressure on prelube, but that's not the point - purging air from gallies and getting oil up into pushrods and onto lifters is. A runtime of 90 seconds or so will make your motor very happy most cases. Tubing? Go 1/8" bigger on suction side vs discharge [1/2" x 3/8" or 3/8"x1/4" tubing setup should work fine], and also install a screen type filter on pump inlet, because when it runs, you are bypassing the normal filter - 150 micron or so stainless screen should be fine, but remember the more surface area of the screen, the less trouble you will likely have [roughly 3" to 4" surface area should work for minimal maintenance]. You don't want big volume capability on the pump, just know that something small may need more prelube time. Also important, you need a relay...wire pump power through a lockout relay [using normally closed contacts]: when ignition moves to 'run', power supply to pump should be interrupted the moment relay picks up. Simple diagram to feed pump power should look something like: battery/fuse/switch (and timer if you want)/ relay/pump, then return to frame, where 'run' powers relay coil separately for lockout. Relay coil amperage is usually negigible [1/10th of an amp is common], and can tap off of [non computer] source, fused separately. If you use dpdt relay, the extra contact can be wired for an indicator light to prove when prelube power is on - if it won't light up, a fuse is blown or relay went bad. Stick with pump manufactuers fusing spec [amperage AND type], but if they don't specify... a good rule of thumb is to fuse at 125% of motor full load amps. To pick an example, a "turbo scavenging" pump used for this purpose might be rated at 6 amps, so use a 7.5 amp fuse dedicated to the motor load. If you find you are having to go bigger than 150% to get the thing to run without blowing fuses... it is likely the fuse type to blame: get away from fast/quick fuses, and go to a delay type. Last but not least for all the DIY folks out there are a little foggy on electricals: never use solid wire in a DC/automotive circuit - ever.

Wow that took a while, I have a 305 sbc and at below zero oil flow is immediate to the top end and it idles at 60 psi oil pressure when warm

100% my question answered i have sometimes noise that sounds like partial engagement of the front diff. That would do it.

That thing fires right up!! Nice running truck!

I have 2003 Silverado plug got ripped off got new piggyback plug dont no what wire goes were can someone help

Did you ever get these bugs worked out? Have you been running the system for years without issue? I was just discussing this type of system with my brother in law.

Finalllly i found a video of someone actually testing the actuator, thanks man your the cats ass!

It’s like you got oil flow

High volume oil pump?

question, when the actuator is out of the vehicle should the plunger be in or out ?

i have a question i have an 03 yukon awd when i shift into 4 low the front diff locks i dont always need that so im wondering can i put a switch on the centre wire with no issues ? thx

Know this is an old post, but going through a similar issue. Now power to my actuator, 4x4 fuse is good, new actuator and new t case switch. Upgraded from the old thermal actuator to the electric one. System used to work fine then stopped worked, replaced the above mentioned parts and still nothing. Where should I be looking at next?

Where did you inject you water into?

Whats the point of this?

Oh wow! I totally thought it was a solenoid. Guess it makes sense why it's such a massive part. It's actually a motor and some kind of worm gear setup. Much appreciated!

excelente muchas gracias , Thanks alot excellent

I’ve had a few engines that sat for a long time and I’ve seen one take that long to get oil up top . But truthfully if that was mine and I knew it had sat for a long time I would’ve pulled the distributor and spun the oil pump to prime it so that the rockers and pushrods would already be full of oil on start up . Plus that thing there looks like it way way over due for some fresh oil. My oil that I drain out of my truck with 3,000 miles on it don’t look that bad .

So why the dual mufflers? Love the sound, just wanted to know if there was a reason for two mufflers.

So if i want to run one of these off a stand-alone switch, just run keyed power and ground to the actuator and a switch to ground to activate? Is it really that simple??

Sooooo. Does that mean the actuator works or not? Or did I miss the point of this video?

Can you to explain it, please ???

Would i see oil just from removing the fill cap or do i need to pull the whole cover?

Sitting a year.... dah... The push rods have to fill with oil drop by drop before anything gets to the rockers... That was a good start up with dirty oil.

Need chains. Nice unit.

i think he meant how to finish off a warn out truck.

Awesomee

Thinking of trying this on my truck, but need to figure out a way of supporting the nozzle that is failsafe (there is a flange in my turbo inlet with a 90 degree bend)

Works good