The filter is on top of the unit

It depends on the type of motor the outdoor fan is using. If its a single phase PSC motor, meaning is not connected to all 3 phases and uses a capacitor than it will work. If you have a 3 phase fan motor you need an ICM 334, or if you have an ECM outdoor motor you'll need to use a pressure switch.

@@mechanicalenvironments Yes sir it is single phase PSC motor Thank you very much for your reply help!

Sir, do you have any good solution for Gree inverter units in low temperature environments?

@@mojoc232 I havent worked on a Gree Inverter yet, looks like a side discharge unit. I would start of by making up some wind baffles, gotta stop the cold wind from being able to draw through the coil when the fan is not pulling it through. Not sure if gree makes a set of baffles (check the manual for accessories and low ambient dip switches) but you can make some up out of metal or wood, something is better than nothing. If your getting an error code you gotta dig into the manual's sequence of operations and try to figure out what sensor(s) is responsible for making the unit cut out in cold weather, it's usually an outdoor ambient sensor. Try and insulate it from the wind first but you might need to replace it with a resistor during winter to make it think its operating at its lowest allowed ambient temperature. What kind of fan is on the unit, and how is it wired? If it's just a run of the mill 2 speed ECM motor, a fan cycle pressure switch might be able to work. I'm sure gree tech support has some more good information specific to their unit configuration. But start with the wind baffles like are required on any quality mini split in low ambient insulations.

Boy this is a fun one: I've been chasing this on my top floor units (they are closest to the attic, thus dump the most heat) and I have been through a lot: First, I don't think it's the drain: Drain works and even though the installer put it on the right side of the unit (leaving a small bit of water in the left side by the plug sump) I don't think that is enough to do it. So it's draining. Second: I don't think it's insulation but make sure the holes to the outside are plugged and insulated. Putting a layer of fiberglass insulation between the bottom of the black part and the white bottom trim may help. Third: The water is coming from the *fan* itself, which could mean the unit is clearing a lot of water vapor and it gets blown off the coils before it has a chance to drip down to the pan. You can see the water streaks if you look up and into the unit from where the air comes out. Also I noticed that if I seal the bottom "lip" between the black part and the white trim with electrical tape that water doesn't collect under the unit on the white trim and drip off. So it's coming from the fan area itself (I can also sometimes feel it "spit" a bit of water) What to do? Not sure. I might try lower fan speeds or higher fan speeds to see if that keeps it from happening. Worst part is it's highly intermittent. Right now I'm going to try running it in jet mode to see if it drips, then switch to dry mode at low fan speeds. Also I do have three units on the same condenser (multi zone). It's possible that when the condenser runs all the units at full blast the pressure drops low enough that the highest up unit has a lower working pressure, but I would expect it to simply freeze up. That isn't happening. Also the lower floor 2 units are totally dry with no issues.

@@czperiod2576 i see that this comment was pretty recent, but have you found any solutions? i have a similar situation and am dumbfounded. multiple tech have come out and haven't fixed it either.

@@spicybiscotti I have. Two issues seem to happen: 1) If you have a hole in the wall to the outside and it's not packed (especially if near attic) warm air can come in and condense against bottom of unit. Ergo water drops. Also put some insulation under the lip there. 2) If the unit is really in a humid place and runnning at high fan speeds it can blow the water off the evaporator fins and into the output airstream. Now there is a lip between the white trim and the black part of the AC unit. What I think happens is water is spit out by the fan at full speed, runs down the black part, then hits the little crack of the lip and goes *UNDER* the white trim. Then it accumulates there and dumps. Try either putting electrical tape across that seam, removing the lip, or running the fan at a slower speed (so the water on the coils drips down instead of being blown out) and see if that helps.

@@spicybiscotti I've pretty much figured it out. What happens is when the coils load up with water they drip down into the pan. HOWEVER if the fan is running at full speed it can blow some of the water through the coils before they hit the drain pan. Thus water drops come out the air exhaust and land on the plastic lip. Then they drip down to where the outside (white) plastic is, go through that little crack, and pile up under the unit. Then when it gets full it dumps down the wall. So not the drain, and not condensation under the unit. Solution is probably to re-design the unit or something, or not to run it at full fan speed when it's seriously humid. Try it and let me know if this works for you. Works for both of my problematic units located on the top floor of the house where it is the most humid.

Did you find it ? Is your unit also way off on temp ?

You have to get a rivet gun

How much did you invest

Right, this facility has a glycol adding system but that’s about it for water treatment/fill. The CGAM is a nice machine, this chiller went out on alarm for low water flow a couple times, of corse they reset the unit and keep it running… This system also has strainers under insulation all over the place that all need cleaned, but they don’t want to take the building offline to clean them all, as there is no redundancy in the pump room.

@mechanicalenvironments that is typical, no backup, and no, you can't turn it off to work on it 😆. These are nice machines. Just keep a few sensors handy. You'll need them.

The customer made the choice on how they wanted to deal with this unit. We made them aware of the situation and risk that comes with this type of repair. We offered a new condensing unit, a coil replacement, and this emergency repair. They chose to go this route as they needed the unit running ASAP. Communication is key for this situation, as it's not my decision to make. It is ultimately the customer's decision. I made sure to leave the coil mount points intact to help support the coil and minimize vibration. I suspect leaks at the bottom of coils, like this, are often caused by aggressive cleaners not properly rinsed off, meaning the entire lower section is potently compromised and may leak again. This is something we made sure the customer is aware of. The restriction in the filter drier could also return, as it may be oil break down, compressor damage, or debris in the lines from install. But again, I can't force someone to buy a new unit. As the word moves deeper into A2l and SEER 2.0, the match up components are getting harder and harder to get, meaning repairs like this are going to be the only repair option for many customers here shortly. This may be colorado, but this unit is not gonna get any days off, we service the indoor agriculture space.

@@mechanicalenvironments ah ok I would think indoor agriculture would have more money for things like this, but I digress it's a slippery slope. Nothing wrong then if you explained it to them covered yourself with other options you recommended. True that money is going to be a stickler going forward.