Trust me, it was not easy because my hands were not small enough to fit in such a tight space. If you have some small angled Phillips head screw drivers those should work. They worked for me. Good luck!

I’m 45, but my grandfather used to work on some of cars from the 60s and 70s. I got a chance to sit and play around in a few of them.

Don’t mention it bro! Just trying to help people out with a cheap and easy alternative.

Go check out the other video that I have explaining how to implement the eraser. The eraser will hold the blend door lever in place.

It doesn’t matter “Gavin”, long as it works! I’m not here to impress you, I’m here to help those who want help. I bet this “lazy work around” as you so eloquently put it, gets the people temporary and in some cases, permanent results. Thanks for the HATE though buddy… believe me, it is GREATLY appreciated…😆

I would check to see if you can find a “through way” or a quicker access route to the actuator. Hopefully, bigger enough for your hand to fit through and determine whether or not you can perform the same process as the one shown on the Vic. Don’t know much about Lincoln’s, but I’m sure there is an easy fix. Just explore the possibilities bro! You never know, it may be easier than you think! Let me know how it turns out. If I figure something out before you do, I’ll make sure to post it here. Good luck!

warm drive side cold passenger side...that is a sign you need more coolant added to the system

Heat and cool are controlled by the actuator switch that I’m referring to in the video. Flip the switch to the left for cool, right for heat. If you’re changing out the actuator or wanting to perform the steps in the video it can be found on the passenger side upper left of the glove compartment or directly behind the airbag off to the right a bit. It’s pretty easy to access. Hope that answers your question.

You’re very welcome! Glad I could help!

Man listen, I totally get it! That’s why I do it. Everybody can’t just up and drop thousands of dollars on repairs after paying thousands on the vehicle. We do it when we can, but if it makes sense to “jury rig” it until then, hey!

Jerry

Not a problem! That’s mainly what I do, just providing folks with a quick fix here and there.

@@bullcityoulboy919 We appreciate you for that. I live in Miami we need AC down here the heat is brutal.

Well, not everyone feels the same way as you, but I really appreciate the ones of you that do!💪🏾💯❤️

Why exactly are you not able to switch it back to heat?

I can’t figure out how I even switched it to cold I just kept watching your video until I lucked up

@@michaelhopson7990 the “blend door lever” is simply the switch that changes the temperature from hot to cold. If it’s switched on to cold now, then simply flip the switch to the right and you should began feeling your heat. The eraser trick only ensures that the lever will lock in place to one side temporarily. So over the course of time you may have to repeat the steps to get the lever to stay put on the cold setting. But as far as the heat is concerned, I’ve noticed on my vehicle that by default the lever rests on the heat side automatically, even without the lever mechanism installed. So for the heat remove the eraser and switch it to the left, it should stay in place all season. If not, use the eraser trick for the heater position. During the hotter seasons switch the lever back to the right and replace the old eraser with a fresh new one, provided it’s been cut as explained in the video of course. The erasers of course get worn over time due to the heat from the engine. You should be good to go! If not, let me know and I’ll personally walk u through it.

If you can hear the fan blowing, but it's not coming out of the front vents (instead, the Defrost / floor) you need to replace the EATC o-rings. You might also have a bad blower motor speed control relay if the fan speed doesn't respond to the control wheel. Actuator only controls temperature.

Yes I did.

Absolutely, I may make another video implementing the light…

Excellent idea!

I don't remember what was used or how, but basically, there is an old video that shows that but I cannot find it. There was a cable attached with a t-handle that was under the dash.

Thanks!😊

I love these types of comments! You totally get it!

@@bullcityoulboy919 I owe you one bro lol

Read the title…

Maybe he did, maybe he did not. But, you making an _assumption_ and then stating it as fact shows _YOUR_ lack of character.

@@bullcityoulboy919 If the unit is damaged so that the actuator pivot (gear) can not move the lever, your video idea will not work. But, the closest screw can be removed, then the unit can be pushed up until the metal lever can be moved. The L part of the metal lever pointing toward the dash = heat, and pointing toward the unit = AC.

@@philgar7786 That’s a great idea!

@@bullcityoulboy919 I got my 2006 Marguis under 2 years ago. The actuator was not working when I got it. It's on AC. Since we have more summer than winter, it was not so terrible without heat for two winters. But, I am going to fix it before next winter, because that still did suck! What I already mentioned, the unit will have to be pushed up very hard! It may break 1 of the other tabs on the unit. As long as no more than 1 screw hole is broken that the unit screws into, no big deal. Even two will be enough to keep the new unit in position, _but I don't think it would be good to break 2 screw holes/mounts!_ When you look at a replacement actuator, you can see the top is held in place by 2 push-on tabs, on each side. I guess the OEM is the same? So, I am going to use a flat-head screwdriver and try to lift off whatever tabs are the nearest and then split the actuator in half... hopefully. :-) Then, maybe I can just pull the top half off/out? I'll see how that goes. If that works, my goal will be to try and reach the other screws by feel. I should be able to get 2 of the other screws out, so risking breaking the very back tab and/or screw hole/mount will not be a big deal. With the bad unit out, (breaking it or whatever), there is also the trick of just loosening the back screws like a 1/16 of an inch, then cutting part of the back screw hole tabs off a little on the new unit, just enough to be able to _slide_ the new unit in place against the screws, then secure it firmly with the closest screw. _ANYONE READING THIS: GET THE VERY BEST NEW UNIT YOU CAN FIND!_ No one wants to do this again anytime soon! I guess the best unit will be the dealer OEM part.

Read the title...

Especially that part the states, “after the actuator removal”... So yeah, pretty much making a manual hot and cold, a cheap fix until someone is able to have it repaired or if someone just enjoys a cheap fix.

De Nada bro! Just trying to help out where I can.

Actually, at the time of this video my actuator hadn't been removed yet. This video is for people who have already researched how to remove the actuator and have done so already.if they are even able to remove it themselves. Those who get it do, and those that don't get it, end up making comments like you. Either way, thanks for the comment and good luck with the next video.

Glad I could be of service!👍🏾💯

Ion get it I got a 96 town car same problem just replaced ac compressor and bought actuator

You really wanna bring assaholicness to my channel. I help more people than I piss off with my 4 minute display. If you have a problem with 4 minutes of “slow people techniques” go find a quick asshole to torment. We're busy helping the unfortunate few that can't always afford an expensive mechanic’s service, but would rather settle for a quick fix until they can afford the repairs. More people understand what it is that I'm doing than not. So take your wise crack ass comments to someone else's channel that better explains things for you “smart guy.“

Hey, this totally worked! Thanks for sharing!

Thus the reason for watching the 2nd video. It explains what to do further. That is, “for people who just want to take the cheap route”… at least until they can get it replaced. Not sure where you’re from, but where I’m from money don’t grow on trees and we can’t always just jump up and say, “Hey, I think I’ll just get my actuator replaced today.” Some people are struggling financially and need a quick fix until things get better.

All I do is push some napkins into the gap under the blend door which prevents it from moving, then if I want heat I take it out and make a sharp right turn

​@@Mr-kg5ij😂😂

No problem!

Unfortunately, it does because the “blend door lever” seats itself inside the plastic “boot” of the actuator. Once the actuator is removed, you'll recognize the “boot” that I'm referring to. This process should also get you familiar with the “blend door lever”.

What chime are you referring to?

@@bullcityoulboy919 I'm an idiot! I was looking for how to turn off the annoying ding ding ding tutorial, n got distracted by the blend door tutorial

@@6235dude 😆 Well, I hope that I was able to help you out in some way.

@@bullcityoulboy919 the seatbelt chime. Actually I found a tutorial for that, n it worked fine. But there's still a ding ding for other notifications. I don't want to hear ding ding ever

Don't mention it bro! I'm just tryna save folks some money.

I been trying do.mines