We covered a lot of territory, but I believe that section was Little Trace Branch Road, off Luner Road....but I could be mistaken.

@@blackrocknissangreat video! looked like a really fun trip.

@@kentuckianaBroncos Indeed - It was a blast!!

Sadly, the rear camera doesn't have the resolution of the front - and with the limited field of vision caused by the bedrack and tailgate, it's been hard to find good footage of RokkeOverland to incorporate. I say all that simply meaning I sincerely wish there was more because you dominated out there! Let's not forget that one deep mud pit you muscled through! 😜

Definitely some deep stuff - but loads of fun that Red Beast would no doubt dominate!

It is an absolute BLAST! While there are faster cars out there, this thing is still stupid quick and a vehicle you have to pay attention when you drive it. As funny as it is, I needed a vehicle to get around to pick up parts and materials to get things done around the house and the garage, specifically right now - getting the Frontier back on the road!

Could you send me your email or contact me through my email?

I'd be thrilled to run it with you! Without question it's one that must be checked off the list!!

It absolutely makes sense why people believe that way because that was my original thinking as well. All this taught me there were two things that got missed. First, the aluminum screen is so much thinner, it doesn't take up anymore space than the oem unit. Second, is the need for the straightener. Generally speaking, turbulence has a greater restrictive impact depending on the amount of physical restriction. Acknowledging the presence of either the oem straightener or aluminum units take up space and reduce a certain volume of air that would be entering the intake, my experience and testing (to include use of a manometer) demonstrates (further supported by the fact Nissan has a straightener built in to begin with) that the turbulence generated causes greater loss in air air volume than the physical presence of a straightener. In fact, the upgraded aluminum straightener has less physical presence and still able to mitigate turbulence which is why it is able to increase fuel economy. Guys have tested their trucks with the straightener removed - I am one of those individuals. Looking at objective measures, there was a slight loss in fuel economy with the straightener gutted. Subjectively, the truck lost some low end power which returned with both the oem and aluminum units. So at the end of the day, nothing supports gutting the straightener. But what I tell guys and would say to you, measure your fuel economy for at least a few months if you have not done so already. Gut your oem unit and then take note in how the truck runs and continue to record fuel economy. After recording for a few months, come back and communicate your results. The only way to grow knowledge is for guys to talk about this stuff, but do so beyond speculation and opinion. That's why I waited 4 years before even bringing this to the community - I wanted to test my data, repeat it with other vehicles. I wanted to speak to what others discovered with their trucks, not just mine. As I have openly admitted, this "mod" does not work for everyone. So far I'm convinced the intake needs a straightener - whether it is oem or an upgraded aluminum version. However, maybe there also needs to be more done with running without any screen as well....I'd love to see what you discover!

As long as the warm weather stays put, getting the work done won't be too bad. However, I've got grading work fixing to start, so going to need the driveway cleared which is going to delay things.

How much is that transmission from the 2019 selling for?

@@thedude828-ed2nn Got it for $1100 off ebay, shipped. Arrived on a crate with torque converter attached to bellhousing and dipstick removed (ports plugged on transmission). Appeared unwashed and presentation seemed to be what I would expect from a 2019 transmission w/57k miles. Got it from user "Stoystownauto" though I don't know they have any others available currently.

Should be in my info (About/Profile) - It appears to still be there. Let me know if it does not show - want to make sure an update hasn't hid it. [email protected] It's an old email I've had since my Maxima days - it's okay to make fun! LOL! If you do not get a response confirming receipt of the email - I will always respond with a confirmation - then message here to let me know so I can make sure to take extra care going through my spam. I do go through my spam, but it's possible I could miss something legitimate.

Yes. There were a few guys documented on the Club Frontier Forum (not Facebook) page who had ran without a straightener. I also ran without a straightener for a good while until confirming I had plenty of clearance for the 90mm throttle body. After looking at my fuel readings during that period of time, my economy fell slightly. Personally, I didn't "feel" that it had as much power on the bottom end, but it was very small and could be argued the ol' butt dyno wasn't calibrated properly. LOL!

For those who come after: realized that it can just be hammered out.

It's all in the magic of editing! Sometimes it's tricky finding just the right place to cut footage.

Full Aluminum bumper by Hefty Fabworks (Chris Hefty). I need to do a video...still need to do a walk-around of the truck and talk about all the mods. So many! LOL!

It's hard to diagnose something by description and without audio/video. However, based on your report of a "chirp", it seems more likely to be sway bar bushings or possibly the lower strut bushings rubbing against the insides of the bracket where it bolts to the lower control arm. There is a "barb" on the inside of that bracket which grabs the bushing and will tend to tear aftermarket bushings, so that may be something to check. I would recommend grinding that barb off, I believe most people do! Good luck!

Email me and I will get you on the list.

Anyone reached out to him?

I understand and am still learning about capturing things in videos. The reason starting and demonstrating the vehicle running didn't seem important was due to the fact the vehicle was running prior to the repair. For this specific vehicle, the problem with the cam sensor plug coming loose or disconnected was random - it could be days or a couple weeks before the plug would vibrate loose again. At the time, my thinking was that showing the vehicle running didn't prove anything and therefore not helpful. This is something I will keep in mind for future videos. I can confirm there have been zero issues with this Xterra since the repair - no engine stumbling, stalling, or ecu codes. It is a close friend's vehicle they still own and daily drive. This is the same Xterra shown in other videos I've done repairs to.

Great insight! Installing an air straightener after the air filter "can" have benefits IF IT IS demonstrated that the air is significantly turbulent that it disrupts the ability of the MAF to read properly. I believe such a scenario would also support the turbulent air being considered a restriction to intake airflow and so a straightener would absolutely benefit the setup. However, I have no evidence to support that the air is sufficiently turbulent before the MAF to suggest a straightener would be beneficial * on a stock setup. But I have not personally tested this. I do not see any negative from testing this theory. I'd be thrilled to see you run the experiment and then get back to the community with your findings! Now, if we are talking about a larger diameter intake pipe, such as 3.5" or 4" then I would argue a straightener should be used to minimize/eliminate turbulent air within the larger volume entering the system. I would also recommend use of a bellmouth - assuming you would be running a cone filter at this point, but I believe there would still be a portion of the air, particularly in the middle, that would remain more turbulent (where the MAF reads from) and why a straightener would help/be needed. In fact, given that I am running a custom made 3.5" intake on my truck, I do have one of these aluminum straighteners a before the MAF - at filter end of the intake tube. But it was installed from day one, so I've never tested the intake setup without the straightener at this position. Again, I'd be thrilled to see you test it out and let us know your findings! This is how we learn about our vehicles and where innovation starts!

That ultimately depends on your skill and comfort level. Have you ever done a rear end before? Are you familiar with setting gear mesh and backlash? If so, then yes you can. If not, and you don't have tools for it (like for replacing the bearing and measuring backlash, etc), then I would not suggest someone tackling this. Now. If your bearings are good and you are JUST installing the LSD, you could get your original pattern (take images) and then install the LSD exactly how the oem carrier came out. Check the pattern and as long as it is close, run it. The problem is going to be if the pattern is way off for some reason, will you know how to correct it? It took the shop I used about 5 hours to install mine at $500. Personally, it was money well spent for the knowledge and time saved. It would have taken me 3x that to get it done and I still would likely have messed it up - destroying my gears in the process. This was not something I had the financial means or the time to learn how to do it myself.

I appreciate that! I'm presently extremely satisfied with the LSD. If I do anything else drive train wise, it's going to be either adding the Atlas transfer case and/or solid axle swapping. If you've not posted it on the Facebook Nissan Frontier/Pathfinder/Xterra For Sale page, that is a good option to find a buyer.

@@blackrocknissan that's cool I figured I'd let you know I am gonna post it on the Facebook club along with my old axle. 👍

That sounds MUCH better! LOL!

Factory gears: 3.36

3.36 c200k? I thought the c200k came 3.13

@@leonjulian1079 I wish I could post images here as I have a chart for the final drive gear ratios. Based on information from reliable sources, it is the 2wd (automatic) version of the c200k with the 3.13 while the 2wd (manual) came with the 3.54. The 4wd (automatic) c200k had the 3.36 and the manual version had the 3.69 final drive. I've yet to find anything to contradict that information aside from the fact I believe this applies only to the Frontier, not Pathfinder or Xterra platforms. That's certainly an area I've never personally dug into - so it may be that gearing is similar for those.

@blackrocknissan I'm pretty sure only the pro 4x came with 3.36. I've never hears if a c200k with 3.36 stock. The m226 rear is what the pro 4x has.

@@leonjulian1079 It gets very confusing. Here is a publicly listed breakdown of gears between the various Frontier options (available on Club Frontier): XE KC 4x2 5M C200k 4.083 XE KC 4x2 5A C200k 3.692 SV/SE KC 4x2 6M M226 3.538 SV/SE KC 4x2 5A C200k 3.133 SV/SE KC 4x4 6M M226 3.538 SV/SE KC 4x4 5A C200k 3.133 SV/SE CC 4x2 6M M226 3.538 SV/SE CC 4x2 5A C200k 3.133 SV/SE CC 4x4 6M M226 3.692 SV/SE CC 4x4 5A C200k 3.357 NISMO KC 4x2 5A M226 3.133 PRO-4X/NISMO KC 4x4 6M M226 3.692 PRO-4X/NISMO KC 4x4 5A M226 3.357 NISMO CC 4x2 5A M226 3.131 PRO-4X/NISMO CC 4x4 5A M226 3.357 SL/LE KC 4x2 5A C200k 2.937 SL/LE KC 4x4 5A C200k 3.133 SL/LE CC 4x2 5A C200k 3.133 SL/LE CC 4x4 5A C200k 3.357 While it does not get as specific as SV or PRO4, my 2016 Factory Service Manual further confirms the above final drive ratios. For example, simply reading from my FSM, it indicates that VQ40 (automatic) models for 2wd come with 2.93 or 3.13 vs 4wd come with 3.13 or 3.36. For reference, this information can be found in "TM" on pages 386 through 388.

I think this is the only thing you can get for the ck200

@@MrLadiesman831 well, that would make that decision pretty easy then, huh 😂

Thank you for joining! I've got two prior videos on the initial testing and functionality of the LSD. You pose a great question! So why the LSD over other options? There are alternatives. You could add an ARB airlocker. Zepka/TRE 4x4 Productions lists an e-locker. However, last time I spoke to them, TRE had not actually developed one. That was a little while back and I have not contacted them again. You can upgrade the entire rear end to the 226 (Dana44 variant) as comes in the Pro4 models and has a factory e-locker. I believe there is also a lunchbox locker available - or was at one time. I wish I had a simple answer for you. So I'll answer it like this... I prefer an e-locker over an air locker due to the increased simplicity and reliability. I KNOW that is debatable, but what is not debatable is that the more complex something is, the more likely some part of it can fail and cause the system to stop functioning. That is an airlocker, it's got a lot more complexity to it. Additionally, because I have not been interested in regearing, swapping to the m226 has not been an option for me...at least not at this time. Assuming there is an e-locker available for the c200k, is it better than the LSD? It depends on the situation (and my reasoning would apply the same in comparing an airlocker). Running a locker, you can only use that under specific situations such as off roading or low traction and low speed situations. If you were to use the locker during normal driving, you would bind the rear end, cause undue wear on your tires, and risk losing traction around corners (especially when the road is wet). But when engaged, you truly get an equal 50/50 distribution of power to the rear wheels! With the LSD, it is constantly active. Not only does it allow the vehicle to make turns during normal driving without locking up one wheel and causing the rear end to spin out, but if there was a sudden loss of traction to one wheel, the LSD will activate before traction control. Also, when off road, the activation is automatic. So there is no need to wire up an air compressor or electrical wiring and flip a switch to turn it off/on. The biggest down side to the LSD is that when activated, it will not provide an equal 50/50 split to the rear wheels like the locker will. Rather, it's more like 70/30. However, I suggest you go back and watch my second video where I test the system in my driveway, and I am able to spin my 35" tire that is still on the ground, while the other rear tire is completely lifted. So if the wheel on the ground is only getting 30% power, it's still plenty enough to be effective and is significantly more than zero which would be the case if you were still running the stock open differential. So I chose the LSD because it functions across all areas of driving, simplicity of installation, and also for durability. The Torsen-style LSD is mechanical, it's gear driven and is widely known to be the most durable and reliable system - which is why they are used in race cars and off road vehicles. The LSD is also going to be about the same as an e-locker, but cheaper than an air locker. Perhaps the biggest or only downside the LSD is that you cannot regear lower (numerically higher). As long as you're not running larger than 33", you'll be fine. The reason I do as well as I do running 35" is because of my mods and being UPREV tuned.

@@blackrocknissan that makes sense. I was really into it for my 3rd gen until that last part. I run 35’s currently and want to regear to a 4.08 at some point, so it sounds like it’s not going to work for me. I’ll go check out the other videos. Thanks for taking the time to answer. I appreciate it.

​@@4wdAdventurznah it won't work for you you have the 3rd gen I believe they are all m226 just no locker in non pro4x models.

Check the description of the video, I posted a link for the limited slip. I spoke to Chad earlier today and they were working to get it finalized on their website. So it may have not been registered in their system yet or searchable. However, they are in stock!

Thank you! Yes - these headlights are sold on eBay and Amazon. A search for your model year and "Frontier headlights" or "projector headlights" should give results. However, these regularly go through periods where they are out of stock, so do not be surprised if you search and cannot find any available.

Inside the vehicle, Blackvue 900 (I believe it is a 900s) dual channel (front and rear). Otherwise I use a Gopro Hero3 mounted to the front bumper or Hero8 handheld - outside the vehicle.

Absolutely - That red clay, when it doesn't have a lot of rock or sand in it, is like ice when wet. It is my understanding that Trail Maintenance has since dumped rock on this hill in the last few months to promote traction and keep Trail 22 classified as Moderate.

@@blackrocknissan clay makes it twice as bad. Even on flat land clay turns your tires into basically marbles. Marbles and hills don't go good together, I think you'd be better off with snow.

There is actually. An innovative guy on the Facebook pages, Matt Moo. Check for his thread on Nissan Frontier Club (dated November 5, 2021). He details everything you need to wire up a way for the fogs to not only remain on, but still be controlled by the fog light switch. I have ordered the parts to build this myself, based on his information. However, with work and other time limitations, I've not yet had the chance. But this is absolutely on my "to-do list." I was just looking at these components yesterday. It's not an expensive mod. He estimated $35 in parts. I'd say that is about right - or less.

@@blackrocknissan nice. Hoping you do this as in the future I will want to do it as well. What brand are the headlights you got from eBay?

@@AlexSagisi They are sold under a few different names = different sellers. However, if you look at the lens upon receiving them, they all say Eagle Eyes. So it really doesn't matter the seller, you will get the same headlights, just do what you can to get the best price possible.

@@blackrocknissanthanks.. I wasn’t sure if it was a specific one since you said version 2. But yes I seen all the different brands but same product. Thanks. I’ll be watching this video again when I get them

@@AlexSagisi Ahhh - I see. There are indeed two versions of these lights. If I remember correctly, the original version made available were initially referred to as the c-mod lights as the LED formed along the top, bottom, and outer edge (3 sides) of the lights. Sort of a C shape on the passenger side and reverse C on driver side. So I referred to this design as "Version 2" because it only has the LED on the top and bottom (above and below the headlights). If I am not mistaken, they are both still made by the same manufacturer (Eagle Eyes) but sold/distributed by a couple different sellers. Both versions are still available from time to time - they do tend to sell out fast.

I'm actually about 7 months behind on videos. So this particular trip to White Rocks was without the LSD; before I had it installed. Regretfully, there will be a few more off-road videos pre-dating its install. However, ADO will be releasing the LSD here in the next few weeks (spoilers) and I have an update video coming out demonstrating some off-road activity with the Torsen installed and playing a critical role - including a more recent trip back to White Rocks where I busted a front axle! In a nutshell, this LSD has been fantastic!! It's significantly boosted the capabilities of this truck!

@@blackrocknissan that's great I was thinking about waiting for it to come out but I ended up axle swapping to the m226 I just couldn't wait that long for it to come out. But anyway I'm glad there's gonna be something else on the market for the c200k because a lot of people have it and don't really have any options to make it better.

The stock straightener has been challenging to obtain as the yard that tends to have them is 1.5 hours from my house and does not always have them. Plus building them in my free time. I strongly encourage guys to build their own. But if you don't have the resources, you can email me and I can put you on the waiting list.

Hefty Fabworks aluminum.

What kind of paint for the body? Looks sick!

@@armandoarroyo The body has been Raptor Lined.

Thank you!

Great feedback - Thank you!

@@blackrocknissan just trying to help if I can.

Got signed up. 😀

@@redbeastadventures Thank you!

As captain, if you don't see me, something will be all kinds of wrong! LOL!

LOL! Yes - Tornado intake! Manufacturers still sell products like that and people still buy. Fact is, I know that is exactly how a lot of people see this modification. I don't blame them. So what makes this different? - This replaces a factory straightener in the same location, not adding something extra to the intake. - This is specific to one platform, one engine (VQ40). Not something generalized. This was an accidental discovery to begin with - and other engines don't have straighteners behind the throttle body. - I am continuing to request fuel economy info from people using these and documenting the data. So far, I've had one person report seeing absolutely zero improvement despite expectations. - This is repeatable, duplicated, and documented knowledge I'm sharing for free, making it extremely clear that this does NOT work for everyone and improvement varies. - Most of all.... I'm not trying to sell anything and so I have no investment in convincing people of something. I encourage people to build their own if interested. I genuinely wish someone with more resources and knowledge would take a VQ40, perform flow tests, and gather data in a "laboratory" setting. All I've been able to do is measure fuel economy changes and intake air pressure at certain points in the system using a manometer. But running the manometer has not been done in a controlled environment so....

@@blackrocknissan Completely understand. That Tornado was before the manifold and an airbox isn't sealed volume like a bottle. You should work with @z1off-road to sell this as the final piece of their new throttle body mod. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWqbfZaDp7atiq8

As I recall, I used the simple hack of a large socket (just a size or two larger than the bushing), run a long bolt with a washer through the center, then add a nut with washer on the other side - against the bushing. As you tighten down the nut, it will squeeze the bushing through and out the other side, into the socket. Or at least to the point you can just pull it out. Installing the new bushing is done essentially the same way, but you don't need the socket as much. At least not to get it started. Something that tends to get missed - I know I have when doing this job - is grinding off the "barbed" protrusions on the inner portion of the lower shock mount/lower control arm. These dig into the bushings and can tear/destroy them prematurely. So take a file or CAREFULLY with an angle grinder and take those down then spray a coat of paint for rust prevention.

@@blackrocknissanthanks!!

Just saw your forum post. Been out of cell service this last weekend and only now getting caught up. I responded there, but for others who may see this, it appears you have demonstrated that reports the rear rotors are identical between vehicles is incorrect. The Pathfinder rear rotors are indeed larger by the measurements (images) you posted. This means the caliper brackets are different. The calipers are also likely different. Thank you for showing there is a difference and posting good info about it!!