I missed what you did with the round white piece. Is that to sit the crucible on when smelting? I just got this model. I appreciate this video, good stuff!

Nice one ❤

Step 1- light it Step 2 - add kindling

I’ve watched several other set up videos. Absolutely everyone says the oxygen tank vale has to be open all the way due to the valve design. ( yes the main valve, not pressure ). Also everything in your video is mirrored which will make it very difficult for a rookie to fully grasp your actions.

it is hard to see from these angles, but it looks like you might have some difficulty if you need to remove the tailstock

Great video. How have you got on with the unit regards durability since you uploaded the video? I’m looking to purchase one.

I just bought this tool but it only goes as far as 3inch circle angle Is there any way to get the angle of 2.5 inch circle using this tool?

wondering why once you got the lathe close to bench you didnt slide the leggs back so you didnt have to push on it because leggs hit the wall..I've done it a couple times with my cherry picker moving engines around to get on bench against wall..for good measure i put a 4 45lb weight plates thru a chain hanging from from piviot point on crane arm..probly dont need em for balance but i feel better doing it..

Is it OK for me to leave it in the oven at 300 degrees instead?

I knew i wasnt ye only one 😂 i made a table ❤

Could you make a stand for it and lay it on its side and use as a forge as well?

Great vid thanks man helped a lot...... Any thoughts now that you had it a while ???

What guy do you keep referring to, it's just you and a tool in the video.

You could have kept your drawers by just raising up the workbench the height of the drawers, simple with a couple scrap 2x4's

Hi, nice lathe. Very quiet too! Regarding parting, some food for thought: - How thin is your blade? It flexed a lot when you started the cut, almost like if you were parting off on a threaded section (with a thin blade). I'm not seeing the holder moving, only the blade flexing, so maybe that blade was too thin (and the RPM was too low). - You didn't seem to have excess stickout for the cut, but maybe it was too much for the thickness of the blade. - Also it doesn't seem to me that you had the tool off center, it was cutting nice curly chips. - When starting, with HSS, slow will get the job done - but I think you're going too slow. 1018 with 20mm O.D. I think I'd start with 150-180 RPM with a 3/32nds blade. "Same" lathe. - Looks like the entire compound lifted when the blade broke. I'd check the compound play in all joints from the cross slide upwards. Also wouldn't hurt to check the carriage play. But at the least the compound should be locked during the operation and in a position where the parting tool is overhanging the cross-slide. Sorry for my poor english, I'm trying to help with little things that might make a difference. - There was some wobbling on the part before the blade broke, which wasn't happening at the beginning of the cut. Did the blade dig into the work and stalled the motor at some point (not shown on camera)? Sorry to ask but the times it happened to me, the part always ended up like yours (wobbling). And then yes, it runs crooked and the part grabs the blade. - Confidence and feel play a big role on the parting operation. Don't give up, you'll get there! (I had never seen a blade breaking before, yikes!) Stay safe!

Great job!

Thanks, awesome demo.

How many hours would you say went into building the chair?

Nice job

Enough with the stupid unboxing and the audio wasnt loud enough!

Haha I kept thinking that shirt looks familiar until I got a good glimpse. Got same shirt lol.

Those legs are great for securing with tent pegs. thanks for the video...!

Wait what was that about bleeding the cylinder? All you accomplish there was opening up the reservoir and closing it again

I would love to make one but don't have welder. You said you have to really give it a push for it to go over. What if you had two rods in upside down "V" free to move when tilted to prevent a total tip over of the stove itself. Just asking. Not an engineer.

I own this angle grinder, but am just an occasional user. Need a refresher when I do need to use one. This is an excellent video! You cover all the bases and your final thoughts make sense.

Thank You for such a calm & well recorded teaching moment. I purchased this exact product. If I wear it out, I`ll treat it first.

Which crane would be best or adequate for lifting a Ford F150 bed off the truck? Would the 1 ton crane do the job safely or would I need the 2 ton crane?

The bottom of the two red side arms go on the inside not the outside of the black base in the new models

Your RPM is too low as you’ve been told already, but the depth of cut is too shallow as well. Your depth of cut should be around half of the radius of the tool for turning. So if you’re using an insert that has a.03 radius your depth should be .015. As for the parting tool, it was probably chip build up due to the low RPM and an inconsistent feed rate. Don’t get discouraged. Get a copy of Machinery’s Handbook and practice with something more forgiving like nylon. When we were taught how to use a lathe in school we all started with nylon before moving on to brass, then aluminum and finally steel.

thanks for the measurements, gonna try to fit this in my 2014 mustang minus the passenger seat 😎

At breaker at the panel do you need

And how much you pay for it

As a rule of thumb, unsupported stickout shouldn’t be more than 2x stock diameter - so 1” round bar shouldn’t stick out more than 2” - otherwise you’re asking for a ride into chatter town, always work as closely to check chuck as you can for maximum rigidity - but like you, I learned by trying! Blondihacks lathe series is fantastic for learning!

comment for the algo

I watched to see how high this lifts, but it doesn't look like it would lift an engine high enough to get it over the radiator support?

I feel like if someone doesn't know how to set up an acetylene torch they probably aren't qualified to use one.

Good looking stoves how good the work i have to see a couple burns to decide. The rocking is unacceptable for a stove that produces pans of boiling water and much heat and smoke I know. "my stove is smokeless !!! Knock it over or restrict the air too much and wach it smoke like a coal locomotive!!! .Widen the legs about 4 inches you can make them slide out for transport.and tap the ends for a bolt with a flat metal plate on the bottom for extremely easy leveling in all unlevel situations. I see suggestions for spikes on the bottom to drive into the ground, wont work what if you are on large uneaven rocks or concrete, Or tailgate? .Another for flat washers to drive a tentstake trough the hole into the ground , wont work if on uneaven rocks, concrete or a tailgate. One guy said longer rebars flat on the bottom.better stability yes, Only good for perfect level ground . Shims suck on any situation. Another said 3 legs, no good more prone to tipping, only good on level ground. I have made at least 15 different rocket stove trying to find the best. all i can tell you is there is no perfect ones the all have qwirks. None heat stuff faster then a camp fire, its wood flames about the same temperature. Rocketstove smaller then campfire so less heat. 😢. Most important to me is not having to do a lot of work to make one and not having to fuss with the fire, lots of rocket stoves burn uneaven and you have to often adjust the wood to sustain good burn. You are going to laugh the best portable rocket stove i found is also the easiest to make. A 20 inch long 4 or 5 or 6 inch 5 inch best diameter section of stainless steel round stovepipe for the horizontal bottom combo wood and air pipe. One ss ellbow. One ss pipe between 10 inches or however tall you want it for chimmney, make the legs out of whatever you dream up. You can simply set this stove on the ground without any kind of legs and bury the bottom in sand or gravel to stabilize it and presto your done for just heat you are done, for cooking make a thingamajig for the top to hold a pot and let the heat and smoke out. No welding all you need is to cut the pipe , can make thingamajig and legs with bolts and nuts and a drill and hacksaw. This pulls appart or assembles in seconds. does not have to be stainless. Warning the first fire make it hot and stay out of the toxic smoke if using galvanized pipe until galvanizing burns off, hot fire or put in campfire burns it of fast. 😊 4 inch woodmiser, 5 inch medium, 6 inch roaring beast. Round wood best needs airspaces between wood for good low smoke burns. When using chopped wood chop wood into different shapes, triangles, flat, sqare, rectangles, round, and whatever. So as to create air spaces for good clean burn if overloaded all rocketstoves smoke like hell. If want to u can feed 8 foot long sticks shove in when burned up. Reverse fire, the most smokeless, fill stove with wood drop burning paper and twigs down chimney fire will burn mostly smokeless toward front. you should not use wet wood. For longer burn also fill chimmney with wood light the top nice long fire that you can cook almost anything whitout having to adjust or even touch the wood to keep fire going youll get a complete burn at least an hour never taking hands out of pockets. I was homeless for 8 years during that i cooked thousnds of meals on rocket stoves i made. I don't care about looks at all but i hate messing with the fire and i can tell you most rocket stoves burn up the available wood so fast in a small burn chamber, you have to feed it and fuss with it, my stovepipe rocketstoves burn chamber is from one end all the way to the other end if loaded correctly its the most steady fire i have seen. For cooking scrambled eggs and bacon i only load the 10 inch vertical pipe and upper half of the ellbow that's more then enough wood for that. Look there are drawbacks to anything you can only fill this Stove 2 times then the ash gets too much and has to be emptied but thats after a couple of hrs or more of hot fire. For a simple no legs very good rocketstove you could build in a hr or less this is simply the best. I think. This is not as nice looking as this channels owners nor will it last as long being made out of simple stovepipe because of the heat it eats the metal fast supcan rocket stoves last about 7 to 12 good burns. Iron stovepipe mabe 150_200 burns. Stainless steel 500 or more or less depends on quality of ss. I like ss becausr of not rusting aleays clean. This channels stoves are made of thicker steel materials so the will last much longer. I have only made stoves for my personal use and do not sell any. The reason i posted this long is because i really like how nice this guys stoves look and i respect and know how much work he puts into these stoves before the can be sold.

Thank you so much. I think I'm gonna get one.

I would rotate the handle like 30 degrees and shorten the stick connecting it by 30%. That way friction keeps it in your hand instead of using grip strength to hold it. Does it work with wood chips or sawdust pellets?

More rpm. Bud. Glad to see you are taking it slow as not to hurt yourself or the machine. But I assure you that machine is stronger than you. Just don't crash. Look up This old Tony,abom79,or cutting edge engineering on youtube. They will help alot.

It worked. Thanks.

I love mine! Very useful tool.

Hi, I stumbled upon your video, probably because of the algorithms and analogues you tube use. When Covid was rampant, I got interested in rocket stoves for my friends in Vanuatu. They used open fire and rocks to cook. I built a k stove, but found out that the islanders liked to see the flame while cooking, and as you know, the k rocket doesn’t let that happen. I modified the design to incorporate old gas tanks and fire extinguishers. This allowed the visual of seeing the flame in the fire chamber, easy to load, and utilise the double burning of wood gasses. I have attached a link to one of my first versions, and like you, my final design is different. I don’t have too many vids, and this is very amateurish now I look back on it. lol. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpWWoHR9dttkf8Usi=iZa42eGRA5liaKdI Regards, Brian from NZ.

How do you remove Master Force drawers in 4-door unit?

Don't tap like this

Watching the history Channel alone, I have seen many people lose their food in their campfires, so a stove tipping over is an issue. The stove you tipped over could be braced with large stones to prevent this. If you want to improve your rocket stove legs, could you punch and drill holes in the legs so that steaks can be driven through them into the ground so that it could take a big hit?

removing the knurling has affected the alignment hence the slipping when you roll

if the diameter is 4 then the radius is 2 (normally) 8:20. the ring won’t fit because your maths was incorrect. 2x 3.14 = 6.28 x 2 (assuming the radius is 2) so total length required is 12.26. but looking at the the tube I would say it’s 4” radius therefore the maths should be 2x 3.14 = 6.28 x 4 = 25.12” I have one of these and used it successfully for all sorts of rolling work on mild steel and non ferrous materials. It’s best to demonstrate something once you have given it a really test to give fair results. Removing the knurling was a mistake which is why the metal will not stay aligned while rolling. The knurling marks simply polish out in my experience.

Can you use this on a pickup truck? My husband said it wouldn't work, not enough clearance.

Bolting it to the floor? Are you in earthquake country? My lathe cabinet is on casters, so I can move it around easily.