CAN I SEND THE RESET? | Chill Slab Session
13:14
TOMA IS BACK | Loi and Toma
37:16
THE KIDS | V9+ in 1.5 Years
29:01
6 ай бұрын
Пікірлер
@morgan5795
@morgan5795 Күн бұрын
4:24 sounded like a horrid pulley rip at first listen hahaha gave me a fright xD
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 19 сағат бұрын
Haha it does eh. Good thing I was on a jug. I think the mic being on me makes it seem like that!
@shaunmf
@shaunmf 2 күн бұрын
Do you think that you can get your active flexion numbers more accurately by pulling from above your head instead of off the floor? What about using this as a max load instead? Thoughts?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr Күн бұрын
Tyler Nelson shows the most accurate set up. But like it doesn’t matter.
@PhillipBoothClimbs
@PhillipBoothClimbs 2 күн бұрын
Honest question: Does Tension intend for the kickboard to be 'in' for smearing? 🤔 I imagine having / using a kick will make a difference for some start moves.
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 күн бұрын
I just realized that after since I read or heard somewhere about there reasoning for not having holds on the kicker. So yes indeed you would be screwed for this problem if your TB2 doesn't have a kicker.
@jackbrewin505
@jackbrewin505 2 күн бұрын
This has changed my entire outlook - Great work
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 күн бұрын
Glad you learned something!
@luduong
@luduong 3 күн бұрын
I see Loi + TB2 and I watch
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 күн бұрын
🫶🫶🫶
@shortuglybeta
@shortuglybeta 3 күн бұрын
*ahem* 2024 moonboard
@Skuxkz
@Skuxkz 3 күн бұрын
Nice video dude hyped up for more climbing vids. (That v5 looked hard as fuck I wont lie.)
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 күн бұрын
I think you’re just supposed to go for the cut instead of locking off with the right foot aha
@Brookwin
@Brookwin 3 күн бұрын
not very courteous to get blood on the board : )
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 3 күн бұрын
It was cleaned up :)
@jacksonwhitcup1185
@jacksonwhitcup1185 3 күн бұрын
if you need an underrated climb to give some love, my set "How does pittsburgh work?" climbs pretty well. I haven't done it steeper than 40 yet, probably would be a solid V8 at 45, closer to 9 at 50.
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 3 күн бұрын
Ouu I'll put it on the list!
@nathanmoore167
@nathanmoore167 3 күн бұрын
Sending the set vid was cool! Really if you filmed anything you’re doing I’d be into it. Day in the life, training, rest day, RAGE content BTS, etc. Can’t be the only one either !
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 3 күн бұрын
I'll keep that in mind! I'll definitely have more time to experiment once nationals are done with!
@CooperSpinelli
@CooperSpinelli 3 күн бұрын
The beta that felt best for me on "sports" was to do the right hand bump and then come in to the pinch as an undercling but like on the other side of the hold so that your left hand is very supinated and your palms are facing the same direction instead of opposite each other if that makes sense. Right foot is on and left foot is just in space wherever feels good and bump the right hand up to the second to last hold. Anyways, really enjoyed the video, keep it up with the lowkey vlog style content.
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 3 күн бұрын
ouu that is interesting. I can definitely see that working!. Thanks for watching and the encouragement!
@felixvoytier9631
@felixvoytier9631 3 күн бұрын
hope my country will get a tension board it looks soooo sick
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 3 күн бұрын
It's really bomber but definitely a tool! Kilter Moon and Tension all have their place.
@felixvoytier9631
@felixvoytier9631 2 күн бұрын
@@loiduongjr yeah we have a few kilters and moonboards in france but still no public tensions
@Asdfghjkl-ls1or
@Asdfghjkl-ls1or 2 күн бұрын
​@felixvoytier9631 there is a tensionboard 1 in Paris (batignolles) but it barely gets any use. Its 30 degrees and just a lot of small crimps so not beginner friendly but also not very interesting for high-level climbers.
@felixvoytier9631
@felixvoytier9631 2 күн бұрын
@@Asdfghjkl-ls1or yeah i want that good ol' TB2 with adjustable wall x)
@julesdubi4312
@julesdubi4312 Күн бұрын
@@felixvoytier9631we have on in le cube, lausanne switzerland. Not too far from france if one day you come!
@ajaysent9434
@ajaysent9434 3 күн бұрын
I love these simple vlogs where you just climb and yap. So nice to watch
@ajaysent9434
@ajaysent9434 3 күн бұрын
Also wth does morfo (or morpho idk) mean?
@TheCreatorSRJ
@TheCreatorSRJ 3 күн бұрын
Morpho means the climb has vastly different difficulty based on height/reach
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 3 күн бұрын
Thanks! I really enjoy making them :)
@ajaysent9434
@ajaysent9434 2 күн бұрын
@@TheCreatorSRJahhh thanks that adds up :)
@vince_pajor
@vince_pajor 3 күн бұрын
Hell yeh man! I love your videos❤, because you know a lot abaut sport science , so I can learn and improve. Thanks! You're the goat🐐
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 3 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching !!! I'm glad you enjoyed :)
@Whueso
@Whueso 4 күн бұрын
Great video and I'm curious about this style of training fingers. Do you happen to have any research articles for this that you can link? Would love to see the research before I go implementing it. Thanks!
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 3 күн бұрын
Tyler Nelson from C4HP has all the brains on it. Check out his Instagram!
@omaroberto
@omaroberto 4 күн бұрын
Thanks bro, think will implement a similar approach with load and no tindeq to do reps of 8ish. More used to bodybuilding style reps and train, but also cuz love load on the extended position, what do you think of a dropset of 8 reps at 80% ish then fingercurls accenctuating the streched position, kidna similar to benchpress and flies, starting 1 set then climbing up? Also, since someone asked about Emil low intensity high frequency protocol and read your answer, i think it's very questionable for active recovery, if you want blood there just opening and closing the hands would get more and its easier to do, but from personal use seems to help a ton to keep my tendons stiff, which is very useful to me as a noob with hypermobility in the DIP.
@omaroberto
@omaroberto 4 күн бұрын
@loiduongjr btw they need to give you a link, referal or something. literally never considered anything lattice before but MX Edge Large pitch convinced me in a heartbeat.
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 4 күн бұрын
You are explaining a completely different exercise. It’s fine but it’s not what I’m doing. Your explanation on Emil is completely load dependant. The principal has nothing to do with its ease of accessibility or use.
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 4 күн бұрын
@@omaroberto they’re working on it!
@omaroberto
@omaroberto 4 күн бұрын
​@@loiduongjr I am terrible at explaining, but really dont see how they are different. What you are doing are sets of 1 rep maxes not moving the plataform you are standing on nor the lattice edge and against the resistence your body provides, flexing your fingers via forarm flexors right? What I am trying to explain is doing sets of 8 reps at 80%ish max efforth with a setup similar to no hang pull blocks (kzbin.info/www/bejne/f5CQipSmot6goKM), having my body totally locked and not moving from feet to shoulder, flexing the forarm flexors and moving the lattice edge attached to weight. The rep range and thus focus is indeed different, but... ain't it the same exercise for the muscle? If not ill do your setup and just change the rep range, but honestly can't see how they differ. The second part dropsets into fingercurls is just because i love to work on the stretch positions on the muscle, and since I cant think on how to do it with the lattice edge, ill just dropset into it like bench presses and pec flys.
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 4 күн бұрын
@@omaroberto Because you won't be actively concentrically flexing your forearms, you will instead be resisting the load. The mechanics are different.
@arianenguyen103
@arianenguyen103 5 күн бұрын
Cool video loi🔥🔥
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 4 күн бұрын
🫡🫡
@Plaszbot
@Plaszbot 5 күн бұрын
I find smearing in the comps to be such a pain.. like it will stick to the volumes no problem, its just combating the pain in my case due to my downsize haha
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 5 күн бұрын
Having a bigger pair would definitely be more performante on volumes
@kia_carens3660
@kia_carens3660 6 күн бұрын
the og sleeper build
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 6 күн бұрын
🗿🗿
@Pruuc
@Pruuc 6 күн бұрын
Such a good channel dude keep it up
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 6 күн бұрын
Thank you!! Keeping it going 💪
@jduclos9036
@jduclos9036 6 күн бұрын
The "c'est tellement facile!" killed me 😂
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 6 күн бұрын
😂😂
@kwickslow19
@kwickslow19 6 күн бұрын
bro when I do the shoulder drill exercise(progressive overload one), my arms only bend slightly unlike yours. I am facing 45 degree and trying to do it. i just started this drill do you think the arm bending angle will increase the more i do it?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 6 күн бұрын
Yes it will indeed. But experiment with lowering the load at some point to get better range of motion
@fireclub493
@fireclub493 6 күн бұрын
don’t listen to the slab haters! It’s a pure expression of climbing ability, not just strength
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 6 күн бұрын
I kinda disagree with your statement but I do love slab lol.
@bencekovacs8726
@bencekovacs8726 7 күн бұрын
its funny how you're saying the right terms, while you seem sooooo unsure about it. and when you're missing the point you just put on the correction. keep up the good work, you seem sincere :) (commenting for engagement tbh)
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 6 күн бұрын
Yea these videos aren’t really scripted so I’m saying everything off the top of the dome in the moment. I should probably plan a bit better lol 😂
@jacqweeeee
@jacqweeeee 7 күн бұрын
always jealous of mtl gyms!
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 7 күн бұрын
Livin the dream 🤩🤩
@crobert74
@crobert74 8 күн бұрын
amazing video
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 7 күн бұрын
Thank you for watching!
@phenix4181
@phenix4181 8 күн бұрын
très bien expliqué, j'vais essayer de mettre ça en pratique dans mes entraînements
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 7 күн бұрын
Sick!
@phenix4181
@phenix4181 8 күн бұрын
shorts pour la rage?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 7 күн бұрын
Peut etre dans le futur! Au moment j'ai des patch pour mettre la dessus
@danielturtle3717
@danielturtle3717 8 күн бұрын
the franglais is elite
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 7 күн бұрын
🫡🫡🫡
@the_yellow_axolotl3783
@the_yellow_axolotl3783 8 күн бұрын
this is just a comm for u to get more comms🫠
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 7 күн бұрын
not sure what this means haha
@tomagagne7438
@tomagagne7438 7 күн бұрын
Loi how can’t you understand
@Skuxkz
@Skuxkz 8 күн бұрын
I went to allez up mile end recently, pretty fun gym, pretty sad to missed those boulders they look really fun.
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 7 күн бұрын
This set was pretty crazy! Mile end isn't my favourite to go to right now rip
@Skuxkz
@Skuxkz 7 күн бұрын
@@loiduongjr Yeah when I went mile end had a few good boulders but a few of them also just felt meh, the good ones were really fun tho.
@Skuxkz
@Skuxkz 8 күн бұрын
These just climbing videos are really chill tbh.
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 7 күн бұрын
Yes! Tryna make something people can just hang out and watch and vibe. Maybe learn something cool :)
@Skuxkz
@Skuxkz 7 күн бұрын
@@loiduongjr Yeah, to be honest best thing about them is that other folks can also go try the problems on their own if they live in montréal and they are in general just pretty enjoyable to watch (at least for me lol).
@miaozas
@miaozas 8 күн бұрын
always nice to see variety w slab and footwork! reflection at the end helps me think abt my own climbing. v cool video!! 🤩
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 7 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching and commenting :)
@neonluk6277
@neonluk6277 8 күн бұрын
We want overhang not slab ahah
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 8 күн бұрын
Gotta put in the work if you want to be well rounded 💪💪
@ClimFreeFeelRain
@ClimFreeFeelRain 8 күн бұрын
lmfao no, idc of overhangs
@alexabouchacra1871
@alexabouchacra1871 9 күн бұрын
you're amazing. beautiful message. you're tapped into the universe I can sense
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 7 күн бұрын
Thanks. Just keeping going 🤞
@TommyClimbs
@TommyClimbs 9 күн бұрын
Awesome work dude! Keep up the great work! I really enjoyed this video!
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 7 күн бұрын
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed! :)
@smugcoffee8090
@smugcoffee8090 10 күн бұрын
I find the approach a little contrived. You are trying to objectively isolate the muscled group with a subjective feedback loop. I appreciate some of the insight but you say leave your ego at the door (I.e. don’t be concerned about high numbers) and do an objective job. However, you’re simultaneously chasing higher numbers to push yourself, which leads to in your last attempt leaning back and getting the 170 number. Overall it’s not controlled enough but I’m sure there are gains to be had
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 10 күн бұрын
Bad take. If I just wanted numbers I would have. just pulled 200. One small lean back leading to a tiny peak by accident doesn't change the fact that for the most part of the exercise the force was produced with the fore arm flexors. Watch the graph. In any case if your solution is to just do normal lifting then you will always max out your numbers which is clearly overloading your hand. So being annoyed that it isn't 100% perfect setup completely disregards the reality of day in day out training.
@Buffalo93
@Buffalo93 10 күн бұрын
Just get a lifting pin from Lattice, it won’t be too long. Of course, maybe not for tindeq training, but for lifting weights.
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 10 күн бұрын
Still a great way to build strength!
@RFrecka
@RFrecka 11 күн бұрын
Where did you get the information on passive vs active tension in the context of finger training?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 10 күн бұрын
A C4HP post from 2022! Very influential to my training 🫡
@Nolansgrandson
@Nolansgrandson 11 күн бұрын
No way MTL represents 💪💪
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 11 күн бұрын
Montreal 🫶
@magusto627
@magusto627 11 күн бұрын
Genetically gifted hehe
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 11 күн бұрын
people always forget that its a curve and not black and white.
@jarfrobinksss
@jarfrobinksss 11 күн бұрын
Step 1: be a tiny compact asian dude
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 11 күн бұрын
I don't particularly have good genetics for climbing... That's just a fact. But I do the most with what I have and I excel in some aspects of the sport.
@rodeimre
@rodeimre 11 күн бұрын
Would you say there's a bodyweight % weighted pull-up you should be able to do before training for the oap?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 11 күн бұрын
It all depends on your different strengths and weaknesses. You can have a week pull up and be able to do a one arm pull up, but you could also have a strong pull up and not be able to do it one arm pull up. Different exercises fr.
@herrar6595
@herrar6595 12 күн бұрын
Well aren´t we actually looking to load the tendons and ligaments in fingerboarding? I have not read that much of the literature on the subject but it seemed to suggest that 95+% of maximum voluntary contraction are required to trigger an adaptation in the tendons and that´s at least in part what we want to do, right? What you´re trying to do is basically hypertrophy the forearms with concentric and eccentric contraction, but tendon strength and neural drive are just as important as potential limiting factors and much better adressed with traditional hangboarding...
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 12 күн бұрын
You ignored everything I said in the video.
@herrar6595
@herrar6595 11 күн бұрын
@@loiduongjr I´m not ignoring you, just questioning the claims that the passive structures already get the stimulus they need to adapt and that further loading increases the risk of injury. Principles based training is great, only if the assuptions on which you base your principles are correct. Take Will Bosi for example, who does traditional max hangs before every session. He´s not worried about overloading his passive structures, in fact he claims the consistent loading is necessary to build resilience. That´s also principles based training, based on different assumptions. I´m not qualified to say who´s right in this case, but I´d like to be, which is why I´m asking poinient questions.
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 11 күн бұрын
@@herrar6595 Will Bossi is literally a generationally elite outdoor climber with generationally elite genetics for climbing... You are not Lu by Zach Telander is a great youtube video that explains why looking up to the goats of your sport is a terrible idea. Also it's not principle based at all... its method based. The long standing method has been to do max hang style training to gain finger strength. Analyzing this style of training using sport science principles is what I explain in the video.
@WillTheFrozen
@WillTheFrozen 12 күн бұрын
increxible content
@WillTheFrozen
@WillTheFrozen 12 күн бұрын
Yo il en faut un avec Oliver demers de beta bloc
@danacandersen
@danacandersen 12 күн бұрын
I agree with intentionally targeting the finger flexor muscles, but why not also target the non-muscle structures (tendons, pulleys, etc) by doing yielding isometric hangs at heavier load? Of course, we want to be careful about volume and proper recovery, but progressive overload to non-muscle structures should stimulate these as well and create adaptations (e.g. tendon stiffness) that would be beneficial for injury prevention as well as overall finger strength. Perhaps this could be done with incorporating some yielding isometric hangs into a weekly training program?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 4 күн бұрын
They are already adequately loaded in the exercise and with normal climbing.
@angustaylor711
@angustaylor711 20 сағат бұрын
​@@loiduongjr can you explain why connective tissue is adequately loaded, but muscle tissue isn't? Like if there is need to train one off the wall, why not both?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 19 сағат бұрын
@@angustaylor711 Great question! Generally, in a more standard exercise, the adequate loading of the muscle will also be adequate loading of the connective tissue. With hangboarding or edge lifts enters something different which is passive tension. This allows for our muscles to take a backseat, thus overloading our connective tissue. In this case we are always overloading our connective tissue. This method aims to normalize the load to both systems. Does that make sense?
@markwestfall6086
@markwestfall6086 12 күн бұрын
I appreciate your content. In the Lattice video on the MXedge, they use a lifting pin, and their technique seems more like a deadlift. You recommend using more of a finger-curling technique along with a Tindeq. Since I don’t want to spend $200 on a Tindeq, what are the best practices for using a lifting pin? I’m taller, so I’ve elevated the pin on a bumper plate. I’m keeping my legs straight and trying to lift the edge using only a curling motion in my fingers. Does that sound correct? Could you clarify this further?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 12 күн бұрын
You don’t need a tindeq, it just allows you to get numbers. For the majority of the time using this training philosophy I’ve set it up without a tindeq and programmed off of RPE.
@teodorrt
@teodorrt 12 күн бұрын
Prob you know but instead of sling you can get a daisy chain for climbing, much more versatile
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 12 күн бұрын
Oh totally true lol. I just have this because I borrowed it indefinitely from a friend 😅😂
@tomega4967
@tomega4967 13 күн бұрын
thanks for the video! i'm just wondering whether it's even necessary to do the “finger curls” from the 1st exercise, as the forearm muscles of the fingers are trained in nearly the same way when pinching?!
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 13 күн бұрын
Definitely a different sensation