Teaching Normal Girl How to Climb
18:21
TOMA IS BACK | Loi and Toma
37:16
6 ай бұрын
Пікірлер
@MandarFahrren1299
@MandarFahrren1299 3 күн бұрын
Will impliment this to my routine for OAP progression. I have a bit of an issue though. On scalpula pulls i cannot bend elbow much if at all, but shrugging is easy. But heres the caveat--my biceps seem go be strong, i can close-grip curl with ex bar 150-155 pounds for 3x8 or 4x7 and i use 45 pound plate for 3x5+3 chinups. Intereting dilemma i have here. My chinup weight seems very poor? Not sure whats goong on with either of these issues. Edit: i am 230Ibs, 11 percent bodyfat
@HebboBoss
@HebboBoss 5 күн бұрын
Yo really like your content! Im curious if you have kept training this and if it feels it has yielded results for you? I myself recently started a similar protocol with inspiration from C4HP. But im not sure if I should train with max effort all the time or 80-85% of peak as some say is best. Do you have any input?😊
@axelnio7498
@axelnio7498 12 күн бұрын
You look like buff doublelift
@martinkolar9199
@martinkolar9199 13 күн бұрын
Honestly I ve seen reverse. Everybody i doing 1 rep maxes while Ive been thinking that powerlifting sets are usually 3x2, 3x3, 4x5, 5x5. very few 5x1 or 3x1
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 13 күн бұрын
Yes but no. Technically key thing is time under tension. By doing a maximal overcoming iso for a duration of 3-5 seconds you will be doing something more similar to the compound movements of powerlifting in terms of the time under tension. A true 1RM would just be to immediately stop after hitting peak force.
@RL-sh1kb
@RL-sh1kb 20 күн бұрын
Doesn't it all kind of depend on the climbing move and hold type as to whether you apply active flexion/concentric force (that you would develop via finger curling) vs. yielding eccentric force (that you would develop via hangboard)? So wouldn't you adapt your training accordinly?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 13 күн бұрын
From what I understand the connective tissue adaption will happen with both while muscular recruitment will not necessarily be effectively training in yielding iso. You will adequately load all the connective tissue while you actually climb and so no need to do so unless you want a very particular outcome. C4HP actually just posted a great post about it on insta.
@RL-sh1kb
@RL-sh1kb 9 күн бұрын
@@loiduongjr thanks -- have you tried using the tindeq with a rolling thunder style handle for sloper type strength? I think this would be more active flexion than passive tension.
@doomthagoon8512
@doomthagoon8512 Ай бұрын
How long do I stay on each progression
@bartosz_st
@bartosz_st Ай бұрын
Bro I've managed to develop my strength to lift 50% my bw for 3x pull up and chin up, but I'm not able to do that activation 8:20, I just don't understand how should I start my oap movement , I can one arm shrugs but cant lift any cm up 😂
@sotomichail9331
@sotomichail9331 Ай бұрын
How can i combine it with my OAP training?😢
@knightwik
@knightwik Ай бұрын
is it important to train on different size edges? or will gaining adaptions from training a particular edge translate to all the other size edges of the same type?
@cooker-r8e
@cooker-r8e Ай бұрын
bro got the oap and became more handsome (from march 2022) 00:32
@_alle.belli_9493
@_alle.belli_9493 Ай бұрын
try placing the weight like you did in the end but in front of your legs and not behind
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr Ай бұрын
ouuu is that even better?
@_alle.belli_9493
@_alle.belli_9493 Ай бұрын
@@loiduongjr i think so
@jamesdazhongcook
@jamesdazhongcook Ай бұрын
@@loiduongjr Yes
@gibranayala3903
@gibranayala3903 Ай бұрын
THOMAS FUCKING HEEEE
@luduong
@luduong Ай бұрын
YEA LOI!!
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr Ай бұрын
Thanks Lu!
@ChonkyOntop
@ChonkyOntop Ай бұрын
strong af, happy Christmas and happy new year ! keep up the vids and the training 🔥
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr Ай бұрын
Merry Christmas and happy new year to you as well!
@tonelo7207
@tonelo7207 Ай бұрын
Yall gotta watch pere coll for some technical corrections ahah
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr Ай бұрын
Thanks! Wasn't sure where to look!
@tonelo7207
@tonelo7207 Ай бұрын
Fire vid
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr Ай бұрын
Thank you bro!
@grovercostello1668
@grovercostello1668 Ай бұрын
Totally read that as Old Age Pensioner 'OAP', and thought wow this is going to be impressive. 😆🤣
@ClimbingCaed
@ClimbingCaed Ай бұрын
Flashing V8 on a chill day!? Super inspiring
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr Ай бұрын
Thanks bro! Honestly fit kilter it comes quick!
@holdingW0
@holdingW0 Ай бұрын
Money in the bank, pimpin aint easy -Yiliang “Doublelift” Peng
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr Ай бұрын
Yurrr
@azn_1050
@azn_1050 2 ай бұрын
'In Europe they don't have gym equipment' xDDDD yeah it's really the third world out here
@Skuxkz
@Skuxkz 2 ай бұрын
Hell yeah new video, kilter grind going hard
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
Thank you bro 🫶
@zynthrex1
@zynthrex1 2 ай бұрын
Loi you should try “la jungla del loco” I think you would love it
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
I’ll give it a look 😉
@BuddhA1ex
@BuddhA1ex 2 ай бұрын
Bro the analysis you create about the sublties of climbing through mindset and feelings is really interesting and cool
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
Thanks man! Trying to keep it real and authentic.
@alexabouchacra1871
@alexabouchacra1871 2 ай бұрын
You're fkn amazing man lets gooo
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
Appreciate you bro! 🫶
@nuggopps3372
@nuggopps3372 2 ай бұрын
I recommend trying "paradise 🦅" V12 at 40. I haven't tried it myself, just seen a vid of it and it looks like it could be your style!
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
ouu I'll check er out!
@Schnoofer
@Schnoofer 2 ай бұрын
Loving the kilter arc
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
hehe thanks for watching and commenting !
@koryxd
@koryxd 2 ай бұрын
Is the lattice video coming, would love to see your stats
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
Yup should be next. Just deciding how I should do it. But also the stats are sooo off because I was so tired lol. When I redo it in Jan it's going to make my gains look crazy.
@andrescalade
@andrescalade 2 ай бұрын
Textured Kilter Board is aid
@Schnoofer
@Schnoofer 2 ай бұрын
How is it textured
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
Yo its actually horrible. I shred my nails. I'd much rather climb on non textured haha
@andrescalade
@andrescalade 2 ай бұрын
@@loiduongjr idc about my nails if I'm able to smear better;)
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
you say that until you cant climb cuz your nail is coming off your finger lol
@zynthrex1
@zynthrex1 2 ай бұрын
Two Montréal beasts battling
@loicdallaire1714
@loicdallaire1714 2 ай бұрын
Hell yea
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
First 10 on the channel letsgoooo
@loicdallaire1714
@loicdallaire1714 2 ай бұрын
@loiduongjr Love to see it man keep up the good work!! You inspire me to become a better climber
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
Thanks dude! Comments like these truly mean so much to me man! Keep going!
@ocr2914
@ocr2914 2 ай бұрын
Do you have any advice on isolating your forearms when doing edge pulls with weight on a lifting pin instead of a Tindeq? Feels like it is difficult to not put unnecessary load through the fingers as you are lifting the weight off of the ground with your legs when using a lifting pin. Is it just a matter of pulling the slack out of it, ensuring you maintain good form and only then lifting the weight off of the ground with your legs? Any advice appreciated as I dont have access to a Tindeq - for now anyway
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
I totally agree with you experience. It's actually this exact reason that I do not like edge lifting. You can use this same setup without a tindeq and get the same gains you will just not know how much force you are outputting. Alternatively my favourite approach is to do it pulling down on a hangboard. You don't know exactly how much you are pulling but every couple weeks you will lift off with your added weight so you know you are progressing.
@ocr2914
@ocr2914 2 ай бұрын
@@loiduongjr Thanks for the quick reply :) I will give that a go. So with this method on the hangboard, would the goal be to contract with your fingers in the same manner as the edge lifting but due to the added weight you are unable to lift yourself off of the ground? I guess if you are hang-boarding with added weight you could always stand on a scale to get an estimate of the amount of weight you are pulling lol?
@Pennwisedom
@Pennwisedom 2 ай бұрын
So, what V14 did you climb?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
V14 strength and climbing V14 are completely different things. I climb with plenty of elite level climbing athletes and I do beat them in these isolated tests.
@Pennwisedom
@Pennwisedom 2 ай бұрын
@loiduongjr Yea, it's deliberately misleading. If you haven't climbed V14 you don't have V14 fingers. You have "fingers that can pass isolated physical tests that are similar to V14 climbers." V14 is a bouldering grade, not a strength metric.
@scskmsd23
@scskmsd23 2 ай бұрын
Love the quality man! Btw do you accept boulder recommendations?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
I definitely want to do a viewer recommended boulders video for sure! Make sure to follow over on instagram for when I post that!
@UndercoverFruitcake
@UndercoverFruitcake 2 ай бұрын
L Dong Jr trash
@tonelo7207
@tonelo7207 2 ай бұрын
I will comeback to this video to say if it worked out or not, good info bro
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
Good luck!
@tonelo7207
@tonelo7207 Ай бұрын
Update after 2 weeks: got a good negative on both arms
@tonelo7207
@tonelo7207 Ай бұрын
Update after 3 weeks: got even better at the eccentric
@anthonynunes8090
@anthonynunes8090 2 ай бұрын
Loi
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
Indeed
@samuellaplante190
@samuellaplante190 2 ай бұрын
So « on verra » I love it !!
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
Haha thanks!
@Skuxkz
@Skuxkz 2 ай бұрын
Personal grades?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
😂😂
@Skuxkz
@Skuxkz 2 ай бұрын
Personal grades?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
💀
@Skuxkz
@Skuxkz 2 ай бұрын
@@loiduongjr Oh lol it sent to this video too, I missclicked it and then quickly backed and clicking on the newest video but it was the still the comments of this one, well..
@Eyllexx
@Eyllexx 2 ай бұрын
Great video! An idea for a video could be trying famous kilter boulders or benchmarks, idk if you have already done that in the past:)
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
I’ve kinda done it but I think some user submitted boulders would be fun!
@koutaclimbs1612
@koutaclimbs1612 2 ай бұрын
What camera do you use to record?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
A7i4 + Sony Zeiss 16-35mm f4
@georgehlio4023
@georgehlio4023 2 ай бұрын
Very informative video! Do the same principles apply for ring work (in order to get the 1-arm ring pull-up)? Also does rotator cuff exercises like DB external rotations contribute towards this goal?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
On rings I most often see One arm chin-ups which I guess this would actually be more beneficial for. I don’t think external rotation will do much for OAP.
@georgehlio4023
@georgehlio4023 2 ай бұрын
@@loiduongjr Awesome thanks!
@Eyllexx
@Eyllexx 2 ай бұрын
Really good message at the end
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
Glad you heard it ! 🫶
@jassyjanjua2103
@jassyjanjua2103 2 ай бұрын
I don’t hear many people talk about the creatine cramps. When I took it I was cramping even when drinking a lot of water especially with cross training like running. Any one have any thoughts ?
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
I haven’t quite heard of it but potentially in your attempt to resolve your troubles you are actually doing a disservice. Replacement of electrolytes (mostly sodium) is really important so if you only drink water you could actually be making your dehydration worse.
@JustanamebroDK
@JustanamebroDK 2 ай бұрын
Try isotonic drinks before climbing, not just water. When you take creatine you get more thirsty and also expel a bunch of electrolytes much easier which is why cramps happen.
@pyre753
@pyre753 2 ай бұрын
love your content man. great vid
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 2 ай бұрын
Thanks bro 🫶
@GucciFeet
@GucciFeet 3 ай бұрын
I always cantwait for your training videos! THe principles you apply are very current and hits the spot and makes you stand out on youtube. I had the chance to learn from Dr Ebonie rio and Jill Cook (if you know you know =) ). You are very spot on with their research findings and methodologies!
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 3 ай бұрын
Thank you bro!
@dsmeier6270
@dsmeier6270 3 ай бұрын
Wear shoes!! I have fallen and the impact alone with the extra weight blackened my big toe and then I couldn't climbing for a few days! 😂
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 3 ай бұрын
For real!
@Gavin_Ross
@Gavin_Ross 3 ай бұрын
Extra for the algorithm 🔥
@Gavin_Ross
@Gavin_Ross 3 ай бұрын
Absolute fire
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 3 ай бұрын
Thanks for the love Gavin. A real day one.
@ballena9518
@ballena9518 3 ай бұрын
Heyy, out of curiosity. I remember you mentioning you used to powerlift. What were your best lifts (SBD)? Cuz you have crazy strength, im curious to know how strong you were before getting into climbing!
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 3 ай бұрын
I did a brief stint over a couple months when i was 16-17. Pr's were 385 squat, 215 bench and 405 deadlift at 155lbs. Not exactly sure on time lines but my first ever deadlift (275lbs) was around October 2017 and my last deadlift pr of 405 was January 22nd 2018.
@trainee1882
@trainee1882 3 ай бұрын
Hey Loi, loved the vid! You're feeling it in your biceps more due to the pull up form. Typically those doing weighted calisthenics will start to round their backs more as they reach the top portion which slightly moves them out of scapula depression. This in turn will result in the load being placed more on your biceps instead of the lats. Hand placement is also a factor with closer holds tending to favour more the forearms/biceps if you're maintaining a more upright body position. Regardless, you're still improving your pullups as the back is still being worked, the force is just slight distributed differently. Depends on your goal to be honest. If it's strength, you're strongest form will most likely be your current one. However, if you want to target the back for a more hypertrophy path, focus on maintaining that scapula depression but you'll most likely be able to pull less. I recommend a mix of two as a chance to unload some extra stress off the elbows if you're always going heavy plus climbing. Maybe another reason why your biceps are hurting is because it's simply just strained/fatigued from your climbing/training sesh the previous day :). This is just my two cents so take it with a grain of salt!
@loiduongjr
@loiduongjr 3 ай бұрын
Really great insight thank you! Honestly not too sure where I want to take it lol. Just doing it because I like it!