4:24 sounded like a horrid pulley rip at first listen hahaha gave me a fright xD
@loiduongjr19 сағат бұрын
Haha it does eh. Good thing I was on a jug. I think the mic being on me makes it seem like that!
@shaunmf2 күн бұрын
Do you think that you can get your active flexion numbers more accurately by pulling from above your head instead of off the floor? What about using this as a max load instead? Thoughts?
@loiduongjrКүн бұрын
Tyler Nelson shows the most accurate set up. But like it doesn’t matter.
@PhillipBoothClimbs2 күн бұрын
Honest question: Does Tension intend for the kickboard to be 'in' for smearing? 🤔 I imagine having / using a kick will make a difference for some start moves.
@loiduongjr2 күн бұрын
I just realized that after since I read or heard somewhere about there reasoning for not having holds on the kicker. So yes indeed you would be screwed for this problem if your TB2 doesn't have a kicker.
@jackbrewin5052 күн бұрын
This has changed my entire outlook - Great work
@loiduongjr2 күн бұрын
Glad you learned something!
@luduong3 күн бұрын
I see Loi + TB2 and I watch
@loiduongjr2 күн бұрын
🫶🫶🫶
@shortuglybeta3 күн бұрын
*ahem* 2024 moonboard
@Skuxkz3 күн бұрын
Nice video dude hyped up for more climbing vids. (That v5 looked hard as fuck I wont lie.)
@loiduongjr2 күн бұрын
I think you’re just supposed to go for the cut instead of locking off with the right foot aha
@Brookwin3 күн бұрын
not very courteous to get blood on the board : )
@loiduongjr3 күн бұрын
It was cleaned up :)
@jacksonwhitcup11853 күн бұрын
if you need an underrated climb to give some love, my set "How does pittsburgh work?" climbs pretty well. I haven't done it steeper than 40 yet, probably would be a solid V8 at 45, closer to 9 at 50.
@loiduongjr3 күн бұрын
Ouu I'll put it on the list!
@nathanmoore1673 күн бұрын
Sending the set vid was cool! Really if you filmed anything you’re doing I’d be into it. Day in the life, training, rest day, RAGE content BTS, etc. Can’t be the only one either !
@loiduongjr3 күн бұрын
I'll keep that in mind! I'll definitely have more time to experiment once nationals are done with!
@CooperSpinelli3 күн бұрын
The beta that felt best for me on "sports" was to do the right hand bump and then come in to the pinch as an undercling but like on the other side of the hold so that your left hand is very supinated and your palms are facing the same direction instead of opposite each other if that makes sense. Right foot is on and left foot is just in space wherever feels good and bump the right hand up to the second to last hold. Anyways, really enjoyed the video, keep it up with the lowkey vlog style content.
@loiduongjr3 күн бұрын
ouu that is interesting. I can definitely see that working!. Thanks for watching and the encouragement!
@felixvoytier96313 күн бұрын
hope my country will get a tension board it looks soooo sick
@loiduongjr3 күн бұрын
It's really bomber but definitely a tool! Kilter Moon and Tension all have their place.
@felixvoytier96312 күн бұрын
@@loiduongjr yeah we have a few kilters and moonboards in france but still no public tensions
@Asdfghjkl-ls1or2 күн бұрын
@felixvoytier9631 there is a tensionboard 1 in Paris (batignolles) but it barely gets any use. Its 30 degrees and just a lot of small crimps so not beginner friendly but also not very interesting for high-level climbers.
@felixvoytier96312 күн бұрын
@@Asdfghjkl-ls1or yeah i want that good ol' TB2 with adjustable wall x)
@julesdubi4312Күн бұрын
@@felixvoytier9631we have on in le cube, lausanne switzerland. Not too far from france if one day you come!
@ajaysent94343 күн бұрын
I love these simple vlogs where you just climb and yap. So nice to watch
@ajaysent94343 күн бұрын
Also wth does morfo (or morpho idk) mean?
@TheCreatorSRJ3 күн бұрын
Morpho means the climb has vastly different difficulty based on height/reach
@loiduongjr3 күн бұрын
Thanks! I really enjoy making them :)
@ajaysent94342 күн бұрын
@@TheCreatorSRJahhh thanks that adds up :)
@vince_pajor3 күн бұрын
Hell yeh man! I love your videos❤, because you know a lot abaut sport science , so I can learn and improve. Thanks! You're the goat🐐
@loiduongjr3 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching !!! I'm glad you enjoyed :)
@Whueso4 күн бұрын
Great video and I'm curious about this style of training fingers. Do you happen to have any research articles for this that you can link? Would love to see the research before I go implementing it. Thanks!
@loiduongjr3 күн бұрын
Tyler Nelson from C4HP has all the brains on it. Check out his Instagram!
@omaroberto4 күн бұрын
Thanks bro, think will implement a similar approach with load and no tindeq to do reps of 8ish. More used to bodybuilding style reps and train, but also cuz love load on the extended position, what do you think of a dropset of 8 reps at 80% ish then fingercurls accenctuating the streched position, kidna similar to benchpress and flies, starting 1 set then climbing up? Also, since someone asked about Emil low intensity high frequency protocol and read your answer, i think it's very questionable for active recovery, if you want blood there just opening and closing the hands would get more and its easier to do, but from personal use seems to help a ton to keep my tendons stiff, which is very useful to me as a noob with hypermobility in the DIP.
@omaroberto4 күн бұрын
@loiduongjr btw they need to give you a link, referal or something. literally never considered anything lattice before but MX Edge Large pitch convinced me in a heartbeat.
@loiduongjr4 күн бұрын
You are explaining a completely different exercise. It’s fine but it’s not what I’m doing. Your explanation on Emil is completely load dependant. The principal has nothing to do with its ease of accessibility or use.
@loiduongjr4 күн бұрын
@@omaroberto they’re working on it!
@omaroberto4 күн бұрын
@@loiduongjr I am terrible at explaining, but really dont see how they are different. What you are doing are sets of 1 rep maxes not moving the plataform you are standing on nor the lattice edge and against the resistence your body provides, flexing your fingers via forarm flexors right? What I am trying to explain is doing sets of 8 reps at 80%ish max efforth with a setup similar to no hang pull blocks (kzbin.info/www/bejne/f5CQipSmot6goKM), having my body totally locked and not moving from feet to shoulder, flexing the forarm flexors and moving the lattice edge attached to weight. The rep range and thus focus is indeed different, but... ain't it the same exercise for the muscle? If not ill do your setup and just change the rep range, but honestly can't see how they differ. The second part dropsets into fingercurls is just because i love to work on the stretch positions on the muscle, and since I cant think on how to do it with the lattice edge, ill just dropset into it like bench presses and pec flys.
@loiduongjr4 күн бұрын
@@omaroberto Because you won't be actively concentrically flexing your forearms, you will instead be resisting the load. The mechanics are different.
@arianenguyen1035 күн бұрын
Cool video loi🔥🔥
@loiduongjr4 күн бұрын
🫡🫡
@Plaszbot5 күн бұрын
I find smearing in the comps to be such a pain.. like it will stick to the volumes no problem, its just combating the pain in my case due to my downsize haha
@loiduongjr5 күн бұрын
Having a bigger pair would definitely be more performante on volumes
@kia_carens36606 күн бұрын
the og sleeper build
@loiduongjr6 күн бұрын
🗿🗿
@Pruuc6 күн бұрын
Such a good channel dude keep it up
@loiduongjr6 күн бұрын
Thank you!! Keeping it going 💪
@jduclos90366 күн бұрын
The "c'est tellement facile!" killed me 😂
@loiduongjr6 күн бұрын
😂😂
@kwickslow196 күн бұрын
bro when I do the shoulder drill exercise(progressive overload one), my arms only bend slightly unlike yours. I am facing 45 degree and trying to do it. i just started this drill do you think the arm bending angle will increase the more i do it?
@loiduongjr6 күн бұрын
Yes it will indeed. But experiment with lowering the load at some point to get better range of motion
@fireclub4936 күн бұрын
don’t listen to the slab haters! It’s a pure expression of climbing ability, not just strength
@loiduongjr6 күн бұрын
I kinda disagree with your statement but I do love slab lol.
@bencekovacs87267 күн бұрын
its funny how you're saying the right terms, while you seem sooooo unsure about it. and when you're missing the point you just put on the correction. keep up the good work, you seem sincere :) (commenting for engagement tbh)
@loiduongjr6 күн бұрын
Yea these videos aren’t really scripted so I’m saying everything off the top of the dome in the moment. I should probably plan a bit better lol 😂
@jacqweeeee7 күн бұрын
always jealous of mtl gyms!
@loiduongjr7 күн бұрын
Livin the dream 🤩🤩
@crobert748 күн бұрын
amazing video
@loiduongjr7 күн бұрын
Thank you for watching!
@phenix41818 күн бұрын
très bien expliqué, j'vais essayer de mettre ça en pratique dans mes entraînements
@loiduongjr7 күн бұрын
Sick!
@phenix41818 күн бұрын
shorts pour la rage?
@loiduongjr7 күн бұрын
Peut etre dans le futur! Au moment j'ai des patch pour mettre la dessus
@danielturtle37178 күн бұрын
the franglais is elite
@loiduongjr7 күн бұрын
🫡🫡🫡
@the_yellow_axolotl37838 күн бұрын
this is just a comm for u to get more comms🫠
@loiduongjr7 күн бұрын
not sure what this means haha
@tomagagne74387 күн бұрын
Loi how can’t you understand
@Skuxkz8 күн бұрын
I went to allez up mile end recently, pretty fun gym, pretty sad to missed those boulders they look really fun.
@loiduongjr7 күн бұрын
This set was pretty crazy! Mile end isn't my favourite to go to right now rip
@Skuxkz7 күн бұрын
@@loiduongjr Yeah when I went mile end had a few good boulders but a few of them also just felt meh, the good ones were really fun tho.
@Skuxkz8 күн бұрын
These just climbing videos are really chill tbh.
@loiduongjr7 күн бұрын
Yes! Tryna make something people can just hang out and watch and vibe. Maybe learn something cool :)
@Skuxkz7 күн бұрын
@@loiduongjr Yeah, to be honest best thing about them is that other folks can also go try the problems on their own if they live in montréal and they are in general just pretty enjoyable to watch (at least for me lol).
@miaozas8 күн бұрын
always nice to see variety w slab and footwork! reflection at the end helps me think abt my own climbing. v cool video!! 🤩
@loiduongjr7 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching and commenting :)
@neonluk62778 күн бұрын
We want overhang not slab ahah
@loiduongjr8 күн бұрын
Gotta put in the work if you want to be well rounded 💪💪
@ClimFreeFeelRain8 күн бұрын
lmfao no, idc of overhangs
@alexabouchacra18719 күн бұрын
you're amazing. beautiful message. you're tapped into the universe I can sense
@loiduongjr7 күн бұрын
Thanks. Just keeping going 🤞
@TommyClimbs9 күн бұрын
Awesome work dude! Keep up the great work! I really enjoyed this video!
@loiduongjr7 күн бұрын
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed! :)
@smugcoffee809010 күн бұрын
I find the approach a little contrived. You are trying to objectively isolate the muscled group with a subjective feedback loop. I appreciate some of the insight but you say leave your ego at the door (I.e. don’t be concerned about high numbers) and do an objective job. However, you’re simultaneously chasing higher numbers to push yourself, which leads to in your last attempt leaning back and getting the 170 number. Overall it’s not controlled enough but I’m sure there are gains to be had
@loiduongjr10 күн бұрын
Bad take. If I just wanted numbers I would have. just pulled 200. One small lean back leading to a tiny peak by accident doesn't change the fact that for the most part of the exercise the force was produced with the fore arm flexors. Watch the graph. In any case if your solution is to just do normal lifting then you will always max out your numbers which is clearly overloading your hand. So being annoyed that it isn't 100% perfect setup completely disregards the reality of day in day out training.
@Buffalo9310 күн бұрын
Just get a lifting pin from Lattice, it won’t be too long. Of course, maybe not for tindeq training, but for lifting weights.
@loiduongjr10 күн бұрын
Still a great way to build strength!
@RFrecka11 күн бұрын
Where did you get the information on passive vs active tension in the context of finger training?
@loiduongjr10 күн бұрын
A C4HP post from 2022! Very influential to my training 🫡
@Nolansgrandson11 күн бұрын
No way MTL represents 💪💪
@loiduongjr11 күн бұрын
Montreal 🫶
@magusto62711 күн бұрын
Genetically gifted hehe
@loiduongjr11 күн бұрын
people always forget that its a curve and not black and white.
@jarfrobinksss11 күн бұрын
Step 1: be a tiny compact asian dude
@loiduongjr11 күн бұрын
I don't particularly have good genetics for climbing... That's just a fact. But I do the most with what I have and I excel in some aspects of the sport.
@rodeimre11 күн бұрын
Would you say there's a bodyweight % weighted pull-up you should be able to do before training for the oap?
@loiduongjr11 күн бұрын
It all depends on your different strengths and weaknesses. You can have a week pull up and be able to do a one arm pull up, but you could also have a strong pull up and not be able to do it one arm pull up. Different exercises fr.
@herrar659512 күн бұрын
Well aren´t we actually looking to load the tendons and ligaments in fingerboarding? I have not read that much of the literature on the subject but it seemed to suggest that 95+% of maximum voluntary contraction are required to trigger an adaptation in the tendons and that´s at least in part what we want to do, right? What you´re trying to do is basically hypertrophy the forearms with concentric and eccentric contraction, but tendon strength and neural drive are just as important as potential limiting factors and much better adressed with traditional hangboarding...
@loiduongjr12 күн бұрын
You ignored everything I said in the video.
@herrar659511 күн бұрын
@@loiduongjr I´m not ignoring you, just questioning the claims that the passive structures already get the stimulus they need to adapt and that further loading increases the risk of injury. Principles based training is great, only if the assuptions on which you base your principles are correct. Take Will Bosi for example, who does traditional max hangs before every session. He´s not worried about overloading his passive structures, in fact he claims the consistent loading is necessary to build resilience. That´s also principles based training, based on different assumptions. I´m not qualified to say who´s right in this case, but I´d like to be, which is why I´m asking poinient questions.
@loiduongjr11 күн бұрын
@@herrar6595 Will Bossi is literally a generationally elite outdoor climber with generationally elite genetics for climbing... You are not Lu by Zach Telander is a great youtube video that explains why looking up to the goats of your sport is a terrible idea. Also it's not principle based at all... its method based. The long standing method has been to do max hang style training to gain finger strength. Analyzing this style of training using sport science principles is what I explain in the video.
@WillTheFrozen12 күн бұрын
increxible content
@WillTheFrozen12 күн бұрын
Yo il en faut un avec Oliver demers de beta bloc
@danacandersen12 күн бұрын
I agree with intentionally targeting the finger flexor muscles, but why not also target the non-muscle structures (tendons, pulleys, etc) by doing yielding isometric hangs at heavier load? Of course, we want to be careful about volume and proper recovery, but progressive overload to non-muscle structures should stimulate these as well and create adaptations (e.g. tendon stiffness) that would be beneficial for injury prevention as well as overall finger strength. Perhaps this could be done with incorporating some yielding isometric hangs into a weekly training program?
@loiduongjr4 күн бұрын
They are already adequately loaded in the exercise and with normal climbing.
@angustaylor71120 сағат бұрын
@@loiduongjr can you explain why connective tissue is adequately loaded, but muscle tissue isn't? Like if there is need to train one off the wall, why not both?
@loiduongjr19 сағат бұрын
@@angustaylor711 Great question! Generally, in a more standard exercise, the adequate loading of the muscle will also be adequate loading of the connective tissue. With hangboarding or edge lifts enters something different which is passive tension. This allows for our muscles to take a backseat, thus overloading our connective tissue. In this case we are always overloading our connective tissue. This method aims to normalize the load to both systems. Does that make sense?
@markwestfall608612 күн бұрын
I appreciate your content. In the Lattice video on the MXedge, they use a lifting pin, and their technique seems more like a deadlift. You recommend using more of a finger-curling technique along with a Tindeq. Since I don’t want to spend $200 on a Tindeq, what are the best practices for using a lifting pin? I’m taller, so I’ve elevated the pin on a bumper plate. I’m keeping my legs straight and trying to lift the edge using only a curling motion in my fingers. Does that sound correct? Could you clarify this further?
@loiduongjr12 күн бұрын
You don’t need a tindeq, it just allows you to get numbers. For the majority of the time using this training philosophy I’ve set it up without a tindeq and programmed off of RPE.
@teodorrt12 күн бұрын
Prob you know but instead of sling you can get a daisy chain for climbing, much more versatile
@loiduongjr12 күн бұрын
Oh totally true lol. I just have this because I borrowed it indefinitely from a friend 😅😂
@tomega496713 күн бұрын
thanks for the video! i'm just wondering whether it's even necessary to do the “finger curls” from the 1st exercise, as the forearm muscles of the fingers are trained in nearly the same way when pinching?!