LOI VS NATIONAL LEVEL COMP BOULDERS | Quintuple Foot Coordo!?!?

Hey guys! Loi here. Today I’m at Allez Up Mile End to try out some competition boulders. Let me know if you have any questions down in the comments!
Hope you enjoy and we hope to bring you along for many more sessions.
Ciao!
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Chapters:
0:00 Warm Up
4:16 Red Coordination Boulder
13:40 Yellow Dynamic Boulder
18:26 Slab
Music used:
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♪ Sunflower (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • lukrembo - sunflower (royalty free vl...
♪ Biscuit (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • (no copyright music) lofi type beat “...
♪ Onion (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • (no copyright music) lofi type beat “...
♪ Chocolate (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • (no copyright music) lofi type beat “...
♪ Rose (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • lukrembo - rose (royalty free vlog mu...
♪ Butter (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • lukrembo - butter (royalty free vlog ...
♪ Dream With Tea(Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • lukrembo - dream with tea (royalty fr...
♪ Night (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • lukrembo - night (royalty free vlog m...
♪ Bake a pie (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • lukrembo - bake a pie (royalty free v...
♪ This Is For You (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • lukrembo - this is for you (royalty f...
♪ Lukrembo - Train Covered In White
♪ Lukrembo - Until Late At Night
♪ Animal Friends (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • lukrembo - animal friends (royalty fr...
♪ Home (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • lukrembo - home (royalty free vlog mu...
♪ Castle (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • lukrembo - castle (royalty free vlog ...
♪ Afternoon (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • lukrembo - afternoon (royalty free vl...
♪ Cream (Prod. by Lukrembo) Link : • (no copyright music) lofi type beat “...
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[@richardsonsclimbing]

TOTD is not trademarked go right ahead 😎 Also 15:09 is a boss ass move

[@loiduongjr]

Yeye can’t wait to get some training in with ya when you get back! Good luck 🤞

[@vfxchee9912]

most enjoyable climbing content out there rn

[@gingobingo1567]

True this guy underrated af

[@loiduongjr]

Thanks! Trying my best and glad you enjoyed!

[@nickking5778]

seriously

[@IndigoClimbs]

Rest and recovery is so important! Its the only way you build strength to be stronger the next day, week, month and year! Keep it up!

[@loiduongjr]

For real. It’s so important.

[@ajaysent9434]

These videos always make me sooooo motivated to work on myself in climbing

[@loiduongjr]

So psyched I could give you some inspiration and motivation 🙌🫶

[@user-mf1vu8hi1r]

Thursdays are my fav day of the week🤩🙌

[@loiduongjr]

Im always nervous on Thursdays 😂😭😭

[@alexanderkatz1100]

That red coordination looked so cool I would love to try it sometime. Also the blocked feet on the slab is some heinous work from the route setters ;)

[@loiduongjr]

Some really dope moves I agree :)

[@Cheeseguyfr]

Phenomenal vid as always Loi! I hope you keep in touch with your community when your channel explodes!

[@loiduongjr]

Thanks dude! I hope so too. Y’all have been amazing!

[@gregleg8894]

Dude je viens de te découvrir et en tant que nouveaux grimpeur c'est vraiment nice de savoir qu'il a du contenu comme tu le fait à Montréal💪

[@loiduongjr]

Let's gooo. Merci!

[@Kirju]

Glad I stumbled across your channel! You are very talented and the video editing / quality is 💯Looking forward to your next vids!

[@loiduongjr]

Thank you and I'm glad you enjoyed! I'll keep at it!

[@simongernaey747]

I always look forward to these videos! Great content, you're going to explode soon I can feel it! Keep grinding

[@loiduongjr]

Thank you! Keeping it up 🙏🙏

[@felixbaker8709]

Loi reminds me of the LoL player Doublelift. Just me?

[@loiduongjr]

I’ve been getting that a decent amount 😂😭

[@felixbaker8709]

@@loiduongjr 🤣 Ok I thought I was going mad hahaha

[@neterchance4708]

🔥

[@loiduongjr]

Thank you!!

[@Prestonmartin09]

I think the timestamps are the same as the moonboard vid

[@loiduongjr]

Fixed it!

[@user-ch6xl1zc6k]

Sick beta on the black tape

[@loiduongjr]

Thank you :))

[@adamhaas141]

Legendary climbing coach Eric Hörst advises climbers not to attempt to learn new skills when in a high state of fatigue as it can be counterproductive. I've heard many coaches and pros on KZbin recommend doing skill practice in your warm up or early in your session. So far, I haven't heard anyone recommend throwing in skill practice at the end of a long workout. Personally, I struggle with resting enough and knowing when to call it quits myself, but it has become pretty obvious to me that I make much quicker progress when I do a little less rather than a little more. Good luck, homie.😉

[@loiduongjr]

I said in the vlog that I was definitely overcooking it for the vlog. In any case it depends on what you are trying to get out of it. I don't lack the skill to do the slab, my biggest weakness is execution, which is exacerbated in fatigued states. This tired states are often found during competitions. My mindset towards the slab wasn't to learn something (it was relatively simple) but was to see if I could execute under fatigue and stress (which I failed).

[@adamhaas141]

@@loiduongjr Oh, that's totally valid and smart! Although I did honestly intend for my criticism to be constructive, I retract it, Good Sir.😀 I like your channel and you seem like an excellent human being. Keep doing what you're doing.👍

[@loiduongjr]

@@adamhaas141 Thanks for the kind words dude! Trying my best!

[@UndeadFil]

Salut Loi, je t'ai entendu dire dans une vidéo par le passé que tu arrives à faire 4 séances de bloc par semaine, et de ce que j'ai compris ça inclut généralement un bon 2 ou 3 heures de bouldering en full commitment, c'est ça? I guess que j'aimerais juste savoir c'est quoi le truc pour arriver à avoir un volume aussi gros d'entraînement sans être complètement épuisé et sans manquer de temps pour aussi vivre sa vie normalement. Je pose la question parce que j'ai 31 ans, je travaille à temps plein de chez moi, j'adore le bloc, je grimpe entre V6 et V8 (à l'intérieur!) et j'arrive à squeezer trois séances par semaine, souvent de peine et de misère, et ça arrive souvent qu'une de mes séances dure maximum 1h30. Si je grimpe deux jours d'affilée, j'ai zéro peau sur les doigts le 2e jour et j'ai mal aux coudes après 30 mins. Bref désolé pour le roman mais j'aimerais savoir si tu avais un conseil général ou une éthique de vie spécifique qui me permettrait de pas être complètement éclaté physiquement en pratiquant le sport que j'aime, ou si la réponse est juste "dude just get stronger lol". Dans tous les cas, très nice vlog et très impressionné par la shape et le mouvement fluide, keep it up!

[@loiduongjr]

Merci! Maintenant j’ai increase mon volume à faire du 3 days on 1 day off. Votre volume d’entraînement augmentera naturellement si vous vous entraînez correctement. La chose diffèrent et que j’ai pas la capacité de vivre un vie normal. Toutes les décisions que je prends dans ma vie ont à l’esprit mon entraînement et ma récupération. Je travaille juste assez pour payer mon loyer et ma nourriture afin d'avoir suffisamment de temps pour m'entraîner, récupérer et poursuivre la création de mon entreprise. il est impossible de le dire sans plus d'informations sur votre vie, mais j'ai l'impression que vous avez probablement beaucoup de vie en termes d'escalade et de récupération. ce n'est ni mauvais ni bon mais c'est ce qui est important pour vous. Notre seau de vie est limité et il y a des choses plus importantes que l'escalade. J'ai juste la chance d'être jeune et d'avoir la capacité de poursuivre l'escalade sans de plus grandes responsabilités.

[@timmyant2537]

Sick climbs! Also how old r u and what age did u start climbing

[@loiduongjr]

Thanks! I’m 23 and I started climbing when I was 19 (Aug 2020).

[@timmyant2537]

@@loiduongjr climbing national level boulders is insane in that amount of time, what an inspiration! I’m 17 and have been climbing for a year but only recently (past month) I have started Hangboard training twice a week. To progress as much as u did do u reckon I should Hangboard more than twice a week and when should I, before or after a climbing session or independent days. Also when u said eating is an important factor in progressing and breaking plateaus do u mean being in a calorie deficit or surplus and does protein intake matter for climbing.

[@loiduongjr]

@@timmyant2537 You should hangboard to warm up for climbing. My warm up video could be a great resource. And eating enough and fueling your training is important. You have to treat yourself like an athlete because you are one. Get a substantial amount of high quality protein!

[@AntoineCaron-qp7kv]

The fuck a red tape is V5

[@loiduongjr]

Antoine too strong