Thank you very much! Glad you like it. 😃

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching 😃

Glad to help! Thank you for watching and good luck with the Strat!

Thank you! Definitely 👍🏻

Thank you very much 😃

Thanks!

Thank you!

Check out my channel 😃 there’s some videos on there which show you how.

Thanks Howard, hope you’re well! Yeah the crowning takes a while 🥱 though it was much quicker on this one having done a few TT fretboards before…the first one took ages!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Unfortunately I think you may be out of luck, when I make a mistake like this I usually just sand or strip it off. You could try naphtha to remove it instead…on the decals I use this will dissolve the whole decal and the glue holding it.

@@mantoncustoms For your potential future reference. After soaking with warm water and a small amount of dawn dish soap, (don't know if the soap actually helped but, was part of the process I happened to use) the decal would not slide, however, I noticed I could get the edges to pull up. I was able to gently pull the edge from one end up, pulling roughly 3/4 of the decal up so as not to have it roll and stick to itself, then dab water underneath the decal with my fingertip, lay it back down, pull opposite end up, dab water under that end, then decal would slide with no issue. For anyone who may try this method - keep in mind my headstock is finished maple, so the decal slid easily. Also, once you're able to move decal, try to get it where you want as efficiently and quickly as you're able as I noticed after messing about with the decal too much, the black ink - didn't smear but, kinda broke a tiny section off the print on one of the letters in the script. Good luck!

I did a video on that part a few years kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWeni36ZiMxmjbs ago, it’ll also be on part 3 :)

Yes, I’ve done that before too.… start drilling using the hole saw, then when you’re part way through, you remove the pilot drill bit from the hole saw and drill the remainder without the drill bit attached.

@@mantoncustoms that was my guess but im not familiar with hole saws--thank you for the tip! I made some knobs a different way and drilling that middle hole separately and getting it perfect is not the business

Yep, 👍🏻 just take care if it’s a multi piece body as mentioned in the video

K I did this 😂 And the join in the body opened up a bit just like you said it would...how do I go about fixing that? You mentioned filling?

@@Univarrepoxy is best, but it’s messy stuff so make sure you don’t get it everywhere! You could mask off the rest of the body. If it’s smaller gap, super glue might work also

Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching

A custom set from Newtone (UK based string manufacturer)

Thank you! Glad to help

Thanks for watching. Yep, lots of different methods. Keeping the index pin in place also works great too. Just was easier to film this way. If I used a mill and digital read out there would be little point posting a video about it…as these videos are supposed to help people and few people will have that equipment… it’s also not needed for drilling 6 holes which can be drilled perfectly accurately like this.

@@mantoncustoms Totally agree. Keep up the good work!! Cheers...

Thanks for watching!

Thank you very much. I like the early p basses…good choice! Hope it turns out great!

Glad to help, good luck!

The masking?…3M fine line, they do it in 6mm or 3mm width

Thank you! It’s approx 99.8% pure acetone, you can buy them online in 5l bottles

No real difference in feel. There’s a video of the inventor on KZbin demonstrating I think it’s called “the bends”

Great! Good luck with the project. Sounds fun 🐍

Thank you! Yes, a great P sound!

Thank you…Yep I like the both on sound too! Actually the demo at the end was recorded with both on. Good to have the option of just selecting one though!

Thanks! Here’s a link to an eBay seller www.ebay.co.uk/str/gfgplasticsltd?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4pKUCQI7T5S&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=qmui1sLfSUy&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY. They’re calling it phenolic sheet there.

@@mantoncustoms thank you so much!

Thanks very much! 😃

Check out True Temperament on google….that’s what’s these frets are

Thanks! 😃

Thank you!

Thanks for watching! I made the handle from mild steel tube and 3/4” plywood. Stew mac also make one…but it’s expensive! You could hang the body instead if you’d prefer. Good luck with the bass project!

Thank you! 😃

Thank you! Yes TV yellow is quite a tricky one. Hope he gets it sorted for you 😃

Glad it was useful! Thanks for watching

The point of the indexing pin is to make sure the holes are straight and in line. If you drill the 1/8” bit all the way through the body, the holes will be crooked on the back. The bit will wander as it passes through the body and you will not have straight holes. Yes, there are ways to protect the top if you’re worried, about that part.

They are from Newtone (UK). They can make up to 50” in length, so just long enough for this scale and a short headstock.

@@mantoncustoms Thanks a lot

Yep, there are a quite a few differences compared to an SG…thicker, longer neck tenon, Les Paul neck pickup position, revised cutaways, more extreme carves!

Thanks! 😃