So if you’re doing a pair of earrings, why not make two rings at the same time and cut through both to keep them the same size?

Thanks

hi Chris, great video, what metal are you using to make this?

Can we see titanium earings/rings titanium- solder, joins 🙏🙏📎📎

I'm stuck at making these for weeks now. Currently studying under 2 master Goldsmiths Thanks for uploading really helps a lot to see other methods.

Have you got a brand name?

What gauge and width is that bezel flat wire? Beautiful and amazing video btw 🫶🙏

I. Love Cluster. Ring, Technic

Do. You. Sale video of. Work.,

I avoid Heart burs

I loved this video and bought some. I cannot find the video on rubber discs. Could you point me in the right direction?

The bur is not designed to cut that direction. Use a setting bur and hand file is safer than the heart bur chewing up prongs

Blaine Lewis knows his sh*t! It's an excellent video. Thanks for bringing it up, Chris!! Revese is a great trick for more controlled and less aggressive cuts. You'll get it!!

Nice

I just use a cross burr or a round. I stopped using those after many a platinum setting getting ruined lol

Was that a video with Gerry Lewy? I recall him telling us that in class i took once. I recorded the class and he wanted them put up on that "new video thing on the computers I think its called youtube" like back 15 years ago! He is a great guy if he's still around. There was so much of those sessions that didnt survive upload to youtube back then but i learned so much from him. Lots of tips and such. Great teacher! The tip like any technique takes practice but its a good way for beginners to keep in mind if they have a heavy foot.

I'm moving to Japan in November, and I'm looking for resources and a community. I rent studio space right now, and we are trying to navigate where I can work and equipment I can get there.

As lot of ppl say when working in silver you gave to hear the whole piece to bring it up to soldering temperature. You don’t seem to do that. Do you find it unnecessary?

great advice and i agree everyone should work comfortably...however i would never be caught dead trying to fiddle and pre cut a seat unless its in something already. if i ever need to cut a champfer or seat then i do it while its in the ring or pendant or whatever so i have more to hold onto cuz trying to hold so many tiny things will destroy your hands and cause immense pain if doing it for many jobs at once.

Why would you round off the *bar* to match the internal curvature? What I do, is just cut and file flat, fractionally too large. And then file very slightly with a square needle file. Much easier to get a precise flat; quicker. And as long as it is a tight fit (and you want that anyway), the solder join will be invisible anyway.

great thing thank you! how do you tear the paper to go on to the next layer?

I think the way to go about it is to make the shank a bit longer than needed and then sweat the ends back into balls that you can then hammer (large hammer on the edge of a heavy vice works well) This will get you the width and if sufficiently skilled produces a knife edge shank that you can roll up. The guy who trained me often did this bit for me, he made it look so easy, I would beat the crap out of it and leave huge marks in the metal but he always seemed to hit it just right to manipulate the metal. Unlike with the mills, he could spread it exactly where he wanted and get a smooth taper.

Thanks for the info.

What is best color of polish to take off lots of material, for deep cuts in metal

I drive myself nutty trying to get stuff perfect. Seem right when I get towards the end of a project, something always happens. Never ever perfect.....

very true point, i believe everyone should aim for perfection in their work but expecting it is somethin only fools do. just do the best you can and improve a little each time, never will be perfect every time but can definitely make it look perfect even if it isnt

Where do you get your ring blanks and stones from to practice with please?

Much harder than it seems.

You're being spam attacked Chris - there were 406 thumbs down on this within 25 minutes... with 15 'views' so far?

It does look like a totally different piece of gold from the start to the finish

great

Clever!

here's another tip...just use the square punch to mark the four corners, no need to use the ruler...the punch is perfectly square. cheers

Thanks for explaining the difference…. It really makes a lot of since… I use “vallarbe spelt wrong” Swiss files too. I heard that German files are really good and more affordable. I like the hand room on these handmade Japan files… I’m definitely looking for good needle files. Thanks for the information. Hugs 🤗, Michelle

Chris you should try out the saw from KnewConcepts. Cheers mate

Just found your video! Thanks for the helpful tips. Can you post a link to your lamp? Or site the brand? Thank you!

I am using antilope long time. You need make a hole under the place where balde is. In the other way blade will jump out

thanks for the video, I just use liquid white-out brush it on any area you don't want solder to flow

These are also sold as a Grober TS122 frame, have both frames you have here, the TS122 is certainly my favourite for technical work

There’s a channel called ‘Ken HawleyCollection Trust’ which, amongst other things, goes into the old way files were hand made in Sheffield. Nice to see an industry that died in the UK is still alive in Japan. There’s definitely a different feel you get with hand made tools, nice to see your review thanks!

those handmade files look very nice to handle in comparison. i like them quite a bit tbh, still needs to be polished on the top angles imo so the rough top side doesnt scratch or file anything other than what is intended for the barrett files. a lot of us end up making our own tools since jewelry tool manufacturers are way out of touch with how theyre used or any inconveniences. u got some nice files there man, once tuned up im sure you will love to use them for a long time.

as a part time home jeweller that did a bunch of blacksmithing before hand, i have actually been thinking of making my own files by hand, especially after watching clicksprings videos, as mentioned in another comment here. i think the process could be fun, and give me something exactly as i want.

These are nice, frankly I thought they are going to be crude pieces of metal. Have you seen the Clickspring's videos on making files ancient way? :)

Chris, I can't find that saw frame. All I see are Antilope saw blades. Neither "harp" or "Antilope" generates a source. I'm interested. Do you have any more info? Thank you.

So, since your all about diamonds, I'm sure you know very well the history and deceipt behind the rise of the diamond! I'm sure you understand that a diamond is carbon- one of the most common elements on earth. Im guessing you must understand that diamonds are the imposter gem and ONLY started to be considered valuable after an aggressive marketing campaign headed by a close relative of Freud. I AM 100% sure that EVERYONE in the business will claim and hold to that value like its a lifeline...since so much money has already been invested into them. But I would love people to see diamonds are only worth what they are because we were all deceived into believing they are rare and otherwise would be priced considerably lower than sapphires rubies and emeralds. Their true value would hover around the same price as topaz as their main use was industrial. Diamonds weren't used for engagement rings until after the 1920s. Diamonds are not mentioned in ancient treasures. They weren't shipped across seas for royalty. Pirates didn't fight and kill over diamonds. It was gold or silver or rubies or emeralds etc. Because these things have actual value.

That GRA cert is laughable, it means nothing. He bought a poor quality moissy because of that "certification". No wonder he's not nice about that stone. Good quality moissanites still dont get certified. I paid 2K for a high quality 9mm square cushion moissanite, I paid for a custom cut. It looks like a brilliant diamond.

I have used frames with new designs that clamp the blade ends with screws, the way your new saw does. For very fine saw blades I actually prefer to use the cheaper frames that pinch the end of the blade with a small square of metal, rather than the point of a screw. They seem to hold the finer blades batter. I have trouble getting the screw tip ones to hold the blade end securely. I think "coping saws" are actually a tiny bit different, in their blade ends have small pins in them that the frame holds onto. Jewelers blades have no pins.

Who makes the new frame?

any saw blade without winged nuts is unusable to me, i dont like the crappy rounded screws or the plastic garbo turn thingys. my two saw frames are easily 50 years old wooden with steel and winged nuts. sure it may weigh 1000x what the new ones do but its a tank that never fails and the weight can be used as an advantage when down cutting