I just scrolled through the videos and found your post and then I just sit and watch your video for 1 hour 😂 That was so good

I can't even get mine off and running think I need a new design or just forget the project all together 😢

FYI. As a lifelong machinist I can say stainless is not a good material for this application. as you discovered it has a tendency to gall. which is the scoring you found on the sides of the blades. And while most people think stainless is the end all be all ultimate material, it is not. In fact its actually pretty soft. Unless you get into the 400 series of stainless. like 410 or 440. you would have been better off using plain old mild steel as opposed to stainless. Would have been cheaper too. Something than could be heat treated would be even better. But through trial and error you do have a working machine. thanks for sharing your journey.

Tack welding the water table then apply silicone will save you money and time, very nice video

There’s a band called Television from the 70s, they were ahead of the game!!!

Any more cnc videos coming ? Also did you check for "tool wear" in regards to tolerance issues ? For example your 6mm endmill might actually be 5.95mm-6.05mm. Even if there is no tool wear you could try putting tool wear in the software anyway to see if it gets you closer to the desired size cuts. (almost like a work around due to your last video saying backlash compensation didnt seem to work)

Why not use a gate driver or even a p chanel mosfet as a gate driver for a n chanel mosfet? Optocoupler would work as well like you said.

Where to sell recycled plastic?

Large customers could often order chips like this with custom character set ROMs. That might explain the difference you found in the character set. Usually one of the numbers on the chip indicates whether it has a standard or custom ROM. This video was great info. Thank you!

Very nice and super educational. Thanks.

Excellent tutorial! Thank you.

I would do this, but an arduino is only $20.

Outstanding video. You look pretty young (from a 60 year old perspective). If this was 5 years ago you must be on a Mad Scientist level by now. Mad Scientist enough to be a good adversary to Austion Powers!!

Of course this video is 5 years old now. Not sure if you're still responding. I'm curious about your electronics training background at the time of this video?? Surely you're not just a hobbyist and figured this stuff out on your own!??! Do you have a degree, technical training background??? Very good video by the way.

A 5-7hp motor wouldn't require a "behemoth" VFD. A brand new 4kW Yaskawa GA500 costs us about $470 in the UK - or half that for a Chinesium equivalent. If you really believe the motors are full of copper and graphite dust, you need to dismantle them and clean them up - doesn't take long. A 0.5 Ohm resistor isn't going to do much for you.

I am looking for a good shredder for filament recycling, does anyone know of an inexpensive option? Is it okay to ask here?

this is for computing experts thanks anyway

Looks like a total ripoff of electroboom, not even watching this crap

This is the content we need in the world. Bravo

We Need to desolder the wire! [cuts the wire]

Nice

How can I transmit camera's stream wirelessly with analog signal by a raspberry pi zero?

6:19…that wiring….😢😢

Wow.. i need this, how much?

I think you should place the the on baking paper and then cover it in the second paste that you made then roll it up like you would a roll of cookies. Then dry it in the oven rolled up really tight like that cause the the paper is bakeable even dry. Then once they are dry you will have your stick with no paper. Getting rid of the paper will probably make your welds less porous

Honestly I just fell in love with VFDs and this info is invaluable to me. Thanks for the great vid.

I made this mistake of making that last circuit with a C3496 npn and a despite a massive reverse bias FR diode across the C &E blew my bench supply to sh.t. Ought to have used a dodgy tranny and H bridge. Oh well now i have more debugs to run...bugger.

just make a zvs oscillator

can u give us an estimate amount of how much you've spent?

Where to buy in uganda

You are an amazing engineer...! Learned a lot from this video..! Cant Thank You enough..! I have a suggestion/Request. Nobody has made tutorial videos on PLC Based CNC Controllers...! I think because of complexity in configuration.! I think nowadays many companies have made plug and play/relatively easy to configure solutions..! Wecon is an example..! LX6v PLC Gcode Controler+VD3 servo package..! Can You do Setup and Configuration principles behind such Industrial grade Gcode Based PLC Units? I think there are function blocks to be configured..! Complex techniques..! But there are not much such tutorials...! Can You contact such companies ? I think they will sponsor such videos as it gets introduced to public ..!

Rip that controller off and put a Mesa on it

Thank you for a truly amazing and enjoyable video! I am currently building a new CNC machine, which will be a 3-in-1 machine: router, plasma cutter and laser engraver/cutter. And yes, also using LinucCNC and a Mesa 7i96S. Please allow me to make one suggestion. For the X and Y axes, I would recommend to place two tubes on top of each other, to limit deflection of the axes, preferably with some spacers between them every 10 inches or so. Those spacers can be made as 4 inch segments of steel tubes. The resulting axes and gantry would be much more robust, increasing the accuracy of your machine. And since you are a great welder, it would also extend the fun during the build process :) I think that in your current setup, if you would measure the flatness of your router bed, you would find that it is quite concave, as the result of deflection of the axes during the routing process. It may be good enough for your current needs, but I think that achieving much better flatness and overall robustness and accuracy of your machine at a relatively low cost would be a great investment, and make your machine more future proof as well (e.g. if you want to install a bigger/heavier router spindle).

Interesting experiment although without any usefulness. Imagine to build a stereo amplifier with 4 of those CRTs for portable use then you will need a pick up truck to carry it around !! By the way I'm electronics technician and I repair and build tube amplifiers and radios with normal tubes :)

Can you get arc's from just using the original circuit board from the crt tv?

Great video. I suggest trying a blade layout that pushes the plastic from the sides towards the center. All of the people I've seen try these shredders align the blades in a way that pushes the plastic to one side and end up with asymmetric forces that deform the metal just like you saw. Also, you probably need a second stage to shred into pellets, so using the paper shredder there might work.

Please do NOT discharge a CRT that way. You stand a good chance of zapping yourself and other parts of the set. Any stored (undischarged) EHT of around 25,000 volts is between the inside and outside of the glass of the CRT. It acts as a capacitor. To discharge a CRT you should ONLY discharge between the aquadag (the gritty black/grey conductive carbon paint on the outside of the CRT) and the ultor cap (that suction cup looking thing). FIRST connect your discharge wire to the aquadag. This can be done to any metal grounding straps around the CRT that DIRECTLY touches the aquadag. THEN slide the other end under the ultor cap. Make sure that ONLY this discharge wiring connects the two together. Do not let yourself be in the middle, nor other parts of the set. What you did only attaches one thing to the EHT, the other part of your discharge circuit was through everything else nearby, which could include you. For what it's worth, most modern sets discharge the tube at switch off (if not faulty). If you've seen a set's whole screen flash white for a brief moment at switch off, that's it discharging the CRT. But CRTs can recharge while you work on a set, just from picking up static electricity as you move about. For that reason you MAY want to leave the discharge wire shorting out the tube while the set is unplugged and you're modifying things. Naturally you MUST remove it before applying power. Also realise a set can discharge through the pins on the electron gun in the neck.

your awesome . ive learnt a lot from you thank you . ill have to play with coils again some day . i never realy sat down and played with mosfets but always wanted too .

Sloppy balls will get you every time.........

Which language code is that, machine language, assembly or C

Thank you for letting us learn as you were learning. That is real teaching. I see that you will do great things in helping others. Good luck. Jim

Today I've just started using an old Samsung 16x1 board with the OKI M9202 driver that I found 20 years ago. I've got my first few words displayed, I write in assembler, using Microchip PIC chips.

At 4:15 you mention adding resistors to trick the TV. How do I go about figuring out what kind of resistor to use? High wattage, yes, but how high? I used a 5W resistor and that got scalding hot

How interesting that was,thanks

how did you connect the audio cables to the amp?

You did a great job of trial and error and keeping at it! I see what your problem is with your blade teeth layout. The assembly as a whole layout needs to be one in which the turning direction constantly pulls any gripped plastic into it as the blade teeth rotate though the cutting wall so plastic is constantly pulled in and cut apart. The best layout for that is a staggered but tight spiral If your blades were thinner. Make use of those thinner teeth but spread them out in rotation to where a stagger will always have a tooth rotating through the cutting wall or is just about to. That keeps the force of pull in for pinched plastic. That would also cut down the shred grain making the shredded plastic smaller. With your current layout, there is not a constant lineup of your teeth to pull in. There is a lined up cutting row then space, lined up cutting row and space, that is why you are getting the feed rejection and bottles jumping in the space between the teeth turning through the cutting wall. Its a grab, let go, grab, let go type of layout. Even thinner blades would give you more pulling force versus what you have there with them paired together and you would need quite a bit more of them so they don't deform. The close stacking effect helps to ward off that. 2 tight complete spirals that were split in the middle and then offset so they are a bit out of phase with each other is one idea or go with the classic V. Blade teeth in the middle hit the cutting wall first then taper out and back on both sides to the end of the shaft. One side of your V could be a more acute teeth taper angle back in rotation and the other side more obtuse for grabbing larger plastic pieces. Different pulling forces, are achieved by the tighter spirals, they never have that air gap and never let go. All that matters is the rotation of the teeth through the wall being constant enough to keep the plastic pulling into the entire blade assembly. I keep thinking of Whoopi Goldberg in Jumping Jack Flash where her dress is caught in the office shredder which almost leaves her naked. The pulling force is strong like that with some shredders having more thin cutting teeth that never let the objects go. They play the numbers game because the higher the number of teeth rotating through the cutting wall at almost the same time means quicker shredding. Its like the design of your paper shredder. The teeth were not the biggest problem it was the motor and electronics. That tooth layout grips things very well. Great video, thanks for posting it!

very helpful Thank you

Hi. Nice help tanks i m making a digital clock using a vfd display kmm3000 😊

Can you share a circuit diagram with the proper protection included?

Or you could just install arduino ide on the pc. I jest. Great video.