@@nathan4919 thanks, yeah I figured I’d give alittle sneak peek of the sound. More videos to come of the process and then after it’s installed going over everything.

@@6SPEEDMedia thanks bud.

@@stephanienorris3959 yeah seems to be a common problem with those cars. That should take care of your issue. Thanks for watching.

@@tbaker976 mine are the original ones, I’m not sure where you could get them new, perhaps Dennis carpenter or LMC or nation parts depot, not sure. Could always check eBay for a nice set of originals. Good luck on your search and good luck on your install, it’s a real nice setup and I love how mine turned out. Thanks for watching.

@FastFords289 thanks for the reply! And looking forward to upgrading my speakers!

@ no problem, I think you’ll be really pleased with the results.

@@timmiller260 I’ve never seen tabs in the valve covers, only the the thin wall where the breather ports are. The oil flipper tabs on the rockers shouldn’t be hitting the valve covers either, all Cleveland’s have them. Perhaps try a thicker gasket, I use rubber gaskets and make sure your tabs aren’t bent on the rockers. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.

@@johnkradoska1577 thanks bud much appreciated. You’re welcome, glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.

@@Euguimonroy I mean it won’t hurt it especially if it’s an old engine with a lot of miles because it’ll be looser than a newer one but it is a bit thick from what I’d run. I usually run 10w30, 10w40 or diesel 15w30 oil. So you can run it till your next oil change.

@@BrylanandLisa I got mine from a junkyard in an old truck, like you I don’t like the black ones either, I was lucky to find this one and it was in good shape. I’d recommend looking in junkyards or eBay, the windows fit from 73-to the early 90’s so they’re some what easy to come across. Good luck on your find, and also very nice truck, I love these old 70’s dentside trucks. Thanks for watching.

@@fastidious_ford I just measured the holes out even across, there’s three clips on each side of the trim, then there’s three studs on the back of the center piece. Luckily the clips were already on the trim so I didn’t have to buy any but ecklers might sale them. Wish I could give more info on the clips, as far as the bottom checkered trim I think there’s 5 or 6 clips, I just spaced them out evenly and measured them and drilled them out on the car. Also as a side note, the holes drilled are alittle bigger than the stud on the trim to allow them to settle in place, that’s how the factory did them. Glad you enjoy the videos and can give you info or ideas for your project. Thanks for watching.

@FastFords289 thank you for responding! The panels on the sides on the emblem I'm not worried about. I have the clips for those. The bottom checkered panel was the one I was curious about as you mentioned you only had 2 of them. I have 3 in total. But obviously need more. I was curious where you got yours from. Your videos have definitely been very helpful.

@ you’re welcome, glad to help when I can. Oh yeah I think I did have to get some for the checker board now that you say that. I can’t remember the size or part number but I’m fairly sure I got them from ecklers auto parts. I’d have to see if I still have a bag with a couple in them but it’s been so long ago now I doubt I do. I’d measure the width you’d need then go on their website and look through their clip selection and find ones with the right sizes. That’s what I had to do since they don’t actually list any for those moldings. If ecklers doesn’t have any then I’d try Dennis carpenter or even Cj pony parts. It doesn’t matter what vehicle they’re for as long as it’s the size you need. Hope this helps.

@@FastFords289 yes it does. Thank you for the responses! I checked ecklers. But maybe I was looking in the wrong spot. I will look again and check the others as well. I appreciate the insight and responses!

@ you’re most welcome, glad to help. Hope you find the parts you need.

@@NickHolt-n9w thanks bud, much appreciated, glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.

@@johndeeregreen4592 very nice, you’re very welcome I’m glad it worked for you. Yeah the dealers are rip off’s anyway, and have the time don’t know what the problem is or just don’t want to fix it. Glad my video saved you some time and money bud, thanks for watching.

@@KenJohnson-x3l it’s an old chiltons manual from the 70’s/80’s.

@@Kachow1116 very cool, hell yeah go for it, it’s definitely a nice feature having the shifter in the floor. Good luck on your install. Thanks for watching.

@@KenJohnson-x3l same here, I hadn’t ever heard of it until I was looking through open tracker racing one night just seeing what they had and seen it. It does make a difference though and easy to do.

@@KenJohnson-x3l thanks, yeah it’s a nice setup and fitment, I was just lookin for a spot to put it and ended up there, I was debating between the fender apron and there, but on the firewall is more hidden. Wilwood might sale just the reservoir if that’s all you need. Hope you can get one to mount it where you want it better, glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching.

@@KenJohnson-x3l thanks bud. Much appreciated, thanks for watching.

@@robertmccully2792 it’s for an electric assisted choke for the carburetor.

@@FastFords289 So your saying it is 12 volt when key is on.

@ it’s 12v with the car running. That’s where I hook my electric choke up and that’s also where ford hooked it up back in the day.

@@FastFords289 thanks

@ no problem.

@@davidparker7777 you’re welcome, glad you enjoyed the video. I wouldn’t recommend using wheel bearing grease, it probably wouldn’t hurt anything but grease gets dirtier over time, the petroleum jelly is cleaner and happens to leak through the cable into the transmission it’ll blend right in and won’t hurt anything. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.

@@chrismauro3915 thank you, I didn’t change them on this application but I’d recommend it. This engine doesn’t perform as well as it could, but seeing how it’s a stock engine I just installed what I had on the shelf and didn’t worry about it. Plus I don’t intend on leaving this engine in this car, if I was leaving it I would have invested in the time to install new springs and adjustable rocker arms. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.

@@roberthirshfield3571 I’m in NC

@@Donny.C.wlWilliams yeah there’s deeper pans but on my application it wouldn’t work because it’s going in my 76 ford truck 2wd and there’s a crossmember that runs under the oil pan so the stock one is really the only one that would work and also I want to keep it mostly a stock build. I’m running an oil pan for a 400/351m which came on those trucks and works perfectly. Thanks for the suggestion though and thanks for watching.

@@nathankoroush7918 you’re very welcome, yeah you don’t see these old brake controllers much anymore and now there’s a lot of people that don’t even k ow about them so I thought it be cool to cover one. Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching.

@@wayneodonnell8847 thanks bud, glad you’re enjoying the content. Oh man, lucky, it’s hard to come by a set of Aussie heads here in the U.S. yeah it’s not a perfectly accurate method but works well enough. Good luck on your build, thanks for watching.

I run th Australian 302 2V quench chamber heads on my Cleveland. They are 60cc chambers after milling .005.

@ very nice, yeah those Aussie 2v heads are hard to beat but also hard to find. I looked for some but couldn’t find any, which in my application I should have around 9-1/2:1 roughly which is perfect for my build, didn’t want too much compression. Very cool build though and thanks for watching.

@FastFords289 I run 93 octane with 11to1 static compression. I also run a port matched single plane Xcelerator intake.

@ yeah you’re pretty much tied to it, my buddy’s 400 has 11:1 and he has to run 93. I wanted to stay around 9-1/2 to 10:1 compression. It works better and is more friendly for daily driving especially with today’s fuel. I always run non ethanol and around here I can only find 89 octane. However 11:1 is great for more of a hot rod set up which is what my 68 fastback will be when I build the Cleveland for it.

@@Chuck-h6r thanks bud I’m glad you enjoy the videos. Yeah this was one of my early videos and didn’t always put part numbers and etc in them. I got the lights from superbrightLED’s.com, I assume they’re multi directional or I just got lucky installing them however I do have one that isn’t working, the left turn indicator in the dash so that might be why, I just haven’t tore the dash back apart to flip the light around yet to see if that’s the issue. Very cool car and good luck on your install/ upgrade, hope this helps. Thanks for watching.

@@shiltzyt7688 unfortunately I don’t have the truck anymore, it’s my cousins but I could probably do a tutorial on another vehicle just to show how to do it. Not sure when I’d get to it at the moment though because I’m currently busy with other projects but thanks for the suggestion. Thanks for watching.

@@TheFrameoff thank you, much appreciated. Yeah you can’t beat the old Cleveland engines, they run strong. Thanks for watching.

@@roberthirshfield3571 oh yeah that are great, I’d imagine they last virtually forever, less friction, no rubber bushings to wear out. Thanks for watching.

@@machdogblue yeah that’s one way to go about it, same thought process as freezing a bearing to make it easy to install in a press fit. Nice input, thanks for sharing and thanks for watching.

@@markbreaux6613 very cool, yeah I got mine from CJ pony parts, it’s their Cj classics line and I got the hub that bolts to the column then you screw the steering wheel down to the flange and then insert the horn button. I’m not familiar with the Nardi brand so I couldn’t tell you on that one, but good luck on your install and hope this helped in some way. Thanks for watching.

@FastFords289 Yes sir thanks for the reply, 👍😎🇺🇸💪

@ you’re most welcome.

Thank you I’m glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.

@@skylpatt thank you, much appreciated, I’m glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.

You’re welcome, I’m glad it worked for you. Thanks for watching and much appreciate the donation.

Yeah the quality control on parts now is ridiculous, just got to work through it even though you shouldn’t have to. Thanks for watching.

That would work for security reasons but I mainly made mine to keep the tire from falling out. Thanks for watching.

Well, it did the trick Thank you!

@@robr6082 you’re welcome, hopefully that takes care of it for you, sometimes gotta do it several times. Thanks for watching.

@ cool, glad it worked for you, you’re very welcome.

@@texascountry6674 100%, glad it worked for you and you got the vehicle fixed. Thanks for sharing your experience and thanks for watching.

@@geth__commands_6300 no it wouldn’t have any effect on that, it would just shift real quick. I’d look at your carburetor adjustment and check for any vacuum leaks. You can take carb cleaner or brake cleaner and spray around the engine as it runs and listen for change in idle and see where your vacuum leak is coming from if you have one. You can also hook a smoker up to one of your vacuum lines as the engine runs and then smoke will come out of any leaks. Hope this helps, good luck and thanks for watching.

@@stevereid5885 you must be building a high performance/racing engine, very cool indeed.

No it’s still stock 351 stroke. I might do a 393 or 408 stroker for the 68 fastback though. Thanks for watching.

@@stevereid5885 thanks bud, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your build as well. Thanks for watching.

@@brianhamm7297 well I ended up not keeping the automatic floor shift, I converted it to a T5 manual but changing the column is still the same process. I didn’t do a full video on converting it to a manual back then but I didn’t make a video talking about what I did and how I did it. Thanks for watching.

Mine still worked as normal just had a leaking of vacuum sound. Thanks for watching.

@@jaaxxone that’s interesting, I didn’t know that, thanks for the tip and great info, I’ll have to remember that for the future if I ever need one again. Thanks for watching.

Solid gold, jaaxxone! Thanks!

@@yoknowkyoknow9935 yeah you’re perfectly fine, the brand doesn’t matter and ATF fluid is what is used in the power steering so no need to worry. Thanks for watching.

@@angiehart3896 you’re welcome, glad my video helped you out, this is one of the common problems on these cars but luckily a simple fix. Thanks for watching.

@@andrewgageable no I haven’t found anything small enough to go down in there to clean it but it’s not really that important. As long as you apply new grease then it’ll lubricate it and kinda reactivate the old grease and all blend together. I’ve never had an issue with mine so you’ll be good to go. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.

@@rogerfeenstra9496 you’re welcome, thank you, glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. Thanks for watching.

@@VWBaja that’s awesome, congratulations, I’m glad you enjoy the videos and that they are helpful to you. Good luck on your new truck and hope hope I can keep helping you along the way. Thanks for watching.

@@FastFords289 I'm thinking about ordering the Borgeson steering shaft. 2 questions for ya... First, did you notice a difference in the feel of the steering wheel/vibration due to the lack of the rag joint? Second, and this may be a dumb question but.. Do you need 2 universal joints and the slider? I have a short bed 4x4 with a 400 motor in it, and from just looking at it, the Power Steering gear box is hard mounted to the frame. So, is there that much movement needed for "flex" with the slider, and can you get away with just one Univeral joint? I don't see a slider on the OG shaft. TY.

@ nice truck, that’s what mine is, 4x4 short bed with the 400, great trucks. So to answer the first question, no i don’t notice a difference in feel as far as vibration but it did make it feel tighter, my original shafts Ujoint at the steering column had play so even after changing the rag joint it had slop and installing that shaft did help. To answer the second question, I don’t suppose you need two because it’s almost a straight shot from column to gearbox but that’s what the shaft comes with is two unjoints. If you think about it, it’s basically the same as the stock shaft just instead of a rag joint it has two ujoints instead of one. The original shaft has a Ujoint at the column and a rag joint at the box which basically acts as a joint but you could probably get away with one Ujoint though but i haven’t tried it. The slider is just for adjustment to fit different models as you have to cut it to length anyway plus I will say it’s nice to have because if you need to take the shaft loose from the gearbox for some reason, you can just slide it back instead of pulling the steering column back. Long response but hope this helps.

@FastFords289 great answer, ty. Planning phase, Engaged! Can't wait to start wrenching...just to damn cold latley..😬

@ you’re welcome, glad to help. I hear ya on that, I blast my diesel heater almost nonstop lol. I working on my 76 now to install a 351c and it’s cold at night.

@@mikestombock313 you’re welcome, I’m glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. Yeah the dashes can be a bit tight especially with factory ac. Thanks for watching.