@@jeromeneely202 the spec is .0011-.0028 so it’s right in the middle which is perfect, right where you wanna be, too tight and you can have a spun bearing or premature bearing wear. Thanks for watching.

@@chrisrobertson911 actually it’s 2:07 Thanks for watching.

@@yai8898 I do but I never use it and never get on to check anything, it’s an old account. Even though I appreciate the compliment wanting my help but I wouldn’t consider myself an expert, just a guy working in his garage but I wouldn’t consider myself be glad to help with what I can, and hopefully my videos as well as others can help you through your build. Tim myer also sales a book just on Cleveland’s, 400’s and 351m’s, that might be a big help also. Good luck on your project, thanks for reaching out and thanks for watching.

@@6SPEEDMedia that’s exactly why I blow it out, so I don’t leave any lol 😂. Thanks for watching bud.

@FastFords289 always good content keep it up

@ thanks bud, much appreciated.

@@danonoveh8114 agreed, but I guess after 50 years it’s not really surprising. Thanks bud, much appreciated. Thanks for watching.

@@Mark-b6q thank you, you’re welcome, glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.

@@Crooked2455 it’s a penetrating oil- any oil is a lubricant, and for something like tapping a hole to clean threads works perfectly fine, never had an issue. Thanks for watching.

Clean and Dry is what matters.

@@holtforrest yeah sounds like there’s a short somewhere between the fuse block to the fan, it could be the relay taken a dump, since there’s something blowing fuses, after so many times it could have effected the relay or possibly your blower motor has shorted out and not working. Have you tried taking a test lead or multi meter to see if you’re getting power out of the wire coming from the power source to the blower motor, if so then you know it’s the blower motor. If not though then there’s somewhere from the motor back. Good luck, if you have any other questions feel free to ask, I’ll try to help the best I can. Thanks for watching.

@@6SPEEDMedia thanks bud, much appreciated. Yeah I can’t wait, it’s gonna be real nice. Thanks for watching.

@@TheFrameoff yeah pretty much, I have stainless steel valves, positive stop seals, with alittle stronger spring and damper spring to match the cam. I toyed with the idea of adjustable rockers but decided to keep the standard bolt down rockers and I’ll just shim them since I already had the heads done. Yeah the Cleveland family 335 series engines are the best ford ever made in my opinion, I love em. Thank you, much appreciated and will do. Thanks for watching.

@@TheFrameoff no it’s 30 over bore, turned 10 on the cranks main bearing journals and stock rod bearing journals.

Agreed

@@dalehess6265 much appreciated, glad you enjoy the content. Yeah I plan on making a series out of it and then maybe editing it all together at the end for a full length build for anyone who might wanna watch it. Thanks for being a supporter and watching.

@@AtomicSkunk347 much appreciated bud, thanks for being a supporter and watching.

@@markbreaux6613 lol agreed, the side affects afterwards though might not be worth the deal lol. Thanks for watching.

@@NaixelMan very nice, glad I could give some tips and help out to get your car going again, good luck on your install. You’re very welcome, thanks for watching.

@@dirtymikeandtheboyz2570 thanks bud, I really appreciate the compliment. Hopefully my videos can help you work through your issues and learn something new along the way and then you too will be better than a mechanic. Thanks for watching.

@@dirtymikeandtheboyz2570 lol that’s a bit of a stretch for me bud, clear across the country. I hope my videos are som whelp to you though. Thanks for watching.

@@dirtymikeandtheboyz2570 you’re very welcome, glad you enjoy the videos. Thanks for being a supporter and watching.

@@bubba9823 yeah first one for me lol, but all good now, upgraded performance leaf springs.

@@bubba9823 oh yeah I know what their reason for it was but still doesn’t make sense. I can’t say I’ve ever heard a steel on steel timing chain when an engine is running unless it’s really sloppy. It’s not like a gear drive, those are noisy. I think that was just their way to get you to come back to the dealer for more money or just an engineer coming up with some new idea for a paycheck. Thanks for watching.

@@MSJDesign I will be uploading update videos as I go as well as some tech tips in there now and then too. Glad you enjoy the content. Thanks for watching.

@@J_rios433 thanks lol much appreciated. Been waiting a long time for this. Thanks for watching.

@@themissourimadman wow that’s insane, I bet that was a hell of a rush to feel that torque it put out. Yeah back in the day mechanics had to make things work, now they have stroker kits and oiling upgrades you can buy which is great, and it’s thanks to people like your cousin, if it wasn’t for them we wouldn’t know what we know now. Thanks for watching.

@@hemistyle8580 yeah it’s hard to beat a good ole 335 series engine, but especially the 351c. Thanks for watching.

@@toywrench1 agreed, I’m gonna be running standard 2v heads but with some upgrades, I’ll be posting about those soon enough, so hope you stay tuned. Thanks for watching.

@@douglasphillips24 absolutely agree, I love these engines, they’re my favorite engine that ford ever built, I love the whole Cleveland family, 351c,400,351m. I don’t think they get enough love or appreciation. Thanks for watching.

@@bigblockford3059 thank you, much appreciated. Thanks for watching.

@@capo8161 nice car, that’s weird though I’ve never seen the pedal actually get sucked down to the floor, but yeah the I bolt threads on the stud, as far as where to get one I’m not quite sure. Maybe check summit racing perhaps, wish I could be more help. Yeah the scoop was already on there when I bought the car, which I like but it’s not quite in the correct location, which my hood is bad anyway so I’ll install it properly when I get a new hood. I wish you luck trying to find a good used one, I’ve tried but they’re all rusted or dented, your best bet is to buy a new one like I’m gonna do and cut the hole in the hood. They’re not cheap but at least it’ll be a good clean straight hood to work with. Good luck on your repairs, and thanks for watching.

@@delayp1965 thank you, much appreciated. Thanks for watching.

@@flashgordon6238 yeah true that would work as well, I just picked that up at the hardware store and modified it to use, works great. Yeah you’re probably right I shouldn’t do that, thanks for the tip. I usually use and actual grinding wheel but just grabbed that and went with it and I usually do use a drilling lubricant but didn’t have any on hand right then and it was just one hole so I didn’t worry about it. Very keen eye though and great tips, much appreciated. Thanks for watching.

@@FastFords289 I gave you a thumbs up too. Nice to see guys come up with their own fixes rather than paying some shop. That's what made America great and DIY'ers.

@ much appreciated bud, and I agree, we used to have mechanics and engineers, and things built to last, no it’s a throw it away and buy another society so I appreciate it. Thanks for being a supporter and thanks for watching.

@@sheldonkepley4585 thanks bud I really appreciate that, and yeah I try to always respond because if it wasn’t for people like you watching then this channel wouldn’t be growing like it is and I appreciate all y’all. Plus I like helping people and showing something maybe someone might not know or think of and vice versa. I’ve had people comment and give ideas and I’m like you know I like that, thanks. Then I’ve always had debates with people which is fun as long as they’re civil about it. So thank you for being a supporter and watching. P.s. very nice, what year Torino are you building, love those cars.

@@ZakMuzic very nice, yeah it connects to the back of the intake in the vacuum tree where you power brakes would be connected if you had power brakes. Good luck on the install. Thanks for watching.

@@sheldonkepley4585 because it’s a fairlane 500, I installed the c stripe because I’ve always liked them but obviously couldn’t remove the trim because there would be holes so I plan on removing the trim when I do the body work. Also a fun fact, my car is a 68 but I installed the 69 stripe and tail light panel and grille because I like them better, don’t know if you noticed. I also plan on installing the 69 fastback 3 hash marks on the sail panel vs the 5 that 68 has. Thanks for watching.

​@@FastFords289 i see, yes i remember the grill, front and rear form another video, nice car. great job!

@ ok so you’ve seen them, cool. Thanks for following along and thanks for watching.

@@Brimstone667 very cool, well it really comes down to preference, some say not to do it that way and some do, I can tell you from my experience I’ve done many this way and never once had an issue with it. In fact ford wired them to the alternator in the early days on some. So you can wire it to the alternator on the stator terminal and you’ll be just fine and it’ll work as intended. Good luck on your install and thanks for watching.

@@FastFords289 thank you so much, gonna try it that way

@@cbrouma8014 absolutely, I ordered an aluminum one that is made to run the more standard typical style like a 302 or Windsor, instead of the one with the hat made on it, easier to find the more typical one. I’ve got a video where one talk about it on my channel. Thanks for all the tips and advice, I like seeing other Cleveland family members out there. Thanks for watching.

@@cbrouma8014 yeah they are a great modification, however this is more of a stock build with slight modifications, I’m building it for my truck as a towing and cruising engine, so it’s not really needed, a high volume oil pump will serve the purpose on what I want to keep good oil flow along with the modifications I’m doing. I’m not done with the block yet, I’m waiting to get it back from the machine shop and then I’ll be doing more videos on it. Thanks for the tips and suggestions though. Thanks for watching.

@FastFords289 depending on clearances youll have 110psi oil pressure on a cold start with a HV pump

@ yeah I knew it would be around 100 especially being new, once it breaks in it’ll drop alittle but should stay around 40 at idle once warmed up.

@@FastFords289 for what its worth im my opinion your better of with a mellings standard volume oil pump and ask the machine shop to shim the pressure spring for you with a 3/16 shim. The HV pumps are nothing but trouble, if your after longevity they will cause premature wear on the distributor gear and they are renowned for oil cavitation. Good luck with it ill stay tuned, sounds like your knowledgable and on the right track.

@ I’ve ordered a new original style duraspark custom built improved distributor from D.U.I Performance distributors built for my application and ordered a hardened oil drive just for extra security, even my buddy has a 400 with nearly same setup I’m building with a standard oil drive and never had a problem but I wanted to be sure. Shining the spring is a good idea but isn’t that basically the same as changing the spring? That’s the difference between standard and high volume pumps is the spring tension. Glad you like the content and being a supporter, it’s much appreciated.

@@cbrouma8014 I’ve got one, but wanted checked correctly, machine shop said they found some light pitting in a cylinder wall and some of the pistons are 3 thousands off. Gonna have it bored 30 over and get some good sealed power/ speed pro flat top pistons for it and be good to go.

@@hammerman8919 yes sir, absolutely. Much appreciated, thanks for watching.

@@frankc1174 idk about having to but I did anyway, I always install screw in studs with guide plates on the press in studs because I have had them pull out before and it’s a pain to deal with. So I’d recommend doing it, it doesn’t cost much extra and you can still use your stock rocker arms just have to get new fulcrum and lock nuts. Good luck on your install, thanks for watching.

@@1121Tab no problem bud, glad my video helped, nice truck by the way. Thanks for watching.

@@clemke01 that’s great, I’m glad it worked for you, you’re very welcome. Thanks for watching.

@@jamescipollone7737 you can use either, it won’t hurt it, I use grease and never had an issue, it’s just preference. Thanks for the suggestion, thanks for watching.

@@AtomicSkunk347 thanks I appreciate that, I’ll have to check that out. Thanks for watching.

@@ludwig-vi6pi thanks, much appreciated! Thanks for watching.

@@johnfletcher7002 thank you, glad you liked the video, no it’s a 77 with the original 400 engine. Both of mine are live too but I think my temp gauge is just bad because I’ve replaced the sending unit twice but I haven’t messed with the oil sender yet, but I think part of my problem with the oil gauge reading low is that my engine has a lot of miles and the oil pressure is alittle low anyway, so my gauge reads normal when cold but drops once warmed up. I’d try changing your sending units if the gauges work to see if that fixes your problem. Thanks for watching.

@@davidboyle6015 thank you, much appreciated. Thanks for watching.