You install a fuse rating that's a slightly higher than your device's current draw, BUT not exceeding the original fuse rating. If you installing dash camera, it only draws less than 300mA, so you can use a 5A fuse.

5A is adequate.

Yes, as long as the water is turned off.

Take the handle off. On the front of the valve, you should see a black thing on the bottom that you can turn. That is the temperature control and is set that way from the factory for safety. So you will need to set it to the hottest setting or whatever you want to make it confortable for you

Me too

The device current draw must be less than the fuse rating. For example, a halogen 55W headlight bulb draws about 4.5A current when on. If you need to power this light bulb, you can tap into a circuit that is rated for 10A or higher. Because the 10A or higher circuit will be able to support the 4.5A load. I would not connect it to a 5A fuse circuit, because there is a high chance it will blow the fuse. So in your example, if your device truly states it can get power from a 1-10A fuse, then that device MUST be drawing less than 1A. That's why it says you can use a 1A fused circuit.

same boat here. What I noticed was multiple parts all wear down on the axle and need replacing. The gear wears down (but these can be flipped around 180 by swapping the left for the right, just remember the correct orientation, the axle shaft wears down incrementally so that the wheel/s sag inwards and then eventually lock up issues comes back (were talking less than 1mm but it makes all the difference). Also, not shown in the video (around the 5:30 mark where the end cap is removed from the height adjuster (its the same both sides), there's another plastic insert inside that wears down, this is also part of the issue because when that wears out, it's metal on metal and that's what wears the shaft (the fastest way to remove that spacer is to use something like a piece of dowel that just fits inside the hole and push it out). I digress though, once you have this issue.,the only real fix is a whole new shaft and probably all the spacers and gears, or get a new mower. Sadly the newer version of this mower has the same issues, and they appear faster. Honda have changed the design of the rear axle completely and the wheels now have seprate shafts for the wheels and gears/woodruff mech. But the same issue still happens; the inner wheel shaft wears down the axle and the wheel/s sag inward and bind to the shaft when rolling backwards. I've been greasing the inside of the wheels since it's been binding, but am now just accepting that the sahft will need replacing at least once a year (I mow several acres a week). The only thing I can think of to limit or eliminate this issue is to have sealed bearings in the wheels (but you'd still have to maintain these to stop them ceasing). smh.... I cant fault Honda in general but for something so simple, and so common, you'd think there would be a easier (cheaper) solution.

Automotive fuses are rated up to 32V DC. The circuit you are using (including the wiring) needs to be rated up to 15A current draw.

@@SimpleDIYMedia I have two 15A blower motor fuses in my AC unit. One of the fuse slots is damaged, so I was wondering if I could use a fuse tap on a functioning 15A slot and add another 15A fuse to it to supply power to the other blower motor

@@dondada1949 Since this is a high current draw device, my answer is 'no', don't fuse tap another 15A circuit on the working 15A circuit. That could overload the working 15A circuit because there could be a max of 30A current going through the working 15A circuit. Your best option is to either find another 15A unused circuit or run your own new power supply line for the new 15A circuit. Also keep in mind, besides the fuse rating, make sure the gauge of the wiring in that entire circuit can handle the current draw.

I agree entirely. My 216 has been a great mower but the poor design with the plastic bushings has made it irritating to use at times.