I've made some assumptions from your post, in particular that moisture free means very low humidity? If that's correct then no, the Ingens should be fine. It's a succulent like the Trigona you have, and can cope with that easily. They will struggle with long periods of no watering and they dislike cold temperatures. But I think Turkey is generally warm (at least by our standards here in the UK) so "cooler temperatures" in your climate shouldn't be a problem. Obviously it could be a factor, what sort of temperature is it growing in?

Is there really a thing as "too big" with houseplants, lol! Grow them and then move somewhere bigger. I like your idea!

Sounds like she's been through a lot! But they're extremely tough plants, their only real weakness is overwatering and freezing temperatures. Anything else (including what you've described) can be dealt with. I'm sure when the temperature warms up in the Spring, it will bounce back.

@ Thank you for the fast reply, I’m hoping the best for her, cause it is a sentimental gift from my grandma ☺️ and I’m really trying not to kill it 😅

You can always repot your plants at anytime of the year (just minimize your time outside in the cold, and obviously don't do it if the temperature is too cold!). However, many plants go dormant or stop growing during Winter, so the need to repot is a lot less. Unless it REALLY needs doing (say the pot has split and potting mix is falling everywhere) I'd personally just wait until a decent warm Spring day.

@@ourhouseplants Thank you very much for reply, was thinking exactly the same ! Also have personally long list of (unintentionally) killed Zenzi/Raven so...will wait!

HI. YES, IF YOU'VE NOT WATERED THEM FOR A LONG TIME, THEN YOU SHOULD. THEY'RE NOT TRUE CACTI AND NEED MORE WATER. I THINK BECAUSE OF YOUR SIGHT, IT'S BEST TO DO WHAT YOU'VE SUGGESTED ABOUT THE BOWL AND WATER THEM THAT WAY. LET THE POTTING MIX SOAK IT UP FOR 10 MINUTES AND THEN POUR ANY EXCESS STILL IN THE BOWL AWAY. THE KEY IS TO GROW THEM SOMEWHERE WARM AND IDEALLY WITH AT LEAST A FEW HOURS OF DIRECT SUN EACH DAY, THAT WILL HELP AVOID OVERWATERING MISTAKES.

This is good to know, thank you, although I'm nervous to try it!

Hi! Based on what you've said, it sounds like not enough water! If it's the lower leaves are going yellow, that's normal. But if there is no replacement growth, it sounds like a problem. If this doesn't help, you're going to have to take the plant out of the container and check the roots.

@ourhouseplants thanks

​@@ourhouseplants oh! haha, oops!

​@@ourhouseplantsor get a water meter, right?

I was in Weston the other week, they have a fab houseplant shop there. I'm a bit confused by your comment, as I'm reading as if you've put leaves into a vase of water? If that's correct, then it's possible they might propagate, but I think the success rate is low (it's never worked for me). If I've misunderstood and it's in a normal potting mix, then a normal houseplant feed would be my suggestion. But wait until Spring. In either case, it's a thumbs down from me regarding a sugar feed. The sugar can provide a little boost to flowers because there are no leaves to create their own sugars, but this isn't true for houseplants as the leaves are still present. Also when you think about a vase of flowers, with the feed they give you the water becomes dirty and full of bacteria within a week. Fine for a bunch of flowers you're going to throw out, but not what you want for a houseplant that could be within you for years to come.

I wish you good luck! Certainly not the easiest plant to propagate, but definitely possible!

Thank you, glad it helped. Good luck with your plant, I hope it grows into something magnificent over time!

Yes absolutely they can be called that.

​@@ourhouseplantsNo, he is correct. An Elk Fern has different Fronds(leaves) than the Staghorn Fern. The Staghorn fronds are more ornamental.

No, you won't be able to reattach a soft stem plant like this with masking tape. But it sounds like you're trying to propagate the upper parts of the stem, which is what I would be doing in this situation. Make sure the nodes are in proper contact with the soil and keep the potting mix damp. That's all you can do really (and cross your fingers!).

Thank you. I take the view it's just best to give the viewers what they want, lol (although I'm still figuring that out, so thanks for the feedback!). Good luck with your attempt. Water propagation with these plants don't do well for me, but if your cuttings haven't rotted after two weeks, that's a great sign!

You can totally repot them if needed. They just don't like it. Try to minimize root disturbance, so don't wash off or knock off the existing soil around the roots. When you put in the fresh mix, try not to be too rough or pack in the new potting mix too tightly. If you are harsh or accidentally do damage, some of the leaves may yellow up and go over, but don't panic too much. You didn't say which one you have, the all green variety is more fussy than the variegated version in my experience. Good luck! Hope it all goes well.

Just a size or two bigger than the current container is plenty, they're fairly happy to be quite snug. You just need a little extra space around the edges, so new leaves can come up.

They're surprisingly tough and unlikely to break. But whenever I move mine, I know THAT feeling very well! lol. You could trim them down as you've suggested, or provide support (sticks or wrap string around the outer branches to keep them together and prevent excessive wobbling).

@ thanks I appreciate the advice. Yes I always feel like it might break and I don’t want to cause any damage

Definitely a dye.

I agree with @notbluefox, saying it's some kind of dye. The natural green in the leaves might come off a little if rubbed hard, but not to the level you're describing. It's ridiculous any grower would spray them in the first place as the leaves should be, well, green! I can't comment on the toxic question you've asked. You're better off asking the store you brought it from.

Remember to Google things I have no idea but Google's never fails my mother always had one when we were growing up and there was a special solution that she would buy from a nursery like a wash

@@ourhouseplants So I emailed the support team of that nursery that sold that plant. They said the dye is a food dye and its non toxic. They d it because evergreens get less green in winter. So should be fine. Thank you

That's amazing it's done so well with such low light. They're tough plants for sure.

Glad I could share my experiences. I'd like to mount one (or a few) as a living wall, might look into it next year. If you have any tips or progress to report on, drop me a line if you remember!

In warmer countries, it can be both. But in Sweden it will be too cold to have it growing outside other than during your summer months. You can follow the light and water instructions I've talked about in my video, or have a read of my article linked in the description for a more detailed guide.

Thanks for the comment. This is a vining plant with a "face" , meaning you don't need to rotate it as the leaves will essentially face in the same direction no matter what.

It sounds like you're doing something right to grow that many leaves, well done. I can't answer your first question with accuracy, exactly as you've written, the leaves gradually get larger and larger, if all goes well each new leaf starts to become more and more adult looking, but there isn't a sudden moment when it suddenly switched from baby-form to adult. At least with my plant. Your second question - I just ran into my bedroom to count and there are TWO stems twined together. Mine came like that, but when you're ready, you could try and propagate your existing plant and start up a second stem too if you want a more bushy look.

@@ourhouseplants Thank you! I'll definitely propagate mine and put mosre stems in the pot just like your fantastic plant! ... so I try to be patient and wait till a few mature leaves appear before propagation. Luckily it has already started to grow some roots into the mosspole. Thanks for your video and kind answer as well!

I don't know for certain, but I suspect it's a genetic potential vs light received situation. Snake Plants are well known to have different lengths and widths in their leaves, so what you're describing is still within the realms of "normal", however as a grower, I can't be certain how to influence this. If you do find out, please do swing by and let me know.

Yessss! That's what I love to hear. Well done.

Thank you! Glad you could see the workings behind filming this. It was one of my first ones, certainly more time-consuming than I expected, lol.

Check for pests first. If it's all clear, I'd consider leaving the leaves alone until they go completely yellow before removing them, as it sounds like a possible slight overwatering issue. I'm limited without a photo, though. You can post one in the comments on my website article (link in description), or send me one. Contact details at the bottom of every page on my website too.

Well... I can honestly say that's a new one on me! I've had ants setting up home in the potting mix on some of my outdoor plants (I just left them alone as they didn't appear to do it any harm), but inside... I can see why that could be a problem. Are you certain it's a nest inside the mix or just a few strays? If it's a nest and you can't have your plant outdoors right now, then I think a repot and carefully discarding the nest is the way to go.

Thank you! This was one of my very first KZbin videos and I was so so nervous. Hopefully I sound a bit more confident in my newer stuff.

Yikes. They can deal with quite warm temperatures, hopefully the heat treatment has either just shocked your plant or the damage is confined just to the top sections. Make sure you give it a good drink and then all you can do is wait it out and see how it recovers / responds.

It does flower yes. And no I don't think it's edible (I wrote a detailed care guide for it on my website if you want to learn more / see photos. Link in the description.)

Yes absolutely! Bet they'll look fantastic in a few years. All you need to do is make sure they have root space and stability to prevent them tipping over.

You can try with just the sticks as long as you have a node along it. However, even then it may not work. But it sounds like you have nothing to lose!

Yellowing tends to be caused by over or underwatering, but it could also be from too much light (if it's getting too much direct sun). The final usual cause is Thrips (pest). Do you or your friend usually struggle with Philodendrons? Sometimes a species of plant just doesn't like our homes.

@@ourhouseplants Where to begin? I bought a Philodendron McColley's Finale in January of 2003, & it grew like crazy by the south window in my study, so much that I moved it into a larger pot. I loved it! Then the new leaves began to wither & drop off before they even unfurled. 13 months ago, I bought beautiful Monstera deliciosa in a 10" pot crammed full of stems. It thrived in my south-facing picture window until summer, when the edges of the leaves turned brown. Finally, I took it outside & cut most of the leaves off; now it is back indoors struggling. I bought a Philodendron Shangri-la 3-4 years ago. After a while in a south-facing window, the leaves all turned yellow & died. As a last resort, in spring, I moved it outside into my plastic greenhouse, which receives even more light & heat. It resurrected, so I moved it back into the house in the fall. Soon, the leaves turned yellow again & died. I put it back into the greenhouse in late summer, & it resurrected again! Back inside, it has several perfectly green leaves again, for now. My Philodendron Congo Rojo has done well for about 3 years growing big in the south picture window, but it produces only a few leaves a year. The leaves on my Philodendron White Knight & Pink Princess are suffering burns. Philodendron Imperial Majesty had grown some during several years. Philodendron Ring of Fire had a leaf or two wither & drop off, but it seems stable for now. Philodendron "Moonlight" was very small when I received it by mail, but it is healthy & growing slowly so far in my south-facing kitchen window with somewhat filtered light. My $40 Philodendron monstera deliciosa Thai Constellation has burns around its leaves, except for a furled new one.

They can grow in loads of different soil types. They do tend to like being quite snug and tight, so my go to is a heavyish mix. I tried free draining once but everything rocks around too much.

Fingers crossed for you. It sounds like a decent plan, and in reality there isn't a great deal more you can do. Let me know how you get on!

It does yes!!! I hope you enjoy growing it.

Sounds like it's pretty happy. "Arms" or side shoots usually happen when the plant has good light levels. It sounds natural, so I'd leave it alone. But if you're not a fan, when it's a bit bigger you could remove it and try to propagate a new plant.

Maybe. But yellowing leaves are more likely to be a sign of overwatering. It could also be adjusting to its new home, or if it's just a single leaf going yellow, could be completely natural and nothing to worry about. :-)