@DarkZeva This is a 2.7 liter, 12 valve SOHC in line six. 8.5:1 compression ratio. Its an M20B27 block with an M20B25 top end. This compressor will make up to 1.5 bar and can supply enough air mass to produce 350 wheel horsepower. Should be a good fit for your engine. Nissan used these on the SR20 which is pretty close to what you've got. You can also look at the GT2860R which has larger turbine options, or the GT2781R which has a larger compressor too.

@@TurbodanNM Thanks for fast response. Glad to hear that, Ill probably buy one then. Even GT2560R is a little bit to big for my setup but could not go any smaller because of T3 flange and lack of space for an adapter to T25 flange. Was afraid that GT2560R will have big lag. M20B27 has higher displacement, and slightly lower compression ratio (mine is 8.8:1), it's also SOHC but 16 valve. Should have full boost at about 2500rpm and positive pressure from about 2000rpm which is fine for me

@DarkZeva you may have a problem with the flange, the GT2560R uses a T25 turbine inlet. Everything else would probably be a great fit.

@DarkZeva if you are stuck with a T3 I would look for a T3 60 trim off of an old Ford 2.3. The XR4Ti had them, and I think depending on which tranmission was equipped they used either a .48 or .63 A/R turbine. Can't remember what had which, but if you can find a .63 that's what you want. These are available cheap and can be rebuilt easily.

@@TurbodanNM Actually there is a brand that makes T3 GT2560. Mamba turbo. Never heared of them before but after watching some reviews, people are happy with them. They are not cheap either so i think build quality is fine

@brandenmartin318 it did. Wasn't a total transformation, though. Still s pokey trail bike. A better place to start would be correcting their squish and bumping the compression up.

@ballockybill2277 the airbox was removed long ago. Since this is a 350 frame with a 400 motor I would probably have to make something anyway. The carbs are higher up on the 400 cylinders so I would have problems even with the 350 airbox that fits the chassis.

@@ksneth hell yeah

@ksneth glad to hear it. I never did any testing with the 350 but I would try a 169-O4. Maybe a 169-P0.

​@@TurbodanNMI ordered a 169-P0 along with that 5DP7 needle. Here's to hoping 🤞. It's hard to find jetting advice\specs for stock pipes. Thanks again. I'd love to see more about how you cleaned up those ports

@ksneth i might make a video on that. Short answer: modified dremel right angle tool with a shortened carbide bit. Not pretty but it worked for my R5 cylinders and these 400 jugs too.

@ksneth I found a few more tricks, if your 350 requires them. It may not. First thing to try would be the RD400 reeds, specifically the upper petal. The 400 uses a slightly thicker top reed. I tried using the thin reeds top and bottom, which is the stock 350 setup, and it created a problem in the 4000-4500 RPM range. I alleviate this, I cut the shroud around the top end of the 169 type needle jet down to 5.9mm. This helped but the rich condition just past 4k was still present. Today I reinstalled the stock RD400 top reed and it once again revs out cleanly at part throttle. The cut down needle jets remained, which reduce the overlap between the needle and pilot circuit at low throttle. This is good as it helps the circuits operate more independently. I was able to lean out the airscrew and richen the clip position. The 169 series needle jets bring the pilot and airscrew into play to a greater extent than the stock 175 needle jets. I have been trying to optimize fueling at idle as well as low throttle cruising, and for me, cutting down the shroud on the needle jet seems to have done the trick.

I usually push a screwdriver between the snap ring and the body of the reservoir. These are surprisingly low tension rings so they can be displaced pretty easily.

I'll have to upload a new video. I had a custom pipe made and it does sound awesome. Makes a bit more power too.

I'm using a Keihin PWK on this motor, that carb came on a bunch of more modern bikes. I was using this same carb on the 360 motor too. The stock 360 carb isn't even big enough for that motor, both the 360 and the 500 work well with a 38mm. The ignition is a kit from Rex's speed shop in the UK, originally designed for the 74 360. Everything fit right up to the 500, even the dt360a flywheel.

The 250 runs very well compared to other 250cc dual sport two strokes of the time. Hope you enjoy it tremendously.

In stock form they certainly do. At least the SC had some power though. When this 74 DT was stock it would detonate almost all the time, making a gutless 22 hp in the process. They have a reputation for holing pistons.

Good Job. You should be proud.

@@toddhazzard1562 thanks. The original 360 motor just hit 15000 miles, still running great. This one was a fresh build from spare parts. No idea where they have been or what they have been through but everything looked good and it went together with fresh bearings and seals.

I use a mountain bike shock pump. If all you have is a compressor and standard air chuck that will work well enough. It won't last as long as a full pressure charge though.

Yessir, still got that pipe. I haven't confirmed exactly what interchanges with these but I am pretty sure the later IT/MX/DT 400 motors will bolt right in as well. I may never run out of things to try with this one.

@@TurbodanNM very cool sir! I just now see your article on yamduro forum, I'll have to check it out.

This was a 2004. I like the 85, those are cool. They don't make as much power as the later bikes though.

@@TurbodanNM yep, still a blast on the trails though

To disassemble the reservoir you push the end cap into the shock body and remove the snap ring that retains it. If your shock is as dead as mine was there will be very little pressure and once the cap breaks free it will push in without much difficulty.

They run pretty well compared to a lot of the other 250 enduros of the era. Close to some of the 360's.

120 should be alright, just check it once in a while and keep it topped off. Reservoir pressure determines the threshold of cavitation, based on the rate the piston moves through the fluid in the shock body. These shocks see pretty high velocity since Honda didn't use linkage but I bet they work pretty well down to about 60 or 70 psi. Once you get below whatever minimum pressure is, there won't be enough pressure to counteract the pressure generated by the valving and oil will begin to push into the reservoir rather than go through the valving.

@@TurbodanNM ok cool thanks for the explanation

If it's an all metal stem it will be suitable. A rubber stem will not hold the required pressure. 150 psi would blow that puppy right out. Look for a high pressure, bolt in valve stem and seal it in with something like JB Weld.

I will eventually modify a spring compressor to get the rest of the shock apart. I'm sure the piston setup is a lot like any other shock. It's anybodys guess on how these are built at the factory. Definitely unconventional. I've had two apart, this one and the one that's on the bike. Both had the bladder oriented with the oil inside and the air on the outside.

@@TurbodanNM I made a simple spring compressor and I would be interested to compare to what you came up with. It would be fun to try modifying the reservoir setup with most of the parts that exist. It wouldn't be crazy to switch the bladder to hold the nitrogen/air.

LOL 145mph ? i hope you meanth kph lmfao

Is yours leaking? I haven't gotten into the main body yet. My 919 has been great since I got the reservoir recharged, haven't needed to mess with it since. Maybe this summer I'll do part 2.

No brother in my shock dont have refill option

@@prabhadesignscustomautomot1450 none of these do. I installed a schrader valve in the reservoir end cap to allow the reservoir to be charged. Been working as well as it did new.

Sold years ago. I put a bunch of hours on it and it was still kicking ass when I sold it. Great bikes.

@@TurbodanNM thanks. I've had two stroke mopeds and they are fine being held open. Was looking for a quick bike to do some door dash on that isn't heavy.