Going with the S&b

Did you do anything extra with the connecting after using the arp bolts. Was there an issue with the arp bolts over tightening the rods and egg shaping them?

Looking to lighten the load on the right side engine bank. I have HPt. how to disable ex recirc w/ HPt?

Great video! Thank you!

It looks like you did everything really good. I worked in a brake shop for a spell and was taught by the mechanics to repack all tapered roller bearings even if they run in oil so they won't get damaged before the oil can get to them after hub work. I learned a lot by watching this video and found it very informative. I wasn't looking for holes to pick in what you were doing and will likely change my seal asap in the fastest way possible skipping the greasing part etc.

Part numbers please

Could you have put in the back ARP stud with a zip tie on the driver side before lowering in the head so you wouldn't have to jack up the engine? Similar to how you did it on the passenger side?

Dude thank you so much your still helping us poor 6.0 owners

You are a beast bro!

a blown head gasket is a major job, especially on new foreign cars, that are loaded with so many complicated features, that they will not last for decades, like the cars that transitioned from carburetors to fuel injection in the late 90's to 2000's which are simple and reliable and will last decades, after 2010 to about 2015 they started complicating cars with complex features that will doom the car to unreliability and the scrap heap before a couple of decades of use, but the early 90's to 2000's cars are simple, reliable and will and do last, you still see heaps of hyundia getz on the road here in australia, i have one, cheap to run, cheap to fix, not much to go wrong besides a fuel pump which will eventually fail as they all have a use by date, just like a turbo only has so many hours of life expectancy, an electronic fuel pump will eventually die, and that's all that has gone out on my getz, i plan to change the alternator soon so i dont get a rude surprise one day, if i change it i will be right for 20 years at least. modern cars will never last 2 decades without spending serious money keeping them repaired, unlike my hyundai gets that has only needed a new fuel pump besides the usual brakes, plugs and timing belt air filter and stuff, new cars are built so flimsy and complicated that they will be piles of trash after 20 years and you wont see many on the road, unlike hyundia getz that are getting into the double decades of age, you still see plenty driving around because they are simple, cheap to run, cheap to fix and there is not much to go wrong with them, besides consumables like plugs, filters, fuel pump eventually, besides that they dont skip a beat. only a fool or a man with a lot of money and no brains, buys a modern BMW, they are complicated, delicate, poorly built, unreliable pieces of trash that will always cost a fortune to fix when they certainly will breakdown or develop problems, parts cost a fortune, repair shops for them charge triple the average, if you want to waste money on german, get a mercedes, which are only slightly better, but their service centers will rob you, as they wont give anyone else but there service centers the error codes, so if you see your mechanic and his automotive scanner reads an error code, he wont know what it means so cant work on the car, mercedes refuses to reveal the car computer scanner codes, that indicate whats wrong with the car, so if the mechanic cannot know what error codes indicate he cannoit repair a mercedes, thats how they stiff you, the mercedes dealer or repair center will charge you 5 or more times the average for repairs, and 4 times the price for parts, even a regular oil change is $1000, for $30 of engine oil, and the newest cars are computer locked to only use proprietary automotive scanners, another repair shops scanners will give system errors and wont be able to talk to the car computer at all. along with car makers engineering there cars to last only as long as he warranty, like using plastic parts, like where the radiator hose hooks up to the engine, it plugs into a plastic housing that holds the thermostat, like in mini's, these are common failure points, but the point is car makers use these plastic parts because they will last the warranty, not a lifetime, they are all incorporating many cheap plastic parts only rated to last a little past the warranty. the thermostat housing that bolted to the engine was a part that would last a lifetime, it was metal, now car makers are all engineering cars with parts that are rated to last a little past the end of the manufacturers factory warranty and no more, as it is cheaper to buy a plastic thermostat housing that will certainly fail with the constant heat and cool down cycles, the plastic will disintegrate eventually, so a part that almost never failed, will need constant replacing every 5 to 7 years or earlier, as they have been know to fail while still under warranty. the point is car makers all copy each other, if one maker starts engineering there cars to only last a little past the factory warranty, they all start using plastic parts and engineering until warranty, they all copy each other, one comes out with a start engine switch, within 2 years they all follow suit and abandon keys for fobs and start engine switch's, who knows who first came out with it, but if mercedes comes out with something, they will be copied, imagine a decade later these cars have problems starting in the cold and the start cycle is too short to start them ??? not to mention the extremely complicated electronics, like the seat switch that failed on a car, so the car thought nobody was sitting in the drivers seat, so it maintained the electronic park brake on, so the owner could not drive the car as the brakes were locked on, the only way to release them is to sit in the drivers seat on a switch that tells the computer the driver is seated, but if the switch fails, there is no way to tell the cars computer your in the drivers seat, so the safety feature will keep the electronic park brake jammed on, preventing driving the car, my girlfriends car has a start switch, there is no way to sit in the car with the radio on, like with a key there's a accessory position where basic function, radio, lighter and so on work, in this car you either start the car, or have 2 minutes of radio time before it switches off, there is no switch, setting or button to be able to sit in the car with the radio on and engine off, how stupid. with all this complicated elctronics, engineered to only last a little after the warranty expires philosophy, plastic parts and poor quality cheap builds these days, modern cars will not be on the road within two decades, they will all be on the scrap heap, when i drive my 2007 hyundai getz around i notice all the other hyundai getz still on the road, and there are plenty of them around because they were built in the sweet spot after carburates, simple fuel injected cars of the late 90's to early 2000's, these cars are simple fuel injected cars that are simple and will last, you still see many of them on the road, you will not see a 2020's car in 2040's, they will all be long gone to the scrap heap, i bet i will still be coasting along in my hyundai getz in 2030 ???

❤

muy buena clase👍

I bought a Motorcraft filter FL-2016 for my 2006 6.0L F250 yesterday and guess what - it wouldn't work. I wonder how many fake Motorcraft filters are out there? I have had more luck with the after market filters than Motorcraft? I just don't get it.

Great Video, I'm pulling my can as we speak. Thank you for showing me what I missed. Also, what is that step you have on the front bumper?

K

But now I wanna take my 6.0 apart

Battery still hooked up. No.

So I'm doing that exact set up pretty much but I'm installing an air to air oil cooler only no extra filter I want to eliminate the factory oil cooler bypass so that it doesn't work at all and I'm thinking about just using an aluminum extension or spacers to keep the drain from being able to open I think the oil cooler bypass stuck in the open position already or perhaps it's missing 😂 any reason why adding the oil cooler from a billet filter cap 1/8npt-10an to 30 row oil cooler and back to the oil cap would be a problem assuming it retains its correct oil pressure via check valves and a pressure a regulator if you did increase the surface area by a huge amount but didn't eliminate the oil cooler can the oil pump keep up ? Is it safe to force the drain in the filter housing to stay closed woil my truck run if it was partially open?

Please, could anyone tell me in what country does Xotic (currently) manufacture the Ford, 6.0L head studs? Also, I just priced the ARP brand head stud for my (2006) 6.0L, and a set was $522.00 (outrageous, IMO), and the Xotic brand is $278.00.

Very good video. Love the detail of the dismantle. Great job.

So buy the race tune and know how to drive a diesel. Thanks for the explanation.

I know this was done 7 years ago but, does it work, because I'm thinking of doing it

I have a 2003 6.0 with no injector clatter and no sync but if I unplug the ficm plu closest to the front of the truck and plug it back in I will get injector clatter soon as I plug it in any thoughts?

My pin fory oil rail inside my engine it wouldn't let me send a picture

So let me just say that your videos are very very helpful and I watch them all the time pull in and seals....I believe something is missing

Installed some Xotic studs on my build a year ago with no issues.

Which way is harder pulling cab or this way? Which way takes more time?

Great video thanks. That black piece with the spring is missing on mine and I'm having a problem loosing oil pressure and the truck kills when hot. Could that be my issue? What is that piece called? Thanks for any help

Very well done vid man. Don't think alot of guys know how to do this level of work on Excursions anymore. You handled it like a BOSS! Lets face it, Excursions are awsome but are also dinosaurs. I have a 2001 Excrsn Limited 6.8L V10 and i love it. But since Ford stopped makin'em in 2005, well they're becoming a thing of the past. But those who like'em are quite loyal to them. Thanks again man. You got serious talent.👍

Is it normal when you start your truck and it showing 32 or 30 bolts from the Feom and then after 20 minutes 10 minutes driving go up to 47 boats 47.5

Are you sure it isn't a push rod or valve issue

When doing the head gasket is it a must to have the heads machined or is it up to me

Thank you for this video. I noticed my coolant is pumping out of the degas bottle only while under a load pulling my boat (I've replaced the degas bottle and cap, truck already has BPD egr and oil cooler) I was just quoted about $8200 to have this job done with ARP studs and new heads. Think I am going to end up doing it myself at that price. They were pretty adamant on replacing the heads while they are in there too, said its like a 50% chance that they would have to do the job again if I didn't just get new ones...

Was curios how much work this would be... Thought about pulling the cab to work on chassis rust and stuff but it looks like the cab is staying on for that work until I have a better reason to pull the cab... THANK YOU SO MUCH for this highly educational video!!!

Excellent jop amigo 🎉🎉🎉🎉

Do you have a parts lift for an 06 6.0 head job. Getting ready to do mine.

Not trying to be a critic, just trying to learn

What year of rocker box did you use on that 20mm head? Looks like a later model rocker box which have the same size dowels to fit the 20mm head?

We're you located what city

This is the stupidest 💩 I've ever seen. You CANNOT get a good full swing when torquing the head bolts!!! Stupid people like you are the reason 6.0s get a bad rap

What's the link 😞

I've watched all of your videos and am about ready to install my new Kill Devil Diesel o ring heads and I can find any videos of any actually showing the cab on head installation. I very worried about screwing up the head gasket during install. Is there and tips or videos?

I have 06 6.0 with no power to I sector 5. All others will buzz, when wires are switched with 5 and 7 the wires to 7 will buzz injector 5 but not vice versa.

I'm dealing with a led light issue right now. In a 99 civic ex. Both bulbs work high and low. But once both is plugged up the driver side will not go to high beam weird. But if you unplug the pass side it will go to high beams

I've been following all of your videos and thank you for making them. I have a question, I'm installing new KDD o ring heads, high flow oil cooler, ARP studs, new gliw plugs and harnesses, KC turbo, Hpop gasket kit, new gaskets and o rings on everything else. I think I'll also get remand injectors also. Is there anything else that i should do? I'm told 6.4 pushrods but I'm not sure.

Thank you for the information brother, blessings.

16 minutes into the video and I’m like screw that

But we have to have a tuner to delete problems with them.

How are they holding up?

Thanks for the great content. Very helpful. I try to post videos of all my powerstroke work too