Will it work on a roll up door with no wire tention connected

Excellent explanation and video. Simple. Informative.

Gloves that great stuff takes a long time to wear off

I wouldn't "air seal" it. In my opinion it's better to leave 1/2 inch gap on top and bottom and also don't bother with spray foam at all. Well, spray foam all the cuts through the drywall is a good idea, like that power outlet. But your insulation layers outward from the drywall should "breathe"

any opinions on which type of foam board to use? XPS, EPS, polyiso, or NGX?

a 1/2 inch from each side = 1 inch off, there are four sides! but i see you mean just a half inch from 2 sides top and a side to make your 1/4 inch gap all around.

i dont see horizontal wood at the end of my rafters i just see dark holes with insulation stuffed in them

How has this performed since installing? Looking to do something similar to a few knee walls

Whats the best way to attach the fiberglass batt insulation onto the foam boards?

how do they dry when they get moisture?

I would love to install rockwool comfortboard on my knee wall but I got a devils triangle (osb wall, fiberglass batts in floor,rafters)and can not get there. Any ideas?

I simply ask my insurance company what is covered before buying materials. They might deny your claim especially if it's a DIY. The air bubbles inside expanded polystyrene board stop heat transfer but can accumulate moisture making it ineffective. Any type of the foam crap will melt and drip fire. I just pay the high utilities and let my house breathe. Better than wasting your time and money creating your own mold problem!

In cold environments none of alternatives using fiberglass or foam board or spray foam are ideal. Moisture will travel through the wood joists (or the inevitable holes and gaps missed) and deposit on the cold surfaces of the rim joist. Now that the water is trapped, it begins to rot the wood. Ever wonder why it's impossible to keep paint on the exterior surfaces of wood windows? It's the same process .... moisture transits through the wood from inside the home and deposits between the wood and the paint on the exterior .... and voila .... the paint peels!! The only way to stop rim joist damage is to stop the rim joist from getting cold in the first place. This is done by insulating the "exterior" wall, rim joist and concrete foundation from the outside to keep it warm so moisture cannot get deposited on it from the inside. It took me years of research and thousands $$ in damage to figure this out and finally get control of the situation :)

I pulled the batt insulation away from the rim joist to locate a huge snake and the rim joist were covered with ice. So I left the insulation out of this area so the board could breathe.

what a pain in the ass this is

THANK YOU

Question: In the video at the end you see the end joist with caulking but no foam board. Is that right or should you air seal the end joist as well? One of my end joists is damn near impossible to access because of the foundation and an adjoining joist are like 2 inches apart. Previous homeowner stuffed a bunch of fiberglass up there which isn’t doing much for air seal. Any thoughts?

Don't forget to turn the water heater pilot light off the flammable gasses are no joke unfortunately the best way to clean uncured foam off you is flammable liquids like gas or acetone ect.

Caulking is a waste of time and not particularly suitable to confined spaces. I you spay with closed cell foam properly it will seal well. If you want to go an additional step use Henry Stop Leak spray.

Nicely explaining this method. I would lean towards a closed cell spray foam kit. Much fewer steps and you’ll be guaranteed to not have any leaks.

If you have an unfinished basement (as I do), why is this necessary?

Have you noticed a difference since doing this?

Thanks for the great info. Great job. Just one safety suggestion. Cutting foam like that with a miter saw can cast thousands of micro particles in the air that you breathe. You may want to wear a mask (didn’t look like I saw one, I could’ve missed it). Can’t be good for you.

Isn't the exposed foam board a fire hazard?

Dont use the styro and fiberglass in the basements. Its too much of a fire hazard and the fumes that styro gives off. Us Roxul instead. Roxul is flame resistant to the melting point of Steel and water resistant. Using Roxul will give you a lot more time to escape a fire situation than fiberglass /styro.. Cut it a 1/4 or 1/2 more than you need and tuck it in. Once in it will not fall out.

On a different point, the access holes for your services should not be where they are, they should be drilled on the central axis of the joints. By locating them as is, the joists loading capacity will be reduced.

i have been trying different ways of doing this on my house but I did not want to leave foamboard exposed because of fire rules saying it can't be exposed to living space so smake doesn't poison people if it catches fire.

Good job, well done

Is it okay when I put r13 rolls in between floor frame seal with 1/4 inch plywood ?i have dirt crawlspace. ?

Is 35 year old caulk ok?

The foam board needs drywall in front to meet code for fireproofing.

Poor video. Six minutes of the guy’s back.

Super helpful to motivate me to get on this.

I was told these pink owens corning foam boards are combustible and cannot be left exposed in most crawl space applications

never and i repeat NEVER have standard fiberglass batts in the rim joist cavities. If those cold condensating rim joists have any warm air meeting them in extremely cold months, it's a disastrous condensation/mold/mildew issue and learning that from experience with a new home build. from doing this project entirely myself, i would strongly recommend cutting foamular pieces, angling all edges (so foam expands better on all corners, gluing the foamular to rim joist FIRST with loctite PL 300 adhesive and once dried go back and foam the edges to seal it out. The foam board doesn't always rest tight against rim joist when foaming the edges i found they would sometimes pop out and not sit flush. Gluing first is definitely the way to go.

I just had fiberglass batt in the rim joist cavities. Pulled it out and put in foam board and spray foam to seal (like you showed), then put the fiberglass back in... no harm and adds just a bit more R-value. My suggestion for even better performance, especially in a crawl space or unheated basement... staple and seal "double-bubble" (Reflectix) insulation sheet to the bottoms of the floor joists and seal those joist cavities across the entire crawl space or basement. Greatly helps keep the floors warmer. Cheap and very easy to install.

yeah.........this looks wrong based on all the other videos i've seen Good luck with moisture.

Given all that effort probably better off just spray foaming the whole thing

Here in 🇨🇦, you just need to pony up and get the job done right, spray foam!!! Specifically, closed cell spray foam... completely seals everything, waterproof so it's a vapor barrier, adds structural rigidity and is an r7 per inch!!! It's biggest asset being how well it blocks air leakage!! If interested, check a dude named spray Jones from Saskatchewan canada, ge has a wicked pages with a stupid amount of information!! Hours upon hours of information comparing myths with facts back by data from educated sources along with his experience! Super amazing, even goes to say r values should be shot out the window when it comes to closed cell spray foam as your not getting a return after a certain amount of inches(here in canada were an r21 in walls)... that being 2inch at something like 86% efficiency while 3inches will only give you 88% and 4 90%!! Just does make sense to pay more for a few percent... dudes very, and I mean very educated on thus subject, probably one of the best in the industry from what I've seen!!! If not the best, no ones pulling the wool over this dudes eyes, that's for use!!

I use a similar method to air seal and insulate rim joists here in Maine. However, I prefer mineral/rock wool over fiberglass. It has a higher R value per inch, is denser so it is easier to cut and stays in place better than fiberglass, it is hydrophobic, and it is non combustible so it does not have to be covered in a finished basement.

what about the end joists that run perpendicular to these?

My basement has no sill plate (probably 100 years old. All the wood sits directly on the blocks. Three sides are below grade and one above grade. How do I insulate that?

What do you do in places where there are obstructions, such as water pipes?

I have a brick exterior, should I still install/seal insulation board in my rim joist?

Umm, you have kraft faced fiberglass insulation against the interior wall. In this case the vapor barrier(kraft paper) is as it should be; facing the heat source. But when you add foam based insulation to the outside of the insulation, you're probably adding another vapor barrier. This is known as a vapor barrier sandwich and any moisture that gets in the wall can't easily get out, leading to declining performance of the fiberglass and mold/mildew problems. Not all foamboard is a vapor barrier, in particular in thinner sheets. Polyiso is a vapor retarder in most typical selections. But 2" of XPS is a vapor barrier by contrast. I'd suggest you check the ratings of your foamboard which is usually printed on the board. If your thickness/foam type is a vapor retarder, you might be OK. If it's a vapor barrier you'll have wall problems, all the more so since you thoroughly foamed the seams. The foil placing towards the interior wall further prevents moisture transmission. One other issue is leaving foamboard exposed. That's against all US building codes as it will aggressively burn with toxic fumes. This will shorten the time you and your family have to escape. You might think I'll take the chance, but if your house burns the insurance company could deny payment because you violated building code. And if people are hurt there are other problems with law enforcement. And this video is further proof! In this scenario I have had good luck using rockwool comfortboard as a secondary layer. It's essentially fireproof, allows moisture movement and is a great sound barrier. Good luck.

You need to use 4" foam boards or 2 time 2", home depot has 2" foam that is R13 so 4" gives R26, code is I think R30. Cut foam 3/4 less than rim joists size and attach transparent flexible plastic tube to foam gun so you can easly access everywhere... When you have 3/4 space you make 5/8 from each side so foam can go all the way towarst wood, this way you dont let air movements in front of the foam and also you dont need caulk.

Mineral wool would have been a lot better on top of the foam. It is more fireproof, more inert, and especially a lot better for you in a fire since it will protect the foam from fire better than fiberglass. Highly recommend redoing the video to add mineral wool in addition to what you have already.

It would have been nice to know the temperature outside and inside before the foam and the temperature outside and inside after the foam. Nice job.

When using spray foam your supposed to spray a little water on the surface your foaming, then one time over the foam again. Almost noone knows or does this. And also make sure the wood have no way to get wet from the outside, since now it will loose its ability to dry on its own.

i thought spray foam was hazardeous?