That’s awesome to hear you enjoyed the soap wash. :-) The soap may not have the capillary action around small subtle details and won’t blend as well. But it’s fun to experiment with as a weathering/wash paint that’s homemade.

It only takes a few minutes for to dry. You can manipulate the wash as it’s drying to help blend it.

I typically don’t, as I use a relatively small amount of paint when painting the first layers. I’d recommend buying/creating a wet palette or purchase a paint retarder to help slow down the drying time.

@@StarWarsJay Not to my knowledge no.

@ they’d need to be atom sized haha. Great job btw.

@@marcinstaszak4813 just water

I typically use brush sizes 1, 3, and 4 from Royal and Land nickel for example.

@Modkits131 I appreciate your reply thank you

I personally don’t seal it with a matte varnish as it would ruin the wet effects and satin camouflage paint. Just my preference.

@@gbresaleking Yup same here, cost and space being the issue. But I do love 1/72 and 1/144 models it fits it so well.

Yeah I’m sorry man, life’s been busy lately but I do plan on coming back. I have still been making models behind closed doors though.

@@Modkits131 when do you think your coming back?

Hopefully near or by the end of this year.

@@Modkits131 what tanks have ya built?

@@Modkits131 what models have ya built? :)

@@Ruairí-n7b That’s just my previous profile pic that I used for insta and KZbin.

I wouldn’t know to be honest with you.

@@Modkits131 No problem, still, excellent models!

I do, but not as thin as when I’m applying the first layer of base paint. It has to be semi-thick in order to be precise. Also be sure to remove excess paint on the brush before adding chips/scratches.

Just soap and water from the faucet. You can use acrylic thinners to achieve a fluid level for large flat surfaces or detailed areas. Especially a capillary action effect.

@@Modkits131 cool! Thank you!

Yes! Tamiya’s (X-22 Clear) is a lacquer based/acrylic varnish. It is meant for sealing in models for a glossy finish or can be used for weathering to replicate fresh mud effects. Modelers also spray a gloss varnish on their finished paint job before applying decals. Next they seal the decals with another layer to protect it. Finally using a soft sandpaper to remove the decal film and matting down the decal.

@@Modkits131 thank you mate, So it is not mixed with other paints for deep appearence, i mean, if I mix x-22 with other paints will it give them deeper appearence? it is used just on surface for extra protective and varnishing layer. Am I correct?

@@giorginakashidze8797 Yeah you can use it to enrich your colors and keep saturation. Or use it as a texture for terrain.

@@Modkits131 thanks bro

@@mikebalis9963 You can use a protective varnish of any matte/satin/gloss of your choice. But for this case in the video, I didn’t use a varnish to protect it.

@@Modkits131 do you think the soapy water you mixed in the acrylic wash made the difference?

With subtle applications and layering the soapy wash helps me have control over the surface. But I overdid the weathering in the end personally. It looked way better in the beginning. But enamels and oils are better for full control weathering as you can remove the unwanted excess or to build up gradually.

It usually comes in experience with the colors, see what mixes well with lights and darks. Of course it helps to look at a color wheel or to purchase a pre made mix. But it’s fun to experiment and see how your results appear in the end. Examples: Black/Yellow = Olive Drab Green/Red = Brown Red/Yellow = Orange

@@Modkits131 thank you🥰

Nah Im dead, jk I do plan on returning.