I'd try some different bars. These were terrible ergonomically. But this is how you change them.

It is, but it is the full length version. I have the shorter one too. But this one works with a full length seat.

@@OakInch I've been looking at it. How do you like the taillight srip it came with? Any cons?

@@Torque_Lewith The led strip that came with the kit seemed like it was too short to get to the battery and kind of cheap. I bought a different light strip for the rear. They have bunches on Amazon. I think I paid 15 to get a good one. But I also have cheap ones that work fine from when I was experimenting with different hoops. I like the strips in general. No issues with brightness or LEDs failing. This was three years ago.

Thanks! It probably would have been easier to work on the engine after removing it. That was my first time. I couldn't find any good videos on how to do this. So I just got a manual, made a plan, and went to work. At least I proved it can be done! Haha.

First battery went dead over the winter. I took it off the maintenance charger for a month because the charger was acting weird. That was the end of it. I bought another one of the same battery and a different charger brand. I have not tried to charge the one that went dead with the new charger yet. I think it is probably not going to charge. I can't give it a gold star of approval at this point. I'll see how the second one holds up and try to charge the first one. Not sure if the charger was the problem or the battery. Based on my experience so far, maybe try a different brand of lithium battery.

@@OakInch thanks for the update! Really helps with decision making.

Thanks!

The top speed is really determined by the rev limiter and gearing more than the engine. 115 is the fastest it has been. I have never just flat out tested it. I think it would not do more than 120.

Thanks!

I am not sure how the 270 angle torque would work without first doing the normal torque. There would not be a starting point, or you would have bolts that only have 3/4 of turn total. Revelry Racing uses both on their video build. It is pretty standard on vehicles to do normal torque and then angle torque for head bolts. I didn't think the manual was unclear. I double checked it just now. I think the manual is probably correct.

@@OakInch Yes - that's a logical point. Better get one of those angle torque meters then!

I appreciate the feedback! Good luck with your mods!

The seat is actually from India. It is the MK Designs India cafe racer seat. You can order it on their website. They sell several seats. This is the one with no hard cover shroud. It is the best looking one in my opinion. I have others from them, but they didn't look natural or very good when on the bike.

This is a cut and paste from a reply I made to someone else a year ago. I'm going to throw it in here for you: -------- The instrument cluster probably should have been its' own video. The goal was to get it lower and to lay flatter. You will have to remove the top of the triple clamp to get at it. There are, I think, 4 bolts underneath the cluster to remove. There is a thick bracket, or collar, just under the cluster which the bolts are also holding on. I removed the cluster and placed it under that bracket. It required the use of a dremel on the inside of the cluster, where it goes up against the fork, to get it in. When you attempt to reassemble, you will need nylon spacers to take up the space created when rearranging the parts. You will also an assortment of new, longer bolts (maybe some shorter), because the originals will no longer reach. You will have to figure out what the correct length will be. I no longer remember. I also used some rubber spacers on the two most interior bolts where they contact the triple clamp. Their ability to compress allowed me to fine tune level the cluster. But don't use rubber spacers anywhere else. They compress too much. I'll link to all the parts I used here for you. You will have to get in there and see how it is set up for this to really make sense. If you do not use spacers, the ignition switch, where the key goes in, will stick up out side of triple clamp. For the clip ons, I did not remove the front wheel. I took off the triple clamp on the top. I think I had to loosen the bolts on the shocks and used a jack to move the bike frame up and down, with the rear tire in a stand. I never removed the shocks though. I didn't even do that for the fork gators. I had two sets, and I did a test fitting of the gators by slicing one set and just gluing it back after it was on. Then I just left it because it worked and you can't tell I did it like that. I never had to buy new cables, except for my speedo cable because it died. I removed all the hardware from the old handlebars. Everything worked. 2 sets nylon washers: amzn.to/3ZB5OTc 1 set Rubber washers: amzn.to/3J9ADrh M6 Bolt assortment longer amzn.to/3Fimtml M6 Bolt assortment shorter amzn.to/3ZXiYd5 Black Metal Washers (I don't think I used these) amzn.to/3YJAaSa Handlebar drill guide. You need this to install switch gear. amzn.to/3T6TUOm

@@OakInch ah i did the same . with stainless washers. but at the end i did just bend them down. So they are low and at a less awkward angle . think i have a vid on ny channel.

Welcome to RE brother...cheapest and best quality product in 650 cc segment.....modern retro ....not everthing is about speed...just love this low end torque pocket monster....

@suchet25 You aren't wrong. Coming from racing a ZX10r and a Daytona 675r. Was going to pull the trigger on a RS660 Extrema but really just want something retro'ish, fun and different.

The stock sprocket is 15 tooth.

Thanks! I learned a lot working on this bike.

@@OakInch Would be great to see you go park ot next to a stock continental GT. 🤠 That would make a great video. 😀

Nice! The money spent per HP gained, going much further than that, becomes exponentially more. I think you are in a good spot for that bike.

Thanks! It is good to know I am not making these videos in vain. Haha.

The tire sizes are in the bottom of the description.

I have not had any issues. Using a speed square and a ruler to estimate clearance, I think you would have to be over 50 degrees of lean on the bike to rub anything. I have probably never leaned more than 40 on any of my bikes based on a lean angle app I bought. The only riding difference I have noticed is that I have to push the bars a little harder into turns.

@@OakInch I'm not scraping pegs now, and don't want to change that. 😁

@@OakInch if you lower the front the same as the back, and it looks like you did,, how do you think the altering changed any?

@@DANTHETUBEMAN It rides well and stable. The main thing I have noticed is that I have to push harder into turns. I haven;t noticed anything I would consider bad.

@@OakInch More riding videos next 🤠

Good luck!

Always frustrating when weird things happen. It is probably something simple though of it was just the air box. Can you hear the fuel priming when you turn the key to on and the cut off switch to on, before you hit the ignition? I'm not sure how much you took the bike apart, but make sure all the connectors are seated under the tank that lead to it. Also, go push on your spark plug cables and verify they didn't get unseated. Check your fuses. Make sure your relays are are inserted. See if you can find out of if is fuel or spark that is missing.

@@OakInch thank you very much, this is really helpful and thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed response. After checking all this and probably more.. I found it! It was a roll over sensor mounted in a wrong orientation

@@thesundayrides Awesome!

I did raise the front fender with a kit from Hitchcocks. I did not need it when I went with a larger set of Perellis. It did not rub But, a rock got stuck between my front fender and the tire. It gouged it a little bit. So I went ahead and raised the fender. I am still using the stock kickstand. I had a center stand for a while, but I removed it.

@@OakInch Thank you! Would love to see some updated pics of your bike. Please put a vid together of all of the mods or link your instagram or both.

@@aminfamily6716 I think I will make a full mods video.

Thanks! I tucked it up under the seat. You will like the delete. You can tell the difference at higher RPMs.

@@OakInch Thank you! It's the air temp sensor, right? How about the low RPM performance? Did you notice any downsides? Thank you very much for the fast reply! I continue working on it tomorrow.

@@thesundayrides Yes. It is the air sensor. I didn't notice a whole lot at the lower end. But it was obvious that the high end had more pull and was not struggling. The airbox is definitely a bottleneck at high RPM. It is not going to become a sport bike, but I could tell the difference. It was good. I did get a new Power Commander tune a little while after I did the delete. IDK if that is needed or what other mods you have. I think the airbox delete, a full exhaust, and a Power Commander tune is probably the best bang for the buck.

@@OakInch thank you very much for the detailed answer!

LOL. No. Once was enough.

If you go to about 18:40 on the video, I talk about how to size them so you can order the right ones. It is probably better to watch that because they come in many shapes.

Yes. They a little larger on the stock rims. Rear Tire: Size 140/70-18 Front Tire: Size 110/90-18

They are after market clip ons. They can be oriented any way you want. They do not hit the tank.

Mine was too long as well. It turns out the interceptor cable is actually little longer than the GT. I just ran it under the headlight a little differently as shown in the video.

Thank you!

I think stock they are about 40 whp at the wheel. Mine was 66 WHP at the last dyno tune. I'd say about 50% more HP after all mods, including air box removal and a tune. The speed is limited by the RPM limiter and gearing. You can't really make the top end go higher with a big bore. But you can hit the top end a lot faster. You would have to change your gearing on your sprockets to get more top end. I have a 16 tooth front sprocket in right now, stock is 15. It will do 60 mph in 2nd gear, just barely, before the RPM limiter kicks in. I had a 17 tooth sprocket for a while that made it less torquey. But I could cruise at 65 in 4th gear, at about 4500 rpm. Right now, in the real world, I am getting a 4.23 sec 0-60. A stock is going to be over 6.5 in the real world. I have some other videos of what I did after this work to get it to its optimal state. This video wasn't the final result.

It is this: www.ebay.com/itm/254629820696 .

@@OakInch Thanks I noticed that has a longer temp sensor, I was thinking the others where to short b 🤔

It is a ZH2 cowl. On Ebay search for "Motorcycle Rear Seat Fairing Cover Cowl Fit for Kawasaki Z H2 2020+" to get the part. It is not a direct fit. You have to bend the metal frame under the shell a little bit. There is a video where someone transplants the metal frame from a different cowl. It isn't needed. Just push the existing frame in where the neck of the frame is the most thin. Then I had to bend out the little center tab at the very rear a little, and remove the rubber on it, too. That made it fit very well.

I just looked up zh2 seat cowl on Amazon. There is one there for about $50 that claims to be a direct fit to the z900. I can't say that it is or not, but that is the lowest price I have seen on them either way. You might still have to bend it a little.

I avoid riding it in the rain. From what I researched, it doesn't have much, if any, effects on the filters to get them wet. That might be where going with a known brand would be a good idea.

I don't really know the odds on that. I see people rolling around with stunt cages and crash bars dropping their bikes all the time. I'd rather take the small chance that the frame might crack than have to worry about a hole in my case from me falling down while goofing off. I suspect KTM made these bars with the ability to hold up under impact. I could be wrong. I'll let you know how they hold up.

So far it is running fine. It starts a little harder when cold. But no serious issues. I don't baby it either. :)

Thanks! I don't know if the belly pans are selling out fast every season, or if they are just not being made anymore. They were left overs from the zcup races. I have not seen those races since 2020.

I found this online after seeing someone else with it in a video: japan.webike.net/products/25564515.html SAITANIYA Under Cowl. Looks pretty good. Says it fits stock.

@@OakInch Thanks for the note! I'll have to look into this one.

About 30 inches.