Royal Enfield Continental GT Big Bore 865 Review, 0-60, and Epic Power Commander Map Battle

[@frederickwoods5943]

Much appreciated. I am using the 83.5mm pistons in my INT650 for 743cc, my two Triumphs have 90mm pistons 865cc; technically the 90mm pistons in the R.E. yield 863cc...your bike is very impressive and must be between 65-70 horsepower. It reminds me of the Norton 850 which had 4 gears instead of 6 and was much lighter (1970s). I had script made for my side-covers that says "750 Interceptor" in honor of the Enfield twin terror of the mid 1960's. Looking forward to the next video!!

[@thomascharnock]

Thanks for the video. Always intersting to watch videos from fellow Royal Enfield owners across the world. The roads there look so empty...a biker's dream!

[@HaydenAlerte]

This is definitely a nice build and a true ‘cafe racer’ build. You definitely put in the work, and it shows.

[@TR5T]

Every bike has a fun factor and the RE is right up there, the problem is for the money o0f the bike with conversion and time one can purchase from the factory a Speed Twin, Street Triple, MT09/07 all will produce 3 sec. or under 0-60. The RE is not that kind of bike. It is a sweet beautiful retro made for rolling around.

[@OakInch]

True enough. I remain on the quest for a sub 4 sec 0-60. Haha. I actually think I know how to get there. More on that later.

[@user-cp3zj5oc7q]

I like the seat, super cool

[@motomitch]

Damn, I knew the mileage would drop with this upgrade but I didn't think it'd be that low :( Thanks for the update video

[@OakInch]

Part of it is me riding it like a crazy person everywhere. I'm hoping to get more data with the 17 tooth sprocket and some longer cruises. Thanks for watching!

[@motomitch]

@@OakInch Yeah to an extent bikes are meant to be rev'd out more than cars lol ya know. All good though. I don't think that would stop me from doing this in a few years. Veeeery involved of course, I still haven't watched fully your process video. Any reason you didn't take it to a dyno? Was it just not wanting to spend more to get that done? Would it have helped you speed up your process after the installation and stuff?

[@OakInch]

@@motomitch I may end up a the dyno at some point. If I can get a canned map that is 95% of what I am looking for, and I can do everything myself, I am happy with that. I have one more project coming up, and a couple more that I am considering. Not sure how much money I want to spend on 10 more HP. But, it may be too early to go through the process of really fine tuning the bike at this point.

[@frederickwoods5943]

@@motomitch nobody is mentioning that of all the S&S big bore kits, the two for the Enfield 650s are the only ones that are NOT bolt-in. First the liners need to be fitted. Secondly, the inside diameter of the liners is smaller than the outside diameter of the pistons so the liners need to be bored to obtain recommended piston to cylinder wall clearance. I had my machinist cross-hatch the cylinder walls and everything is a perfect fit; only the lower piston ring needed to be filed for the proper end-gap. The upper ring and oil-control rings were dead on specification after the cross-hatch. Both the 743cc and 863cc kits are not simple bolt-in. I have built four of the so-called bolt-in kits and they are a cake walk in comparison. Hope this helps.

[@motomitch]

@@frederickwoods5943 It does. Know what you helped me figure out? If I do this t omy bike, I don't wanna be the one to do it! lol, thanks for the info.

[@jasonrichardwatts]

Badass!

[@Markdoria]

This build is amazing🔥🔥🔥Do you have any tutorials on the clip on change?

[@OakInch]

I do not. Sorry. But if you buy RE fork gators, they come with instructions on how to dismantle and reassemble the front end. It is pretty much what you need.

[@karlsquire8148]

Thanks so much for the vid and the info and problem solving you had to do with the mapping that is awesome. So, if you don't mind me asking, considering all the cost and for lack of a better word, hassles of it all to dial it in, is it worth it, would you do it again? What is your feeling of the Diablo full exhaust, install, fit, quallity, I'm thinking about buying them just love the curve in them from the from the engine back, much nicer sweep then the bends on all the other exhaust systems available.

[@OakInch]

I think that people who do projects and mods can relate to what I am about to write. The idea possesses you. You are compelled to progress towards the goal. It becomes thing you want to do most in life. IDK if I would do it again. I know it would go much faster and easier the second time. Right now the bottle neck is air flow at high RPMS. It is another $6000 for an upgraded throttle body and head. It will also gain about 10 hp. I am probably not going to do that...unless I am compelled. I do have a limit. Realistically, I think a full exhaust, DNA air filter mod, and power commander would have been enough performance. At some point the money is better spent on a different bike, unless you genuinely enjoy doing the work. Mostly, I enjoy the series of small wins as I make changes. I do like the Diablo exhaust. I bought mine in a few years ago and only just now put it on. I agree that it looks better, being curvy, than some of the others. It fills in some space down low and in front on the bike that needs filled.

[@karlsquire8148]

​@@OakInch Thank you for getting back to me, thank you for making these vids and sharing them, for me they help a alot. Your bike is really really authentic 60's and 70's original sport bike beautiful. I'm 58 years old and old cafe racers BSA's and Kawi triples were the first bikes I fell in love with as a kid with 3 older brothers. I love my continenal, I connect to it like my old 78 RD400, it had clip ons and chambers. Thank you again, great bike buddy you should be proud of that bike and all the effort and work you put into it.

[@frederickwoods5943]

@@OakInch this is why I bought two of the S&S "750cc" kits; the roughly 47cc's increase per cylinder doesn't require extensive (or any) modification to the stock injectors, throttle bodies or ECU. If a person wants a "900cc" bike there are plenty, I own two 865cc Triumphs: Bonneville SE and Thruxton for instance. My 750cc 2020 Interceptor cost about $7,500 including the out-the-door purchase in May of 2020 ($5,949), the kit and machine shop fees were less than $900 and an S&S cam, and parts (8 head bolts, cylinder base gasket, etc another $75) plus a full stainless-steel exhaust system...just north of $7,400. Doesn't include my time of course, the bike has 28,000 miles so far. It is lighter, faster and cheaper than either of my Triumphs.

[@sallysmith6723]

hey oakinch! killer job and i have been enjoying your uploads and work. quick question. what did you do to get your instrument cluster slater up like that? is there a product or solution you implemented? what length cables did you go with? i bought the k-speed clip on's and light bracket and plan to lowering mine to your spec (you mentioned in another video) last, there are a few videos on installing the clip on's. did you end up taking the front tire off? i wish there were some solid instructions on best approach and best practice when installing these. thank again for all your work. your RE is my top fav mod and alot of the work im doing to mine is bc of your bike

[@OakInch]

Thanks! That is high praise. The instrument cluster probably should have been its' own video. The goal was to get it lower and to lay flatter. You will have to remove the top of the triple clamp to get at it. There are, I think, 4 bolts underneath the cluster to remove. There is a thick bracket, or collar, just under the cluster which the bolts are also holding on. I removed the cluster and placed it under that bracket. It required the use of a dremel on the inside of the cluster, where it goes up against the fork, to get it in. When you attempt to reassemble, you will need nylon spacers to take up the space created when rearranging the parts. You will also an assortment of new, longer bolts (maybe some shorter), because the originals will no longer reach. You will have to figure out what the correct length will be. I no longer remember. I also used some rubber spacers on the two most interior bolts where they contact the triple clamp. Their ability to compress allowed me to fine tune level the cluster. But don't use rubber spacers anywhere else. They compress too much. I'll link to all the parts I used here for you. You will have to get in there and see how it is set up for this to really make sense. If you do not use spacers, the ignition switch, where the key goes in, will stick up out side of triple clamp. For the clip ons, I did not remove the front wheel. I took off the triple clamp on the top. I think I had to loosen the bolts on the shocks and used a jack to move the bike frame up and down, with the rear tire in a stand. I never removed the shocks though. I didn't even do that for the fork gators. I had two sets, and I did a test fitting of the gators by slicing one set and just gluing it back after it was on. Then I just left it because it worked and you can't tell I did it like that. I never had to buy new cables, except for my speedo cable because it died. I removed all the hardware from the old handlebars. Everything worked. 2 sets nylon washers: amzn.to/3ZB5OTc 1 set Rubber washers: amzn.to/3J9ADrh M6 Bolt assortment longer amzn.to/3Fimtml M6 Bolt assortment shorter amzn.to/3ZXiYd5 Black Metal Washers (I don't think I used these) amzn.to/3YJAaSa Handlebar drill guide. You need this to install switch gear. amzn.to/3T6TUOm

[@sallysmith6723]

thank you for taking the time to put this response together. much appreciated and many thanks!

[@seandowns4298]

You needed a custom map making at a rolling road to get the fuelling spot on… every bike is slightly different. A none custom map is just a compromise. If you over fuel the the engine you will get bore wash and end up getting wear in your bores.

[@OakInch]

After I removed the airbox last week, I am pretty sure that I need a custom map. I can tell it is getting more air. The two canned maps I have used for the mods I have are probably leaving some on the table. I think it is leaning more towards too lean at this point though. I will have to go to a dyno. I have been holding off on that because I wasn't sure if I was done with performance mods. I think this is goiing to be good for a while.

[@OakInch]

Hey Sean, I actually got it on a dyno and tuned today. Video update incoming after I get some tests and data together.

[@timmonda]

Hey there! Did you have to add any links to the chain with the 17T front sprocket? I’m about to do a 17T swap on my GT650, sounds like 16T doesn’t require any added chain length but haven’t been able to find any info about using the 17T. Thanks!

[@OakInch]

You should get a chain with more links. I didn't do that at first. It did need it. I'm on a 16tooth sprocket now and that is fine with the original chain.

[@timmonda]

@@OakInch Awesome, thanks so much!

[@SvenTviking]

Sort the suspension out, YSS shocks and fork kit.

[@honestjohn6222]

Looks Great , only one thing that would look Great , twin discs ,

[@OakInch]

Yeah. Enhanced braking is always a plus.

[@TerraMagnus]

@HitchcocksMotorcycles given the comments here, the dyno results, etc. are you doing anything to fix the product?

[@DANTHETUBEMAN]

thats a fast bike, a tek 2into1 should give more tourques 😁

[@OakInch]

I like the way two pipes look. The ones on there are now are basically empty tubes. As far as air flow, I am pretty happy with them.

[@DANTHETUBEMAN]

@@OakInch ok that's KEWL, I have seen Old bike pix with the rounded look, so it is a retro look. and should flow better without sharp bends. The Tek 2 in to 1 is like a crossover pipe in a car, it creates a scavenging pulse on the other cylinder pulling in more fuel air mix. I think your good ot Torque anyways. 😁

[@DANTHETUBEMAN]

@@OakInch you could start using your bike to measure things on the channel now that you have dono data an test runs.

[@royalenfield-jfrench2109]

I have the INT 650 sunset strip. What temperature are you getting on the gauge?

[@OakInch]

Usually around 80C. On colder days it will be around 70C. On hot days it will get to around 90C.