Thnx, the tool is called ”boring head” or ”ursvarvningsverktyg” and it’s used for making accurate holes.

@@fiftynineridge tak :)

fair enough. but to the non-expert on these things it could be forgiven for thinking it's an AS3 as the frame and engine numbers both say so

Sorry but that is wrong. The AS3 has reeds as standard.

no you're wrong@@fiftynineridge. the actual AS3 (1971/72 with engine number AS3 0????? or AS3 1?????) has no reeds. The early RD125 ('73, '74, '75 with engine number AS3 2????? on ridged casting) has reeds. I have both

@@as3cs3 we could probably argue forever about this but I dont have to win this fight 😂 Fact still stands, it is sold, registered as an 1973 AS3 and it has the original cylinders on.

no you're wrong again@@fiftynineridge. The parts lists and Yamaha manuals for this machine call it an RD125. The AS3 proper does not have reeds. Fact

Puchshop has those now, the addy and the akoa

Thnx, for many nice words about my struggle with the SP 100. I’m not sure why the gears broke but I think that the gear quality was questionable.

@@fiftynineridge I managed to source a Malossi HTQ 16/44 6711353 kit from spain just now, probably the last one in the country. Same as the TopRacing kit that require press fit of the gears. I have personal experience with Malossi in the scooter tuning world, and i hope this will not fail my expectations and since in my opinion TopRacing is pretty much a cheap brand, i think its an better option with an reputable brand. Currently i have sourced probably the last Malossi 120cc cylinderkit, and in combination with the Malossi Multivar and the gear kit and Doppler S3R i hope to reach 100km/t minimum. On paper the 1:2.75 ratio should result in roughly 16% more speed with the same engine RPM and perhaps with better belt length adjustment to fully utilize the Multivar, it would be 18% at best so it would be 94.4km/t over the stock 80km/t. And with the 120cc cylinderkit and Doppler S3R allowing for more RPM, hopefully that should care for the last 5.6km/t 🙏 I managed to find the last Polini speed clutch in America and Newfren clutchbell to replace the old worn parts, in hopes it will be more reliable at max speed. Time will tell if i nailed it right or just wishing for too much.

​@Derp Herpson which website have you ordered?

​@Derp Herpson I've been looking for the malossi htq 6711353 gears for my speedfight 2 100cc. I dont know why but some are not listed as 16/44 but are 17/37 or 14/35 but they say there for the peugeot 100 engine. There listed as the malossi 6711353 though. Any idea why? And are they still suitable?

@@gazcambridge Hey. I did some research with the Malossi catalog from 2010, and it shows that the Malossi gearset 6711353 will fit: SPEEDFIGHT, TREKKER, VIVACITY, ELYSEO, and X-FIGHT 100CC models. The gearset I have acquired is pretty dusty and has a speck of surface rust. Considering the parts are probably 12 years old, it's pretty impressive that it's in one piece. I have counted the teeth, and it is in fact 16/44 as per the item description that was released by Malossi and still requires pressfit before use. I have not personally tried to install the gears and compared them side by side, but I will trust Malossi that it will. I have seen vendors that have misinformation about the part itself, but if you go by Malossi part number 6711353 and get a part that has not been touched since it left the Malossi factory, then you are sure it should fit. The gearset fits the early gen. 100CC engines since the engine is basically the same across platforms with a few exceptions for parts like the exhuast, carburetor and possibly the oil pump and manufacturer over the years (Grunter and Dellorto). There is a difference in the engine transmission side like the varioator, belt, and clutch depending on what year it was manufactured, and due to the fact that newer models have catalytic converters installed, they had to fine-tune the engine to compensate lost power. If you are going to source this gearset, I can advise you to stay away from PonziRacing and Scooter-Mania. I got ripped off from PonziRacing, and Scooter-Mania is a malicious website that steals all the information you post, like your credit card.

It`s a home built pipe. Not so pretty but worked great. There is a video about that build too.

@@fiftynineridge i am just watching that video now :D you know you could make and sell those pipes and make alot of money dude :D i would buy one for sure

Sorry but no, I build just for close friends and myself, every pipe needs to be customized for the specific setup and porting rpm range so it mke no sense to build a generic pipe. There is no such thing as a one size fits all.

@@fiftynineridge OK, thank you anyways. The videos are a help when sorting through my 100 pug

Sorry, don’t remenber.

HL 360A, 24 mm

Det var lite urnött i bussningen till växelmekanismen som sitter skruvad utanpå motorn. Köpte en ny sådan hel enhet på mopedrenovering och då funkade allt perfekt. www.mopedrenovering.se/veteranmopeddelar/sachs/sachs-503-ls-handvxl/vaxellada/komplett-vaxelmekanism-3-vxl-hand.html

tack för svar det var till hjälp👍🏽

Det var lite urnött i bussningen till växelarmen/axeln som sitter skruvad utanpå motorn. Köpte en ny sådan hel enhet på mopedrenovering och då funkade allt perfekt. www.mopedrenovering.se/veteranmopeddelar/sachs/sachs-503-ls-handvxl/vaxellada/komplett-vaxelmekanism-3-vxl-hand.html

@@fiftynineridge tack för svar det var till hjälp👍🏽

Ask here or in some of the SP 100 video comments.

@JJ's Garage i want to make a cylinder head, central spark plug also 55mm because of the malossi cylinder block, could you tell me how many cc did you make your cylinder head? Also the squish angle, and did you make it 50 50? Or 40 60 percent?

I need to send measurements to the turner

@@fabricioadippe190 It’s many years since I sold the sp100 so I cannot give you any measurements, but I’m pretty sure that I went for 50% squish and 12:1 in comp ratio. Regarding squish angle the easiest way is to put the piston in the lathe chuck first an sneak in on the angle, then it’s set for the head work.

@@fiftynineridge thank you so much

Sorry to hear that you have problems😢 I can try to guide you in the right direction but I need more specific info. First , is the engine running fine and revs good?

@@fiftynineridge when warmed up properly seems to run OK, but this takes alot longer than it use to, also when I stop at a set of lights or crossroads I have to constantly rev the bike to stop it from cutting out, it feels strange as there's power at all then all of a sudden it grabs then pulls me along, I'm new to this but I somehow feel like it could be my clutch not 100% sure tho, the bike was stood for 10 years before I got it in April of this year

@@thomaswhittaker9785 If the engine is running good you should start by checking the clutch for wear or broken springs, then the variator for worn weights and of corse the condition of the drive belt.

@@thomaswhittaker9785 hi, im having the same exact problem with my speedfight 100cc. I have changed the carb settings and roller weights and it has not helped at all. Also the clutch looked fine. Have you found any solution to this problem?

32mm

It is really hard to guess what has happened from just reading your explaination but if the variator touches the cover it should have got loose from the variator shaft. Sometimes when the belt slips for a while the variator weights can be so hot that the plastic starts to melt and then the variator won’t work properly anymore. Start with investigating the variator and see if there is something wrong there and move on from that point. Maybe the belt also has worn to a degree where it no longer wide enough so it has to be replaced aswell?

@@fiftynineridge Ok, thanks for the respons. I took it for a testdrive today and after a while it stopped, so i removed the variator cover to check how it looked and the axle where the weights are that goes into the engine was stuck, so i turned it a bit and it let go, and after it was a bit hard to start again. What could this be? I checked the fuel line and the vacuum valve that goes into the gastank and they worked, if it was some bad bearings in the engine would that be enough to stop the engine while running? If it would be some bad bearings wouldn´t that just like vibrate a bit more, and not stop the engine all toghether. Could something in the engine have taken damage when it heatsized? If so what is the most likely to have taken damage.

@@fiftynineridge Hello again, today i opened the cylinder to check, and there was scratches in it, not deep, i could see them but not feel them. So that must have been why it was stuck after it stopped. Does this mean that the crank or bearings are bad? I don´t know what else it could be. Like i said before, i now use premixed fuel with 3% oil, and i have checked the vacuumtap that it worked, i have removed the extra fuelfilter, the carb is cleaned and has the right size jets. It has new airfilter and sparkplug. I saw now that the scratches are pretty wide, one is like in half the cylinder, almost like the pistonring itself has made the wide scratch, could i have stretched them to much when i installed the cylinder?

@@NorthSurvival if you have scratches in the cylinder you need to also check the piston, that’s the softest part and should take most of the abuse during a possible heat seize. You talk about the piston rings during the install on the piston but Did you check the ring gap before install? If the ring gap is to small then you would get problems with heat seizes. The rings need to be able to expand during heat up and they can not expand more than the ring gap, then they will seize. Google ring gap to get proper info on the subject. Regarding the bearings, test if you can wiggle the crankshaft on one of the sides (ex. variator side) if they move alot up/down or in out then they are bad.

@@fiftynineridge Hi, now after i opened it up again i saw that there was scratches in the cylinder and bigger/deeper once in the piston/rings. So that whole cylinderkit for 200$ is trash. I don´t know what to do, maybe the crank got damaged the first time it heatsized, so now it´s not inline. I checked the pistonrings and they had a small gap like they should so they can expand. And i checked the bearings like you said on the variatorside and i could not move it one mm, they where really firm. What do you think, ruled out a lot of things and the only thing left (i think) is that the crankshaft/crankshaft bearings has gotten damaged/out of line. And when i now opened the cylinder it was oil in it and on the piston and in the bottom of the crankcase so i am pretty sure that it get´s the oil it needs, so that can´t be why.

Probably yes, there must be some sort of rigidity in the setup of course but the material is soft so if you go slow with small increased steps it should work.

You should try a harder clutch spring and maybe some lighter variator weights to get more low end agility. Dr pulley weights can be a good option as they are not linear in function.

I ran a cheap 28mm PWK copy on mine and that worked fine. Regarding jetting it is impossible to say what you need for your engine, you have to figure it out by reading plugs. I had around 178 in main and 35-38 in idle jet on that 28mm carb. Regarding gears, I would say no, the bike will feel more agile with standard gearing and I tried this and some more power with a new pipe and then it all give up with a 💥 I didn’t like the new gearing at all 😀

Thnx, I aimed for that almost original look and there is not much room for the V3 engine so it is a very close call for the chain not to touch the frame. To get some decent speed I had to put 15 sprocket in front (took some cutting in the gear pedal axle to fit) and 36 rear. Can’t really go smaller rear, then the chain will touch the frame. That’s the only downside but I can live with it. Still it is a quite rare build that almost no one else done before, at least not what I’m aware of. I’ve only seen one maxi with this engine but the it wasn’t mounted so that the cylinder is in the same angle as the E50.

@@fiftynineridge yeah keeping the cylinder horizontal to look like an e50 that's gotta be my favorite part of the build

Totally understand your point about the frame, it wasn’t that easy to start grinding in a new frame, but then I thought, things is only things and dreams are supposed to get real and things are supposed to be used and you shouldn’t die still curious so what the heck just do it.

Sorry, no I don’t remember. I watched and calculated the new ones on this video and they seem to be 44/35

Yes, I have now added the portmap as video preview so visit the video tab @ my channel page. It will show soon after it has passed the KZbin review process. About boring the OEM, I'm really not sure, the biggest challenge for the SP100 is heat and the aluminum cylinder is better on heat transfer so I would rather recommend the Airsal I guess.

Thank you so much for getting back to me and also thank you for arranging the port map as well! You are a legend! Yeah I have been thinking about the heat as my old 50/70 AC used to get incredibly hot as well, thanks for the recommendation I have been thinking about just biting the bullet and getting the airsal kit!

Well, there is no easy and cheap way to fight the speed resistant peugeot speedfight 100. The only off shelf exhaust of any use that I`ve found is Doppler S3R. You also need the 120cc Airsal big bore kit, especially if you cannot get a port job done. Then you need a deacent PWK 28 of any kind. This is already getting you above your budget but should give a top speed of 100-105km/h. The multivar variator has less effect on top speed, more on acceleration and overall performance. An original variator with dr pulley rollers is quite ok with a good drivebelt.

Yep

Yes, the ignition has to be set every time you take it apart, but I always run the ignition in full advance so there is really no issue. Makes it possible more difficult to start but you benefit in midrange rpm. That is on untuned or slightly tuned cylinders. High performance setups with 74cc is a different topic. Then I always run HPI 210 and that has to be timed with an micrometer indicator at TDC.

@@fiftynineridge hows the best way to time the engine ?

@@billypurvis6334 set the breaker points distance to 0,35mm and the ignition advance to 2mm BTDC

im having a problem with it to its not getting spark, did you find a solution?

Sorry no, I do not sell this head/inserts

@@fiftynineridge OK. Thank you. Great videos. Great work.

Try with a colder spark plug. If you are using NGK 8’s use 9’s instead.