Hi, is that the black box that says Adverc on it or the green header tank with coolant in?

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys I don't see "Adverc" but yes with a transparent pipe that looks like coolant in it , and a smaller black /orange pipe.

@gg-jz7wt yes that to the header tank. With this boat having a hot water tank that's heated from the engine, the coolant gets very close to the top of the heat exchanger. Having an external tank that's above that helps to get rid of any air in the system. That pipe is the return and then the clear one with green in is to the top of the heat exchanger.

Hi, this all came with the boat so I'm not able to comment. I would have thought that a new transducer would come with the housing, and if not that is really strange. Something like this comes with the housing.www.force4.co.uk/item/Raymarine/T910-Triducer/Y60?stock=44280&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADow_avutk6MQ-rAlfzM0MqK6FxkZ&gclid=CjwKCAjw74e1BhBnEiwAbqOAjJgy2UbNxdPIYVKne7ka-wwLwzxxAZUMR8VwmaRROftLNPWgF5VduRoCprAQAvD_BwE

Hi, I'm thanks for the question - yes mine is a separate sensor as this engine only had a temperature switch. I installed the sensor where the factory option is for the deluxe panel. When I started this i didn't want to mess with the original electronics, I wanted to be able to remove everything if it didn't work. As it happens it's been great and not caused any problems. You can tap into this stuff and use what's already on the engine but I think it's difficult to run both. I'm not sure resistive type gauges will work with two things trying to measure from the same source but would interesting to try this.

Not had a good experience?

Sorry - are you asking if you can? The answer is yes, it will charge via usb without a battery

It will definitely keep a phone charged, it doesn't even need to be connected to a 12v to use the USB function.

Hi, thanks for the information and advice about the MOD. Looking forward to exploring Milford, Fishguard and then making our way up the coast

It was just a joke... it's still ok to do that every now and then?

Hi Nick - yeah, this summer seems a bit of a repeat of last year when it was 20knts or nothing. Fingers crossed we just get a couple of weeks with more stability 👍

Just hopefully the weather holds and then we can get going! ⛵️

It's time - we're looking forward to it ⛵️👍

Will do - thanks Richard ⛵️👍

Hi, interesting - how are you finding the output of the 80w panel?

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Just actually tried it today sort of. Connected the same batteries (small 12v, 7,2AH AGM batterys) to both of them just to check. They are standing next to each other so getting the same sun with the same angle. And the Dokio is almost doing worse from what I can see (then again only from their charge controllers so not a true test ofc). I think the panels on the Dokia is actually what is rated (in my case 80w) but the plastic cover/protection and what not is hindering the panels... like puttin you "bare" panels behind a glass pane. So it is probably 80w (in my case 2x40w) panels for sure... but maybe delivering maybe 40-50w tops... I bought a long time a go a chinese solar panel for soldering (no covering, bare panel) and it was (as far as I remember 2w maybe just maybe 2,5w) but it was rocking... that 2-2,5w was pretty much every angle, and low sun light... bought another panel same dimensions but with a "cover" and it was not near the same output. So I'm guessing the panels is exactly what is rated but the product (with the protective cover) is not actually so great... Again my 30w panel is delivering the (it has no plastic cover) better... I don't know really the plastic does a good job also, easier to clean, longevity when you bring it to places... But I think it hinders the output of the panels for sure. I think it scatters the waves, and maybe with perfect placement it does works but remove the plastic and you don't need that perfect placement... Just my thoughts... I will test it some more, but for now my 30w (fixed panel) does seem to produce more energy then my 80w Dokio... and I think I know why. ----edit Just checked both panels (they are side by side) and now it's really low light, sun is setting)... Dokio 12,1v (so not charging as much) and my 30w doing 13v still so charging battery (somewhat). As the Dokio was so cheap (campaign of sorts) maybe I will get another one and take the plastic cover off to check the differences). I think it with the plastic cover of it will get more scattered light into the panels sort of and actually get better output overall... but yes will be prone to damage)... Would be cool to check what the difference is though... ---edit2 🙂 www.amazon.se/dp/B07JVJJH47/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07JVJJH47&pd_rd_w=GaTj4&content-id=amzn1.sym.7a4fbf23-63c0-49ba-afa3-64d64b9ffe92&pf_rd_p=7a4fbf23-63c0-49ba-afa3-64d64b9ffe92&pf_rd_r=ZPPVKNJQ3P0E8TZBV778&pd_rd_wg=ybcLJ&pd_rd_r=7a55f7f6-7a94-4575-b1f4-d68469c6c9e9&s=industrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw This is twice the price of what I payed (in my country from the same Dokio brand) and should output only 20w more. But I bet theese output actually 100w for longer than theese 80w (my variant) foldable does. But again... If I get 60-70w with perfect placement I'm happy with them. They are more portable and lightweight...

@alexanderwingeskog758 interested results. You will definitely get better performance from the rigid panel in the link above than a flexible one. I might take the covers off one of mine and give that a try

Hi, is that just booting from an Sd card?

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Yers, Managed to get it sorted, now having to wait for snail mail from Spain for the rest of the parts.

Hi, I've seen a couple of the cases, that's on my list but so is a 3d printer!

Hi - KIP zones have changed a lot since this version, in the latest version they use SignalK as the source and are system wide. You will need to set them up again from SignalK rather than in KIP, Kip will just detect them and show then without any additional changes. Go to SignalK, Data Browser and check the slider by Meta Data. You can configure Zones on that page. You can also uninstall the zones plug-in i believe but if you have a fresh install and its fully up to date it might not have been installed from the start.

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Thanks, I got it working now. By default Signal K Data Browser Meta Data is/was turn off. Having is "on" is key to seeing the Zone settings. Yes, I have the "Zones" plug-in which added to the confusion. I am now removing. Kudos. Any recommendation for a source on KIP documentation ?

@dreupen there isn't really a document, some of the help points at my videos which I did for them. They are on v2.10 or 2.11 now. This was the last fundamental change which introduced the config manager/authentication. Since then it's been cosmetic and some other improvements and zones which I haven't had chance to cover KIP 2.4.1 - Lots of new features to this excellent software package! SignalK - KIP - OpenPlotter kzbin.info/www/bejne/q3XEpGtrbdeZbLs

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys I am finding it a bit wanky. I first added nominal, alert, warn for my start battery which showed up as expected on the KIP radial display. I then set zones for my LiFePO4 house battery and it looks fine but now the zone are no longer displayed on the start battery KIP display. The meta data looks fine. I restarted signal K each time and still no joy. Do you have this issue?

@dreupen you have to tell Kip to display Normal and Nominal states, that's under general options in Kip, by default it only shows alerts. Has the data updated for the other battery, I found that if nothing got sent to Kip as in a data update it wouldn't show the zone.

Hi, thanks for your comments. It looks like it's seatalk so some connection can be made. I can't control mine directly from the axiom, I have to activate/standby from the head unit. I believe you can send it a track but I've not actually tried that since I installed it. You might need a seatalk to seatalkNG converter and then I think it depends on what else you have on that old network if that's worth the investment, if that's how all your other data gets across then like I did, it's worth it

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys many thanks for your reply , there was a speed -log and a depth also a small Raymarine 158i gps , also an analog radar , I’ve removed the speed/log transducer and fitted a pair of RV 320 transducers to go with the new 2 x 9” axioms , think I’ll run it all as two separate systems for this season as no funds left for a new radar at the moment . 🥟 stew .

Sounds like a good plan. I still haven't replaced my analog radar, i went with an upgrade on my AIS first. I think i need to do the same and start replacing my older ST60 units before i purchase a radar.

Many thanks for your comment

Hi, I think it was B1, around 14.4v max is enough for this battery type.

Thanks for your comments 👍

Good luck with it. The bucket is a great idea 👍⛵️

I would keep your motor connected to the battery. That little controller is only really designed to switch on some lights etc, the motor might draw more than it can handle.

This video might help you. I'm using a circuit that's linked in this video for RPM, for temp it's a KUS temp sensor and a voltage divider. You can also use digital 1wire sensors which I've used for the exhaust temp and now oil temp - let me know if you need anything further - OpenPlotter - ESP32 - Circuits & Sensors - Digitising an older engine MD2030 - SensESP kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2KVf5esh7aBrrs

Hi, I got mine from force4, they show as in stock on the website.

Hi, thanks for subscribing- you can basically do what you want with it which is really good. Give us a shout if you need any help

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Cheers, I can see from your roster of videos that most of my questions have been answered so I appreciate that. What I am currently trying to source is a decent enough panel that could sit outside. I'd rather not have touch screen but maybe a couple of page selecting momentary switches. Also just been down a rabbit hole on how to get a signal from the NASA clipper depth sounder. I love their simple kit, but looks like I need to learn a bit of arduino to make that work. Happy Sailing and regards from Milford Haven.

Have a look on the OpenMarine forum for the NASA kit, I'm sure someone has done that. I had a Duet on my last boat and it was great. Gonna try and get to Milford Haven soon, looks really nice 👍

Many thanks for your comments

Many thanks for your comments

Hi - Yes it could, at the moment i'm doing that in Node-red as its helping me learn that platform and i've also made it show me cost. I can have a look at adding that to the code. We just need to times it by the voltage and create another path

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Thank you I am learning from your examples as well. Can you show us how you also did this in node red as well.

Hi, I will do a video on Node Red but it's likely to be a few months yet. I need to do some sailing while the weather is still good. I will come back this though 👍⛵️

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Fair enough enjoy your time at sea. For the next round of videos can you also do a DC shunt voltage current and watts as well.

Many thanks for your comments on the video.

Hi - We are 230v, we're supposed to be the same as Europe now however, today things are sat at 246v. Did i say the wrong voltage in the video?

Many thanks for your comments on the video.

Hi, The main issue i had was with the time that the Pi was seeing on the Seatalk network. Although the rest of my Seatalk kit was fine with it, the Pi would keep switching the day and the month round, so data being logged with be in Jan 2nd and then the next minute Feb 1st and then back again. By using the cheap usb GPS and filtering the data, i could control that but also fall back to my Ray GPS if the usb was unplugged or not working. None of that data is passed back to the Ray kit as the Pi only reads from the Seatalk 1 network. That issue went away as i moved over to a MacArthur hat, and im now on N2K for part of my network. Its still really useful and i now filter my AIS GPS info from my Ray one as applications like OpenCPN dont link having more than one source. Hope that provides some context.

Many thanks - I will try and do some more work either converting another skech or a plan for monitoring the heater that we have onboard.

Hi - Thanks for your comments. Your project sounds intestering, i'll have a look at these sensors. I would like something for the fridge thats wireless. Is that device talking direct to an ESP then?

You can buy an ecowitt gateway (little blue thing that can plug into usb for power) for the system and sensors then connect to it via rf. The gateway has a built web server to display the sensor data via a web page. However, it also has web api which output live json data. I coded the esp device to call this web service... So i guess out of the box you can monitor sensors from a web browser or use a esp to build an alarm device or somthing by having it monitor the live data

Many thanks for your comments

I would go with the Pi5 now rather than this one. Again its really simple and fun to build. Just start with the basics and build it up.

Hi - The OpenPlotter software is written for the Raspberry Pi, so that makes it really easy to get started. Just follow the guides and connect your sensors and or hats to get all the information you want straight into it.

Many thanks for your comments on the video. Good luck with your project and if we can help, give us a shout.

Hi, many thanks for your comments on the video. The display is one of these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253289838646?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=sA4xWqdKSHW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=1XqhIgr5QPm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY the price has gone up a little since I got mine but I’ve been really pleased with it, it’s bright and clear with low power consumption. In terms of GPS, I use the boats GPS via NMEA2000 but I have also used a cheap USB one from Amazon with good results. Virtually any of them will work and also make a good backup.

Hi, No resisitor needed with using that HAT - Its already built in. Just plug and play.

Hi, the short answer is no. It can only convert units, it’s not possible to do custom calculations. You could do this in a package called Node-red which I’m currently learning myself. You can make the current one show out of 100% by using either ration or % I think. Video to follow on Node-red

Hi, many thanks for the comments. How many sensors are setup in your code and how many plugged in? If you connect to the SensESP web page can you see addresses on the sensors? We did the same with OpenPlotter and AIS. We used it when we crossed to Alderney from Studland Bay. We got a bit stuck in the fog and it was great to track the big ships.

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Commented out all but one sensor, and only one sensor attached. The sensor is 'playing dead', showing only 0000's and 'false' in signal k. Gotta be something simple! Thanks

If you go back to your breadboard setup, is it working? Do you have a resistor across the data line?

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys changed the 1w sensor and I got an address - on breadboard yes.

Is that sensor now working on your other setup?

Hi - what charts did you go for?

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys I went for the Lighthouse chart so will give the update a go next week when I am back at the boat. Just launched on Wednesday for the season so all to be tried and tested next weekend

Quick update- Axiom update went flawlessly. Took three attempts to get the Lighthouse charts updated via the app but all working perfectly now.

Glad it well, it also took me a couple of tries to get my maps to update. That whole process isn't great with the app. I might try Navionics next time

Hi, Its not a sensor i've used all that much if im honest, its sort of gone on the back burner as i've been playing with OP4 and some other things. You needed to install PyPilot in the old version to get access to pitch/roll etc and i think thats still the same now. The recommended sensor Is ICM-20948, buy a good quality one, i didn't first time around and it wasn't detected. I think this one came from Pihut. I'll try and do something with it shortly and come back.

Search ICM-20948 and PyPilot

Hi John, glad it’s helped. I can’t remember if that setting was a default a few versions back but it’s definitely a question that’s come up more often. Are the other sensors all on the same ESP?

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Hi Matt, all sensors are on the ESP, except a BME280 for the saloon temperature and I plan to connect my Victron smart shunt direct to the Pi soon. At present, I can't see any info from the engine bay BME280 or more than one 1wire sensor.

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Hi Matt, I'm after some help please re a BME280 sensor on the ESP32. I have now managed to see all 1 wire sensors on the ESP and they are working ok. I have looked at my coding for the BME280 against your coding (I know you've opted for the BMP280) and can't see any difference, I've also amended address (0x76) in the coding, but all I see on the SK data browser are null values for temperature and pressure and a zero value for the relative humidity. Any help will be appreciated. Regards, John

Hi, I think i had to call that sensor library as a dependency, in the code, take a look at the platformio.ini file and look for adafruit/Adafruit BMP280 Library @ ^2.5.0, try replacing that with adafruit/Adafruit BME280 Library @ ^2.2.4 i think its version is related to this www.arduinolibraries.info/libraries/adafruit-bme280-library Im just guessing on this one so let us know. You might also have to add humidity in the main code as my only does temp/pressure.

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Thanks Matt, I already had the BME280 2.2.2. library added in the ini.file, I've now updated it to the 2.2.4 version, but alas no change. Still see 2 nulls and a zero for the temp/pressure/humidity values. I've tried removing the 0x76 from bme280.begin(0x76); still no joy.

Hola, haz clic en el engranaje en la parte inferior del video y luego en los subtítulos y en la traducción automática. El español debería estar ahí como opción.

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys Buenos días, en la rueda de opciones de KZbin, no está activada la elección del español. Tiene que seleccionar usted en qué idiomas quiere que sea traducido su video. El usuario que vea el vídeo seleccionará entre los idiomas que usted haya activado. Envío foto para que vea que solo puedo ver la traducción al inglés, porque solo el inglés fue el que usted activó o es el único que sale por defecto. Gracias Este mensaje iba a ser enviado por el correo que me envió, pero no acepta respuestas y no pude enviar la prueba con una captura de pantalla, dónde en la rueda de opciones sólo sale el inglés como única elección.

@SAMSUNGTABLET-uh9is Hola, he vuelto a mirar y todas las opciones de traducción automática están marcadas. Debajo de donde dice inglés, ¿ves Traducción automática? Lo probé en un par de dispositivos y puedo ver esa opción en todos ellos.

@@BoatingwiththeBaileys sí, es cierto, ya lo he visto, me encanta tus videos, me voy a hacer el de el número de velocidades. Gracias

Excelente - muchas gracias