Thank you for sharing this little tip and helping the Mx5 community 👍

What a great idea, thank you for sharing

That’s great news 🙏 thank you for your comments and sorry for the delay

Really pleased it helped sorry for the delay

Thank you buddy

Give it a nice gentle clean with brake cleaner, make sure nothing goes in the electrical system though and it’ll be fine. The “coating” is from factory but soon disappears as soon as you get carbon build up on it . 👍👍

You’ll have to let us know what you think 👍

@ I’ve had them on my old na I recently sold.. they work fine

Thank you for the update

It’s always the simple jobs that turn out to be a nightmare lol

Hopefully it’ll work for you 🤞

My motor was built in 2007 and it still has it’s original tank, save your money and just keep your eye on it 👍👍

Yup near two years in now and it’s still going strong 👍

I’d say yes just because mine were old and I’ll fitting, it just makes everything “feel” better lol

Hey, thanks! Hopefully more videos coming soon 🤞🤞

Great point!

You didn’t miss it, I’ll try and pop out over the weekend to see the difference and let you know 👍

My money says unless you are really pushing the car hard and have lots of time in the seat, the difference will be small if noticeable at all. But don't ask the boy racers, they will argue to the end of time they are the greatest thing since N2O. What you will notice is yours doors will start to work like crap depending on how you parked.

lol so true, like Jagboy states unless you’re driving around bendy roads at speed you’ll not notice much of a difference. However, I can state as “normal” driver there was definitely a difference in the in the thud when I closed the door. I’m sure they are worth because my old ones were not going anything really

Did it work?

I can’t be 100% sure, I can’t foresee it’ll be much different. Just use a plastic. Removal tool and try it carefully👍👍

Correct! It needs a full new inner and outer wing. That’s a future video, this one was just to get it through it’s MOT for the summer👍👍

Oh no! Just walk away grab a brew and go back to it! If not it’ll be easier just to remove the front bumper and sort it from there. At least you’ll be able to clean and undercoat the crash bar.

I’m not sure what you mean, which screws? I never removed the alternator at all as I had no screws to remove that were near it?

@@jackos5s I'm sorry, I meant nuts. (I better explained it in a comment under part 1 of your manifold swap and might share a picture over there too)

Can you please send me a picture so that I can try and help you

​@@jackos5s I meant those nuts that you talked about in your video from about minute 9 to minute 16 (my bad I originally said incorrectly "screws" in my message above). There are 7 of them; 3 are above the pipes and 4 are under. From those underneath I managed to undo only the one at very end (12:20 in your video). The other three are under the manifold pipes and those hard to even see and hard to access directly. I could only access them with flexible ratchet attachments and these nuts are too stiff to undo that way even after soaking them overnight with WD-40. I reckon maybe you managed to undo them if you have a slim 1/4" ratchet with a long 15m socket, so I thought about ordering that, but then I realised that I need to access these nuts also with torque ratchet to refit them them with 50Nm torque. If I remove the battery, auxiliary drivebelt and alternator, I will be able to access these nuts without specials tools. Then I might even be able to fit there an impact wrench :D Also it won't hurt to check auxiliary drivebelt and perhaps replace it. On top of that as I can see your car doesn't have an aircon, and you barely managed to get manifold out while not having aircon pipe in the way. I'll try to share a picture with you (I think the only way to I can do it is to to upload it externally and post a link here). Btw, thanks for such a quick response to my message and also for the video - the part about removing shields with the articulated ratchet in spanner was super useful. Although other than getting that spanner I also had to get a socket extender and a low profile bolt extractor set, as there was one screw I couldn't undo (the one on the left side of upper shield where there was very little space. I could only access it with a spanner and could move it without extender and with extender the 10mm ratchet was slipping on that super rusty screw, so hence I had to get even a bolt extractor).

Thank you for responding buddy, yeah it sounds like you’ve had a right pig of a job to get it sorted 😳, you’re 💯 correct mine doesn’t have AC so mine would have been much easier to do and to be fair the way you’ve done it by removing the alternator and belt is definitely the best way to go. The belt can replaced and the alternator cleaned up before it goes back in. In hindsight I think I should have done the same. In fact once I get a bit of time I might do another video showing this. But you’re right the bolts under the manifold are an absolute nightmare! But I’m hoping you got there in the end🤞

@@jackos5s Unfortunatelly I've got stuck again on the bottom screw of the alternator. I've ordered 14mm 1/2" socket (I have only 1/4" 14mm) and extender bars (I've only one set) and hopefully I will manage to do it like this fella - kzbin.info/www/bejne/r5XTdad3l7GGZsk

I decided not to replace belt as it looks okay and if I won't sell the car sometime soon, I want to replace also pulleys sometime at spring time, as that is only thing that ever made me stuck with an 320d that I sold after 232k and pulley is only reason I ever needed recovery. Also a friend of mine with Passat had to replace whole engine because auxiliary belt broke and got stuck in the engine.

Sorry! Did you manage to get it done?

The “experts” will tell you not to, however as long as you don’t mess around too much they’ll be fine. You’ll need to move them to clean around them👍

Thank you I appreciate that 🫡

Hi buddy, it’s the 2.0 👍 thank you for the question

Really for the delay, to be fair it’s holding up a treat. Definitely worth the price 👍

Hi Buddy, yeah sorry work and home renovations have got in the way! I haven’t been out in the Mazda since April 😢

Thank you for commenting I do appreciate it

Yeah, apparently it’s quite a common thing, just one of many lol

That’s absolutely brilliant, thank you for sharing. Hopefully it’ll help someone else who had the same problem 👌🤞

Glad it was helpful!

It should be more or less level if you haven’t touched the cogs ⚙️, however if you have have you tried the dial in the car to see if it goes up or down

It certainly is!

Agree 👍

I would suggest that piston has been changed from original! They should have groves that allows you to twist them back so that you can change the pads. In relation to the handbrake cable it’s clearly evident that you have a problem somewhere on the network, have you tried to adjust it under the gear knob gaiter?

@@jackos5s yeah, the piston has the same cross grooves as yours but that's it. You seem to suggest there's another indentation on just one of the grooves. The handbrake apparently adjusts itself after some time/use; we shall see.

Sorry I thought you meant the grooves, the tiny little indentation should be there, however if you can see it or the piston has been replaced it may not have one. Therefore just turn it until until it won’t go anymore then unwind it to the nearest groove. Did your handbrake cable work correctly before?

Glad you think so! Thank you for the nice comments

I’m actually quite impressed with how it’s going, it’s been on through high winds, snow and heavy rain without any issues 👍

Glad it was helpful!

Glad you liked it and it helped

Thank you so much for this 👍😊

I’ll double check, but mine worked a treat it was around £200 from Amazon, I borrowed a “proper” mig welder from a welder pall of mine and it was just too powerful, it just blow out the Mazdas steel work because it’s so thin, and that was on the lowest Amp

Did it work?

@@jackos5s Now I know what each thing is to do proper maintenance, greetings from Spain

Great idea, why don’t you do a video 👍

Thank you for the comment Peter, the reason for the spot welds is because the Mazda steel is so thin. If you did a continuous weld, the weld will become too hot and blow out the steel, doing spot welds keeps it cool and “hopefully” stops blow through.

Thank you for the kind words I really do appreciate it, and I’m really pleased it helped you out 👍 due to the rules and regulations on KZbin I have to say that the video is for entertainment purposes only! However what I can say is that this way of doing it has never faulted me and I’ve done plenty in the past!!