Roughly how many of these batteries is needed for a 6000W Lanzer amp ? I have a 1000 cca battery in the front with a 200 amp 14V LEECE NEVILLE. On my 1985 suburban will a motorcycle thank you .

You need Empirical Labs Arousor to get the audio e on. G'day.

How much would you charge to fill up all of my hollow cavities? I have a Tacoma

Your explanation sounds logical but what's important is that there be a universal protocol that is understood and accepted - like driving full speed through a four way intersection.

I don't understand, why a portable generator is considered bonded? There is no connection to the ground, I mean.

Don't go cheap on finding an electrician - like a DIY neighbor. If the handyman get's hurt or killed - you're paying out of pocket. The electrician needs to be experienced, licensed, and bonded. They're insured.

Why 4 wires off of switch to two going to motor..thanks

Hi Richard, I have a new Pulsar GD10K generator and was wanting to separate the neutral from the ground except the wiring is way different on mine. When I took off the cover I have an aluminum cooling block and attached to the back is all the main coils and electronics and the wires that go to the control panel. I tried making sense of the schematic but it may as well be in ancient Egyptian. Any advice would be appreciated,or should I call their number and talk to a tech?

Thanks Richard, you're a huge help, I have questions and will confer with you at a later date. I appreciate your knowledge and willingness to share it with us!

Many people rely on those wago connectors which i feel is a dangerous practice…..yes they are easy to use but you are relying on spring tension (its noticeable how the one wire slipped back out of the wago) and the quality for that said metal inside the wago, actually connecting WIRE to WIRE with a wire nut or some type of mechanical crimp is more reliable and a better bond, why add another variable you dont need……..wagos are great for trouble shooting and removed thats about it in my opinion but your video was great!

I was thinking of doing this but had the idea of using a key switch instead of a toggle so it can't accedently be bumped to the wrong position. Thanks for these vids, far clearer than anything else I've seen on this subject!

OK After 45 years in the electrical craft I still can't understand why the 1/4 inch of difference between connecting the generators neutral to the Grounded/Neutral Conductor of the Service Entry Conductors and connecting that same neutral to the Grounded/Neutral Busbar; were I note that the US National Electric Code (NEC) specifically allows me to connect the Grounding Electrode Conductors; makes any electrical difference. My question is about the generators factory new condition and thus the generator's neutral is bonded to it's frame. If I put a saddle tap on the Grounded/Neutral Conductor of the Service Entry Conductors and connect the generator's Grounded/Neutral conductor on that saddle tap and tighten everything to specified torque the Code Making Panel for section 250 of the NEC thinks that is wonderful. If, instead, I connect the generators Grounded/Neutral Conductor to the Grounded/Neutral busbar a 1/4 inch away from the Grounded/Neutral Service Entry Conductor that is the END OF THE WORLD AS WE KNOW IT? Since You are a "EE", Electrical Engineer would you explain that 1/4 inch of lug metal making such a difference. Obviously I don't buy it. But maybe you know of some rational reason that I should. Tom Horne

I understand that not having two points of ground bonded to neutral is not proper, but in my opinion, the neutral is extremely important, years ago. I had a generator running when the neutral failed at the connection point, putting 240 through the house destroying a microwave And other things, since then I always keep the neutral bonded at the generator as well, so if the neutral is lost, the ground wire will take over the job. I realize this is not the proper way, but it gives me peace of mind.

The backfed breaker for the generator feed needs a hold down. Usually that comes with the Homeline Interlock Kit. I don't see it attached. That is a code violation.

If the ground and neutral are interrupted ( disconnected ) from the neutral of the service panel ( while the "main" is also off) would this still be necessary? Would the house not then be like providing power to any other device plugged in that required the Generator to be bonded?

Just hit 110k so it's about time for a tune up. This was informative thx alot

Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. I have a question about the objectionable current flow in the diagram at 4:25. I understand that current takes all parallel paths back to the source but would there be current flowing on a the wire going out to the generator when it starts and ends at the same point? Seems if it starts and the neutral bus bar, goes to the generator then to the ground bus bar and then back to the neutral that there would be no potential difference to allow current to flow? Or is there just a minute voltage drop with virtually no resistance on that loop out to the generator that there ends up being a few milliamps of current?

I'm late to the party. Great explanation that I doubt most folks are aware of when using a portable generator to provide backup power to your house. We have a Predator 8750 (7kW running) genie we use for home backup. The Predator has the Neutral/EGC bond in the receptacle panel not in the power head, I removed the bond. It our case it is unlikely we will ever use the genie standalone but did not want to prevent using it that way. So rather than using a switch I installed a Neutral/Ground jumper in a NEMA L14-30P twist-lock plug and hung it on the generator in case it every needed to be used standalone. This also eliminated the possibility of making a mistake as the L14-30 receptacle is how we connect it to the house. I added a label on the genie indicating it has an isolated neutral as a reminder in case anyone other then myself uses it standalone. Just a nit. It was not necessary to run additional wires to the power head as the neutral and ground conductors are available in the power panel. I assume you did it that way so you could keep the explanation simple.

Electrical engineer and former journeyman electrician here. Why not just follow the NEC requirements? They exist for a reason. Lifting the EGC in the junction box is a mistake as it leaving the generator neutral bond intact while connected to your home breaker panel. Both are code violations, esp the second neutral bond. The ground rod to the generator, which presumably you added due to lifting the EGC as noted, is not needed and results in an additional hazard in that there is another path for neutral and fault currents to follow, ie: between the breaker panel ground rod and generator ground rod which exposes anyone in the vicinity to its potential. Likely the gnd rod is also a local code violation. The correct, and far simpler solution is to carry all 4 wires from the generator to their respective terminations in the breaker panel, eliminate the generator ground rod, and remove the neutral to gnd jumper in the generator. That is the safest approach, complies with the NEC, and has a chance of passing local inspection. Sheesh, there is so much bad intel on this subject.

How qualified are you, at the beginning of this video you talk about house power in terms of two phases there is no phases in a 120 240 system.

Thank you very much for your series on wiring the transfer switch and the generator modification. This may be a stupid question but wouldn't it be sufficient to keep the generator unmodified (bonded) if and only if, the ground wire from the generator is lifted as shown in your earlier video (not connected to anything in the home). Wouldn't that be sufficient allow only one path back to the generator via the home bonding in the panel? Also if there was a fault at the generator or exterior connection receptacle, then the electricity could flow thru the bonding in the generator to ground via the neutral to the home ground? Thank you for helping us understand this topic

I just saw a video titled "Unbonded my generator and started a fire!" on a KZbin channel called BluesriderDF. The video presents a scenario where unbonding a generator prevented the ground wire between the generator and the main panel from acting as a redundant neutral and nearly resulted in a fire at a surge protector. The surge protector probably deserves a large part of the blame, as it should not have overheated and melted when clamping overvoltage as it is intended to do. Also, all three connections at the plug on his generator cable were loose, so it was probably just a matter of time until something bad happened whether his generator was bonded or not. However, unbonding the generator in that scenario did imminently lead to a dangerous situation. Fire and electrical shock are both potentially fatal; so regardless of what code says, it isn't obvious to me whether a bonded or unbonded generator is more dangerous. Perhaps leaving the generator bonded and installing a GFCI breaker on the generator would be safer.

How many square ft of guardian and CLD squares did you use on each door?

Can you *not* connect the neutral white wire from your inlet box to your electrical panel? would this cut the path to your generator?

I don’t find this bag Pls send me a link

Can the L14-30 receptacle on the portable generator by its self have a floating neutral, while maintaining a bonded neutral for the 20A 120V receptacles, so that they can be used while powering the house with the L14-30 receptacle? Or as shown in your previous video, you detailed how to isolate the ground at the inlet plug box to prevent that dual path to ground. In this scenario would the 20A 120V receptacles be usable?

My generator has 2 white wires coming from the stator like yours but also have two whites going to the generator panel. They are running parallel and only one was jumped to ground. What’s going on here? Why was only one jumped, why are the two neutrals separated? Since I’m wanting it floated, after removing the jumper, should I connect all 4 together or leave the two sets separate like they are now?

What if you had a subpanel in your house where the grounds and neutral were separate. Can you put the generator to the subpanel to feed those breakers with the generator bonded neutrals and grounds together? Or do you still have to separate the generator neutrals and grounds?

I currently have an alpine c701 processor but I’m Having ground noise with it is this one similar to that one?

@richardvedvik979, thank you for taking the time to create and post this video. Very clean implementation that allows for the greatest flexibility of use with your generator and a minute amount of future work to use it as a true portable or a whole house power source. With larger portable generators, and as "easy" as this modification was for your particular unit, I wonder why this "feature" is not a standard. The generator manufacturers know that many (most?) of their larger generators are going to be used as back up power for a house, to me it makes good sense for them to incorporate this into their build and then the consumer "knows" it has been implemented correctly.

I appreciate your video collection.. well done sir. From my studies and electronics background.. I recognise the bonded ground parallel problem with connecting to house panel with interlock. Do you know if the meter extension lifts the nuetral from utility? It doesnt look like it.. because the nuetral lugs are bus barred, not the hot legs.. So Im trying to understand which is best.. I understand the switch you installed on your generator And I understand the need to create a single pathway for nuetral ground.. which I have bonded nuetral generator. I was considering using a 3 phase disconnect to completely severe the UTILITY including their nuetral.. but that would be a major step involved asside from the interlock device.. it could be done, but would need mounted next to the service panel with clear instructions for disconnect first BEFORE INTERLOCK activation.. This 3 pole disconnect would illiminate the parallel pathing problem. And I would not need to create a floating nuetral switch like you did for yours.. Does the 3 pole disconnect feature at the service panel work correctly in your mind? I live in Florida under FPL My service panel is an older GE with shared nuetral ground bussbar.. I recognised the nuetral bonding and the parallel as an issue which is how I made my way to your video collections.. The meter extension seems fault proof, but the 3pole discconect should also do what I want. Your thoughts please.. safety and simplicity is also my goal.. to correctly illiminate the parallel nuetral/ ground and bonding issue

I wonder if you can just get a neutral grounding plug which when plugged into 120 v receptor on the generator, you canvert it into a neutral bonded generator. This has been done for a lot of RVers when they have a floating neutral generator like Honda.

When connected to the house with a generator that has been modified to the floating neutral I've seen the generator needs to be connected to a ground via the grounding lug on the generator. Can you explain that case? Does the generator need to be ground ed to a grounding rod via the grounding post on the generator? I've also read it need to be attached to a grounding rod that is 8 feet in the ground. Why?

Great content thank you for your time making these videos. In your first video you said that generators come bonded. But i have seen many generators especially ones to small to run your house that come floating neutral. Some of these generators have the proper outlet for transfer switch and some don’t. My question is what is the intent of the manufacturer selling these floating neutral generators?

The diagrams are awesome... helped me a bunch. My generator is floating neutral. Where I'll place the generator is very near the electric meter, which has a ground rod to it. So I plan to run my generator ground to that ground rod. Make sense?

Excellent video

Thank you for posting this. Question - the material you use for sound absorbtion - in case I am "allergic" to dust, do you know of other alternatives that would work as well? I am considering "3M Thinsulate SM600L" - it has no adhesives, so it could be folded and cut into pieces. Any other absorbers that you like?

Can you clarify the toggle switch configuration type please? DPST, SPDT, etc... on/off

Thanks for sharing this video, Richard. I recently purchased a bonded 7500 firman generator at Costco and have already installed a 30A generator inlet box, 30A 2P breaker, and interlock on my main panel to backfeed my house during power outtages. To clarify a previous video of yours on this topic, for me to functionally achieve a "floating neutral" configuration without modifying my generator (that's bonded), could i just lift the ground conductor coming from the panel inside the inlet receptable box on the wall and placed a warning label on the inlet box cover stating: "For connection of a non-seperately derived floating neutral system only". Your professional thoughts are appreciated and thanks again for this informative video.

Does it start up and run in float position? I found another video on KZbin showing how to float generacs and a few people had problems with the engine stayng running for more than 5 seconds. But when they put it back to factory it would run normally. Why would it do that for some people? Could they have just not done it properly? I still haven't got mine yet but it's coming. I got the 7500 watt fuel injected dual fuel. I hope I didn't make a mistake ordering that one.

Im seeing some similarities to my situation, tho markedly different. Basically, I'm designing a power distribution panel for my pop up camper rebuild. The inverter I have has complete shore power pass through with respect to Neutral and Ground, and a Floating Neutral when inverting, and shore disconnected. What I'm theorizing is in order for me to bond the Neutral while inverting, I'd need to utilize a relay that lifts the N-G bond at the inverter outlet when it senses shore power is present. The interpretation I've gotten from your video is that at the Shore Power inlet, if I leave the ground disconnected and run the Hot and Neutral through a 2-pole breaker and into the Inverter IN, then it would be fair to say I could permanently bond the Inverter OUT Neutral and Ground and continue on through a 1-pole or 2-pole breaker that feeds the rest of the AC panel. Is that acceptable, or would i be better off pursuing the relay idea? (Note: Haven't gotten to the wiring side of the project yet. Also, already have the inverter (Renogy 2000 Inverter/Charger). At the time of purchasing it, the instruction manual said there was a relay that automatically bonds the Neutral. Upon testing, that was not the case and Renogy customer support said that "feature was erroneously included in the manual" and the manual has been revised to remove that section entirely. This leads me to assume that bonding it externally to the inverter is safe to do, when shore is disconnected.)

Nice job and tutorial. One suggestion would be to label the toggle House and Portable for the Novice who might use it. :)

Thank you so much for sharing your valued knowledge!

So after watching many videos on this subject. This is my conclusion. When operating the generator separately not powering your house. It's neutral should be bonded. When powering your house it should be unbonded. Floating neutral.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have 2 questions to start 😂: 1.your knowledge /opinion on Inverter generators vs regular portable generator (my reason for asking is to understand what is likely to get damaged by an irregular sin Wave ((I believe 3% or 5%))) also on this note is there solution around this if it is an issue such as a surge protector. 2. A soft start for the ac. I’m looking for a portable option utilizing natural gas while running my 4 ton ac unit. I’m trying not to spend $10k, looking to run 50 amp plug , soft start, and hoping to get a 10-15kw which I know will run less converting it to ng. Also last question on these larger generators that have multiple 50amp receptacles/breakers do you have to utilize both or can you get all the power using one?

When I first watched this video, I thought I heard him say what wire he used but now I cannot find it. Does anyone know what gauge wire he is using for this modification?

5:08 Woooww... that inside make me sick. 😂

I appreciated seeing this and a bit shocked by some of the negative comments. I’ve got a portable little Champion 2500 watt floating neutral right now for feeding a heavy duty extension cord and just using a bonding plug and ground rod with a GFCI adapter to the cord, but acquiring a larger unit for both stand alone portable use and whole house backup power. What you’ve shown was my thoughts on how to possibly handle that so seeing someone else do it was helpful. Thanks for your time sharing this with us.

Thanks. This was very enlightening

Awesome information. Thank you for taking the time to put this video out!