Have the ring off with the punch but the housing wont shift

The second pcb is impossible to remove

What size are the screws for the face plate?

do you personally charge to fix?

Barry, on my 1993 525i e34 the AC, Recirculating and rear defogger buttons do not light up. AC doesn’t work. Could your capacitor fix work. Thanks from BC Canada.

Is it non-polorazed capacitor or not ?

It worked!!!! Thank you!!!! 328i 1997

Thank you so much for these instructions! I followed step by step and got the climate control back up! Can’t say thanks enough!

Thank you so much for this video. I have just fixed my Bmw 328 E36 -96 with help from this video. 🇸🇪

Thanks legend

I have a problem with my climate control (not digital)318i 1992 why the fan always on about 5 minute even i`m not turn on the ac,may be u have the solution sir thanks.

How long of a job is it to rebuild a rack? I'm not interested in depowering my rack. I just want to do a stock rebuild. Thanks for sharing your video and experience. 🙂

5:37 that’s what she said.... thanks for the great video mate! Helped a ton.

I will consider depowering my power rack. My thoughts based on your video: 1. I would measure the banjo bolt width and machine an aluminum tube with the same width to keep the banjo bolts but torqued against essentially an aluminum crush washer (short tube with round knife-edge on each end to deform and seal). 2. I would take out the hydraulic bits e.g. the washers used to create pressure on the shaft, but I would think its a good idea to fill up the rack with some heavy weight gear oil like a 75W-90 to keep the bushings and bearings riding smooth. This would mean the shaft seals should be in good condition though or else it may spring a leak, but the gear oil is significantly more viscous than PS fluid. I would grease the rack teeth as well but thats about as much as you can lubricate it, if i recall its just hidden by the shaft boot on the driver side right?. Thats about it, any and all openings sealed with crush washers and bolts, and rack filled with gear oil.

A spanner wrench would be more appropriate for disassembly than a punch and hammer.

This was great, took me about 5 min to do everything except the desoldering and soldering. The hardest part was to take out the old solder that took me quite sometime then it was just a walk in the park.

My control climate unit , after I turn it off, a noise is hearing from inside for 20-30 seconds... HEEELP ME ! Also AC is working ...... thanks a lot to you.. hope help me ..

My control climate unit , after I turn it off, a noise is hearing from inside for 20-30 seconds... HEEELP ME ! Also AC is working ......

Just thought I would share my experience running a power rack without power. I did this on another car years ago and discovered that over time the power rack developed more and more play...excessive play. It is my thought that power racks are not meant to run unassisted and the metals and designs involved are not up to the task of handling the loads when unpowered. Unpowered racks are IMHO signficantly stiffer than even a manual rack. There is a video on KZbin of a broken depowered rack. Personally I would like to hear from a power steering rack industry expert on the risks of running a power rack depowered.

Here's a link for the part www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5RBQAY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AZHZ102UTKBMA&psc=1

How can one pin point if it's the capacitor or the fsu? Mine turns on and off randomly and only blows hot air. It'll blow hot air through the windshield and my feet randomly too and the climate control isn't even on

Because you are changing the capacitor, which is the defect my is disappearing the letter almost never turns on, and letters come out in half.

Thank you for this video. Very helpful in fixing my Climate Control unit. I couldn't find a .47uF50v cap. I ended up using a 1.0uF 35v cap from radio shack. I read that >.47uF 35v will suffice. It actually works now and saved over $100. Again thank you

DUDE FUCKIN HUGE THANK U!

One way to stop a rack leak permanently! Thanks for sharing!

many Thanks from Spain Tenia la misma averia en mi Bmw 318tds y simplemente con cambiar el condensador como tu explicas ,problema resuelto!!!! yujuuuuuuu solo por 0.37€ . ademas tengo otras dos unidades de control del climatizador sacadas de un desguace y q me fallaban igual,ahora tambien las arreglare con tu sistema. Gran ahorro Thanks

I have an e36..mine like to turn it self on..it only blows air from the front vents and it's Dosent get hot or cold...would this fix the problem...???

will this work for my E46??

Good video and thanks! Just did this on a e36 that i just bought climate ctrl wasn't working, nothing would light up and watched your vid went to a local radio shack and bought a 47uf 50v capacitor for $1.49 got home installed it put it back together and it worked flawlessly you saved me $100-200.

i need help with my pacifica's heat control unit. the unit is digital, it goes dark by itself some times and if i tap it or hit it, it comes back on. i have to control over the fan speed, the fan speed constantly blows on high, i have replaced the resistor and blower motor and still same problem. what is going on with my unit? thanks

Hello Mister What voltage have your 47uF ? Did it have 25V, 35V or 50 V ? Thanks for responding me!

Thanks. Pursuant to your video instructions, I replaced the Climate Control capacitor with a new 47uF 50v on my E36 328i Convertible. Digital display problem solved. Al

Rvisiting this, the trace that the one leg of the capacitor solders to is fairly obvious, it's wide and goes right to the hole. I can't see what the other leg solders to. Is it the blob of solderon the other side next to the hole, or to something on top? Is there a circuit diagram to confirm? Lotta fun today; it's 72 degrees and with the unit out of the car, the heat blows full bore. I'd like to fix it before my two hour trip tomorrow

Great video. I realized when I went to do this that I already did it years ago. Now, it's kind of a mess and I can't identify which trace the outside pin connects to. You can see the big inside one next to the blue jack on the top. Do you know which one the other goes to? My screen is now completely black when connected. Strangely, when I did it years ago, the Radio Shack capacitor didn't work and when I put the original one back in, it did. Until now. PS my blower was intermittent, but all the other lights worked. Until now.

i believe that top port is the return, not the inlet side.

Barry, do you still fix these things ?

I have a 1997 bmw 318i same problem the screen goes on and off but the blower motor still work in the back ground what capacitor do i use???

I AM GOING TO TRY THIS MY UNIT DOES THE SAME THING CUTS OFF AND ON

Hi Barry, What's the difference between "Polarized" & Non-Polarized"? I went to Fry's & ended up buying the wrong capacitor. I bought a 47MFO 50V (Non-Polarized) & not the .47UF. Would Polarized & Non-Polarized make a difference? Not sure what the difference between a 47MFO versus a .47UF is as I'm no electrician.... Also, When removing the ACU from the dashboard, there are 2 wires behind the ACU that need to be disconnected in order to entirely remove the ACU. One is the blue piece that has colored coded wires attached to it. The second wire is black. What is the second wire's function? I ask because the plastic mechanism at the end of the wire that fits into the ACU broke off. Any way to reattach, reconnect and or solder the black plastic mechanism back to the black wire? Any input you have would be really helpful, thanks!

Hi, followed your instructions to the letter and now have a perfectly functioning climate control again, you saved me $150 for a second hand unit, keep up the good work, many thanks from the land down under.

Worked for my '97 328i E36, awesome thanks heaps!

worked for me to... i ditn't replace it though, mine just needed to solder it again.. helpfull video. :)

thx it work´s i used a 4,7uF 50V :D

FYI - My email is [email protected] and I charge $10 plus shipping both ways... in other words, just send me your unit with a return package and $10 I'll send it back with the correction.

unfortunately for me, it looked like this trick had been tried as it had a similar capacitor as the one I was going to use to replace it. Sure enough, didn't work. Screen must be dead. I used a 1.0uF capacitor.

Hey everyone! You can purchase the correct resistors on Amazon. The retailer is DataAlchemy. See the poster's comment below to select the correct capacitor.

Thanks for the how-to! I was looking for a manual steering rack and it is almost impossible... Found one in Germany... To expensive... I have exactly the same reason as you do: another part not leaking. These power rack are known fail often. I'm currently doing the longest job on a 951... Changing the oil pan gasket!

Great demo! I appreciate you describing your symptoms as mine is doing the same nonsense. I will check fuses first, then do you capacitor fix. Thanks!

I went to Radio Shack and all they had was 47uF, 4.7uF, .047uF, and .0047uF caps and not .47uF. So I compromised and got the 4.7uF one. Seemed to fix the intermittent on/off problem (so far). I did notice someone that had the car before cut one wire off the fan inside it. I resoldered it and I can hear it stays on. Is that normal?

16V 220uF 85° 16V 470uF 85° 16V 2200uF 85° 25V 100uF 85° 25V 220uF 105° 25V 470uF 85° 25V 1000uF 85° 35V 220uF 105° 35V 680uF 85° 35V 1000uF 105° 50V 0,47uF 85° 50V 2,2uF 105° 50V 22uF 105° 50V 47uF 105° 50V 100uF 105° 50V 330uF 105° 63V 1uF 105° 63V 10uF 85° 100V 4,7uF 85° Which one do I need from this list please.