Thanks for watching!

Awesome feedback David! A quality ZCI sure does make a slider much more enjoyable! And you’ll love the magnet to keep that bolt from dropping! I’ve not had that issue since! I guess my main reason for liking Phillips is that one size (#2) covers a vast amount of screw sizes. But I know I’m a loner with this opinion 😆Cheers

Thank you for the good words…I appreciate it!

I suppose that experienced users can anticipate and avoid small offcuts when using a slider. But man, what a difference with a proper ZCI, right!? I appreciate your good words. 👊🏼

I love and appreciate comments like this. Thank you

Not to shoot myself in the foot here, but my inserts are very well made and you could get by with just one to start. I’m still using one from a few years ago! Anyway, congrats on your new saw…cheers

Mine broke soon after I began using my saw as well. It’s surprising to me that most sliders have this problem! Anyway, thanks a ton Darren, your idea to “mass” order for several people down there was smart. I appreciate you.

Great to hear! Thanks for watching

Thanks a ton for the feedback! I think getting the larger XL 700 is a good move. I made an adapter for mine but Seneca sells them. With that you can use all size cutters. I do have access to a machine shop and used a grade 8 bolt when I made mine…even though I have the DF 500, I still use it. Cheers

It’ll work well. Hold it tight and cut somewhat slowly, but consistent speed. Beautiful, clean cuts. Thanks for the good words.

D'accord, alors ne le fais pas !J'aime le mien. Je reçois de nombreux compliments. Merci

Thanks! It’s an old Grizzly 1023ZX. It’s about 24 years old…I’ve replaced bearings and replaced the 5HP motor with a Baldor. Still a really good saw. Cheers

@@ramonartfulthank you so much🙏

Thank you 🙏🏼

It’s been a good saw…quickly paid for itself!

I sincerely appreciate that! Cheers

It’s quite risky to add veneer between the cabinet side and cabinet skin. Too many layers invites delaminating. Spray 90 is ok but it does not have enough “glue solids” for long term adhesion. The way it’s applied makes a huge difference as well. It needs plenty of glue on both surfaces and some time for it to dry slightly. It’s best when used for small pieces, like edging. If you use it, make certain you have a good roller to apply as much pressure as possible for a good bond. Face frames typically stick out past cabinet sides. If it’s more than you like, one could use a router and flush cut bit. The raw face frame would need finished and maybe stained first to match color. I didn’t know what you meant about finishing the veneer, since you had said it would be under the cabinet skin. You probably meant finish the cabinet skin, yeah? Water based finish is easiest but you must be careful, the added moisture can cause it to expand, creating bubbles or loose areas. Maybe you can leave me a way to contact you and we can figure this out. This issue isn’t too tricky, but one does need some tools & skills to pull it off successfully.

@@ramonartful Thank so much for the reply. The reason I asked about finishing the veneer is because I thought that if left raw, something might happen like absorbing moisture from the environment? If put in between the cabinet and the skin, it would not be seen, so no need to finish it from an aesthetic point. I am more worried about what might happen to the wood if it is not finished. As you pointed out, it could present a problem having multiple layers if the wood absorbs water and then gets wavy. I do not know if that might happen and thought you might know since you work with veneer a lot. I really do need to use the 3M 90 adhesive for the 96" skin because I need to be able to reposition it for this large cabinet. However, perhaps I could use a different type of adhesive for the veneer? I could work with smaller pieces of veneer under the skin and those are easier to place correctly than a 24" x 96" skin. Do you think this might work? If so, what adhesive do you think would work best to adhere the veneer to the cabinet? The reason I want to make it more flush is because the side of the cabinet faces the family room and it is ugly with just a 96" tall flat surface. I will be adding fake doors to the side of the cabinet over the flush finish. When I add the doors I think it might look bad to have that face frame sticking out and not have the doors lay flat across the entire surface. I have both a small roller and a larger roller to apply the veneer. I got some 5lb weights (the circles from dumbells) and I was planning to lay 2x4s along the length of the cabinet with cross boards over the top and put the weight on the cross boards. Of note is that when I did this before (see below), it was very difficult to get the veneer positioned correctly and I did end up peeling it back an repositioning it in different parts of the 96" cabinet. It is such a large, long cabinet; it was difficult to get the veneer in the right place over the length of the entire cabinet. The cabinets are white Kraftmaid cabinets. From what I have read, others say they can not get an exact paint factory finish match when they do repairs, regardless of what paint and finish is used. So, I am leaning away from trimming the face frame. Mfg recommends white paint topped with spray semi-gloss poly. I might experiment with that on a scrap board and see how good the results are. BTW- I did this before about 8 years ago because our oak cabinets were two shades darker than when we got them and the cabinet sides were paper. I bought oak veneer with 3M backing from Rockler Woodworking, finished them to match, cut and installed them. It looked really nice. Everything held up well except the cabinets to the right and left of the stove appear to have soaked up some moisture (steam, heat, oil in the air- not sure?) from cooking and are wavy and do not appear to be adhering well. The rest of the kitchen looks good though.

@@JLCorpus1 There wouldn't be an issue with the veneer between the cabinet and skin absorbing moisture. ( I think I understood you correctly). The main issue is adhesion. 3M 90 is okay, but I've always used industrial contact cement...should be available from a cabinet or countertop shop. The aerosol contact cement like 3M simply does not have enough glue solids to be long term effective. Similar to lacquer in a spray can...it's too thin and takes many coats to build. If you apply enough...hard to tell someone how much in text. Plus the dry time is important for it to tack up properly. Laying large pieces of veneer can be made easier by using clean sticks across the surface...once the glue is ready, lay the veneer onto the sticks. Position the veneer, then begin removing the middle sticks one at at time whilst pressing the veneer working outwards to avoid bubbles. If I understood you correctly, the faux doors you apply once the skin is on will certainly help hold everything in place. I don't see new replies unless I check each video, so it may take me a few days to get back to you. Hope this helps

Great to hear! Thanks for watching

Yes, good point that I should have touched on. That adjustment helps overall, the ones I’m tweaking help with twist. Thanks for your input.

Awesome to hear. And thanks for checking it out

Hey George, it was good talking with you yesterday! Cheers

Great to hear! Thank you

Staples and glue together is hard to beat. Since collated staples themselves have glue…they do not pull loose. Then glue around the perimeter of a drawer bottom…that is strong! We’ve busted this type of drawer apart (made wrong size usually🤪) and they must be broken, smashing a corner on concrete repeatedly, but does not happen easily. They’re amazingly strong. We literally made tens of thousands of drawer boxes like this. My shop drawers with heavy tools are made like this…decades old and still going strong. Thanks for checking out the vids!

@@ramonartful Thanks for the reply. And yeah, I've been there t, built a drawer the wrong size. 😂

Thank you …I appreciate your feedback !

Sounds good! Just think how they’ll really appreciate something like that when they’re older. Cheers

I was blown away with how well this worked! I know that in the new world of CNC, this isn’t that great. But in my world without a CNC , the Tapmatic is incredible! 😬

You’re right. Most people don’t realize how versatile a belt sander is and the fine, finesse work that can be achieved with one. Thanks for watching

Nice! I love em

That’s right! After tens of thousands of drawer boxes built this way…I can attest that they’re extremely strong! Thanks a ton 👊🏼

Great questions. The finish has held up well…no chipping. However, the knobs have a few white spots (dents) from being smacked with a board or whatever. But it’s just a workbench and I expected that. It probably could be touched up as you mentioned. Thanks a ton for watching!

I keep both machines in the Docks and use em like that for most tasks. And great to hear about the plans. Thanks a ton!

Thanks ! I’m so glad I finally made it! 😆

Thanks a ton! Glad to hear you use a dock…they are quite useful. These products are a simply a result of creating solutions in my own work shop. 😬 cheers

Thank you! I believe what honed me to practice like this was being a production manager for nearly 20 years (large commercial cabinet shop). To create efficiency, everyone and everything counted. Details. I implemented systems, protocols, jigs, fixtures, etc. It all adds up! Thanks for the good words. 👊🏼

Yes, great point. I do that as well. Thanks a ton for the feedback!

Ha ha…it’s good and what’s even better is the content. 🙏🏼

Thanks a ton, David! A router! That made me lol! We could put a Tapmatic on the Pantorouter! 😆

The king size bed? I made it. I’m not sure about your question…I’ll check back here if you’re serious. Thank you

What a fantastic comment to wake up to. Thanks for the feedback!

I sure appreciate this feedback! Thank you!

Hey! I’m glad you mentioned this. I couldn’t remember who suggested it…it was you! Yeah, the older knobs were smaller, the new ones are bigger/better. I’m working on a brand new version of this. It’s bigger, and has a cool added feature. If I can get it cut CNC at the right price, it’ll come to market. Working on all that right now. Anyway, thanks a ton for a great suggestion!

@@ramonartful Very cool... ill keep my eyes out! Thanks for what you do... you make truly useful things (as well as all the educational content!)

Hey, that’s cool to hear. I keep both my machines in the Docks. Ready to go

Now that’s awesome to hear! Thank you tons.

Yeah, I know. They have. I idea how much time and effort I’ve poured into these over the last 8 years! Thanks man

Yeah I noticed them on Etsy too. Was going to do the same. I feel you were so early to market Ramon that we all know whose idea it was.

Thanks !

Thank you! It’s been a while but I believe that I threaded the stand-offs internally. Then used short studs to attach them to the copper pulls. The pulls were only 1/4” thick, so the threads were kinda shallow. I used JB Weld to insure a good connection. Then regular machine screws to attach to the doors. Cheers

Cool! Thanks for being here

Yeah…you’re right. But I couldn’t have made the table and all the accuracy that was essential…without it.

Great to hear! Do you mean the Dock Plate XL? It should have four Allen head screws on the plate. Those engage with holes in either machine. Or I’m misunderstanding you.

@@ramonartful yeah, but they grab onto the Domino fence and it can slide left/right making the fine scale on the Seneca plate inaccurate.

@@youmbgtube Do you mean the four screws on the Dock plate allow too much slack? I'm still not clear on your question.

Great to hear…thanks!

Good info, thanks